Help me find a PSU PLZ!!

[vsova2]

Hi, so I got this motherboard, and notice it has 24+8pin, planning to run 2 video cards in the future. Also I have these RAM . Help me find a good power supply deal while good performance? Willing to spend up to 50 or 55 dollars on the power supply.

 

[amuffin]

Will you be willing to do rebates? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341048 and an extra $10 off

 

[vsova2]

but my motherboard has 24+8pin, and the power supply u've linked me to has 20+4pin...

 

[kajabla]

No. Mobo power plugs are universal. That PSU has a 20+4 pin (the 24) and a 4+4 pin (the 8).

 

[vsova2]

oh, didnt rly know that, but I was suspecting it a little bit that I shouldnt rly worry about the pin count. but wat power supply would u recommend me? thanx for the tip btw

 

[kajabla]

What cards and CPU are you running/going to run?

 

[Raiddinn]

No matter how you slice it, a $50 PSU probably isn't going to cut it in most any 2 x Video Card setups.

At $1 per 10w for quality PSUs that only gives you 500w which is not a lot of juice for even old model GPUs in SLI or Crossfire.

If we are talking SLI or Crossfired new video cards, there is even less excuse to spend $50 on a PSU. $85 would be about the minimum I would expect to pay for such setups (~850w).

Also, the motherboard connectors aren't completely universal, but any quality PSU will have the right cord setup for any newish motherboard.

If $50 - $55 is all you are spending on a PSU, then get one big video card instead of either 2 big ones or two small ones.

 

[kajabla]

Hey, 700W will do fine for mid-end SLI setups. Anyway, this is all speculation until we know what the cards are.

 

[amuffin]

My psu costed $50 and im running 560ti's in sli perfectly fine

 

[kajabla]

And how long's it been? These recommendations aren't a rule; they're just statistics. Cheap PSUs are more likely to fail, but often they'll pull through. Most just consider it too risky to bother saving a little cash.

 

[allbaitron]

p8p67 motherboard

 

[Raiddinn]

It is less of a matter of IF a PSU will fail, but more about WHEN the PSU will fail.

PSU internals get worse and worse at delivering the same power every minute they are used and they atrophy even unused as mechanical things do.

The power a PSU can put out is reduced by an amount that is hard to measure on a day to day basis, but on a year over year basis it is much easier to measure.

Additionally, the wattage potential matters.

If you need the whole 650 and you buy a 650, it may work on day 1, but it may get bad enough to no longer work in year 2, whereas if you buy a 1000 it will work on day 1 and probably will not have eroded below 650 in years 2, 3, or 4 either.

In the past, pretty wattage numbers used to impress me when I thought 700 really meant 700 and not 350 for sucky brands. A lot of times those 700s are bought when only 250 - 300 are commonly used and, as was in my case, the "700s" can't even do 250ish after a year or two.

Since then I have learned not to go cheapy on PSUs and I would implore others to take such things into consideration as well.

That being said, If someone is able to get a $90 PSU for $50 because of deals and rebates, there isn't anything I can do to control that. For these purposes, those still count as $90 PSUs instead of $50 PSUs.