Constant freezes

Hi!

I've been struggling with huge freezing issues the last year, being a student, i cant really afford a new pc, so i've endured.

Although I think I've tried pretty much any tip out here/there.

This is my rig: - Asus P6T Deluxe v2 Newest bios version (1202) - Core i7 920 - 4 x 3 kingston ram (also tried with corsair) - 750w corsair psu - gforce 580 gtx The issue is it freezes, alot, all the time.

Wether just the browser thats being used (tried them all) or gaming, it hangs up every 5-10 min and can be frozen for 10 sec to several minutes. The mouse pointer goes into "thinking mode" and the browser goes white until it returns. In-game, its more of the typical freeze, sound looping etc.

Now, games react differently as well. Diablo 3 will freeze completely and often. Skyrim doesnt freeze as much, and HoN (Heroes of Newerth) only freezes at the hero selection screen, but rarerly when im ingame.. Other weird thing is only 8 giga ram is detected, even in bios. (running 64 bit os btw).

Ive tested every ram by itself in a_1, and it works individually, even bought new one that didnt help. Ive tried setting the ram to 1333 mhz (from auto) with 2666 (whatever is supposed to be at least the double of the ram hz again) to no avail, while trying 1,45 - 1,65 v. Ive ran memtests, reinstalled formated, hdd tests etc without any issues as well.

Done anti-virus tests, even took the whole pc apart and put it back together to no avail. What im afraid of is that ive to buy a new motherboard, which i really cant afford atm.

Suggestions ? :(
36 answers Last reply
More about constant freezes
  1. Welcome to Tom's Forum! :)

    Do or check the following:
    1. Clear CMOS 'correctly' ; most folks don't so unplug the PSU for 5 minutes, using the Jumper method move the CMOS Jumper for 5+ seconds (longer is fine), then boot in to the BIOS, press F5, and AI Overclock Tuner -> XMP, (Configure SATA as -> AHCI if using AHCI**), F10 Save & Exit = Yes ; see video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdHH9KrceR0

    2. Use only the Intel SATA Ports

    3. RAM is installed in the Red DIMM Slots, and you ram Memtest for 4-full passes without any errors.

    4. Run SFC and Scan disk; this is good maintenance every 2-3 months, schedule for ALL drives and reboot (1TB takes ~45 minute). See - http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/Jaquith/Scan-Drives-Windows-7.jpg

    5. Rule out a Windows issue - run MSCONFIG select Diagnostic mode and reboot. IF the problem is solved then you have a conflict. Next select Normal Startup and under the Services (tab) select [x] Hide all Microsoft Services and deselect all other [ ] listed items and under Startup (tab) click Disable All then reboot and test. IF the problem is stlll solved then you have the pain staking task of determining which Service or Startup item is the culprit.

    6. In the Device Manager make certain there are no {? or !} list items, and if there are then uninstall the {? or !}, re-install the missing/bad driver and click re-scan or simply reboot.

    7. Odd behavior can also be a sign of a bad or failing PSU.

    AHCI Mode**:
    Run Fix It - http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976
    Verify both Start values = 0 for AHCI ; see - http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/Jaquith/AHCI_Start_0.jpg
  2. Thanks, ive been lurking for years :) And appreciate the tips greatly, i'll go thouroughly through them!


    I tried the following settings in the bios, but it wouldnt load past the windows logo (the logo didnt actually even show up, just the text):


    Manual

    Dram frequency: 1333
    UCLK frequency: 2666

    Dram core voltage: 1.4
    Dram bus voltage: 1,64
  3. Huh something weird is going on here, i restored the defaults in the bios and rebooted again, still takes forever getting in windows. Got the repair windows prompt for the first time now.

    This is the second time im experiencing this, same procedure as well, played with the ram voltage and it gets sickly slow. Last time i just reset the boot config in windows, and it booted normally.

    Weird, might be some win issues if im lucky, but ive already formatted and reinstalled. :)

    Again, appreciate the tips, once im inside win again, i'll carry them out :)
  4. Q - What exact RAM? ; I need a link
    Q - In following the steps did you clear the CMOS?

    No DDR3-1333 kit I can think of uses a DRAM Voltage of e.g. 1.64v so my feeling is you didn't Clear CMOS.
  5. Per your 2nd (Huh) post many things can cause this so my "4. Run SFC and Scan disk" will scan the HDD for bad blocks and Windows errors.
  6. Heh "The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible". All that from just playing a bit with the RAM :(
  7. Ah i didnt clear it, i did it right before i read your post :)

    I'm not sure the exact RAM, but i'll find a link. Also ill have to continue tomorrow, its 4:36 AM here and ive banged my head against this for 14 hours straight :P

    Appreciate the help so far :)
  8. isbil said:
    Heh "The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible". All that from just playing a bit with the RAM :(

    That's a HDD issue or you set the SATA to AHCI before running Fix It (Start = 0) in the registry. For now F5 and F10 Save & Exit = yes. Then boot into Windows and Run 'Fix It', verify both Start = 0, boot into the BIOS and enter the settings, then it should boot into Windows.
  9. isbil said:
    Ah i didnt clear it, i did it right before i read your post :)

    I'm not sure the exact RAM...

    Install CPU-z and look at the 'SPD' tab. See - http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
    > What are the right most values?
    > Does it state XMP?

    Example:
    Non XMP kit:


    XMP kit:
  10. Did reset the CMOS properly now, went into bios, loaded default setings, set xmp, saved and quit. It rebooted, but the image wont show (red led).

    Turned it off and on again, and got the "Overclocking failed" prompt. Tried to exit and save without changing anything, suspecting it could be the cold start issue/bug some asus motherboards have, to no avail.

    Now i've changed the bios settings back to default, experiencing the same issues as yesterday, wont load the OS.

    I havent touched the AHCI settings :) Not sure what it is tbh.

    For now, i think ive to reinstall windows due to the "The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible" prompt
  11. Got into windows without re-installing it, took a while, but it eventually managed to boot, even though it took 10-12 min.

    I couldnt set XMP and boot correctly as i wrote in the post above, but i did install cpu-z :)

    Kinda weird, bios and windows say they can recognize 8 gig RAM, while cpu-z says 12 (which is correct). :o




  12. Ran chkdsk on both partitions as well, looks fine, no bad sectors

    No conflicts in the Device manager either.

    I'm not sure if i understand what you mean by Intel SATA ports btw :) Ive my only hdd (took the other out a while ago for easier debugging) as sata 3.

    And yet the booting problems arent gone, weird. Only seen it like this today. I'll format and reinstall win i guess, can hardly access it anymore.

    Diagnostics mode didnt make any difference sadly.

    Was hoping now that it takes 15 to 20 mins to boot into win, that i could isolate the issue to the hdd, or software, but im not really sure anymore.
  13. I'm not ignoring your post, I've been trying for two days to D/L your manual but for some reason I can't; see - http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1366/P6T_Deluxe_V2/#download P6T Deluxe V2 user’s manual(English)

    HDD's use the ICH10R (SATA ports 1~4 only) and Disable the Marvell 88SE6111.

    In the manual I'm trying to see if there's a DOCP and DRAM OC -> DDR3-1600 setting rather than the updated AS OC Tuner -> XMP.

    Diagnostic Mode - well then chances are it's not the OS short of a corruption which SFC 'should' have detected and instead a H/W issue.

    Try uninstalling the nVidia drivers in the Device Manager and reboot. Yeah I know it messes with the resolution and speed, but I'm trying to rule-out a common driver corruption issue.
  14. Oh i really didnt mean to imply that, i'm truly grateful for the help :)

    It's been handy to have this post 'blog-style' for myself, so i could see what ive tried etc.

    I did use SATA 5 until today actually, now its on 3.

    I'll try disabling the controller from the BIOS and uninstalling the nvidia drivers :)

    Or would you recommend a clean slate instead?
  15. Easy first then we'll think about reformatting.

    Q - Are you able to D/L that manual or is it just me?
  16. Interesting, uninstalled the nvidia drivers, and some parts got more responsive (folder navigation e.g.) Still got some hangs eventually, but they were much shorter. I've only tested it for 30 min or so, but there's definately improvement on how long it hangs.

    Although it seems to be as frequent.

    Still have the weird and quite long booting time for some reason though.

    I managed to dl the manual just fine from www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1366/P6T_Deluxe_V2/#download - i know they're using akami, but that shouldnt be an issue, weird :)

    Edit: They seem to be more frequent now thought.
  17. D/L (Global) is a fail, and I'm not going to install 'stuff' to get a file.

    All right, next re-install the latest GPU drivers for your OS and then shut the PC down and lets play musical ports:
    Try a different PCIe power lead from the PSU
    Move the SATA to Port 0
    Move ALL of the USB devices @ the I/O
    Disable the Marvell
    Re-install the INF and all of the Drivers:
    1. Intel Chipset Inf Update Program V9.1.1.1014
    2. SoundMAX 2000B Audio Driver V6.10.1.6585
    3. Marvell Yukon Gigabit Ethernet Driver V11.10.5.3
    4. Intel(R) Matrix Storage Manager Driver V8.9.0.1023
    5. Marvell 61XX SATA Driver V1.2.0.68
    6. Uninstall any 'Utility' listed in the [+] 'Utilities' section of -> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1366/P6T_Deluxe_V2/#download

    Next go to Intel and run their Driver Update Utility -> http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/detect?iid=dc_iduu

    Lastly, run Window's Update.

    It seems more like a Driver or similar corruption.
  18. i'll get right on to that !

    I'll have to track down sata port 0.

    A few questions though:

    The marvell, is that the marvell storage controller in the BIOS we're talking about? I've disabled that now.

    Moving all the USB devices to the I/O, not sure if im following on that one :)

    Update: Moved the sata to port 1, couldnt find 0, only 1 through 6. Removed every usb connection to the mobo, except the integrated of course.

    Also i see that the mobo doesnt have all the screws attached to the chassis due to the chassis being funky.
  19. Correct RE: Marvell. USB @ the (I/O) rear of the MOBO -- move the USB cables around (like musical chairs/1->3, 2->1, 3->2); it causes Windows to create a 'new' entry and if there's a corruption it might solve a problem.

    Oddly, every so often I have to move my keyboard from e.g. USB Port 1 -> USB Port 2 otherwise 'surprise' no volume control or keypad function (bad driver; since an update it 'seems' to be fine). Ain't computers just so much fun!
  20. Installing the network marvell drivers made a conflict (! in device manager), im removing them alltogether and trying again, just noting in case that might means something.

    Haha wonderfully weird, guess i should've picked up an another hobby, but what can you do :P
  21. Windows cannot verify the digital signature for the drivers required for this device. A recent hardware of software hange might have installed a file that is signed incorrectly or damaged, or that might be malicious software from an unknown source. (Code 52)

    Weird, got it off the official site.


    Edit: This thing is haunted, every 4th or so reboot is ok, while the rest hangs for 10 mins or so.
  22. Duh, seems clear that this is a Driver issue. I noticed that the drivers are very old and only Beta +1. Regarding the Marvell drivers, you'll need to either uninstall them or enable Marvell in the BIOS. (WHQL) won't generate that message, but non-(WHQL) drivers will give a 'signing' notification -- in most cases proceed if you D/L them from a source such as an OEM site e.g. ASUS.

    You can always unpdate the drivers from the Windows Device Manager (right-click) or through Windows Update often listed in the 'Optional' section.
  23. Also i see that the mobo doesnt have all the screws attached to the chassis due to the chassis being funky.
  24. Note: If your RAM is being recognized as 8 gigs instead of 12 gigs, you might be running Vista Home Edition which only supports 8 gigs.
  25. nuowuzhi888 said:
    Also i see that the mobo doesnt have all the screws attached to the chassis due to the chassis being funky.http://www.liveforexchart.info/g.gif

    If the case uses pseudo standoff's then no doubt you'll have grounding shorts, so double check. If the standoffs are punch-outs vs real standoffs (see below) then remove the MOBO and insulate with either plastic washers or a couple layers of electrical tape.

    Real standoff's that must line-up with all MOBO screw holes and never allow extra standoff's to hit the MOBO:
  26. joshbarber89 said:
    Note: If your RAM is being recognized as 8 gigs instead of 12 gigs, you might be running Vista Home Edition which only supports 8 gigs.


    Running win 7 64 bit ultimate :)
  27. jaquith said:
    If the case uses pseudo standoff's then no doubt you'll have grounding shorts, so double check. If the standoffs are punch-outs vs real standoffs (see below) then remove the MOBO and insulate with either plastic washers or a couple layers of electrical tape.

    Real standoff's that must line-up with all MOBO screw holes and never allow extra standoff's to hit the MOBO:
    http://www.clinchindia.com/images/subcategary/21.jpg



    Ouch, the mobo is mounted on some kind of plate, not sure about the material, in the chassis, directly. There are small screws that attach the mobo directly to that plate.
  28. Well I'd add a couple layers of electrical tape and/or plastic washers and make certain that the MOBO isn't touching (shorting) on the case's MOBO plate...
  29. jaquith said:
    Well I'd add a couple layers of electrical tape and/or plastic washers and make certain that the MOBO isn't touching (shorting) on the case's MOBO plate...


    Seems like my english vocabulary when it comes to tool aint that great, so i figured i'd explain it in pictures instead :P

    This is how it looks like inside, there seems to be no room to put anything between the screws and the plate itself. It's touching the plate, actually its hugging the plate, all the way.





  30. If the MOBO is laying pancake flat on the Case's metal plate then I'd add thick plastic washers, but most (cheap) cases at least have some sort of minimal 'pop-out' style screw holes.

    IF pancake flat then tick plastic/nylon washers:


    IF minimal 'pop-out' style then thin plastic/nylon washers or a couple layers of electrical tape:


    OR new Case. Breadboard - You can try to remove the MOBO from the case and place the MOBO on a non-conducive surface e.g. MOBO Box and see if the problems are solved outside the Case.
  31. jaquith said:
    If the MOBO is laying pancake flat on the Case's metal plate then I'd add thick plastic washers, but most (cheap) cases at least have some sort of minimal 'pop-out' style screw holes.

    IF pancake flat then tick plastic/nylon washers:
    http://www.componentforce.com/userfiles/image/categories/nylonwashers9.0mmidto40mmid_lg.jpg

    IF minimal 'pop-out' style then thin plastic/nylon washers or a couple layers of electrical tape:
    http://www.arrioflyer.com/images/experiment/plaswasher.JPG

    OR new Case. Breadboard - You can try to remove the MOBO from the case and place the MOBO on a non-conducive surface e.g. MOBO Box and see if the problems are solved outside the Case.



    Applied electrical tape under it, now it's resting on alot of tape inside the chassis, lying down. The booting issues seem to still be there, but it suddendly seems to discover 12 gigs of ram, all of it :)

    I'll do some testing now regarding the freezes, but its certanly an improvement!!


    Edit: If this really is the issue, i've some self-ransacking to do..
  32. Remember the 'shorting & ground' may have corrupted the hell out of the OS --- meaning it might be a good idea to backup, full format (not quick), and re-install the OS.

    /Edit - hopefully in the process of all of 'this' you didn't damage the hardware...
  33. I'll buy a new case on monday and resume the work then, i don't dare fiddling with it more for now.

    I hope the shorting havent caused permanent damage on the mobo =/ I've been careful while removing the mobo etc now.

    Freezing issue seems to be still there, but im not sure if its 100% grounded now, i'll be sure when the new chassis is here.
  34. Two good examples of many, I use the 500R and it has excellent airflow and cable management:

    $100 Corsair 500R - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139009
    $80 Corsair 300R - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139011

    The ASUS P6T Deluxe V2 came with a 3 year warranty so if purchased after August 25, 2009 it's still covered...worst case.
  35. BTW - I'd like to see a picture of the case where the MOBO was installed after you remove the MOBO.

    It's curiosity only so no rush.
  36. Appreciate the tip, once again, thanks alot!

    What i've done is i removed the mobo (unscrewed it and took it out of the case). Folded approx 20 pieces of electrical tape, taped it to the plate in a scattered manner, so the probability for the mobo touching the plate would be minimal.

    Now it's laying loosely on the tape, inside the case, which of course is also laying down :)
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