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First gaming build $1800

Hi im a noob to building gaming PCs and need some help with my specs

i7 2600k
Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3P-B3 MB
BENQ E2420HD 24.0"W,
Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL8 Vengeance Performance RAM
Gigabyte GF GTX 560Ti GV-N560SO-1GI 1GB 256-bit DDR5 1000/4580MHz PCI-E 2.0
G.Skill 2.5" Solid State Drive (SSD) 60GB [PHOENIX PRO] FM-25S2S-60GBP2
LG GH22NS50 DVD/CD Writer
Thermaltake V9 BlacX Edition (USB3 & 2x HDD Docks)
Antec "Quattro 1000" - 1000W TruePower Quattro, 80 PLUS Bronze Certified, 80mm cooling fan, Cable Management, 4 x PCI-E, 8 x SATA,
3.5" SEAGATE 1TB (ST31000524AS, SATA III 6Gb/s , 7200RPM, 32MB CACHE)

I am planning on buying my parts from http://www.9289.com.au/


does anyone know any problems that will occur with my specs?
or have any suggestions to improve my build?

thanks, Owen
49 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about first gaming build 1800
  1. First thing I see is that your PSU is much more powerful than you need. Your build would be fine with 650W if you want to leave room for adding a second card and doing SLI, I would go up to 850W. On your site it looks like your best options are the Corsair PSUs.

    I would also check newegg.com, particularly on your graphics cards and see what shipping will cost. You may actually save some money by getting a part or two from newegg.
  2. Do you plan on overclocking? SLI?

    I would say max get the hx/ax 850 from corsair, this lets you SLI later down the road if needed and it is modular so you can keep it clean!

    Lower down to i5-2500k, save some $

    Samsung spinpoint f3 instead of the seagate

    I think the OCZ vertex is the best line of SSDs? So go with that for a boot drive.

    Get an aftermarket heatsink/watercooling. For air get the Noctua one or pretty much anyone you want :p
  3. Even two GTX 570s can be powered by a 750 watt unit with plenty of room to spare for overclocking. An i7-2600k OC'd to 4.0GHz with two GTX 570s pulls around 550 watts from the wall. At 90% PSU efficiency, the PSU is outputting about 495 watts.

    I'd stay away from anything OCZ...they are the fastest SSDs, but they are also the most unreliable. I think the best SSD out there right now is the Crucial M4. The 64GB version will hold the OS, some apps, and a game or two. The 128GB version is $100 more.
  4. thanks so much for all the replies and suggestions :)

    if i buy off newegg it may be more expensive because i have to post to Australia.
    I am buying a large power supply because i plan to have SLI cards in the future, and also possibly overclock.

    would my mobo and case have enough space for two cards in SLI?
  5. should i buy 1866 corsair vengance instead?
  6. ok, my revised specs are:
    i7 2600k
    Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3P-B3 MB
    ASUS VE258Q black 25"
    corsair vengance 8GB (2x4GB) 1866
    Gigabyte GTX560 ti SOC
    OCZ vertex 3 60gb
    ASUS 24x DVD burner
    thermaltake v9 blacx flex edition
    silverstone OP1000-p 1000W
    samsung spinpoint f3

    and im ordering off newegg for $1563.9US not including postage (will have to add postage and convert $ to AUS)
  7. ok, plan changed again. newegg doesnt post to Australia :(

    i am going with the i7 because i use allot of heavily threaded programs
    i was planning to go with OCZ because of the faster transfer rates
    what mhz ram should i be using? could i use 2200 or 1800mhz ram?
  8. nd_hunter said:
    Even two GTX 570s can be powered by a 750 watt unit with plenty of room to spare for overclocking. An i7-2600k OC'd to 4.0GHz with two GTX 570s pulls around 550 watts from the wall. At 90% PSU efficiency, the PSU is outputting about 495 watts.

    I'd stay away from anything OCZ...they are the fastest SSDs, but they are also the most unreliable. I think the best SSD out there right now is the Crucial M4. The 64GB version will hold the OS, some apps, and a game or two. The 128GB version is $100 more.



    Let's say a PSU is 550w with a 90% efficiency factor. The PSU has an output of 550w not 550w - 10%. That 10% is it's power loss but the output is what it says, not minus 10%.

    So a 500w PSU is a 500W output power PSU but consumes 10% more from the wall to give those rated watts. That energy is lost during conversion, not thru the cables that receive 500w of power. There can be a 500w 70%(1) or 90%(2) efficiency PSU, that means 1 and 2 can sustain 500w for the PC to consume total power over all voltages but one sucks more power from the wall and the other sucks less power from the wall to be able to output 500w.
  9. ionut19 said:
    Let's say a PSU is 550w with a 90% efficiency factor. The PSU has an output of 550w not 550w - 10%. That 10% is it's power loss but the output is what it says, not minus 10%.

    So a 500w PSU is a 500W output power PSU but consumes 10% more from the wall to give those rated watts. That energy is lost during conversion, not thru the cables that receive 500w of power. There can be a 500w 70%(1) or 90%(2) efficiency PSU, that means 1 and 2 can sustain 500w for the PC to consume total power over all voltages but one sucks more power from the wall and the other sucks less power from the wall to be able to output 500w.


    I wasn't talking about the rated output of the PSU. You are correct; 550w is 550w. I was talking about the reading at the wall socket through a Kill-A-Watt meter. Converted to the efficiency rating of the PSU means at that time the PSU was outputting just under 500 watts. I was using that as an example to explain that the OP doesn't need such a large PSU.

    -----

    To the OP:

    1. The PSU you have listed is major overkill. Save some money and get a 750 watt unit, which will give you tons of room to overclock the CPU and overclock two GTX 560 Ti.

    2. You won't notice the difference in transfer rates of the OCZ drive and the Crucial M4 drive in actual useage. What you will notice is when your computer continually BSODs because you bought an unreliable drive. Go with the Crucial M4.

    3. Get an 8GB 1600MHz C9 1.5v memory kit. Two sticks, 4GB each. The faster speeds might seem impressive on paper but will transfer to only about a 1-2% increase in performance. Is that worth the extra cost?
  10. Buy CL8 1600Mhz at 1.5 or 1.6 volts or at 1866Mhz. There are even CL7 at that speeds, CL9 is a little slower. The faster the memory, the more FPS you get in games. Someone posted a link on the forum a wile ago but can't seem to find it or to search Google.

    Depending on the game. Please read this before deciding: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/memory/display/sandy-bridge-ddr3_7.html#sect0 .

    "As we can see, gamers should really take memory speed into consideration. Of course, the situation is different in different games, but all in all one 266-MHz increment increase in the memory frequency produces about 2% gain in fps rate in nominal mode and about 3-4% in a system with an overclocked processor. Therefore, choosing the right memory for a gaming computer should be taken seriously enough. Slow DDR3 SDRAM modules may turn into a system bottleneck that will prevent the processor and graphics card from unveiling their true potential. Especially, since there are some games (in our case it is F1 2010), where you can gain a fps or two by simply playing around with memory timings. Not to mention a significant performance boost resulting from the increase in the memory frequency."

    (Read the entire article.)

    Also as the end result 1600Mhz is the best price/performance ratio.
  11. ionut19 said:
    Buy CL8 1600Mhz at 1.5 or 1.6 volts or at 1866Mhz. There are even CL7 at that speeds, CL9 is a little slower. The faster the memory, the more FPS you get in games. Someone posted a link on the forum a wile ago but can't seem to find it or to search Google.

    Depending on the game. Please read this before deciding: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/memory/display/sandy-bridge-ddr3_7.html#sect0 .

    "As we can see, gamers should really take memory speed into consideration. Of course, the situation is different in different games, but all in all one 266-MHz increment increase in the memory frequency produces about 2% gain in fps rate in nominal mode and about 3-4% in a system with an overclocked processor. Therefore, choosing the right memory for a gaming computer should be taken seriously enough. Slow DDR3 SDRAM modules may turn into a system bottleneck that will prevent the processor and graphics card from unveiling their true potential. Especially, since there are some games (in our case it is F1 2010), where you can gain a fps or two by simply playing around with memory timings. Not to mention a significant performance boost resulting from the increase in the memory frequency."

    (Read the entire article.)

    Also as the end result 1600Mhz is the best price/performance ratio.



    I've read that article and while I found it informative, I think it fails to point out several points. There is a point in a computer build where you hit the rule of diminished returns. This is when any more money spent returns a very slight performance increase. F1 for example: if you are already getting 100 fps, what difference is 3 or 4 more fps buy purchasing memory that is $40 more expensive? I can't tell the difference between 30 fps and 40 fps. This doesn't just apply to memory. Let's say the person is contemplating buying a GTX 570 or GTX 580. Sure, the 580 will get you 10% better performance, but is it worth paying $120 more? Before long, a person who wants the best possible rig is dishing out $3000+ for something that nets them 20 more fps than a rig that costs $1300. There is a time and place to spend that much...gaming on a 30" 2560x1600 display or Eyefinity or Surround or even 3D gaming, for example, but not an a rig to play games at 1080p.
  12. Best answer
    Hi Mate.

    With that budget I'd be wanting SLI 560Tis from the start at least. If your PC is for gaming, then spend it where it counts... your GPU setup. Without skimping on the rest ofcourse :) You can have the prettiest box in the world with frily bits hanging off your RAM etc but in a couple of weeks all you'll care about is what is happening on the screen.

    Compare prices on:

    http://pccasegear.com/

    http://www.scorptec.com.au/

    And if you have one near you www.msy.com.au. Just download their pdf pricelist and give them a call to check stock levels etc. You can save some real $ by shopping here and cut down on your shipping. Even getting the case from them will reduce the charge by a fair bit.

    CoolerMaster CM 690 II Advanced
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13772

    Intel Core i5 2500K
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16531

    2 x ASUS GTX 560 Ti DirectCU II Overclocked 1GB
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16652

    CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ CPU Cooler
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12544

    Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12711

    G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL (2x4GB) DDR3
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16510

    ASUS P8P67 PRO Motherboard B3
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16808

    Samsung SATA DVDRW Drive
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17348

    Corsair TX-850 V2 Power Supply
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17210

    Total = $1417AUD

    Add an SSD later if you want

    Crucial M4 SSD 64GB - (64GB is a bit lame bit 128Gb is geting pricey)
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=17684

    Screens. Depends how much you want to spend. If you've got $1800 to spend... I wouldn't be getting less than the models below (look for 2ms if you can) Ideally investing more on a nice screen is money well spent.

    Samsung BX2450
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=15287

    ASUS VS248H
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=558_1212&products_id=17297
  13. will pccasegear.com post to Australia though?
  14. Yep. They are an Australian based company. Make a wish list and enter your postcode and it will even show your a shipping price.

    Also might want to have a look on:

    http://www.mwave.com.au/ (sorry forgot about them in original post. They are good too)

    Also missed in your original post you are looking at z68 platform. The board you listed is a good 1. This one is also good and a little less $... unfortunately not available to later this month:

    Gigabyte GA-Z68A-D3H-B3 Motherboard
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=138_711_1183&products_id=17618
  15. thanks for your help formata
    the ram you listed is cl9, would that cause a bottleneck in my system?
  16. 8gb of ram is plenty for me, so i dont need all 4 slots
    would cl9 ram cause any lag while gaming? would cl7 have much advantage? (besides a few fps when benchmarking)
  17. btw, i know nothing about monitors and resolution
    would this be decent: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=558_1212&products_id=16708
    i need a monitor for $200AUS
  18. would 4gb of ram be enough for me? i can afford to buy 2x2gb worth of good quality ram
  19. The screen listed is solid choice for $200. At that price you can't really expect too much. But it is 2ms and I'd take it over the AOC, BenQ and LG ones that are at a similar size and pricepoint that are all 5ms.

    Realistically for gaming 4GB of ram is plenty. The thing is, 8GB is only marginally more price wise. CL9 Memory wont bottleneck your system (as mentioned above.) CL8, CL7 are better, but won't give you any significant FPS boost in gaming. I'd be putting that money in other areas. The clearance of the heat spreaders on your memory with your CPU Cooler can be an issue. With the Mobo listed above and Hyper 212+ (directing air horizontally) you could put any sized memory there as it doesn't infringe on the slots at all.
  20. ok, once again thanks for answering my annoying noob questions

    i am looking at Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3P-B3 for motherboard, this is $199
    would that be fast enough or would it be the weakest component?
  21. Not all all. I think that board is a good buy. But really, check down the features list to see if its got everything you need. Will you ever go more than 2 GPU's ? Compare it with the more expensive models:

    http://www.gigabyte.com/products/comparison/list.aspx?ck=2&pids=3849,3848,3847

    By 'fast enough' I guess you are referring to the PCI Express x16 Slots running at x8 when multiple GPUs are installed. Obviously having both your cards running at x16 is better, but are you willing to fork the extra $ for that setup? Depending on where you read, the impact this has on GPU performance and FPS in turn is a factor... but not a deal breaker.

    It's got a 3 year warranty which is always reassuring :)
  22. I was only planning to have one graphics card to start with, would i have to go for the Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD5-B3 to have to gpus at 16x?
    would the benefit be with the extra $100?
  23. or would i have to go up to ud7?
  24. like, am i going to notice any visual difference between x8 and x16, ive heard its about a 8-10% difference
  25. Many sites suggest that even at 1920x1080 its less than 5%

    Does the UD7 support x16/x16? I saw World War 3 almost take place about 4 months ago on this very question. I think Gigabyte are deliberately vague and confusing about it in their product description.

    Anyone please step in and correct me here.... the answer is... sort of ;)

    The board does have 2 PCI Express x16 slots, however the 1155 platform doesn't natively support x16/x16. So the good people at Gigabyte added the NF200 PCI-E Bridge which takes the 16 lanes and turns them into 32 (x16/x16).

    I thought this article explained it pretty well (Scroll to SLI Performance w/ NF200.)

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?264847-Ultimate-Sandy-Bridge-OC-Guide-P67A-UD7-Performance-Review

    As stated previously. It's not a deal breaker. With the money spent on that board you would be looking a step in your GPU setup anyhow!
  26. Formata said:
    Many sites suggest that even at 1920x1080 its less than 5%

    Does the UD7 support x16/x16? I saw World War 3 almost take place about 4 months ago on this very question. I think Gigabyte are deliberately vague and confusing about it in their product description.

    Anyone please step in and correct me here.... the answer is... sort of ;)

    The board does have 2 PCI Express x16 slots, however the 1155 platform doesn't natively support x16/x16. So the good people at Gigabyte added the NF200 PCI-E Bridge which takes the 16 lanes and turns them into 32 (x16/x16).

    I thought this article explained it pretty well (Scroll to SLI Performance w/ NF200.)

    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?264847-Ultimate-Sandy-Bridge-OC-Guide-P67A-UD7-Performance-Review

    As stated previously. It's not a deal breaker. With the money spent on that board you would be looking a step in your GPU setup anyhow!


    Tom's did a review on x16/x16 (they used an ASUS P8P67 WS Revolution) and found while the NF200 chip does add PCI lanes, it also add latency, so the net gain is actually more like 1-3%, depending on the GPU and resolution. That's not worth spending $180US more for a board (Z68X-UD7 vs. Z68X-UD3P).

    EDIT: Here's the link to that article.
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/p67-gaming-3-way-sli-three-card-crossfire,2910.html
  27. could you guys recomend any cases for under $150 with front pannel 3.0 support?
    im thinking to get the thermaltake v9 blacx atm.
  28. what would be better between these monitors? btw power consumption is of no concern to me
    the asus one isnt in stock yet, thats the only reason why i would consider the benq one

    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=558_1212&products_id=12637

    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=558_1212&products_id=16708
  29. Feature - wise... those screens are pretty similar. I wouldn't get too excited about the Asus having an apparently much better contrast ratio...all manufacturers have their own systems/ standards that don't really add up from one to the other. I would get the Asus. It has a better bezel for a multi-screen setup down the track :) Also 3 year warranty. Really wouldn't expect a world of difference between the 2... hey it's a $200 screen.

    I wouldn't choose a case based on being able to connect USB3 from the front. Have a look at the pics in your link. See that cable coming out the back grommet going into the USB3 port on the Mobo at the back. Ewwww! Some Mobos come with a connector allowing you to mount a USB3 plate to the front, but for a case you want solid build quality and good cooling.

    My preferred cases in that price range:

    CM 690 II Advanced - Has many of the features of cases in a higher price range
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_31&products_id=13772

    HAF 922 Case - Very popular choice for a reason
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_31&products_id=11652

    Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 Case - Slightly more $
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_733&products_id=16228

    Silverstone Raven RV03 - Just love this case... weird to build in though with 90 degree mobo mounting - more $ again
    http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_608&products_id=17240
  30. what about thermal compound? which one should i buy?
  31. will my i7 come with thermal compound? im not actually buying an aftermarket heatsink, and im staying with the i7 stock heatsink that comes with it
  32. Yep. There is thermal paste on the stock intel cooler. $30 for a Hyper212+ is a good investment and easily drops your CPU temps 15-20 degrees but its your call ofcourse.
  33. If you do need thermal compound, look at Shin Etsu instead of AS5. No burn in and it's one of the best available, cheaper than AS5 too.
  34. ok, these are my final specs and im ordering today:

    i7 2600k
    Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3P-B3
    ASUS VE247H
    G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3
    Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Ti SOC 1GB
    crucial m4 64gb
    Samsung SH-222AB
    CoolerMaster HAF 922 Case
    Corsair TX-850 V2
    Seagate Barracuda 1TB ST31000524AS

    any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and also anyone who can confirm that "pccasegear.com" is a real organisation
  35. ok and this is my final choice for case: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_608&products_id=17240
    would there be any complications with 90 degree mobo mounting?
  36. hahahahahaha, i guess ill be enjoying this case then :P i was just wondering if that rotation would cause any hardware problems
  37. would my power supply (printed above) have long enough cables?
  38. and will i need a modular one?
  39. nah, im talking about Corsair TX-850 V2
  40. someone said that my psu was overkill and i would never use 1000w
  41. kk, thanks for the advice, im ordering now
  42. would it be worth overclocking the i7 to 4.5ghz? would this mean that I have to overclock all my other components too? would this reduce my component life?
  43. ok, so for instance if i bought the hyper 212+ and then overclocked to 4.5ghz, would the processors life be shortened?
  44. would a sata 1 harddrive, or an old pci card slow down my computer if i added them in? (these are just old parts that i have collected)
  45. Best answer selected by p3nca.
  46. the computer seems to be slowing down... but i cant figure out why
    it was previously making a ticking noise
  47. My rig, i mainly use it for homework and gaming.
    i5 2500k overclcoked to 5.0ghz
    kingston hyperx t1 ram overclocked to 2133 mhz
    gigabyte ga-z68x-UD3r-B3
    Seagate Barracuda 7200.16 1TB
    2 x Gigabyte UD GTX 580 oced to 850mhz on core, 4100mhz on frequency, voltage at 1025
    (info from msi afterburner)
    coolermaster silent pro gold 1200
    corsair h80
    modified thermaltake armor a90.

    A couple days ago i found out that my pc was making anooying buzzing noises, first i thought it wuz my cooler, because i installed the fans the other way so my case wouldn't get hot. but then after opening my case and turning my gtx 580 fans right up under furmark, i found out the buzzing started. So i shut down the pc and found out that when the fans were on load, they were creating plenty of suction and were 'sucking' a loose audio wire into the fans. so i tied the audio cable to other cables and retightened __ALL__ screws mainly the case fans and radiator fans. So you should check your cabling, and the screws on your fans. About your pc slowing down, i really can only go to a couple of conclusions, either ur ram is horrible, ur case is getting monstrously hot, or ur hard disk is damaged. i;ve had friends who had gskill ram and had major issues in the first couple of days, eg, BSOD, BAD AS performance in games etc. I've experienced a HDD problem before after my bro hurdled over my case when windows wuz booting, IDIOT - u should also make sure ur HDD is getting enuff cooling. Anyways u should check ur temps, both cpu and gpu, see if u can lower them in anyway.

    hope this helps :p
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