My $750 gaming pc build.

I was looking to build a new gaming pc and run a few autoCAD and autodesk software. I'm pretty sure I can run the autodesk software with any pc these days, so this system is way qualified for the software. I updated a few parts from advices in this forum, I want to make sure it's right. Also, I was trying to find a good case that comes with GOOD WORKING fans, so I don't have to go out and buy some myself. This is the updated build.

intel i5 2500k

msi p67a-g43

coolermaster hyper 212 plus universal cooler
cpu cooler:

2x2GB ripjaws G.Skill RAM

gtx 560 gpu

seagate 1TB 32mb cache 7200 rpm

lite-on dvd writer

psu: (look below)

Rosewill Challenger gaming case.

I plan on getting a 2nd gtx 560 in a year after I make this build. I calculated the voltage to the psu, and 600 is good enough for sli, but i don't know the voltage of the cpu after it is overclocked and I don't know what speed to overclock it to, so I might have to change the psu.
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  1. I doubt that PSU could handle SLI. Its Rosewill and not even 80+. Everything else looked good. I'd definitively invest in a 80+ PSU from a more reliable brand like Antec, Corsair, Enermax, etc. If you step up to a GTX560ti you won't be sorry either.

    OCing your CPU won't really require you to need a more powerful PSU. Your CPU will push out what it has been labeled to push out. They just don't last 5+ years if you OC. I would get a 650W or greater PSU if I even going to consider SLI. It would be better to play it safe then with a dud PSU.

    Also, if I wasn't so bored I would have completely ignored this post. Nobody likes clicking mystery links. Label your links above or with the link next time please.
  2. BohleyK said:

    Also, if I wasn't so bored I would have completely ignored this post. Nobody likes clicking mystery links. Label your links above or with the link next time please.

    True that.
  3. Idk it looks like 600 watts is enough. You said the voltage output of an overclocked cpu is the same as it was if it was not overclocked. With SLI, overclocked cpu, my voltage totaled to be 580 watts as the recomended. I used this to calculate my power.

    I also labeled everything, sorry about that.

    I plan on leaving my computer on 24/7, but I don't think I need an energy efficient psu because don't computers barely use any electricity? All it is powering is a few fans, lights, graphics card, motherboard, and hard drive. They don't use much electricity right?
  4. looks nice but i defiantly agree about the PSU, its the one part of the system where if it fails, it can kill other components too. better to spend too much on a psu than too little.

    liking the case :)
  5. Okay well I found the Antec 650 watts 80+ certified for a good steal at newegg.

    I am not exactly sure about the power usage of the comp.

    There is something called "capacitor aging" and I do not know what setting to put it at. People told me to ignore it, but I think it's something look at because I plan to leave my comp on 24/7. It will remain idle at night though.
  6. the link doesn't show what you put together. You are cutting it close with 600W and overclocking a CPU does increase the wattage. Probably about 30W to get the 2500k to 4.0GHz.

    A rule of thumb for a PSU is buy 10-15% more than you need especially if you are overclocking. The PSU is the heart of your system, if it can't give enough power nothing works. In other words if you need 600W for the system, buy a 700W PSU.
  7. without aging I need a 550 watt psu (This is without not knowing how much the overclocked voltage uses) and I am getting a 650 watt psu. I am really trying to fit my budget and with the new psu I only went to 743, so I am 7 away from my max.

    If I bust out of my budget, what are things I can do to cut power. Maybe I should reconsider using SLI. If I use sli how better is it than 1 graphics card? Maybe I can change the psu when I want to do SLI. If 650 watts is good, then I can do SLI, if not, I need to find a psu that is 70 dollars or less. If I cannot, then I will need to cut some things off.

    I also found a problem. People said a cpu cooler with a 120mm fan will NOT fit into my case. Is this true? If yes I have to change my case.
  8. 650 is still too close for my comfort and if you don't believe me then read this:

    It suggests 700+ for SLI and 800 if you plan on overclocking. And capacitor aging is a real problem if you keep the PSU for more than a year.

    If $70 is the budget for the PSU you aren't going to find a name brand with 700+, maybe a knock off that'll catch on fire though...

    SLI is too much of a hassle IMO, with drivers and compatibility issues, but some like it and when it does work it will give you better performance per $.
  9. The CM Hyper 212+ will fit into the Rosewill Challenger. As for PSU, I recommend at least 600-700W from brands like Seasonic, Antec, or Corsair. Anything made by Seasonic is good. The Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200rpm gives good performance. You should switch from Seagate to that.
  10. One of the reasons people are suggesting a larger PSU is that PSUs that are running at 90 -100% of their load aren't efficent, something that has the leeway of an extra 100watts or so are more efficent and have less risk of frying.

    I'd suggest swaping the seagate drive for this currently the best bang for buck, faster and quieter than the seagate
  11. Okay updated HD then.

    I guess I have no choice but to get a 700+ psu. If you check the intel budget builds thread page in the new builds section of this forum, you will see some people used 650 watt psu, but they used radeon HD 6850/6870 graphics cards.

    Anyway If I really have to go with a 700+ watt psu, I found this antec one that provides 750 watt psu. You said 700 watts is the minimum for SLI and that overclocking your cpu takes 30 watts.
  12. I found a better psu. It has a chance at a 25 dollar off mail in rebate. IT is also free shipping.

    My new total is $779. This is before any mail in rebate. But, I heard that mail in rebates never come, but I think out of all the stuff I bought that has mail in rebates, at least 1 item has to come and thats 20 dollars off. With mail in rebates, I will save a lot. Any idea on these mail in rebates?
  13. mazchazo said:
    I found a better psu. It has a chance at a 25 dollar off mail in rebate. IT is also free shipping.

    I was just about to suggest the same one :p, it's really a steal. Rebates only don't come because people don't send them in on time or don't include all the UPCs and such. They are a pain in the ass to do, but they make them like that so people won't bother. I've always gotten mine, but just make sure you read the fine print when you send it in.
  14. What are things should I consider? I'll send the mail-in rebate deal on the first day they send me the products in mail.

    Also I am having 2nd thoughts about SLI. When I want to get the 2nd gpu, which is in 1 year, maybe there is already a better graphics card than the gtx 560 I got, then even with SLI, it is better to have the new single card than the SLI i plan to buy.

    I was thinking if it really is worth it to spend 300-400 dollars on SLI, when there will be a new card anyway to replace that and even with SLI, it's better. What do you think?
  15. For rebates it's usually the UPC, a receipt/invoice, and some kind of form to fill out. If you are really concerned about it, it's good to make a copy of everything you send in case they do lose it.

    I think SLI is too much work with drivers and such, plus like you said, by the time you really need a second card there will always be a much better single card available. That said, when SLI works it gives some great performance.

    You should still get the ANTEC PSU, it's a great deal for what it is and it will be way more efficient if you are only using 60% of it.
  16. The Antec EA 650W you linked above is fine.
  17. dalauder said:
    The Antec EA 650W you linked above is fine.

    Not for SLI, it would put it at 90% + usage, which is never good to run long term. Not to mention the peak wattage is often listed, not the sustained wattage. plus the 750W is only $10 more and seems like a better PSU overall.
    The 500 seagate makes a good boot drive, it is $52 with a dvd burner. It's better to have a second drive for your media/program folder/steam folder drive. The samsung f3 is faster than the seagate for a 1tb drive. There are more dvd burner/hdd combos if you look.
    $39.99 Sentey Black Box Series BX1-4285 v2.1 Black SECC ATX Mid Tower Computer Case (has fans).
    $79.99 KINGWIN ABT-850MM 850W

    That board you picked out is a crossfire only board. You need to find one that supports two slots at x8 speeds, and it says it supports sli.

    -crossfire might be cheaper.
    $129 sli gigabyte board.
    $79.99 same gigabyte board but the crossfire version.

    ? $50 for sli. I would say put that $50 into a amd card instead. something like this.
    $239.99 $209.99 after mail-in rebate free DIRT3 game Free Shipping
    XFX HD-695X-ZNFC Radeon HD 6950 1GB

    Get a second 6950 later on.
  19. It's not gonna use 600W typically during usage. It'll peak at 600W and use 500W most of the time. If we were talking about a GTX 560Ti, I'd really give more credence to the idea of more than 650W, but it's a GTX 560. Besides, SLI only uses about 160% the power of a single card.

    The GTX 560Ti's use about the same power as GTX 460's and GTX 460's have several 650W with the same current as the EA650 listed in the SLI ZONE as SLI certified. Do you think they'd be SLI certified if it was even close to not providing enough power?

    Here you can see total system power usage at load is only 349W with a single GTX 560 and that is in Furmark--Crysis uses 50W less. A second won't add more than 150W. Consider that this test is ran on the X58 platform--so you can pretty safely assume that an OC'd i5-2500K still fits in about the same power envelop. The OC'd Graphics use about 50W more, let's call that 80W for SLI. So the maximum possible power draw is about 349W+150W+80W (for GPU OC) = 580W.

    That is kinda high, but that's only during Furmark. During Crysis II, it's only gonna be at 500W.

    Going at high usage isn't too bad with higher quality PSUs because most of them actually have extra capacity--my point is that it's more like running them at 75% longterm, which won't produce as ridiculous of heat as 90% load on a lower quality PSU. And heat is where you're gonna get capacitor aging--or at least a reduction in capacitor lifetime.

    So the bottom line is--750W would be VERY safe. 650W is enough, but you'll want to make sure your case isn't a hotbox and actually ventilates stuff fine. Then 650W will be plenty.
    $79.99 BIOSTAR TH67B LGA 1155 Intel H67 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s Micro ATX Intel Motherboard B3 Version, UEFI Bios, CrossfireX, HDMI, SATA 6Gbps

    If you look at the gigabyte boards, they have non-standard pcie slot spacing.
    So you have to find longer crossfire ribbon connectors that connect the 2 cards together. The sli board has a longer sli ribbon in the picture, but no longer crossfire ribbons in the picture for the crossfire board. Maybe it is included but i would check.
  21. dalauder said:
    So the bottom line is--750W would be VERY safe. 650W is enough, but you'll want to make sure your case isn't a hotbox and actually ventilates stuff fine. Then 650W will be plenty.

    I'll concede that 650 is probably enough for this build.

    However, the 750W is only $10 more. it'll still be plenty if he ever decides to upgrade to a newer graphics card in a year or two. A good PSU can last 5-7 years, or more if you're lucky. It's more flexible for future upgrades, so I think it's a better buy.
  22. I think that site gave misleading information to my mobo. On newegg, it said my mobo is sli/crossfirex compatible. It just doesnt come with the connection ribbon.

    Since there are cheaper crossfirex boards, wouldn't it be a better idea, to get a cheaper board, and put that money into better graphics? I don't like radeon or AMD graphics cards because I heard that their driver stuff is hard getting it right and it's annoying. Can someone confirm this?
  23. I have 2 systems with 4870's, one is a older socket 939 x2-4400+ and the other is a x2-6000+ am2. My parent's old e-machines is also 939-x2-4200+/3870 and their living room pc is 939-3500+/3850. all win xp-pro.
    My buddy is running a regor 250@3.6ghz/4870 as well, but win7 32bit.

    The only one that seems to have driver troubles and i had to use a older driver/catalyst version is the 3500+/3850 system.

    I am sure there are some bugs, nvidia is known to have some driver bugs too.
    I don't think there are any computer parts that are 100% bug free, after all it is a pc running microsoft windows.'
  24. which has the less errors?
  25. Ok it does seem to be crossfire/sli in that link.
  26. mazchazo said:
    which has the less errors?

    Both are pretty good today, so either one is a good choice. AMD doesn't have the problems anymore that earned them the bad reputation. Nvidia might be a bit better when it comes to SLI profiles. It is still very game specific for both SLI and Crossfire, but crossfire scales a bit better, I think. You won't miss much going with either one.
  27. The opteron 64 core is still the most stable and has the best software support of any cpu. I am not saying the 2500k is bad, but amd does have some advantages too.
    If you want a more bug free system, get a amd cpu, decent am3+ crossfire/sli board, hd-6950. Later on upgrade to the new cpu.
    The cpu, chipset, video card are all amd so it should be more bug free.
    The phenomII is still fast enough for a year or 6 months till the new cpus are out for a while.

    Like this board.
    GIGABYTE GA-990XA-UD3 AM3+ AMD 990X SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard AM3+ CPU,8+2 Phase VRM,2 Way SLI,Dolby Home Theater

    Ok you give up a bit of cpu speed for a nicer board and chipset.
    AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition Heka 2.8GHz Socket AM3 95W Triple-Core bundled 1x Thermaltake CLP0575 130mm CPU Cooler Support up to 240W
    $137.99 -$15 promo code, so $122.99. Ok i picked the combo with the largest cpu cooler for reuse later. The cpu is $59.99 with the rebate.

    The x3 has a good chance at unlocking to a quad, it should overclock well with the massive cooler.
    Mostly the cooler is ready to overclock the new cpu when they come out.

    -Sell the phenomII x3 with the bulldozer boxed amd oem cooler.
  28. Kinda late for me to get in but yeah, Get a 800W+ PSU and get 8GB RAM, 4GB Is kind of low for a system like that ^^, Anything more then 8GB Is overkill though.
  29. @need4speeds--You're not making a lot of sense. The guy's getting an i5-2500K and can afford it. Why would he downgrade to a Phenom II x3 on the gamble that Bulldozer's gonna come out soon and be that much better and somehow make his money back? Also, you posted an H67 mobo for his i5-2500K.

    @OP--Please ignore need4speeds until he starts making some sense.

    @Som42--Yeah, get the 750W if you can afford it and it's only $70 from a good manufacturer. My bad, I didn't see that Antec 750W was only $70. That's a great deal.

    OP...I'll post a specific mobo a little later...

    CPU: i5-2500K

    Mobo: Gigabyte Z68

    PSU: Antec 750W

    HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB

    Graphics: $205 GTX 560Ti w/ Lifetime warranty or a $143 Radeon 6870

    Other parts don't benefit from my inpout.

    EDIT: Oops, RAM 4GB for $30 or 8GB for $55 1600CL9 or faster DDR3. I'd get the $22 (AR) PNY 2x2GB 1600CL8 stuff on Newegg.
  30. DANG.

    Check out that combo man. Easily the motherboard is just as good if not better because of the SSD feature. Also the total will be just about what you have right now with RAM and MOBO, but you get 16gb of beautiful RAM.
  31. I didn't actually post on the mobo yet. But that's the cheap $80 Gigabyte that's good for CrossfireX, but not SLI. If I was buidling now, I'd get that with a 6950 2GB and just plan on crossfiring. But if you go SLI, you'll want one of the other boards that support it.

    16GB of RAM is pretty much useless for the average user but that is a lot of RAM for that price. I'd probably go for saving $30 and just getting 8GB though (2x4GB is often only $55 or so). Anyhow...not a bad choice if you go for a Radeon graphics card. Otherwise, I'd get a more expensive SLI capable mobo.
  32. I am very confused now. We went from picking a gpu to a mobo.

    need4speeds, I can get cheap cpus for a good price.

    I am confused. We went from gpus to mobos. I don't see anything wrong with the mobo I chose originally.

    It is 130 dollars and with the mail-in rebate it is 110. It is SLI and crossfire compatible, I just need to buy the connection bridge.

    Here is the scenario. I just want a computer that can play my steam games like team fortress 2, bioshock, new fps games, crysis, etc. I don't have to worry about it working with autodesk programs because this system is overqualified to work with them.

    I live close by MicroCenter. They offer cheap cpu's and cpu and mobo deals.

    I don't know what gpu to get, I am still choosing between radeon or nvidia. That guy said that there are mobos that have inconsistent spacing between the pci 2.0 x16 slots, so it's hard to find a crossfirex connection bridge that's long. I think my mobo has inconsistent spacing as well. But I found a crossfirex connection bridge that is 10 cm long, do you think that's long enough? If I pick a card for sli/crossfirex it looks like I can only choose one brand and I have to stick with it forever as long as I have this new computer. Unless, there are long crossfirex connectors, then that solves everything.

    Do you think I can make a better amd system? I just don't feel comfortable because intel is better and they are more experienced. I also heard amd has overheating issues. Anyway, I can buy a hexa core 1090t black edition AMD processor for the same price I am buying the i5 2500k. I will most likely go with the 2500k, but I am just throwing that out there just in case we should make a AMD system.
  33. Just found a kick ass z68 SLI board, even comes with the bridge.

    here's a board that is sli and crossfireX compatible and gives both connectors.
    Do crossfirex compatible boards only use radeon gpus? Let's say I want to use a single card nvidia card on a crossfirex board. Or a radeon card on a sli board?
  34. Biostar is a second rate brand. They're better than Foxconn by quite a bit, but they're below Asus, Gigabyte, ASRock, & MSI--in that order.

    There was nothing wrong with your original board, the but kick ass one is better for the price.

    DEFINITELY buy your CPU at Microcenter. I wish I lived near one.

    An i5-2500K is markedly better than an AMD 1100T (or 1090T) in nearly every way. In every way it's not better, it is equal: :
    Go with the i5-2500K, especially when you live near Microcenter.
  35. Ooh! Awesome Microcenter combo:

    When you add both to your cart, that mobo is only $110! And it has a $15 rebate! The Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 is a $165 motherboard for only $95! Wow...I wish I lived near Microcenter.
  36. The board comes with the sli bridge. Sli bridges are easy to find. However, it says it is crossfirex compatible. Let's just say I pick radeon gpus. The spacing between the gpu slots are inconsistent. The longest ribbon I could find that is crossfirex is only 10 cm. Do you think that's long enough?

    Would you pick a crappier mobo and better graphics, or a better mobo and a descent gpu?
  37. I think you should just get the combo I linked in my last post then figure out the SLI bridge/Crossfire Bridge later. 10cm is about 4 inches (1in = 2.54cm). That should be plenty.

    The mobo in the Micro Center combo is a steal for $90! It really is worth $150 or so. You're not sacrificing graphics by getting it. So good mobo and good GPU. I'd buy that 750W Antec PSU for $70 (scroll up a bunch, not the 650W but the 750W) and the Micro Center combo. Do both soon because they'll sell out.

    Then you can also buy 8GB 1600CL9 DDR3 for about $50 ( has a sale on MWave posted). Or just get $22 (AR) PNY 4GB (2x2GB) 1600CL8 on Newegg.


    CPU: $180 i5-2500K

    Mobo: $90 Gigabyte above

    RAM: $22 4GB above

    Case: $50 Antec 300 Illusion

    Graphics: $205 GTX 560Ti

    PSU: $70 Antec 750W

    HDD: $60 Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB (look on

    DVD: $20 any DVD-RW

    TOTAL: $697
  38. I think what he had is fine. That GA is a good board, but if you want MSI, get the G45 instead, its $10 cheaper on newegg then the g43 and its better. If the GPU is pushing you over, go with the 6870 definitely. The guy above me basically posted the best build you can get. My only changes would be the HD 6870, G45 isntead of the gigabyte (if you dont want the z68 chipset.) and a better case. The antec has crappy cable management. Get a HAF 922 or a storm scout or a li lian k62
  39. There's plenty left in my budget of $697 to get a better case. But that one's the best you'll do for $50.

    I can't say I agree with a 6870 over the GTX 560Ti since it fits in your budget.

    You can get a different mobo & CPU than I recommend, but I doubt someone's gonna post a link of a deal that's nearly as good. I personally would pony up the extra cash for 8GB of RAM--actually, that's a big deal for AutoCAD. I missed that earlier.
  40. If he feels the need to cut like $30 from the build he can go with the 6870. This also lets him get a better mobo though IF he wants it.
  41. gammerx said:
    If he feels the need to cut like $30 from the build he can go with the 6870. This also lets him get a better mobo though IF he wants it.
    I don't get what you're getting at with your motherboard comments. Can you please post a better motherboard for $120? This motherboard is $90 so you'd have to get cheaper than that to make your point.

    And you're right, he could get a 6870 for less money if he wants. Someone found one for $143 a couple days ago. I'd say it's worth it at that price. Although if he really cares about gaming, it's more worth it to just try to match the i5-2500K with graphics cards of equal power--that means planning for two GTX 560Ti's at a bare minimum.
  42. oh i was looking at a different motherboard o.O yeah go with that one!
  43. I am going to agree with dalauder. EVEN if I do not get that mobo somehow, I can still get that mini ATX z68 board that is still better than the board I chose and I get it off of a 40 dollar off deal.

    I like what dalauder said. I want to get the gtx 560 ti, but where did you find one for 205 dollars?

    Also the z68 atx boards do not have case fan 3-pin connections. Do I just rely on my psu to connect those and get molex adapters?

    The antec 300 case is too basic.
    Also, gammerx is right the cable management sucks. I need a case with better airflow.

    Also with the cooler that adds up the cost to $727. That is around the most I can spend. Unless it's necessary to add 20 bucks more somewhere.

    Is there a good 50-70 dollar case somewhere? Is it really necessary to buy a good case?

    Tigersdirect has some nice cases as well, but for a mail in rebate.

    Also, I really care about gaming, but I thought one gtx 560 ti will be really good. I can't afford 2 of them at the same time, until 6 months 1 year after i buy the comp and then I can add the 2nd card in. But by that time, there will be better cards out in the market.

    Anyway I was thinking about this case.

    Just in case I can't go with the gtx 560 ti, I will go with the gtx 560.

    I just found I get 10 dollars off of my first purchase with using a promocode "NEWCUSTOMER10"
  44. Case: A case is for aesthetics and keeping your parts cool. If you don't have air conditioning and live somewhere warm, a case with great airflow is essential. If you have air conditioning, it still matters, but much less so. If you're only doing moderate overclocking (maybe 4.5GHz on the i5-2500K), you won't have too much of heat problems. You do really want a bottom mounted PSU so that hot air can exhaust out the top--where it goes to naturally.

    For $50, you won't beat the Antec 300 Illusion--it is nicer than the Antec 300:

    I don't have air conditioning and live in the tropics. I have an Azza Solano 1000R:
    I got mine for $80.

    Nobody has recommended a case for you because it's really about personal taste. Just go to newegg and sort by price until you see one with a bottom mounted PSU that fits your taste. My friend just picked up the Thermaltake V4 because (along with the V3), it's as cheap as you can go while still having everything--but the cable management kinda sucks.

    $205 GTX 560Ti w/ Lifetime Warranty:

    The GIGABYTE GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 has three fan connectors in addition to the CPU fan:
    My case (and most new ones I think) come with fans that use 4-pin molex plugs.
  45. Here's several alternative cases. All but the last one seem to have improved cable management. Price includes shipping and rebates:

    $36 It's kinda narrow, but hey, it's cheap!:

    $45 If ostentatious is your friend...(note that this case is 9" wide!):

    $50 Aside from being narrow, it offers all the amenities of a subtler higher-end case:

    $55 It doesn't have a top vent, but it's an alternate:

    $57 You lose a little width to the fan and I can't help but think "Sonic the Hedgehog":

    $80 This is the cheapest you'll get for "Full" ATX. I think it assumes you have a modular PSU?:
  46. I just found this nice 560 ti for 180 dollars that I found on

    If it doesn't work I will go with that 205 dollar gtxti.

    I have air conditioning in my house, but my room is the HOTTEST room in the house. All the heat of the home gets transferred to my room. When the A/C is on, my room is cool, once it gets off, it is relatively hot. My room is okay in the day, but at night we turn off the A/C and it gets hot at night a bit.

    I live in Texas, so you can imagine so much humidity and heat in the summer. The summer is the only hot temp season. It gets to about 95-100 degrees fahrenheit in the summer. Other than that, the temps are mild in 70-80 degrees in fall and spring and 50-30 degrees in the winter.

    Do you think there are better 50-70 dollar cases somewhere? I think there are some 60 dollar cases that have a mesh side and front and top as well.

    How is the ventilation and airflow on that thermaltake v4 ?

    I like the rosewill challenger better than the antec one because more features and it looks cooler lol.
  47. I found this 50 dollar Azza case. It has good ventilation on the side, the front is okay, and the top has a big vent as well. Also plenty of room for cable management! The bottom has a good vent as well.
  48. Oh BTW that 55 dollar NZXT case you said that didn't have a top vent, actually does have a top vent if you look closely.

    I really love cases with a front like this and has a side panel view.

    Mostly Antec has cases like that. I was hoping I had enough money for them. That case is nice, but like you said it is 9 inch in width, it might cause trouble for gpu and reading the feedback people said the fans suck or something. If it won't cause problems I would get this case though, it looks nice.

    This v6 isn't bad either.
  49. Newegg business works. You can just leave most of their form blank and sign up. That's a great deal for the GTX 560Ti and I think you should buy that right away. And you pretty much can't get a better GTX 560Ti than the MSI Twin Frozr II. So I'd buy the CPU/mobo, PSU, & graphics all right now based off of deals we've discussed. They will sell out and deals will expire. More RAM deals will come up on Newegg this weekend, so make sure you're signed up for their email list. Don't bother buying all parts at once because you can procure them over the course of the next 5 days or week or so.

    A 9 inch width is great! Most cases are too narrow ($50 Azza with $20 shipping was only like 7.87"). The narrowness will limit the heatsinks you can use. Do not overlook shipping when picking cases. It's free for some and $20 for others.

    You probably looked up my case, it's got a front kinda like that with a big window. But unless it drops to $80, it's probably more expensive than you were planning on going. The Azza Solano 1000/1000R pretty blatantly copies the Antec 900.

    Normally the Thermaltake V6 costs more than that. Nice find.

    The Thermaltake V9 is $70 after rebate:

    Tiger Direct also has cases. I actually found my case on Google Shopping on
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