X58 extreme help

[lt_dan_zsu]

I got a second 560ti yesterday for sli and when I had it plugged my PC wouldn't turn on. So I took the new 560ti out and tried to get it to turn on but nothing would turn on. I checked all the chords to make sure they were plugged. I turn it on again but ut froze within five minutes. Now I can't get anything to boot, all that happens when I turn on the PC is spin the fans. The debug led thing doesn't even turn on. I have tested every slot of ram, I tried resetting the motherboard. Can someone tell me what else I should try. I think it's either the motherboard or power supply. Can someone please help me with what I should test to see what's wrong? thank you

 

[lt_dan_zsu]

it's 700watt

 

[jaquith]

IF you put system back the way it 'was' which I assume worked with only the original 'GTX 560 Ti' and it still fails then I'd look closely at the PSU as the culprit. Most of the PCIe connections are very easy to get loose so I'd unplug/plug back those connections and IF your PSU has a 'fuse' or reset switch then refer to the PSU manual and 'reset' it back to 'normal' operation.

A 700W is a tad undersized for X58 and GTX 560Ti (SLI), and I would recommend an 800W~850W PSU. Also, a PSU that is SLI certified with the proper PCIe leads e.g. 4x 6+2 PCIe power.

Next with the PC in it's original state and the PSU checked -- Clear CMOS, assuming an ASRock X58 Extreme which offers a Clear CMOS button @ the I/O, unplug the PSU for ~5 minutes then hold in the Clear CMOS switch/button for ~5 seconds then plug the PSU in and try to boot. If you boot successfully then boot into the BIOS and Load Optimized defaults plus whatever other changes you've made e.g. XMP, SATA, etc.

Clear CMOS ; see - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdHH9KrceR0

Q - What PSU?

 

[lt_dan_zsu]

I had already tried clearing the CMOS and have tried with one and two graphics cards. I have an OCZ 700w.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341018&Tpk=ocz%20700w
This is the PSU i have.

 

[jaquith]

Most folks do not Clear CMOS properly, the most common error is failing (forgetting) to unplug the PSU...if the PSU is plugged-in you cannot Clear the CMOS since it still has standby power from the PSU. I'd also try the Jumper and leave it there for a minute or two with the PSU unplugged; be careful not to drop the Jumper -- it can be a PITA to fish out.

OCZ have a problem with Coil Whine and sub-par capacitors but that's an annoyance more than a problem.

Q - Have you checked ALL of the connections both on the peripherals AND @ the modular connections?
Q - Have you unplugged the PSU from the wall for several minutes?
Q - Did you force or did you properly release the PCIe lock @ the MOBO?

 

[lt_dan_zsu]

I've done all of those but I am a bit confused on what you are asking with the third question.

 

[jaquith]

If you're confused then my concern is that either the GPU(s) weren't properly seated or you might have damaged the PCIe lock.

At the ends of the PCIe slots there's a White 'lock' to prevent the GPU in this case from falling out. Those locks must be pushed down and then they eject the GPU(s) from the slot and unlock them.

Note the White tabs (locks) at the end of the Blue PCIe slots:

 

[lt_dan_zsu]

well I just tried with a new PSU and it didn't still didn't work

 

[jaquith]

Then I'd breadboard with a minimal configuration and hope the MOBO's not dead.

 

[lt_dan_zsu]

What do you mean?

 

[jaquith]

Take the MOBO outside of its case, unplug everything (all USB headers, etc), use (1) stick of RAM, a known good GPU, connect a known good PSU --- pray --- and try to start the MOBO.

My assumption now is that you yanked or pushed too hard the GPU into the PCIe slot and either micro-cracked the MOBO's PCB or knocked something loose and or created a short or grounding short (if you're lucky) in the process of adding a GPU...

 

[lt_dan_zsu]

well. I think im gonna RMA it if possible because Im anout 90% sure the thing is broken. Are there any tests I could conduct to see if it is in fact broken. I've already cleares the CMOS I guess I could try again to see if I screwed it up. But is there anything else I could try?

 

[jaquith]

There's no way to test a MOBO unless it can post; there are MOBO testers but they're very (very) expensive i.e. a new MOBO is cheaper. Beyond that a good multimeter and working knowledge of testing.

Cannot hurt to Clear the CMOS repeatably, but one correct Clear CMOS is as good as 10.

I am assuming the MOBO is not under some form of warranty. As I recall seeing the ASRock X58 Extreme only had a 1 year warranty...

 

[lt_dan_zsu]

Well if it isn't I guess I'm gonna get a new one

 

[jaquith]

On NewEgg there's slim pickings, the ASUS P6X58-E WS caught my eye @ $173.49 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131715 The alternative with it's Marvell 9182 SATA3 is the Gigabyte G1.Assassin @ $264.98 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128472

You might want a Shop to confirm the MOBO is indeed 'bad' but it won't be for 'free.'

 

[lt_dan_zsu]

I can't spend that kind of money so if I have to I'm going with ebay