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Gigabyte Z77 D3H BIOS hell?

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July 11, 2012 6:35:57 PM

Hi,

I've built the following machine:

Gigabyte Z77 D3H
i5 3570K
8GB Corsair Vengance 1600mhz
Sapphire HD7850
Antec Truepower 650w
3HDDs, 1 SSD.

I'm having some major issues with the Z77 bios:
Few system instability issues, so I Qflashed it to F14(from F10). It said this was successful but after that I just got a corrupt bios screen whenever I tried to get into the bios, use Qflash(any of the bios options on boot), although the machine could boot and function fine. It was a black screen with a bit of blue at the top with gigabyte UEFI dual bios written on it.

I've contacted support from the retailer and gigabyte and not had much luck solving it:
Can't flash it again because of corruption. Can't change any bios settings.
Tried booting from the second bios (ctrl F10 IIRC?) - no change.
Tried removing the CMOS - no change.
Tried various HD variations (individually and all together) - no change.

Was getting ready to RMA it, took all the cables off (CPU fans, Power LEDs etc) - Then had to put them all back in as my 3TB drive isn't recognised in my old system and I needed to back some data up. I hadn't removed the RAM, GPU or CPU at this point just the silly cables.
Tried the bios for some reason and it worked!

It's been running fine for 4 days, slowly building up the drivers and updates, able to get into the bios, confirmed F14 was installed on it and it's still detecting everything correctly - then today it's gone back to the black screen AGAIN! I booted up and SP1 was waiting if that's possibly relevant. I'm guessing it's a driver/software based issue but I have no idea what the conflicting object could be or how to restore the bios again. I can't believe taking the fan cables off made a difference but it seemed to?

Anyone experienced this? Is it really an intermittent or corrupt bios/board or am I right that it could be drivers or O/S based?
a c 462 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 8:06:01 PM

with cmos bios you need to go in order as each one as a small code change...i would go into the bios and use the f6 key..to go into the dos bios flash of the mb. i would then flash the bios back to f10 and then reboot..then flash bios to f11 then f12..f13..f14 and see if the error gone.
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 8:53:13 PM

Was it a clean windows installation?
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Related resources
a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 8:56:44 PM

U don't have the W7 service pack 1 installed?
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 8:58:19 PM

"After few system instability issues, so I Qflashed it to F14(from F10). "

What issues?
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 8:59:20 PM

The title of this topic has been edited by Nikorr
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 9:01:36 PM

Reset the CMOS memory the right way as is described in the motherboard manual using the clear CMOS link with the power cord unplugged.
And when the battery is out, press the power button to discharge all the electricity from the system.
How To Clear CMOS @ http://pcsupport.about.com/od/fixtheproblem/tp/clearcmo...

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July 11, 2012 9:25:03 PM

Thanks Nikorr - yes it was a clean windows install(new hard drive), and this was repeated saturday after I found the bios working again.

SP1 is installed now, but obviously wasn't with a clean windows install.

I was having some bluescreen and graphical issues, looking at the bios updates list it showed F10 was released just before my ivybridge processor and F14 improved CPU stability so it seemed the two would be linked - it was much improved after the bios flash which it said was successful - and must have been since I do now have F14. I have no idea why it started to work again and then stopped again as I didn't flash it at that point.

I might try and clear CMOS again later, but it didn't help at all last time.

Smorizio - I can't get into the bios to change or flash anything, it just displays a black screen and freezes.
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July 11, 2012 10:05:06 PM

Well I tried the CMOS again - get 3 options, Enter Bios, Load Optimized defaults and boot, Load Optimized defaults and reboot - all three just go to a black screen and do nothing. After reset I still can't get into the bios.
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 10:15:27 PM

OK, did u try to re-install the CPU?
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 10:19:55 PM

Can u try to make a run outside of the PC, with only CPU+FAN + RAM and PSU with connection to the LCD to see if it starts the BIOS?

All that installed to your mobo that is sitting just on the paper box it came in.

If that will be OK, than hook up the system drive.



That way we can eliminate any short in the case.

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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 10:21:36 PM

And do u do all that? -> Reset the CMOS memory the right way as is described in the motherboard manual using the clear CMOS link with the power cord unplugged.
And when the battery is out, press the power button to discharge all the electricity from the system.
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a c 462 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 10:43:53 PM

if you have to see if there a bios flashback for you mb..if there is one you plug a usb or cd into a cd-rom and the mb will reflash itself.
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 10:48:49 PM

Because all the issues are with another versions of the BIOS, it will be most-likely the HW.

I would try different PSU.


Did u plug back in the 8pin power cable, the CPU power 12v ATX connector?

And not the other one for the GPU.
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July 11, 2012 10:51:43 PM

nikorr said:
And do u do all that? -> Reset the CMOS memory the right way as is described in the motherboard manual using the clear CMOS link with the power cord unplugged.
And when the battery is out, press the power button to discharge all the electricity from the system.


Yes I did all that.
I could try the CPU tomorow, although I didn't remove it last time when the bios started working again, and I would have thought a short would affect the machine after boot up rather than just prevent bios access?
I'm still thinking driver/software related in some way? Checking the log files it seems there was a shutdown issue last night shortly after SP1 first tried to install.
Tried a system restore but it failed to complete. Alt+F10 doesn't seem to do anything either. Think tomorrow I might try to repeat exactly what I did saturday and see what happens. The machine itself seems to be running beautifully.
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 11:02:58 PM

Could be GPU too. I would try to use the mobo connection to lcd. And remove the card.
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July 11, 2012 11:04:09 PM

nikorr said:
Because all the issues are with another versions of the BIOS, it will be most-likely the HW.

I would try different PSU.


Did u plug back in the 8pin power cable, the CPU power 12v ATX connector?

And not the other one for the GPU.


It's a 4pin on this board + 6pin for my GPU. Unfortunately I don't have another PSU with that kind of power but it's pretty new. Is there any reason a PSU wouldn't boot into the bios but would run everything else?

I'll see about a bios flashback tomorrow, but the current bios was working a couple days back, even if it hasn't lasted long. I'm just trying to go by what has changed on the system over the past couple days.
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 11:06:32 PM

When u remove the GPU card, all u need for basic running 300W.
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 11:09:59 PM

lemming3k said:
Is there any reason a PSU wouldn't boot into the bios but would run everything else?

Yes, happens all the time. If the PSU has blown capacitor, it may give BSOD's, sometimes wont start up, it freezes the PC and more...
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 11:10:58 PM

It could be the mobo too. We need to eliminate the issues.
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 11:12:26 PM

Can u try to make a run outside of the PC, with only CPU+FAN + RAM and PSU with connection to the LCD to see if it starts the BIOS?

All that installed to your mobo that is sitting just on the paper box it came in.

If that will be OK, than hook up the system drive.

It may be shorting inside of the case.
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a c 328 V Motherboard
July 11, 2012 11:14:04 PM

U did used the stand offs, right?
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July 12, 2012 11:23:19 AM

nikorr said:
Yes, happens all the time. If the PSU has blown capacitor, it may give BSOD's, sometimes wont start up, it freezes the PC and more...

Well, that's what I mean, the only current issue is getting into the bios, I'm not getting anymore BSOD's or freezes at any other time since the bios flash, and don't seem to have any issues booting or running the machine (even under load for gaming). If it was a piece of hardware I'd think motherboard or GPU, but removing the GPU made no difference last time so that should just leave the board.

Yes I did use the standoffs. I'll try tonight to disconnect some components and see what happens.
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a b V Motherboard
July 12, 2012 2:15:10 PM

According the the Gigabyte motherboard Bios update version, the highest and latest is is F12 for Socket 1155 - Intel Z77 - GA-Z77-D3H (rev. 1.0)

http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-p...

I think you have corrupted your bios by flashing an incorrect version (unless the specs I've listed are not for your PC) and basically have "fried" your motherboard.

System instability is rarely, if ever, a bios problem (set at factory defaults and no overclocking) but more likely a driver issue if all the other components do comply equally.
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July 12, 2012 5:10:29 PM

TenPc said:
According the the Gigabyte motherboard Bios update version, the highest and latest is is F12 for Socket 1155 - Intel Z77 - GA-Z77-D3H (rev. 1.0)

http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-p...

I think you have corrupted your bios by flashing an incorrect version (unless the specs I've listed are not for your PC) and basically have "fried" your motherboard.

System instability is rarely, if ever, a bios problem (set at factory defaults and no overclocking) but more likely a driver issue if all the other components do comply equally.

According to the gigabyte site F14 is the latest, with F15f being the latest beta(on another site).
http://uk.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4...

If you click through from your page it also takes you to this page so I think your link might be out of date.
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a b V Motherboard
July 12, 2012 5:38:15 PM

lemming3k said:
According to the gigabyte site F14 is the latest, with F15f being the latest beta(on another site).
http://uk.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4...

If you click through from your page it also takes you to this page so I think your link might be out of date.


On that same site, you click the CPU Support list (button) then scroll though until you find your CPU model type.

I'm not downloading the info in the Downloads to check if the bios updates pertain to your specific CPU, you should ascertain that yourself.

Considering that your bios now is no longer functioning, perhaps you have updated to the wrong version?

How to reflash the bios -
http://www.gigabyte.com/webpage/20/HowToReflashBIOS.htm...

What benefit did you hope to attain by upgrading the bios?
What type f system instability was happening?
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July 12, 2012 7:36:06 PM

It's possible, but F14 isn't listed at all in that list, so I'd guess the list is now out of date. Using @bios it suggests F14 as the latest for my motherboard, and it was running fine for a few days.
I've flashed it back to F12 and it's still the same. Might try F10 as that was the original but as it was released before Ivybridge I think that's what caused the issues.

I was getting a lot of blue screens, freezing, occassional reboots etc and all other drivers were up to date. I'm not getting any of these issues with F14.
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July 12, 2012 8:37:05 PM

Well I'm back to F10 and I can get into the bios. I'm getting a lot of screen flicker now though on one of my monitors.
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a b V Motherboard
July 12, 2012 9:01:24 PM

A screen flicker might infer a faulty GPU chip. It could also infer a loose connection on the monitor or the PC if the screw ons are not screewed into place. I usually dont bother but a few weeks ago, I got funny colours on the monitor and intermittent loss of display and it was a few hours of exhausting procedures to realise the connecting cable had moved out of the vga port and I had knocked it out of place (ever so minutely) when moving some game CD packs that I got stacked behind it.

I turned on my computer yesterday and I got yellow lines running up and down my screen. I went through many procedures to try to rectify it untill irealised that nothing I did made any changes. I had to replace the GPU with the one I got in my Win7 x64 PC (which I rarely use). This PC I use for internet, it's Win7 x32. The BIOS in this PC is amibios 2005. I'mn not going to update it.

You have to check the Bios date/time are set to now time, and check that the GPU is set as primary.
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July 13, 2012 11:26:10 AM

TenPc said:
A screen flicker might infer a faulty GPU chip. It could also infer a loose connection on the monitor or the PC if the screw ons are not screewed into place. I usually dont bother but a few weeks ago, I got funny colours on the monitor and intermittent loss of display and it was a few hours of exhausting procedures to realise the connecting cable had moved out of the vga port and I had knocked it out of place (ever so minutely) when moving some game CD packs that I got stacked behind it.

I turned on my computer yesterday and I got yellow lines running up and down my screen. I went through many procedures to try to rectify it untill irealised that nothing I did made any changes. I had to replace the GPU with the one I got in my Win7 x64 PC (which I rarely use). This PC I use for internet, it's Win7 x32. The BIOS in this PC is amibios 2005. I'mn not going to update it.

You have to check the Bios date/time are set to now time, and check that the GPU is set as primary.

Looking through the connections they seem fine. Usually I'd say it's the cable as it's only on one of the monitors (the one with a HDMI to DVI cable), but it hasn't flickered under the F14 bios with the latest drivers so I'm thinking there's something in the drivers and bios compatibility. Or it could be the clock speed - I read somewhere that factory OC'd cards can cause this kind of flicker running at lower speeds. Might tweak it up and see, expirement with drivers and then decide if it's a fault.

Date and time settings are correct, the GPU is set to auto - I may be wrong but the Z77 choice seems to ask for the slot of the card rather than primary - semantics or perhaps in another section of the bios there's another GPU setting?
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a b V Motherboard
July 13, 2012 3:04:42 PM

.Gigabyte Z77 D3H
i5 3570K
8GB Corsair Vengance 1600mhz
Sapphire HD7850
Antec Truepower 650w
3HDDs, 1 SSD.


THe GPU requires 1X75 Watt 6-pin PCI Express power connector so if you are using a molex connector then that is proof that your PSU is not up to the standard. A molex connector is more extending the length of a cable that is to short rather than adding a type to fit the hardware.

As per your specs, the 650 watt PSU is not really providing adequate power for all of your devices. An SSD requires 100 watts power alone. If you use VM ware or a virtual PC, that requires 2gb of ram and it does impact on the CPU and power consumption.

You are best to check the PC Health voltages in BIOS, post them if possible.
Usually, a bios update is for the lan and network and not for anything about the GPU.

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July 13, 2012 5:30:06 PM

TenPc said:
.Gigabyte Z77 D3H
i5 3570K
8GB Corsair Vengance 1600mhz
Sapphire HD7850
Antec Truepower 650w
3HDDs, 1 SSD.


THe GPU requires 1X75 Watt 6-pin PCI Express power connector so if you are using a molex connector then that is proof that your PSU is not up to the standard. A molex connector is more extending the length of a cable that is to short rather than adding a type to fit the hardware.

As per your specs, the 650 watt PSU is not really providing adequate power for all of your devices. An SSD requires 100 watts power alone. If you use VM ware or a virtual PC, that requires 2gb of ram and it does impact on the CPU and power consumption.

You are best to check the PC Health voltages in BIOS, post them if possible.
Usually, a bios update is for the lan and network and not for anything about the GPU.

Erm, the 650w comes with a 6-pin PCI express connector - in fact I think it has 2, and possibly an 8 as well. Running it through most sites it should be more than adequate for that system.
According to this (and a few other reviews)an Agility 3 SSD takes 2.7W, could you show where you found 100 watt consumption for SSDs as that seems really high?
http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-agility-3-sata-iii-2-5...

I haven't used VM ware or virtual PC yet, but I'd have thought 8GB of ram plenty for a gaming machine.

I honestly don't know why it worked better with F14 or why it would, and I think you're correct in saying it shouldn't matter - so I could only assume the GPU driver and F14 worked better as a pair than it does with F10. :/ 
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a b V Motherboard
July 13, 2012 6:08:58 PM

Okay, the reference to SSD needing 100 watts is not totally accurate (although I'm sure I read it somewhere) but is more about reserving power for the drive and every other drive type installed rather than falling short when at its most crucial use like during a back up or downloading a huge file or data copy, video editing and programming. On average, an SSD may take as much as 12 watts depending on volume and brand.

Perhaps refer to http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/249934-32-hard-drive-...

As an example and not accurate, if your motherboard uses 85 watts, the GPU uses 140 watts, the PSU uses 12 watts, you also have to account for ram per module, other hardware, external devices etc.
The 650 watts is more than likely acceptable, you just have to ensure that you have more than what is required at peak. A PSU may be 650 watts (and have total output of 650 watts) but some of them have an efficiency of only 82%, their total output being less than stated.

It could be that your motherbaord is not suited to the requirements of the GPU which might have been better suited to a later model.

1.1 x D-Sub port
2.1 x DVI-D port, supporting a maximum resolution of 1920x1200
* The DVI-D port does not support D-Sub connection by adapter.
3.1 x HDMI port, supporting a maximum resolution of 1920x1200
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4...

You have all those great onboard vidoe ports but went for an addon GPU?


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July 13, 2012 7:24:33 PM

TenPc said:
Okay, the reference to SSD needing 100 watts is not totally accurate (although I'm sure I read it somewhere) but is more about reserving power for the drive and every other drive type installed rather than falling short when at its most crucial use like during a back up or downloading a huge file or data copy, video editing and programming. On average, an SSD may take as much as 12 watts depending on volume and brand.

Perhaps refer to http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/249934-32-hard-drive-...

As an example and not accurate, if your motherboard uses 85 watts, the GPU uses 140 watts, the PSU uses 12 watts, you also have to account for ram per module, other hardware, external devices etc.
The 650 watts is more than likely acceptable, you just have to ensure that you have more than what is required at peak. A PSU may be 650 watts (and have total output of 650 watts) but some of them have an efficiency of only 82%, their total output being less than stated.

It could be that your motherbaord is not suited to the requirements of the GPU which might have been better suited to a later model.

1.1 x D-Sub port
2.1 x DVI-D port, supporting a maximum resolution of 1920x1200
* The DVI-D port does not support D-Sub connection by adapter.
3.1 x HDMI port, supporting a maximum resolution of 1920x1200
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4...

You have all those great onboard vidoe ports but went for an addon GPU?

Yeh, quite simply the 4000 internal graphic isn't that good for gaming. Whilst on board graphics have come a long way for basic use they're still no substitute for a graphics card.
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/353413-15-intel-gra...

Also according to this my system is less than 400w, even if I class the z77 as a "high end" motherboard and OC the CPU.
http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine

And this suggests a 500w psu would be plenty for a 7850:
http://www.amd.com/uk/products/desktop/graphics/7000/78...
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a b V Motherboard
July 13, 2012 7:41:51 PM

Getting back tot the "black" screen, that usually infers a problem with the GPU ram, it being over used. Perhaps you game for too many hours. It could be that the FPS are set too high.

What game are you playing when you get the black screen?
What in-game video settings have you set?
Have you tweaked the Display settings in any way?
Do you play one game then Alt+F4 to exit the game quickly rather than use the menu exit?
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July 13, 2012 11:43:42 PM

It occurs randomly, on the desktop, on games such as indie games with not much graphics to civ 5. Sometimes the machine hasn't been on that long. It just flicks to a black screen without cursor for a half second then back to normal. Not often more than once so far.
I usually let it auto-detect or set things on the highest possible. Even my 4670 ran most games comfortably on mid-high except the most recent stuff so I'd expect a lot more from the 7850.
I don't use alt+F4 outside of browsers. Both displays set to 60hz refresh rate so that should be fine.
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a b V Motherboard
July 14, 2012 1:07:12 AM

It does sound like a GPU problem, perhaps a gpu chip.
Is your model the OC or regular? I really don't know if there is a difference, though.

SAPPHIRE HD 7850 OC 2GB GDDR5
http://www.sapphiretech.com/presentation/product/?cid=1...

SAPPHIRE HD7850 2GB GDDR5
http://www.sapphiretech.com/presentation/product/?cid=1...

Also, have you loaded all the utilites or just using the basics?
Have you turbo-charged the GPU?

There's not a lot left to consider other than too many utilities of the GPU bogging the system.
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July 14, 2012 12:59:09 PM

It's the OC. I've loaded CatalystControlCentre with the latest drivers but that's about it. The GPU isn't turbo-charged as far as I know.
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a b V Motherboard
July 14, 2012 4:43:17 PM


You could try a GPU testing utility - GPU-Z
http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/SysInfo/GPU-Z/

The only other thing you can do is use the onboard video port and see if the same problems occur. Perhaps try each of the video out, one at a time but remove any other cables from the GPU like for a secondary monitor.

You may have to set the onboard as primary in Bios if the display does not show.
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July 15, 2012 10:20:15 PM

Changed the idle 2D clock speeds and I haven't noticed it flicker so far. Hopefully if it gets through the week that should mean everything's ok.
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a b V Motherboard
July 15, 2012 10:41:53 PM

It's always good to get feedback, hopefully this is your solution.

Nvidia have always been at the forefront for games and AMD/Ati have always had conflicting issues unless a game was specifically made for it. It's only in recent years that AMD has complied to more traditional settings when they took over ATi.

When a PC Game is written, it is done (programmed) on a computer with the graphics card installed and only when it is in beta version is it tested for compliancy to other brands and models of GPU. Not all PC games will work on all GPU's, you just can't have it both ways but you also can't have one computer for each of the games you want to play. Sometimes, you have to forfeit a game if your settings do not comply.

I"ve got a game called Pariah and I got 10 computers (TenPC) ranging from Windows 95 to Windows 7 64 bit and I still can't get the game to work because I don't have the video card that the game requires to play. :(  The game is much like Doom 3 and Halo so it would be good to get it going (one day).
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September 4, 2012 11:34:06 AM

TenPc said:
It's always good to get feedback, hopefully this is your solution.

Nvidia have always been at the forefront for games and AMD/Ati have always had conflicting issues unless a game was specifically made for it. It's only in recent years that AMD has complied to more traditional settings when they took over ATi.

When a PC Game is written, it is done (programmed) on a computer with the graphics card installed and only when it is in beta version is it tested for compliancy to other brands and models of GPU. Not all PC games will work on all GPU's, you just can't have it both ways but you also can't have one computer for each of the games you want to play. Sometimes, you have to forfeit a game if your settings do not comply.

I"ve got a game called Pariah and I got 10 computers (TenPC) ranging from Windows 95 to Windows 7 64 bit and I still can't get the game to work because I don't have the video card that the game requires to play. :(  The game is much like Doom 3 and Halo so it would be good to get it going (one day).

It's more like you're stupid and can't get the game working. I'm judging that by the nonsense in your posts, such as an SSD using 100watts.
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a b V Motherboard
September 4, 2012 11:50:10 AM

strika said:
It's more like you're stupid and can't get the game working. I'm judging that by the nonsense in your posts, such as an SSD using 100watts.

Yeah, I am stupid but I did get the game going but only on Windows XP SP3.

The 100 watts is what I reead on a different Tech forum so it's not me, it's them!! :pt1cable: 

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September 4, 2012 1:19:53 PM

TenPc said:
Yeah, I am stupid but I did get the game going but only on Windows XP SP3.

The 100 watts is what I reead on a different Tech forum so it's not me, it's them!! :pt1cable: 

I probably overstated it and came accross like an asshole. Sorry about that.
SSDs are very efficent and use something ridiculous like 0.5/1w on load, a lot less than hard drives. I could only imagine something like a 15,000 RPM hard drive years ago could use something close to 100w, which is still unlikely :D 

It doesn't matter much at all which graphics card you have for the game to run, unless there's serious compatibility issues, as well as driver issues. Though a game that doesn't work well across many different hard drive is a bad game.

Next time to try and get an old game working on a newer machine just make good use of the compatibility feature in Windows 7, (right click the game .exe) set it to XP or whatever. I'm sure you could have that game running on a W7 machine if you used that.
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a b V Motherboard
October 14, 2012 3:47:05 PM

strika said:
It's more like you're stupid and can't get the game working. I'm judging that by the nonsense in your posts, such as an SSD using 100watts.


I was wondering where the SSD using 100 watts came from myself!

Tom
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November 12, 2012 10:41:11 AM

Hi,

I have this MOBO with originaly F11 BIOS. CPU is the same i5-3570K. My problems started after the flash bios to F18. I have v1.0. The bios worked for few days well, at least it seemed so. But problems appear soon, BSOD randomly. First of all i guessed WIN8 problems, then i though that OC was too much and has a pernament defect of the core. OCCT gave me errors. But i was running only at 4,6GHz at 1,33V on Vcore, temp under 90C. I didnt use OC for a long time. Only for some tests. :(  ...
After few days i coudn't get into BIOS ! Q-Flash freezed too. I tried changing RAM sticks and nothing. I wasn't able to recover to F11.
Then I find a solution.
Method 1 :
1. Shut your PC down
2. Hold the power AND the reset button for about 10 sec, than release.
3. Backup BIOS should kick in anytime soon now.


It will recover it from backup manually(forced).

For me it works, PC restarts some times and it goes well. Stability test now holds.

Method #1:
1. Shut your PC down (if you're reading this guide, than your PC isn't working anyways)
2. Hold the power button until the PC starts and shuts down again
3. Press the power button again, your backup BIOS should kick in now and should re-flash the main BIOS if there's anything wrong with it.

There is one more method with pins, but i dont know which.

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!