Hello, I am trying to upgrade the hardware parts in my computer to make it even more up-to-date and better for gaming, but I need some help. My first question is, if the hardware I posted below will all fit into my computers case without any issues because I am not familiar with the sizes/shapes of the hardware nor of my case. (You can find my system specs in my profile i believe, but i also posted the stats on the top of this message just in case.)
Second Question, I am basically trying to purchase these items listed below, but I was wondering if they will all be installed and work together properly without and problems since I don't really understand if these parts are compatible with each other. Also, which one of the motherboards am I better off with. Here is the list:
Cases come as either mini, midtower, or full tower sizes.
Any midtower case should be able to fit a standard ATX mobo. Some full tower cases can fit Extended ATX mobos.
Can you link me to your case? As long as your case isn't super tiny, the mobo and graphics card you selected should be able to fit.
As for PSU, Any 750PSU would be able to adequately power your graphics card and cpu with enough room to OC. I suggest getting corsair, antec, or seasonic psu in that range of wattage.
As for cases, I also suggest just buying a new case. In addition to the question of will it fit, you also have to take into consideration whether the case will adequately cool your components. Most prebuilt cases suck at that.
I agree fully with chillin, but would also like to note that a quality (as he described) 550W psu is plenty for your rig. If you use a 750W psu you would actually be prepared for adding a second 560, which you may want to do.
As shown in those tables, a complete PC with a highly OC'd 560 used only 391W from the wall running Furmark, 156W at idle. That means approx 350W/140W Furmark/idle from the psu. Allowing even 100W for fully driving the cpu as well, and you can see a 550W psu would work fine with plenty in reserve.
Also, are you aware you can't use your old copy of Windows if it came from Gateway? So, your "upgrade" is an HD, optical drive, and case short of a complete new build.
1) A new case, $60?, like antec three hundred, comes with all the wires labeled and is flexible on mounting holes, etc. Comes with standoffs, etc. Your current case may require a bit of detective work to figure out where the wires go. Suggest you take lots of pictures before dis-assembly, and flag the wires before you pull them off. A meter can tell you + and -. Or just get a new case. If you get new case you can keep old system running.
2) P67 based chipset is nice. If you want to later add a caching SSD (not sure if that tech really works) then you'd want a z67 based board. Both support your CPU, z67 is newer.
3) Good idea asking for recommendations on power supply, don't want to go cheap there. Also a high efficiency power supply will save you money short term if you tend to leave your PC powered up.
4) You need new memory. DDR3. 6-8GB is a good size, 4GB is OK, but memory is cheap.
5) You current PC is valuable. Might want to look into selling it on EBAY or giving it away. Might be better to sell old PC and buy new drives for new PC.
6) How is heat in the current system? If cool you are ok. If it was getting a bit warm then look at adding another case fan. There are quiet fans that probably would fit the front of the case. Or just count on the EVGA GTX 560's fan to dump heat out of the case.
7) How strongly do you plan to overclock? The other reason for a big PSU,700+ watts, is to supply the up to 2X power required when you try for 4+ghz on your cpu and max the video.
8) re excellent comment on "are you aware you can't use your old copy of Windows if it came from Gateway?" This is sort of true, the OEM license says you can't move windows. However, I've done this before with support of microsoft. The copy of windows will detect it's not on the same MB and give you a warning. You allow windows to connect to the internet. It calls home and sees that you are genuine and haven't done this many times, then it resets your windows to run on the new MB as genuine. The real gottcha is the recovery media. It no longer works. Instead you need to get a full disk image of your system with OS working by a program like Acronis true image. This becomes your recovery media. Your PC came stock with Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit Edition. If you've already bought an upgrade to win7 ignore this. If not, I'd hang out and wait for an upgrade to win8. If you do upgrade you qualify for the OEM version of win7 64 bit for $100.
Oh ya and why would I need a new Hard drive, and optical drive for? Twoboxer?
You don't lol. Sorry if my wording made you think that. I try to keep in mind the OP's original post, which in your case said:
" I am trying to upgrade the hardware parts in my computer to make it even more up-to-date and better for gaming"
That just made me want to say you're not very far from a 100% new build. Again, I apologize if I mislead you.
One final tip: I think you're going to be very happy with your results running stock. But after you've rebuilt your rig and enjoyed it for a while, and on some day when you've got little else to do, install and use the Gigabyte software to apply an automatic overclock. Then play with that for a while, and see if your system feels any different.
My guess is you won't notice any useful gaming gains, and you will see more noise and warmth. So why do it? If and when the day comes where you cannot get playable minimum frame rates (or some similar problem) in some game, you'll know you can get a chunk of additional cpu power without having to learn a lot. And it may be cpu power that is required to raise those frame rates . . . or it may not.