My first build: i7-2600k + some questions

[kaydotz]

Hello!
I'm planning on building my first PC in about a month, so I thought I'd post my pending (not 100% decided) build here since this seems to be one of, if not the most well-informed and educated communities I've come across.

This build will be mainly for gaming, streaming Netflix, and web browsing. I have a PS3 which I will also connect to the monitor for Blu-ray and FPS's. The games I will be playing on this PC will be primarily MMORPGs and RPGs, and I may phase in the FPS's when I'm more accustomed to the keyboard/mouse layout.

I also might end up using programs like CAD, Photoshop, or something similar. I'm not looking for blazing fast performance in these programs, just good enough for me to use without getting annoyed.

Approximate Purchase Date: 1 month (gotta get a couple more paychecks ).

Budget Range: ~$1700 w/o tax.

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, web browsing, streaming Netflix, maybe CAD or PS somewhere down the road.

Parts Not Required: Keyboard and mouse (I am looking to get new ones, but I want to focus on the rest of the build).

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Frys.com, newegg.com (will be buying from local Fry's b/c they pricematch Newegg, and buying whatever they don't carry from Newegg).

Country of Origin: USA

Parts Preferences: SB i7-2600k, 24" monitor.

Overclocking: I'd like the ability to.

SLI or Crossfire: SLI/Crossfire compatibility.

Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080

Additional Comments: I'd like to play games like Skyrim, SWTOR, GW2, and BF3 at very high or max settings. I'd also like this build to last around 4 years with some upgrades.

Parts list (I'm including links from newegg since they have more/better info):

CPU:
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K

MOBO:
ASRock Z68 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
The ASRock z68 Extreme4 was what I chose at first, but now I'm wondering if it would be better to get a p67 board with more features, or is z68 the way to go? Would it be better to save some money going with one of the two lower-priced options I picked here?
(I kinda like the look of the black Gigabyte, but looks aren't my main concern)
Or is there something else that you would recommend?

GPU:
MSI R6950 Twin Frozr II Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity
I think I'd rather go with one card now and Crossfire later than Crossfire right away, although I'd like to hear your thoughts on this.

RAM:
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL7D-8GBXH (7-7-7-21)
or
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM (8-8-8-24)
for the same price?

PSU:
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
I'm wondering if I should get a 1000w for future-proofing though? Any recommendations for a solid psu if I decide to go that route?

HDD:
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
I don't need a SSD. I've been using this old iBook G4 with a 40GB 4200rpm HDD for years now... I think I can wait for HDDs to become more obsolete/SSDs to become cheaper.

Optical Drive:
ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM

CPU Cooler:
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7
Is this overkill? I plan on doing some cpu overclocking, but I'm a little too inexperienced to be doing anything crazy to it.

Case:
COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Compucase Case with USB 3.0 and Black Interior
From what I've read, this is a good case. I'm not sure that I like the "rugged appearance" though; I'd like something a little sexier.

Monitor:
SAMSUNG BX2431 Glossy Black 24" 2ms LED BackLight LCD Monitor Slim Design 250cd/m2 DCR 5,000,000:1 (1,000:1)

OS:
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium
Should I get the OEM 64 version instead? Is the OEM license connected to the MOBO or the HDD?

Thanks for reading! This newbie greatly appreciates your feedback!

 

[mjmjpfaff]

first off buy from amazon so you dont have any taxes to deal with.

you wont use hyperthreading in gaming so dont waste your money on the 2600k just get the 2500k

ram 70$- http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-Modules-KHX1600C9D3K2-8GX/dp/B0037TO5C0/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1308083629&sr=1-5

only 750w for 6950 cf- http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CMPSU-750HX-Professional-Certified-compatible/dp/B0029F21LK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1308083711&sr=1-1

hdd 60$- http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Spinpoint-Cache-Desktop-HD103SJ/dp/B001U3S5S0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1308083753&sr=1-1 i think after taxes (.0875 CA taxes highest in country) it is still cheaper to buy at newegg after the promo code

cooler master hyper 212 plus 29.51$- http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B002G1YPH0/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&qid=1308083901&sr=1-1&condition=new

monitor- http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-VH242H-23-6-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B001LYPIIS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1308083950&sr=1-2

windows 7 oem- http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premum-System-Builder-Version/dp/B002NGJO4M

case- http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Crafted-Tower-Steel-Chassis/dp/B004MYC6O8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1308084518&sr=8-4

optical drive 24.48$- http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003MRHOQG/ref=sr_1_24_olp?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1308084586&sr=1-24&condition=new there is probably one cheaper at newegg even after taxes

for you motherboard the p67 extreme4 will be perfect for you- http://www.amazon.com/ASRock-P67-Extreme4-B3-Motherboard/dp/B004QTHYZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1308084716&sr=1-1

 

[jasonw223]

Since you might do CAD and whatnot, the 2600k might be useful. Mjmj is right about gaming though for the 2500k.

I'm not a huge fan of amazon, I'd still recommend your newegg and Fry's route as well. Either way I guess.

Now as for the rest of your components, here are my feelings:

a) I hate the ASRock Extreme 4. I have two Sandy Bridge builds that I use for the moment (check my configs to the left if you want). Definitely prefer the Gigabyte boards - I went for an all black one haha. You most likely won't need a Z68 board... P67 will do everything for you, and is a bit cheaper.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128478&Tpk=p67%20ud4

b) Go for the black memory to match your board! Both are very similar, and will give almost identical performance. You could probably run the black kit at 1600mhz 8-8-8 if you wanted as well, or vice versa.

c) You could downgrade to the Corsair HX750 power supply, or go for my PSU, the AX750. It's a bit more efficient and fully modular. Still the same 7 year warranty. My AX750 is more than enough to run 2 GTX 580s, which are much more power hungry than a 6950 - so you'll have plenty of room to upgrade. 1000w PSUs are really only needed when you want a pile of hard drives, or at least 3 video cards.

d) For cases, I use a 600t Special Edition and a PC-B10. I like both of them, although the 600t is better for airflow. Also really liked my NZXT Tempest Evo.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139005&Tpk=600t%20white
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112226&Tpk=pc-b10
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146062&Tpk=tempest%20evo

e) Stick with Windows 7 OEM. It's technically tied to your motherboard, but I've never had any trouble if I had to change the board or something. Sometimes you just have to call Microsoft and tell them it's only installed on one PC to activate if you're swapping too often.

f) Keep the Hyper 212+! It'll let you run that 2600k over 4ghz with ease, and keep your temps nice and low.

g) I'd highly suggest an SSD, even though you don't 'need' one haha. It will cut your boot times, and program loading times in half. Makes a huge difference! Up to you I guess though!

Anyhow, good luck with the build! Everything you have in your list looks good, you did well in picking out parts! Just ask if you have questions!

 

[kaydotz]

mjmjpfaff: only 750w for 6950 cf- http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CMPS [...] 711&sr=1-1

jasonw223: c) You could downgrade to the Corsair HX750 power supply, or go for my PSU, the AX750. It's a bit more efficient and fully modular. Still the same 7 year warranty. My AX750 is more than enough to run 2 GTX 580s, which are much more power hungry than a 6950 - so you'll have plenty of room to upgrade. 1000w PSUs are really only needed when you want a pile of hard drives, or at least 3 video cards.

Ok, so 1000w is way overkill. It was a suggestion from a sales guy at a local PC shop... go figure.

mjmjpfaff: (.0875 CA taxes highest in country)

I have a higher sales tax in Seattle (.095) than California?

jasonw223: a) I hate the ASRock Extreme 4. I have two Sandy Bridge builds that I use for the moment (check my configs to the left if you want). Definitely prefer the Gigabyte boards - I went for an all black one haha. You most likely won't need a Z68 board... P67 will do everything for you, and is a bit cheaper.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] =p67%20ud4

Yeah, I was a little uneasy about the ASRock board after a couple people told me they had bad experiences with them. After a little more research, it looks like I don't need the extra features of the Z68 either, so I'll go with a P67, and probably a cool looking black Gigabyte.

mjmjpfaff: case- http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Crafted [...] 518&sr=8-4

Ok, I'm sold... that is one sexy case.

jasonw223: e) Stick with Windows 7 OEM. It's technically tied to your motherboard, but I've never had any trouble if I had to change the board or something. Sometimes you just have to call Microsoft and tell them it's only installed on one PC to activate if you're swapping too often.

Good, I thought it might be tied to the HDD and that I'd have to buy a new OEM if I changed the HDD. Saves me $100!

jasonw223: g) I'd highly suggest an SSD, even though you don't 'need' one haha. It will cut your boot times, and program loading times in half. Makes a huge difference! Up to you I guess though!

Well, if I did buy a SSD, what would you recommend?

 

[mjmjpfaff]

9.5% that is rediculous.
for an ssd the crucial m4 128gb or 64gb they are really fast for a good price
even for a gold rated 750w psu it is not enough to run 2 gtx 580's. no way at all

 

[jasonw223]

10% here in my province, 12.5% in Quebec. You guys have it easy in the states.

As for your SSD, check out the OCZ lineup. They have the Solid 3, Agility 3 and Vertex 3 (in order from worst to best). Any of those have huge read and write speeds, and would work beautifully.

And as for the 750w psu...
I have personally run SLI 580s, with 3 hard drives and an overclocked CPU.
Here's some education from Anandtech as well for you:
http://www.anandtech.com/Show/Index/4011?cPage=3&all=False&sort=0&page=5&slug=corsair-ax750-80plus-gold

 

[kaydotz]

Ok, I'll look more into your guys' suggestions for SSDs, see if I really want one and if it fits in my budget.

As for if a gold rated 750w psu will run 2 gtx 580's, well... I don't really see how that affects me except for maybe future-proofing for two better cards than 6950's. I think I will take both of your advice and downgrade to a good 750w though.

.

 

[larrys640]

I think most did not understand your question about the Win 7 OS. You must have the 64 bit version to take advantage of all the MEM, and I went with the Professional version. Did not see any advantage with the Ultimate.
Larrys640

 

[mjmjpfaff]

ya 64 bit is necessary

 

[kaydotz]

Yes, I understand that I need the 64 bit version of Win 7. I was originally going to get the full retail version that includes both 32 bit and 64 bit flavors, and I was asking if it would be better to get the OEM version instead. Since the OEM version comes in either 32 bit OR 64 bit, I wanted to show that I knew I would need the 64 bit version if I decided to go OEM.

Hopefully that makes more sense.

 

[mjmjpfaff]

get the oem it is cheaper for the same product