No console output devices are found.

[Eagleye]

I just built a brand new pc and it can't detect my video output. I've even tried other video cards to make sure that wasn't the problem. The debug code that shows on my asrock p67 pro3 motherboard is "d6" and yes, I have gone through the checklist on the forums to troubleshoot it and now I'm here asking for help. Here are the parts I am using:
intel core i5-2500k sandy bridge
asrock p67 pro3
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8gb
Stock CPU fan
tried both of these video cards:
Geforce 8800GTX
HIS Radeon HD 5770
Antec EarthWatts 650W PS
Antec 300 case

 

[Rusting In Peace]

I'm sure you are very frustrated so forgive me if any of this is just repeating what's on the checklist (because I've never read it):

1) Ensure you've connected all power cables to the motherboard and not just the 24pin ATX cable.

2) Ensure all relevant power cables are connected to the graphics card.

3) Try resetting the BIOS by removing the motherboard battery for more than 20 seconds and re-seat it thereafter.

4) Remove all sticks of RAM bar one and try it in different slots

5) Try using another machine's PSU / test your PSU in another machine.

 

[Eagleye]

1. All power cables are connected.
2. Power cable is connected to the graphics card.
3. Already tried resetting the BIOS.
4 Tried removing all but one stick of RAM.
5. Don't have another machine to test the PSU with however it doesn't seem to be a PSU issue since everything, including the graphics card, turns on. The fan on the card turns on when i try to start up the machine.

...any other suggestions?

 

[Jon457]

1. All power cables are connected.
2. Power cable is connected to the graphics card.
3. Already tried resetting the BIOS.
4 Tried removing all but one stick of RAM.
5. Don't have another machine to test the PSU with however it doesn't seem to be a PSU issue since everything, including the graphics card, turns on. The fan on the card turns on when i try to start up the machine.

...any other suggestions?

Eagleye I have almost the same system and it's a new build and mine also will not POST.

My mobo, cpu and RAM are identical to yours. My vid card is 9800GT. Just verified it works fine in another system. My 600w PSU also works fine with different mobo. PSU is about 8 years old and all molex but I have all necessary power adapters like 20 to 24 pin main power and 4 pin to 8 pin server power adapter.

My issue is no beep codes or digital display codes at all (with barebones components in).

Fans spin on boot and keyboard lights up once.

I take the memory out I get the expected memory error and beeping.

Tried just one stick of ram in all 4 slots but still no error codes and no post.

I take the vid card out and get the console output "d6" digital code and beeping.

my fan2 3pin header does not work for some reason. The fan1 does work.


I don't mean to hijack your post but since we have almost the same exact system and problem I wanted to mention it.

CPU always stays ice cold to the touch. I do have a large cooler but I should be able to

feel some heat near the base after 60 seconds, probably sooner. I can't see any daylight between the hs and cpu so I think it's installed correctly.

Same results when taking the board out of the case completely.

 

[Eagleye]

No problem Jon. Hopefully it brings more attention to this post. I've searched for similar problems and never found anything useful.

 

[Rusting In Peace]

I've had a Google around for this and the best I can find is:

■ This thread (last post) where the guy managed to get rid of the issue by reseating his GPU. I'm sure you guys have but perhaps look even closer at how the GPU is seated in the motherboard.

■ Supposed compatibility issues between HIS cards and this motherboard.

Unfortunately both of these are pretty weak. It sounds like the both of you have been persistent in attempting to solve the issue. Perhaps raise an issue with ASRock directly or return the motherboard as faulty?

 

[Jon457]

I've had a Google around for this and the best I can find is:

■ This thread (last post) where the guy managed to get rid of the issue by reseating his GPU. I'm sure you guys have but perhaps look even closer at how the GPU is seated in the motherboard.

■ Supposed compatibility issues between HIS cards and this motherboard.

Unfortunately both of these are pretty weak. It sounds like the both of you have been persistent in attempting to solve the issue. Perhaps raise an issue with ASRock directly or return the motherboard as faulty?

Well, the short version is: I got it working.

I had the RMA in hand and had all but picked out my replacement board but I thought I should give it another try. I'm now posting from the new machine. Here is what I did for what it's worth.

- removed the cmos battery

- removed the heatsink and CPU. Pin 1 was correct and seating appeared good.

- inspected all socket pins with a magifying glass and light, no damage found.

- I noticed that I used too much thermal compound. A small amount had touched the substrate. I don't know if this could mess anything up but since it may be conductive I carefully removed any excess. Inspected the LGA arrray also, no issues.

- carefully replaced cpu. I noticed that the lever makes a disturbing crunching sound and takes much force. I guess this is correct because it works but hey whatever happened to Zero Insertion Force sockets.

- replaced cmos battery. I did clear the cmos many times before this using the jumper and the handy clear button the back pane but had not pulled the battery. Not sure why that would have made a difference but should have done it since it was easy. It was probably out for 15-20 min.

- placed heatsink on cpu _without_ tightening the base at all. Would never run like this but it should be ok to check post for a few seconds.

- installed one stick of ram in the first slot, closest to cpu. A1 I think.

- installed vid card. I believe I used different molex connectors on the card power pin that I did the first time. I did not note the original molex I used. Just saying in case there was a voltage issue to the card with the original connectors. I did not have a multimeter to check the voltages.

- made sure it was well seated

- had the mobo outside the case still on insulated pad.

At this point it posted. I tightened up the cooler carefully and added things one by one and it continued to post after each. Finally got everything installed and no problems.

As you can see I changed more than one thing at a time so I can't say for sure but it has to be one or more of these:

1. Maybe I had overtightened or unevenly tightened the heatsink base screws from the bottom of the board. I have a very large tower cooler so i didn't want to take any chances. I did try to do each screw evenly.

2. reseating the cpu? It looked fine to me when I took it apart but who knows.

3. clearing the cmos by removing battery

4. reseating the vid card


Thanks Rusting In Peace and feel free to give me "weak" suggestions any time.

Eagleye I hope you get yours going. Thanks for letting me butt in. Let me know what happens.

 

[Rusting In Peace]

Thanks Rusting In Peace and feel free to give me "weak" suggestions any time.

Well done buddy, glad you got it sorted. I just wish I could have given you both a definitive answer.

Unfortunately it's these really frustrating problems that are the hardest to solve and because of that people on any forum can't / won't help. It's easy to tell people what RAID is, or suggest a good motherboard for less than $200, it's another thing to help someone solve an issue when they've already basically been over it with a fine toothed comb! So again, well done for having the patience to try a few things.

Eagleye, in light of what Jon found perhaps you could do similar checks? I think if you were to do only three things from his list you should:

■ Leave the CMOS battery out for a long period of time.
■ Ensure the GPU is seated without issue.
■ Switch around power cables.

 

[Eagleye]

I'm glad you got it working but mine is still giving me the same problem even after doing everything you did Jon.

 

[Jon457]

Sorry you are in computer hell for so long Eagleye.

Here is one post on another forum that has many of the same things you describe. There is no solution posted but the poster suggest holding down the power button while power is off and I think I may have done that just before I got it working. I also tried powering up with no cpu but nothing happened.

If you are still working on it, maybe remove the battery for a few minutes, unplug the psu and then hit the power, then reconnect everything. You could short the two "power button" pins with a screwdriver to bypass all power switches just in case.

That would be invalid cpu type OR speed.
Hold down the delete key while it is trying to post ,see if the code changes.

The p67 boards seem to have a certain sensitivity to initial connections for some.
My original b2 board fired up first time, the b3 replacement board took a couple of hrs of trying.
Most no post problems u see are
concerned with 0xD6 no console output devices found, or similar ie gx card recognition problems.

See if holding down the power button stops the endless loop then turn off the psu and "pull the plug".

You probably havent missed anything but:
1.recheck all connections,then reseat all the components like the gx card ,1 stick of memory should do for testing.
2. if nothing happens reset/clear the cmos, make sure the pc is turned off and the psu is turned off and unplgged and discharge the capacitors by holding down the mbrd pwr button to clear the current. then clear cmos.
3. you might have to do this a few times.

The code would indicate that the cpu isnt seated correctly.. but removing and reseating it and reapplying tim will be a pain, but you might have to end up doing that.
If that doesnt work u might have to take out the battery and leave it for an hr or so to ensure clearing cmos works.

http://forums.tweaktown.com/asrock/44794-new-build-asrock-p67-pro3-wont-post.html

 

[Eagleye]

so remove the cmos battery, unplug the psu from the motherboard and hit the power switch on the pc?

 

[Jon457]

That is the theory as I understand it. Many tech support web sites and forums I see are suggesting that the residual power left in the capacitors may prevent a bios from being completely cleared. But if you make that power connection with no battery and no PSU power then supposedly it will drain all remaining power from the board and ensure the cmos chip is completely reset.

I suppose if you wanted to be really paranoid you could remove the main 24 pin power connector to the MB and then hit power once again.