New computer build

[ShEsHy]

I'm planning on buying and assembling the following components;

Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 EVO REV. 3.0 - Intel P67/DDR3/CFX&SLI/1155/ATX - 158.40€ - http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8P67_EVO/
CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K (3,30Ghz, 6MB) BOX - 187.20€ - http://ark.intel.com/products/52210?wapkw=intel i5 2500k
GPU: 2x EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB DS SuperClocked - 226.80€ (453.60€) - http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=01G-P3-1567-AR&family=GeForce 500 Series Family&sw=
RAM: 2x Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600Mhz cl8 KIT - 1.50V - 75.60€ (151.20€) - http://www.corsair.com/vengeance-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz8gx3m2a1600c8.html
PSU: Corsair Gaming Series GS800W - 80+ - 102.00€ - http://www.corsair.com/power-supply-units/gaming-series/gs800w.html
SSD: OCZ Vertex 2 Extended 120GB SSD - 186.00€ - http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-vertex-2-sata-ii-2-5-ssd.html
HDD: 2x Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 64MB - SATA3 - 6Gb/s - 150.00€ (300.00€) - http://www.wdc.com/global/products/specs/?driveID=899&language=1
CPU Cooler: Haven't been upgrading in a while so I don't know any reliable manufacturers

My questions are;
Will an 800 Watt PSU be enough to power the rig (I will be installing the components into my NZXT Tempest with 6 Fans and 2 LEDs)?
Do any of these components clash?
Should I replace any of the components listed above (though I would prefer if they were from the same manufacturer (ASUS Motherboard, Intel CPU, EVGA GPU,...))?

I will be buying the parts in increments of 1-2 components a month, so recommended replacements shouldn't vary by more than 20-40€.

Noise levels don't bother me at all, my most important criteria are compatibility, quality and low temperature.

*Note that the prices may drop/rise before I actually buy them and even though some of the prices may not be the lowest in my country, I trust the store as I've done a lot of business with them before.

 

[jeremy1183]

800 watts is more than powerful enough to power it. You could run a 650 and be fine but keep the 800 for future upgrade room. Good cpu cooler is the hyper 212+.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

I would go with the spinpoint f3 HDD because they are 1tb a piece and cost around $60. Really no need for more than that. Never understood why people get 4tb worth of disk space...but whatever your system your choice.

here is a review on those cards in SLI...i link straight to the page where it talks about power consumption.

http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-560-ti-sli-review/14

This is done through serious testing...you could even go lower than 650 but do yourself a favor and keep some room for upgrade.

 

[ShEsHy]

Great, I already own a Corsair TX650W, so it's good to know that I can hold off on the PSU.

Regarding the CPU cooler, I would prefer if any of these is reccomendable (please ignore the language of the site): http://www.dinokomp.si/index.php/cPath/42_63?osCsid=3995e9186168537aaa51da0738d17179

I think I'm going to stick with my choice for HDD, since I use up a LOT of space (currently have 1.5 TB and it's always full).

Thanks for the advice .

 

[geekapproved]

Looks good. Your right in staying with the WD Black over the Samsung. You get what you pay for.

 

[jeremy1183]

What? There is nothing wrong with the Samsung....either way is good to be honest.

OP your above link doesn't work for me when looking at those cpu coolers. which ones are they?

 

[ShEsHy]

OP your above link doesn't work for me when looking at those cpu coolers. which ones are they?

Probably because our alphabet has some extra letters :s

Here's a list of the CPU coolers compatible with socket 1155 for sale in the store:
Xilence "Black Hawk" red X-LED (775, 1155, 1366, am2/+, am3) -
ANTEC Kühler Box (am2+, am3, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
ANTEC Kühler Flow (am2+, am3, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
ANTEC Kühler Shelf (am2+, am3, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 (am2+, am3, FM1, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366
Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 PRO (am2+, am3, FM1, 775, 1155, 1156
Coolink Corator DS (775, 1155, 1156, 1366, am2+, am3, FM1)
Corsair A50 (am2+, am3, FM1, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
Corsair A70 (am2+, am3, FM1, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
Noctua NH-C12P (am2+, am3, FM1, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
Noctua NH-C12P SE14 (am2+, am3, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
Noctua NH-C14 (am2+, am3, FM1, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
Noctua NH-D14 (am2+, am3, FM1, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
Noctua NH-U12P SE2 (am2+, am3, FM1, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
Noctua NH-U9B SE2 (am2+, am3, FM1, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)
Xigmatek Loki SD963 (am2+, am3, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366)

 

[jeremy1183]

The ones that I see mostly recommended are the Corsair H60, H70, Cooler Master Hyper 212+, Noctua NH-D14, and some of the xigmatek ones.

I have been recommending the h60 here lately because it comes with the thermal paste pre applied so novice builders do not have to worry about applying the right amount. Mine worked out just fine after switching from the hyper 212+....much easier to install as well...especially for intel builds....amd can be just a little bit more complicated but still easier.

 

[geekapproved]

What? There is nothing wrong with the Samsung....either way is good to be honest.

OP your above link doesn't work for me when looking at those cpu coolers. which ones are they?

I never said there was anything wrong with Samsung. I said "you get what you pay for". Please pay attention.

With Samsung, you pay for a 3yr warranty. With Seagate (oem), you pay for a 2yr warranty. With WD Black, you pay for a 5yr warranty. Nuff said.

 

[jeremy1183]

And I said either way is good....You Pay attention!! lol.....I got ya though. I always seem to overlook warranty periods when comparing

 

[ShEsHy]

Well then, since I've received no warnings of incompatibility or poor choices, I'll be buying the components next month, starting with the motherboard and continuing with the CPU and RAM, which will allow me to assemble the new computer in 3 months if not sooner.

Thanks to both of you for your advice.

I've also decided to upgrade my keyboard and mouse, and I've chosen these;
Keyboard: Logitech Gaming Keyboard G110 - 79,00€ - http://www.logitech.com/en-roeu/keyboards/keyboard/devices/5902
Mouse: KUDOS Gaming Mouse - 49.00€ - http://www.speedlink.com/?p=3&cat=3111&pid=21156&paus=1

What do you think, are they worth it or do you have anything better/cheaper to recommend (though both must be corded, keyboard must be mechanical, have a tall Enter key and have room around the directional keys, and the mouse must be laser with configurable DPI and have several extra buttons)?

 

[jeremy1183]

Dunno much about mice/keyboard....I just bought the alienware package because I liked the way it looks... ...been working good though.

Razer has great mice though

 

[ShEsHy]

Dunno much about mice/keyboard....I just bought the alienware package because I liked the way it looks... ...been working good though.

Razer has great mice though

I know about Razer, but their design, lack of configurable DPI (and price) don't agree with me.

 

[jeremy1183]

Mine had configurable dpi with a built in switch

 

[ShEsHy]

Mine had configurable dpi with a built in switch

and how much did it set you back for?

 

[jeremy1183]

Not to much one sec...ill find it and edit this post...the switch however was on the bottom of the mouse if that matters...???

Here...nothing real fancy but it worked very good for me. No side buttons....my hands seem to tense when playing FPS games so having no buttons on the side kept me from doing something that I didn't want to do while playing.....like knifing instead of shooting

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826153056

 

[ShEsHy]

Looks pretty good, but I can't use both-handed mice, not to mention I need mah buttonz .
Got waaay to used to just squeezing my thunb in CoD4 to melee campers .

 

[jeremy1183]

Yeah...i have mine on the alienware disabled cause my thumbs get excited for some reason and then I miss a kill or get killed cause my Dumb A** knives instead of shoots

 

[geekapproved]

You can't go wrong with a logitech. Period.