UPS Suggestion?

I am in the market for a UPS since every now and then I get a power loss due to excessive power consumption in my apartment. Usually this happens if say I have 2 AC on, 2 computers, TV, Lights, Fridge in conjunction to Microwaving something, <- This is the reason why I get power loss, but usually I just go change the fuze in the basement and it comes back up.

Now, would a UPS be necessary if this happens say 2-3 times a year? I am currently still using a Belkin Surge Protector that I've had for probably a good 7-8 years, not sure if I should replace it =X.

My main concern really is protecting my computer. Here is the specs:

Intel i5 2500k (4.0 GHz)
ASUS P8P67 Deluxe
Corsair 850 HX PSU
G. Skill 8GB Sniper RAM
C300 SSD 64GB
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB

If say I just stick with a surge protector, what would be the worst case scenario?

Also what would be an ample UPS for my system and 2x 24" ASUS Monitors? Like what Watt,VA I should be looking at so I can just safely shutdown my system when I lose power? My system usually shuts down within 30 seconds. Also I would like this UPS to last for a while without having to worry about replacing the battery every 1-2 years. Thank you!
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  1. Anyone?
  2. Your listed appliance is not something to overload an apartment. You may need to have a professional electrician to make sure that your circuit breakers, and house electrical system is compliant to exisiting code.

    Some places do have power interuptions due to various reasons such as weather or city wide overload. Utility sometimes shutdown certain power grid for repairs. Utility companies normally are poor in communicating prior shutting down.

    Get a UPS to protect your computer. Get the UPS that include voltage regulator and surge protector as it's feature. Not all UPS have built in voltage reg & surge protector.

    Also when you purchase a UPS ask the salesman or representative for Capacity in RMS not VA.... A 500VA UPS is not a 500 Watt RMS UPS.

    Since your PSU is 850 Watts get a UPS that is 900 Watts to 1000 Watts RMS (not VA).
  3. A UPS is not a substitute for wiring issues in your apartment. As noted by leon2006 you should have that looked into and buy a USP for what it's intended for:

    1. To protect your PC from power spikes and brown outs

    2. To give you time to power down your PC when the grid power fails

    3. To prevent data loss from sudden power outages

    Based on many years of use and different models, I can recommend APC UPSs as good quality and reliable.
  4. For 3x per year power outage surge protector normally works but there is no assurance of total protection.

    The most expensive impact is the lost of data on the drive. It depends on the application of your PC
  5. I have a similar case, please more replies!
  6. Thank for the input! I do live in an old apartment, and been living with this issue for probably most of my life. In all honestly I just need something that gives me time to shut down the PC, but usually with a fuse swap I get power back in less than 5 minutes. As for data loss, its not a big concern for me, I back up my data to an external hard drive frequently, at least the important stuff. I mainly play games and watch videos/surf the web on my computer anyways. And I agree that APC seems to be the choice of company I would choose for a UPS but, I read that since my PSU has active PFC, what would be a disadvantage of getting a non sine wave UPS? This is the current one I am considering:

    Any more input would be greatly appreciated, and in all honestly, I probably do not have the time to schedule for a technician to check out the wiring since I work 6 days a week T_T.
  7. If anyone can answer my last post it would be GREATLY appreciated, I am planning to ordering this soon and need a second opinion, even though I know its not a sine wave UPS. Another thing leon is, I'm pretty sure my PSU was overkill for my single graphics card setup, I just got it in the event I decide to SLI in the future. I am not really sure how much Watts my computer and 2 monitors are pulling to be honest, but I was hoping the UPS i posted above will give me a good minute to shut down my machine. Thanks in advance!
  8. I would look for another apartment. If the Landlord had digital metering that is choked off remotely by the power company, there is little you can do.

    With that said, I live in a state where the grid routinely get destroyed several times a year. I rely on a Generac Generator to run my home. I patch it into the house and the house is also grounded and 200 amp mains board is also surge protected.

    I have used Cyberpower UPS for years, once in a while they fry or blow up while protecting the system. I just tossed one out last month and replaced it with a sine wave for this machine and have another on the way for the new build that is nearing completion.

    I also replaced the old style incandescent lamp fixtures (Which will be banned Jan 1) with LED's and two prong type sockets. I can run all 11 rooms with lights for a few amps total and probably.. a few hundred watts total.

    I got rid of the fridge and replaced with a 5 amp freezer of 14 cu feet, and a big samsung fridge with dual motors, one for freezing other for cooling. That one only pulls 6 amps. The heating and cooling was also replaced with a Trane outside which pulls 50 amps and a Trane unit inside that probably pulls 9 amps max. Washer and dryer was replaced with energy star non steam samsung front loaders. Those things don't make my lights flicker anymore.

    Basically I reduced my power bill from 1500 kilowatts per month on 40 year old crap and dropped it to 300 kilowatts per month on new energy star stuff.

    My last apartment had a 10 gallon water heater. About the size of a computer case. Not sufficient at all. I don't do apartments anymore.

    I do replace UPS's with Cyber power units once in a while or add to my collection in the home. They do what they are supposed to do. Protect the system.

    I also divide summer (Electric cooling) and winter (Nat gas heating and firewood backup as well as space heaters fed by generator.) Nat gas instead of induction stove top is much easier and cheaper too. A dutch oven over a firepit does well too.
  9. Finding another apartment at the moment is not an option for me lol, I pretty much have to deal with it for a while, but with that said, CyberPower was another company I was looking at, but I read that a lot of their sine wave models causes headaches and what not, so I'm a bit worried on the health side of things.
  10. Hm can anyone help me decide, I'm stuck between these 2 UPS after much consideration:


    I got a HX 850 PSU, so I'm not sure how either of them works with it. Any final advice would be greatly appreciated!
  11. I would go with neither. Lean on the APC but you concurrent power draw will almost exceed the total output of that UPS, try looking at an output rate of 1000Watts, leon has explained this to you at the beginning of the forum.
  12. I used earlier ancestors of this model for years

    I still have one surviving 900 watter sitting on wife's computer which has about 650 watts psu. It's a generic net machine and does not demand much from the unit.

    I lost my other unit due to liquids invading the computer room, it blew up the UPS saving the rest of the computer... (As it's supposed to do..) I got a 810 watter on it now but looking back at this unit linked here, I may be going for another one of these again for the new build now that the prices have dropped.

    This computer on the 810 has a 750 watt psu and only pulls maybe 230 max. It used to be a gaming machine with crossfire, but has been retired. Now the big computer I am building already pulled 560 off this 810 PSU while undergoing Vantage scoring and I will feel better to buy a bigger PSU just to protect that computer.

    In other words, I wondered if I had to abort the Vantage benchmark before exhausting the battery completely. Heh.

    Anything bigger will require me to have a electrician put in a outlet to my house mains that have a "T" shaped plug which means 20 amps or greater. Most all homes and such with II plugs only push 15 amps max, if that. My house has 10 gauge wiring that carries the 120 volts very well and can pull more than 15 amp if needed. I have had to dedicate various wires strictly to one plug per appliance such as a Refrigerator to balance the load.

    Also consider using the quick reaction outlets with short protection. As soon there is a 5 milliamp difference (A short) it will cut off very fast.

    The bigger they get, the more important that they are good for keeping a clean power to the computer and allow you to shut down gracefully when the power quits in middle of a game.
  13. +1^ very insightful X thanks for your post, i did learn a thing or to=)
  14. 1) Measure max dc load in Watts
    Run stress test to drive CPU util to 100% and GPU to 100%... Measure the Actual Power Consumption of your hardware (CPU, GPU, etc).

    2) Measure max ac load in Watts
    Use clamp ammeter to measure the actual load on the power cord of the PC...

    The difference of the 2 is the loses in heat of the PSU (ineficiencies).

    The UPS capacity should >= to the measurement (2). In Watts not VA

    For me i load the UPS to 80%...So for example if my measurement (2) = 800Watts... I purchase a 1000Watts capacity UPS.
  15. Youre welcome Pilk

    Leon brought up another point I forgot.

    Watts = Heat. How much?

    I have been able to maintain a 10x10 room at 72 degrees with the house heat off and the door shut in -20 outside. Of course after a hour of that I had to waste alot of gas to bring the home back from 55 to 72. On the other hand, in summer pulling down 96 to 72 takes several hours. So if you are pumping out the heat, you will raise the costs on cooling.
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