Still no boot no power after changing almost everything

[flyingipis]

my pc just broke suddenly months ago, its an old c2d e6600 with an intel DQ965 mobo, running with 4gb of ram and a coolermaster realpower 550w.

the computer was just running normally, and the power went out just like that, no LEDs, no fans spinning, no PSU fan spinning. and when i press the power button, nothing happens. only the motherboard LED is on. i remember before when i flick the switch behind the psu, some kind of a psu power up happens where in all lights and fans spin for a second or so. it doesn't seem to happen now.

i thought to fix it lately, i tested the PSU with the paper clip test it went fine, so it leaves the mobo and the power switch of the case.

i bought a new mobo an ASUS P5G41C-M LX, to recycle my old e6600 to no avail. It seems to have the same problems with the older board: nothing happens with the power button, but the mobo standby power is on.

i got frustrated and bought a new PSU and case the next day, to cover all the possible angles: dead psu and broken power button. and still the same result.

i also read and reviewed this thread http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-boot-video-problems several times already to check if i missed anything.

is it possible that the processor is broken? i inspected the processor, no burns or such. i also checked all the wirings and im sure everything is connected fine. pins are also good on the motherboard both on the old one and the new one.

hope somebody could help

 

[flyingipis]

i changed the PSU, the mobo, and the Case already

from DQ965GF to Asus P5G41C-M LX
from coolermaster RealPower 550w to Corsair GS600w
from cm praetorean to cm usp100

the only old parts are the CPU itself, Rams and my videocard

i tried running only from one stick of ram and also switched them one at a time to no avail, still no power. only mobo LED.

 

[flyingipis]

is it possible that processor is fried? even though no visible marks of burn or damage?

 

[flyingipis]

the mobo should power up (get to post/bios) even if the rams are broken right?

if you dont install a processor on a motherboard, does it display the same symptoms as what i am experiencing: mobo LED only, no response from powerbuttons, no PSU 1 sec powerup?

 

[flyingipis]

ok thanks, unfortunately i have no one to lend me an lga 775 processor / motherboard to have my new mobo / old processor checked. hope to hear input from other users as well bump

 

[flyingipis]

bump*

 

[jsc]

Try breadboarding the system, then assembling and testing in stages.

The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.