Hi, I hope this info helps. i recommend COPYING it to a text file and carefully reading. I've discovered that the most important points are:
a) NOISE
b) BACKUPS
c) QUALITY (esp PSU and motherboard)
Quick points:
1) Always build yourself if possible. It will be cheaper even before you consider many parts such as the motherboard and Power Supply will be of superior quality.
2) A high-end gaming PC is almost always limited by the graphics quality.
3) Noise level and Graphics quality is always a trade-off.
4) Most games have little graphics benefit above a GTX560Ti.
Other points:
1) I recommend building a Sandy-Bridge based system (1155 motherboard etc)
2) For graphics I recommend an SLI, 2x560Ti setup.
3) Create three backups using a program like Acronis True Image (free version if a Western Digital hard drive is installed:
Backup #1- Windows 7 x64 is Activated (nothing else is done; ALWAYS keep this version)
Backup #2- all drivers and Microsoft Updates are installed (ALWAYS keep this version as well)
Backup #3- This backup is the one you update periodically. I recommend weekly backups. Create (always VERIFY) the new backup then delete the other full one.
4) Noise is important. I'll list recommended cooling info at the bottom.
5) Cases. I ended up disliking the "fancy" cases. They had too many issues. I absolutely LOVE my Antec 100 which is on sale at NCIX for only $40. *Instructions were not included, but it's important to know that you can pop off the entire front of the case to add a fan (snaps in) and access drives.
If you don't like the Antec 100 there are other options. I like cases with cable management. Make sure the case fits. Hard drive trays which holds multiple drives can be problematic if your graphics card is in the way. MEASURE EVERYTHING!!
There are some slightly OVERSIZED cases which are taller than normal and meant for SLI. I probably wouldn't get the Antec 100 for SLI/Crossfire but it's doable.
The CASE is the trickiest part to choose. Think carefully about space. I recommend ignoring "fancy" stuff like removable hard drive bays.
If price was no object, here is one of the very best cases. It turns the motherboard by 90deg (cables go up into the cable manage). It has three HUGE slow fans at the bottom. At least read about why it's such a great case if you want a different case.
http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/r-photo.ph...
(Silverstone RV02E)
6) CPU heatsink/fan. Always get one of these instead of stock. Measure carefully for case and motherboard. Try to get one with a fan inline with your case fans (to rear or top). BIOS settings may not be correct for non-stock (mine needed "voltage" to be set; it was set to "Auto" which did not work). Use any CPU program to test the CPU. If the fan varies, it's working properly. $40 is about the right amount to spend.
7) Gigabyte, Asus and MSI are good motherboards. I like either Gigabyte or Asus usually.
8) PSU's. Do a lot of research. Take what you need from this link:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/306040-28-500w-suffic...
9) CPU: about $300. Probably this one:
Intel Core i7 2600K Quad Core Unlocked Hyperthreading Processor LGA1155 3.4GHZ Sandy Bridge 8MB
10) RAM: DDR3 1600MHz, 8GB (likely 2x4GB modules)
11) Windows 7 Premium x64 OEM (remember to Activate BEFORE creating a backup. You do NOT wish to reinstall Windows from scratch as it's not only a pain but you have a limited number of Activations. RESTORING an Activated backup of Windows does NOT reduce your number of Activations.
12) SATA DVD burner (choose the best recommended. They're very cheap now). I recommend waiting for BluRay drives AND discs to get cheaper and faster.
13) Sound: I recommend waiting. Onboard sound is usually adequate but there is a noticeable difference. I'm happy with this:
- Auzentech X-Fi Forte, and
- M-Audio AV40 stereo speakers
I recommend the M-Audio AV40's if the thumping of bass is a concern. If not, I recommend researching a good 2.1 sound system (2.1 means stereo + subwoofer). Aside from quality speakers, get a volume control which can turn OFF the speakers (or a front-mounted OFF button on a speaker as well as a headphone AND auxiliary input. I plug my iPod into my AV40's with my PC off and have a nice stereo system.
There are some good audio cards out there that aren't too expensive. I haven't done research in a while. Again, I'd wait until your system is optimized unless you're sure. I've heard Asus has some good cards. I'd ignore EAX support via Audigy (not a big deal now).
14) headphones: do research.
15) drives:
a) 120GB OCZ Vertex 2 or 3 ("3" is more expensive but 2x the speed. personally I recommend gen 2 especially with reliability of gen 3 not yet proven), and
b) 2TB hard drive (do research into reliability of 2TB hard drives. my WD Green failed, but I don't know how that compares overall to other drives.
16) investigate Virtu for Sandy Bridge motherboards. I haven't investigated yet but I heard briefly something turning off graphics cards/Switchable graphics? Not sure.
Summary:
- building yourself is fun, less expensive, and gives you quality options you normally do not have with pre-builts
- building yourself has no added software that people dislike so much
- plan carefully. I recommend building a system based around an 1155 motherboard and CPU
- motherboard must support SLI if you wish to use multiple NVidia cards (Crossfire for AMD).
- noise is a serious issue. If you must go SLI, the GTX 560Ti is probably your best bet.
- research EVERY part, especially the Power Supply
- the most important detail with PSU and Graphics compatibility is the Amperage (current) on the 12V rail(s). Example, a 500W PSU has 22A per rail and two rails, however it has a COMBINED maximum of 36Amps. A GTX570 requires 38A. Does it work? No.
- look for sales. NCIX is a GREAT PLACE and most prices are very, very good. (in contrast TigerDirect is often very expensive).
**Airflow design:
Airflow design for computers is broken into two main aspects:
1) quick removal of heat from hot components (heatsink first, then heatsink fan)
2) overall air flow to remove case heat (120mm or greater case fans)
3) heat rises, in general air flow should come in the bottom-front and be removed at the top-rear though it's impossible to do this exactly (especially with bottom-mounted PSU's which I like because they do pull in CPU heat which is very stupid if you ask me)
4) large holes in cases (fan mounts with no fan installed) reduce air flow and overall effectiveness. Always tape over these holes. I use thin cardboard with packing tape and install on the inside.
There is an optimal balance between noise and heat removal, here's an example of one setup:
1) Case fans (120mm front-bottom and 120mm top-rear)
2) PSU (auto fan control)
3) graphics card (auto fan control)
4) CPU (large heatsink + 92mm or higher fan(s))
Other fan details:
1) case fans are usually very low-flow. I recommend 500 to 800RPM fans with ONLY ONE SPEED BY DESIGN (plug into the PSU's molex power connector)
2) CPU fan should be configured to spin at its lowest speed when idle. Usually, one need change the BIOS setting to Auto, Voltage or PWM. Test with any CPU stress benchmark and listen for fan to change. If it does not, change the BIOS setting.
*CPU fan must be plugged into the correct motherboard CPU fan slot.
**I hope this has been useful.
Summary #2:
1) start with NCIX
2) make a list of parts based on 1155 setup
3) research each component carefully
4) Measure carefully where needed (motherboard, fan, case, PSU)
5) TAKE YOUR TIME!!
6) backup Windows 7 as recommended and have a plan for various failures such as SSD, hard drive complete failure, software corruption etc.)
Some of my information may have changed, but this is a guideline.