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MoBo temp drastically increased with SLI

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August 8, 2012 3:37:42 AM

Here's my system:

- LianLi B10
- Intel SandyBridge Core i7 3960 (3.8GHz, 6 Cores, 12 Threads, 15MB Cache)
- Noctua NH-D14 CPU Heatsink (http://bit.ly/bQbNMy)
- 16 GB DDR3-1600 MHz RAM
- 2xNVIDIA GTX 670 (SLI)
- ASUS P9X79 Pro MoBo
- 90 GB OCZ SSD (OS)
- 1 TB WD (Data) + OCZ SSD (SSD Cache for Mechanical Data Drive via ASUS SSD caching)

I added the SLI this afternoon and my MoBo temp skyrocketed from staying in the 40-50 celsius range into the territory of +65 degrees. I have to assume it's the second GPU causing the heat increase, but the GPUs and CPU are running well below worrisome temperatures.

My thought is that since I moved the first GPU to the top slot and the second (new) GPU to the bottom slot per my MoBo's instructions the GPUs may be interfering with the MoBo's DTS.

My case is a LianLi B10 and I've replaced the front 140mm stock fan with a Noctua 140mm fan and replaced the 120mm intake and exhaust fans with Noctua 120mm fans. However, I'm beginning to think my case may simply not be well suited to exhaust the heat the SLI configuration is producing. That's on theory I have anyway.

I'm curious to hear your thoughts on the matter.

Oh, and I'm using the ASUS Temperature monitor for the MoBo temps. The ASUS Temp Mon lines up pretty well with the values from RealTemp GT, so I trust it.
a b Ĉ ASUS
a c 404 V Motherboard
August 8, 2012 3:53:48 AM

The 2nd card should be at idle when not being needed (like gaming). So, I would think the sudden high temp difference would be the placement of the temp sensor or poor air flow. Is the cable managemant such that it is not blocking air moving from intake to exhaust? Or the 2nd card? Some temp increase is normal simply because there is now another heat producing device in the case.
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August 8, 2012 11:53:15 AM

I apologize for not providing more detail earlier. The MoBo temp idles at around 47 celsius with the second card in the system. When I play Skyrim at Ultra High the MoBo temp rises to 58-59. However, when I play Arkham the temp shoots closer to 70 (which I assume is because of Arkham being PhysX capable and therefore drives the card more?

The primary card does now sit (because of the MoBo SLI requirements) over the MoBo chipset heatsink, so I wonder if its sensor is thrown off?

Honestly, it never occurred to me before, but I don't really know whether the MoBo temp is the ambient case temperature or the temperature of one or more components on the MoBo itself.

As for airflow, there are some cables, but not a nest or anything. There *is* the case's HD cage in front of the front 140mm fan, but 120mm fan on top of that is unobstructed.
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a b Ĉ ASUS
a c 404 V Motherboard
August 8, 2012 3:27:05 PM

As far as I know, the location of the board's temp sensor depends on the motherboard. And I have no idea where yours is located. That is something that would be nice to have indicated in the owner's manual. One trick to locate it (sometimes it is embedded within another chip), is to take a can of compressed air and gently spray areas of the board and watch the temp read-out.
Caution: But be careful not to let the can tip so it sprays liquid. And don't 'freeze' an area.
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August 8, 2012 3:28:21 PM

I did download the ASUS manual for my model and they don't point that out. I was pretty disappointed. Thank you for the suggestion. I do believe you're correct in that a new GPU has added to the ambient temp, but a high-end case from Lian-Li and a MoBo designed for 3-way SLI should be able to cope with 2-way SLI without excess MoBo temps (I would think).
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a b Ĉ ASUS
a c 404 V Motherboard
August 8, 2012 3:53:51 PM

Actually, I don't think 65C -70C when stressing the system gaming is anything to worry about. The 2 cards are then putting more demand on the south bridge. (The sensor may even be located there) Covering the south bridge with the top card probably traps a bit more heat as well. Perhaps you could move the HDD high or low in the drive cage to keep from blocking the most needed air flow, and remove the unused drive caddys.
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Best solution

a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 8, 2012 4:15:28 PM

Well the Lian-Li PC-B10 is a nice 'Desktop' case but not ideal for gaming. I assume the (2) GTX 670's are installed in the correct BLUE PCIe 2.0 x16 slots i.e. Top & Bottom slots.

The 'problem' with the Lian-Li PC-B10 is it's lacking of top-out ventilation. Both Tecmo34 and I are running SLI on ASUS X79's MOBOs. Specifically Tecmo34 has an H100, Corsair 500R, EVGA GTX 670's in SLI and in particular the ASUS P9X79 DELUXE which essentially is the same MOBO. He did not report high temps even @ 4.8GHz.

The Corsair 500R is a purposed 'Gaming Case' ; 240mm side in, 2x120 low-restriction front in, 120mm rear and 2x120 (H100) top-out.

Therefore, try to remove the SIDE panel and compare temps. IF there's a huge difference -- my guessing there will be -- then either rework the case or replace it.
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a b Ĉ ASUS
a c 207 V Motherboard
August 8, 2012 4:47:11 PM

One thing I noticed is you said you were using two temperature monitors ... using two at the same time can throw them off.

I have to agree though, if the card is over one heatsinks, it's probably blocking air flow.

1. Use OCCT and run the GPU test .... it will load the system and do temperature monitoring at the same time....make sure Asus Temp and Realtemp are not loaded.

http://www.ocbase.com/index.php/download

2. As was said above, take off the side panel and use a desk fan to blow air inside the case, if temps return to normal, that's your issue.

3. If a new high air flow case is not in the cards, perhaps one of these will help for spot cooling

http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product3.php?id=MTI2MQ=...

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August 8, 2012 6:06:35 PM

jaquith said:
Well the Lian-Li PC-B10 is a nice 'Desktop' case but not ideal for gaming. I assume the (2) GTX 670's are installed in the correct BLUE PCIe 2.0 x16 slots i.e. Top & Bottom slots.

The 'problem' with the Lian-Li PC-B10 is it's lacking of top-out ventilation. Both Tecmo34 and I are running SLI on ASUS X79's MOBOs. Specifically Tecmo34 has an H100, Corsair 500R, EVGA GTX 670's in SLI and in particular the ASUS P9X79 DELUXE which essentially is the same MOBO. He did not report high temps even @ 4.8GHz.

The Corsair 500R is a purposed 'Gaming Case' ; 240mm side in, 2x120 low-restriction front in, 120mm rear and 2x120 (H100) top-out.

Therefore, try to remove the SIDE panel and compare temps. IF there's a huge difference -- my guessing there will be -- then either rework the case or replace it.


This is what I was leaning towards. Yes, the two cards are in the top and bottom slots. When I had a single card it was in the middle, and not an impediment to front-to-back flow. Okay, sounds like it is time to get a new case. A pity -- it's a great case. I like the simple aesthetic that LianLi retains for their cases that many vendors, including my old favorite, Silverstone, has abandoned. Thank you for your sage advice.
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August 8, 2012 6:16:05 PM

The 500R is actually rather pretty. Thank you.
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August 8, 2012 6:52:28 PM

Best answer selected by akutz.
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 8, 2012 7:02:38 PM

The alternative is to Mod your Lian-Li PC-B10 and cut-out holes, there are plenty of How-To's on YouTube. I've done it with painters tape, a Dremel & Jigsaw, and then some fan dust covers and it looks perfectly fine. Cutting perforated holes isn't anything I'd do myself and instead take to a shop with CNC.

My 500R (added a 120mm @ bottom blowing on GPU):
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August 8, 2012 10:31:02 PM

I ended up reducing the temperature by 10-14 degrees by:

- Turning the hard drive cage around so the cables were all threaded through the back, and provided no impediment to cooling.
- Generally better cable management.

Here are pics: http://imgur.com/a/vcI0U#0.

I'm personally thinking of upgrading to this case, the Corsair Obsidian 650D and getting the H100 cooler (like you have in your picture).
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August 8, 2012 10:51:20 PM

akutz said:
I ended up reducing the temperature by 10-14 degrees by:

- Turning the hard drive cage around so the cables were all threaded through the back, and provided no impediment to cooling.
- Generally better cable management.

Here are pics: http://imgur.com/a/vcI0U#0.

I'm personally thinking of upgrading to this case, the Corsair Obsidian 650D and getting the H100 cooler (like you have in your picture).


you have just 1 fan exhausting hot air???
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August 8, 2012 10:53:42 PM

Believe me, I'd love to have more, but the case isn't exactly spacious. For all the talk of negative airflow, many case manufacturers have way more intakes than exhausts.
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 8, 2012 11:10:49 PM

A good pun - Cool! :sol: 

The 650D is a fine case, Corsair needs to update the USB 3.0 from a 'pass-through' cabling to a 20-pin or you'll need a USB 3.0 Y female to 20-pin adapter; e.g. Silverstone Tek 19 Pin USB3.0 Adapter Cable - http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-USB3-0-Adapter-Ca... or HDE (TM) 2 Port USB 3.0 - http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Port-USB-Female-Cable/dp/B006...

H100 vs NH-D14 - http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1801/12/
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August 9, 2012 12:26:33 AM

I cannot decide between the Obsidian series and the one you recommended. The 200mm on the side of yours is and exhaust, right? I'm leaning towards yours. It's $100 less and that extra $100 will pay for the H100.
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August 9, 2012 12:33:15 AM

akutz said:
I cannot decide between the Obsidian series and the one you recommended. The 200mm on the side of yours is and exhaust, right? I'm leaning towards yours. It's $100 less and that extra $100 will pay for the H100.


if you wanna go water cooling there is better options then the h100 that perform much better for the same price.
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 9, 2012 12:37:59 AM

You can use 200mm side fan either way, by default it's an intake. So you can flip it around and make it an exhaust fan; the side fan is the only fan without a dust filter. Up top I didn't look at the specs and by error I said 240mm vs 200mm.

The only 'downside' is the widow if that's a big deal, for my purposes I preferred the additional cooling.

Here's Tecmo34's white 500R - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/310222-31-hardware-me... I know he bought a 2nd GTX 670...and looking he has the ASUS P9X79 PRO (I thought he had the Deluxe) -- so much for my memory ;) 
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August 9, 2012 3:34:39 AM

cbrunnem said:
if you wanna go water cooling there is better options then the h100 that perform much better for the same price.


You're not allowed to poo-poo and knock without then explaining the other options. So... ?
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August 9, 2012 3:48:06 AM

akutz said:
You're not allowed to poo-poo and knock without then explaining the other options. So... ?


to get real good temps from a h100 you really need to have 4 fans in push pull which will put the cost of a h100 to about $130 which for that price you can get this water cooling kit.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC...
which will run about 10*c cooler then the h100.

OR

you could go with any of these air coolers which are just as good if not better in some cases then the h100
noctua nh-d14
thermalright silver arrow
phanteks tc14pe

which range from $75-90
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August 9, 2012 3:50:57 AM

cbrunnem said:
to get real good temps from a h100 you really need to have 4 fans in push pull which will put the cost of a h100 to about $130 which for that price you can get this water cooling kit.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC...
which will run about 10*c cooler then the h100.

OR

you could go with any of these air coolers which are just as good if not better in some cases then the h100
noctua nh-d14
thermalright silver arrow
phanteks tc14pe

which range from $75-90


I have the Noctua NH-D14. Works great. But it's super large. You asked why I don't have additional fans? Have you seen a D14? It takes up the entire case.
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August 9, 2012 11:56:09 AM

akutz said:
I have the Noctua NH-D14. Works great. But it's super large. You asked why I don't have additional fans? Have you seen a D14? It takes up the entire case.


i have a nh-d14 i just dont use it lol. its a good size beast but gets the job down is quiter and cheaper then the h100.
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August 9, 2012 12:01:29 PM

Again though, as long as I'm buying a new case for better airflow, I'm interested in upgrading to water-cooling (even if it *is* a lateral upgrade) in part due to to how much smaller the block is than the D14. I have a few questions/concerns:

- The recommended cases, 500R & 650D, both seem to lack negative airflow. The top fans would likely be dedicated to the radiator. Do those double as case exhaust fans? I know they are blowing out across the radiator, but how much does the radiator impede their usefulness as general exhaust fans?

- What is push/pull?

- The H100 seems like a good deal, but it has gotten several bad reviews on NewEgg due to its noise levels or failed pumps. I've seen the Thermaltake 2.0 Water Extreme recommended (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1443&ID=21...). What do people think of this?

- I'm new to water cooling, and so I'm interested in a contained/all-in-one solution, at least for my first foray. I understand there may be better solutions, but if you recommend one, please acknowledge its level of installation difficulty.

Thanks!
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August 9, 2012 12:46:50 PM

Also, how much height does the radiator enclosure have in the 500R? It seems like it is designed for a slim radiator.

Oh, and I googled push pull. Seems like a good way to put my extra Noctua 120s to use, but only if I can mount fans to both sides of the radiator.
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 9, 2012 2:27:45 PM

First, the 500R cannot fit a push-pull unless you remove the top grill which IMO looks bad. Push-Pull is having in the examples of an H100 or WATER2.0 Performer 4-fans, the H100 can control up to 4-fans but the WATER2.0 Performer is limited to two fans without further splitters.

Neither the 500R or 650D are ideal cases for full component water cooling, but the 800D is very good candidate. My daughter's full water gaming rig is built on a 850D case, and in her instance using Koolance components and another good option is EK. Many serious builds are off the Caselabs T10 or Mountain Mods U2-UFO. Both the 650D and 800D need some updated components (SATA/USB 3.0).

The next step up from a H100 is one of many kits (which I don't recommend), or best Koolance or EK components. Your case selection determines your water cooling future -- short of some external exchanger.

Reviews, unless they are verified owners they can be Trolls or simply they're noobs bitching because of their own failures.

H100 and Corsair - My personal experience with Corsair has been phenomenal, and as a hobby system builder yep I've had bad components over the years from just about everyone. The best two companies for RMA's are Corsair & EVGA. MOBO companies are fine BUT they can take forever unless you can get a cross-ship.

H100 is what it is, it's a glorified HSF that apparently some folks are too nooby to figure-out how to properly connect the unit. Duh the Molex must be plugged into the PSU, the H100 head unit must be plugged into the MOBO's CPU_HEADER and the 2 or 4 cooling fans must be plugged into the H100 head unit, and you must use the 4 LGA 2011 standoff's ==|=== (short to built-in front plate) and the 4 nuts securing the H100 head unit firmly to the CPU. The TIM does fully cover the CPU including the LGA 2011's CPU, and the stock TIM is pretty damn good; otherwise use MX-4. To me the H100 is the simplest HSF to assemble, and if you can install the NH-D14 then the H100 is a no brainer.

I keep my unit with the Default middle setting and I've tried Low & High, the cooling with a SB-E @ 4.8GHz is only slightly better @ High. Yep, it can be noisy @ High --- sooo don't use High <or> get different exchanger (static pressure) fans. Yep, a case fan is a bad pressure fan. Corsair also Mfg's Air Series SP120 fans (SP = static pressure), and so do other companies.

--

Cooling with low noise - It's simple to cool but still have ultra low noise, whip out the checkbook and everything overkill: Double the exchanger area, temperature probes, top notch fan controller unit (programmable), fully blocked (CPU, GPU and MOBO (VRM & Chipset), large spacious case (Caselabs T10), oversized good PSU(s) (Gold or Platinum), expensive fans, and duh 100% custom loop or loops.
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August 9, 2012 2:39:33 PM

jaquith said:
First, the 500R cannot fit a push-pull unless you remove the top grill which IMO looks bad. Push-Pull is having in the examples of an H100 or WATER2.0 Performer 4-fans, the H100 can control up to 4-fans but the WATER2.0 Performer is limited to two fans without further splitters.

Neither the 500R or 650D are ideal cases for full component water cooling, but the 800D is very good candidate. My daughter's full water gaming rig is built on a 850D case, and in her instance using Koolance components and another good option is EK. Many serious builds are off the Caselabs T10 or Mountain Mods U2-UFO. Both the 650D and 800D need some updated components (SATA/USB 3.0).

The next step up from a H100 is one of many kits (which I don't recommend), or best Koolance or EK components. Your case selection determines your water cooling future -- short of some external exchanger.

Reviews, unless they are verified owners they can be Trolls or simply they're noobs bitching because of their own failures.

H100 and Corsair - My personal experience with Corsair has been phenomenal, and as a hobby system builder yep I've had bad components over the years from just about everyone. The best two companies for RMA's are Corsair & EVGA. MOBO companies are fine BUT they can take forever unless you can get a cross-ship.

H100 is what it is, it's a glorified HSF that apparently some folks are too nooby to figure-out how to properly connect the unit. Duh the Molex must be plugged into the PSU, the H100 head unit must be plugged into the MOBO's CPU_HEADER and the 2 or 4 cooling fans must be plugged into the H100 head unit, and you must use the 4 LGA 2011 standoff's ==|=== (short to built-in front plate) and the 4 nuts securing the H100 head unit firmly to the CPU. The TIM does fully cover the CPU including the LGA 2011's CPU, and the stock TIM is pretty damn good; otherwise use MX-4. To me the H100 is the simplest HSF to assemble, and if you can install the NH-D14 then the H100 is a no brainer.

I keep my unit with the Default middle setting and I've tried Low & High, the cooling with a SB-E @ 4.8GHz is only slightly better @ High. Yep, it can be noisy @ High --- sooo don't use High <or> get different exchanger (static pressure) fans. Yep, a case fan is a bad pressure fan. Corsair also Mfg's Air Series SP120 fans (SP = static pressure), and so do other companies.

--

Cooling with low noise - It's simple to cool but still have ultra low noise, whip out the checkbook and everything overkill: Double the exchanger area, temperature probes, top notch fan controller unit (programmable), fully blocked (CPU, GPU and MOBO (VRM & Chipset), large spacious case (Caselabs T10), oversized good PSU(s) (Gold or Platinum), expensive fans, and duh 100% custom loop or loops.


So...

- I shouldn't go with the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit? It seems like you're saying if I'm thinking of this I should forgo kits and look at individual components?

- Are you saying Noctua fans don't make for good rad fans? I have several of the Noctua PWM 120s, and I'd love to use them.

- I'm really torn between the 650d and 500r. Any pros/cons you want to share?

- Oh the 800d. If only :) 
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 9, 2012 3:03:07 PM

Correct the XSPC is a glorified H100 but 10K:1 chance of a leak. Never said Noctua fans were bad, personally my feeling on them is shallow -- fugly. They need to make a all black version and they'd sell like 'hotcakes.'

The 650D con is the USB 3.0 and to a degree the top setup for a 2x120. The 500R con is the PITA access to the front filter, you need to fully remove the full front panel without snapping-off a connecting pin(s), and though not a con of such I wish the roof was a tad taller for a push/pull to fit.

There's NO perfect anything the question is value, and the 500R's value is very high.

H100 @ medium (core ranges 68C~72C)/ambient 25C-26C* with i7-3930K 4.8GHz @ 1.40v - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2261309

* the ambient started @ 22C and after a series of tests +4C.
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 9, 2012 3:09:18 PM

Folks always show the vanity pictures, here's the top and back panel (I put forth very little effort):
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August 9, 2012 3:20:22 PM

Any thoughts regarding the Thermaltake 2.0 Water Extreme vs. the H100? They're so close in price, and the TT seems to be of a tad higher build quality.

(and FWIW, you've sold me on the 650r -- it's inexpensive enough that I won't feel bad about upgrading to a 800 later when I have time to build a proper cooling system with GPU blocks in addition to the CPU cooler)
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 9, 2012 3:36:03 PM

My thoughts, I know the H100 fits and neither company Mfg's the units.

Confused 650D or 500R??
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August 9, 2012 3:38:50 PM

HAHA! Typo fail. The 500R is what I meant :)  Yeah, I'm curious about if it fits or not myself. If only Fry's carried both I could go see for myself.
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August 9, 2012 3:51:39 PM

Also, can you confirm something for me? The H100 appears to use cheap, plastic tubing. Or does it just look that way? Is the tubing actually rubber with a design for flexibility?
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 9, 2012 4:06:38 PM

Exchanger's:

H100 122mm x 275mm x 27mm ; fans 120mm x 120mm x 25mm
Water 2.0 Extreme 270 x 120 x 38.3 mm ; fans 120mm x 120mm x 25mm

Actual checking:
So the TT is +11.3mm BUT the 500R has a max of 30mm less 2-3mm (cross supports) so for 100% the Water 2.0 Extreme will NOT fit in the top, the H100 has 1-2mm clearance, and eyeballing on my Sabertooth X79 the fans are <5mm~7mm from hitting the VRM and 8-pin power. So even the H100 requires a 'shoe horn' to fit.

Bottom-line, get the H100 with a 500R.
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August 9, 2012 4:08:04 PM

You, sir, are awesome.

On a side note, I can't wait until my 17mos. old daughter is old enough that I can justify building her a rig :) 
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August 9, 2012 4:11:34 PM

Ah. So it's plastic on top of rubber. Very cool.
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 9, 2012 4:12:11 PM

akutz said:
Also, can you confirm something for me? The H100 appears to use cheap, plastic tubing. Or does it just look that way? Is the tubing actually rubber with a design for flexibility?

Take the Water 2.0 Extreme rubber tubing and then cover (add) the 'cheap plastic tubing' for added protection to prevent cutting and/or kinking.
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 9, 2012 4:26:20 PM

The H100 is IMO designed very well, the core parts between the two are essentially the same but the H100 adds items like a 4 fan controller for ANY fans (3 or 4 pin) plus fan profiles, 'armor' to the tubing, normalized sizing so it fits in more cases, and the Molex ensures the pump receives full power with a side benefit of not taking it from the MOBO <or> requiring you to set the BIOS so the FAN_HEADER get full power (problem with any pump that uses a header).

Keep in mind the fans are 100% regulated to the CPU's temps so the fans are NOT running 100% with reduced load. The H100 has a single pin to the CPU_FAN header to regulate the fan speeds.

It's a well designed, for what it is, cooling solution.
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August 9, 2012 9:13:47 PM

2125850,28,388864 said:
Correct the XSPC is a glorified H100 but 10K:1 chance of a leak. Never said Noctua fans were bad, personally my feeling on them is shallow -- fugly. They need to make a all black version and they'd sell like 'hotcakes.'

The 650D con is the USB 3.0 and to a degree the top setup for a 2x120. The 500R con is the PITA access to the front filter, you need to fully remove the full front panel without snapping-off a connecting pin(s), and though not a con of such I wish the roof was a tad taller for a push/pull to fit.

There's NO perfect anything the question is value, and the 500R's value is very high.

H100 @ medium (core ranges 68C~72C)/ambient 25C-26C* with i7-3930K 4.8GHz @ 1.40v - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2261309

WOW. you really just said that the XSPC kits are a glorified h100? wow cant believe that. on top of the fact that the h100 is a closed system and no way to upgrade it if has a sub par water block compared to the rasa block.

i have had personal experience with a nh-d14 which the general consensus is that its on par with the h100 and when i went from the nh-d14 to a real non fisher price water cooling setup i had 10*c lower load temps.

plus your temps are cause you have a freak of nature chip that doesnt require the normal amounts of voltage to maintain a 4.8 ghz OC.

btw the rs240 is basically the same size radiator but 8mm thicker but with it you dont need 4 fans to get good performance. someone sounds extremely baised.
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a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
a c 716 V Motherboard
August 9, 2012 10:26:22 PM

cbrunnem said:
WOW. you really just said that the XSPC kits are a glorified h100? wow cant believe that. on top of the fact that the h100 is a closed system and no way to upgrade it if has a sub par water block compared to the rasa block.

i have had personal experience with a nh-d14 which the general consensus is that its on par with the h100 and when i went from the nh-d14 to a real non fisher price water cooling setup i had 10*c lower load temps.

plus your temps are cause you have a freak of nature chip that doesnt require the normal amounts of voltage to maintain a 4.8 ghz OC.

btw the rs240 is basically the same size radiator but 8mm thicker but with it you dont need 4 fans to get good performance. someone sounds extremely baised.

Yes believe it, to me the 240 XSPC kits are a glorified H100 with strings. The all-in-one pump is nothing I'd care to use in a fully blocked system. Further, the exchanger on the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 is 121x35x277mm so at least on the 500R it won't fit on the top but it may fit above the MOBO (inside the case). I'd make a mock-up first before buying.

Fact, the H100 is about -4C~-6C or cooler than the NH-D14 but as the OC goes higher on the i7-3930K the H100 pulls further ahead; see link above. So far I have not said anything negatively against the NH-D14. My solo issues with the NH-D14 are its' size which causes countless compatibility issues and it's overall maintenance. The NH-D14 collects dust very easily and cleaning it properly often it is simpler just to remove it.

Maintenance brings me back to the XSPC, it or any non-sealed unit/custom loop must cleaned and drained every 6 months to a year depending on the coolant used. Any longer and you risk damaging blocks, pumps, not to mention pitting and slime.

Maintenance on an H100 is zip, and cleaning the H100 is a couple sucks of the vacuum. Pull is less efficient but easier to clean.

Also, I don't have a freak of nature SB-E, I simply know how to OC. I don't need to read forum data and mindlessly copy someone else's OC.

Then you must feel my CPU is a super-freak: i7-3930K 4.8GHz @ 1.36v - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2320509
Next, just screwing around I set a validated world record 3DMark11 with vanilla SLI GTX 560's - http://www.3dmark.com/compare/3dm11/2647641/3dm11/27994... last someone told me I'm down to 5th which is probably due to newer driver, but I really don't care...


I am not the only source of data, and I try to look at the whole kitten kaboodle. If you're going to make a loop then do it right otherwise do it simple.

BTW - I don't care to argue.
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