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Network adaptor not working

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Anonymous
August 31, 2012 12:53:34 PM

I just built a new gaming PC with Z77 Extreme4 motherboard. I got everything set-up fine, but when I tried to connect to the internet, Windows 7 told me to "Install a driver for your network adapter". I installed all of the drivers on the CD provided by AsRock, but there was no driver for the network adaptor so I downloaded it myself from their website. It is still not working. Am I doing something wrong?

Also, the LAN indicators on the back are not lighting up. I am hoping the LAN slot is not dead already.

More about : network adaptor working

August 31, 2012 1:56:23 PM

Hi

Is the LAN adapter an onboard card or daughter-card?
Have you performed *Scan For New Hardware Changes*?

Usually Windows will find new hardware in which the device will show up with a question mark. If it is found and listed with a question mark, then you know at least the slot is good.

If it's an onboard card, ensure that it is enabled in the BIOS, if it's a daughter-card, you may want to power down the PC, pull out the LAN card, boot up the PC, then power down again and insert the LAN card followed by another power up. If no joy, power down the PC, remove the LAN card, install into another slot and power up. If no joy, then try the LAN card in an alternate PC or test the slots on the MOBO with an identical card, i.e. USB3 card or whatever hardware you mave lying around that fits the slot(s) used.

Hope this helps and good luck.
Anonymous
August 31, 2012 2:14:58 PM

If onboard means that it is the motherboards LAN adapter, then it is onboard.
Yes I have. Nothing happens. The "Network Adapter" drop down menu in device manager only appears when I tick show hidden devices.

The LAN adapter does not show up in the unknown devices drop down menu.

It is enabled in the BIOS.

In the AsRock BIOS, when I click on the "System Browser", the LAN adapter has a yellow box around it and says something about 1000mpbs. I assume that means that it is recognising that I have a LAN cable plugged in? I would say what it says word for word, but I cannot enter BIOS at the moment.
Related resources
a c 717 V Motherboard
August 31, 2012 2:37:07 PM

Q - Are you sure the CAT-5e/6 cable is 'live'? ; if there's nothing connected or the wired network cable is 'dead' then it won't light-up.

If you can either test the CAT-5e/6 cable with another PC (or Notebook) or move your ASRock PC to your Router with a known good CAT-5e/6 cable then you'll know for certain where the problem is in this case.

Open the Device Manager and right click Uninstall; the NIC should be listed without {? or !} symbols and [+] Network Adapters.

Download the correct drivers for your OS and bit size - http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z77%20Extreme4/?cat=Down...
Example Windows 7 64-bit (Broadcom Lan driver ver:14.8.4.1)

Further, before installing ANY other driver, always install the Chipset (INF) driver FIRST; example INF driver ver:9.3.0.1019 for Windows 7 64-bit.
Anonymous
August 31, 2012 3:00:00 PM

The CAT-5e/6 cable is live. I tested it on my PS3 and it works.

I tried uninstalling the Network Adapters already. It told me that it uninstalled them, but they remained there, even after a reboot.

I am going to reinstall Windows and start fresh and do everything in the order you say.

Could I be setting the BIOS up wrongly?
Anonymous
August 31, 2012 3:20:15 PM

The System Browser in BIOS says, "LAN Port 1: Connected at link speed 1000mpbs". I assume that means it is recognising the cable?
a c 717 V Motherboard
August 31, 2012 3:41:41 PM

I'd have to boot in my BIOS to notice what it says, or boot into your other PC to compare. I never look at the BIOS LAN 'indicators'. Since most home Routers are 10/100 I'd take that indicator with a grain of salt.

If the BIOS says it works and Windows fails then I'd first test the RAM with Memtest86+ for 2~4 Passes then reformat and re-install the OS. Meaning if the RAM is throwing errors then your OS is corrupted; Memtest - http://www.memtest.org/#downiso
Anonymous
August 31, 2012 4:18:49 PM

Okay, I will run Memtest. I will post a reply afterwards to let you know whether or not it works.

Another thing while I am here; my BIOS tells me that my RAM is DDR3-1333, yet my RAM is actually DDR3-1600. Why is saying that? Is there any way to change it?
Anonymous
August 31, 2012 4:54:22 PM

I literally have no idea how to set the BIOS up to get the best out of my components. I cannot find any guides on how to set-up the BIOS for the Z77 Extreme4 either. Are there any guides that you know of which I can use?
a c 717 V Motherboard
August 31, 2012 6:23:39 PM

BIOS - For now there's really not much that needs to be done before you install the OS; clearly there are a few exceptions -- particularly Intel SATA settings. If you ever plan on having any form of RAID (0,1,5 or 10) then Intel SATA -> RAID; SATA Mode Selection -> RAID 'IF' RAID is used. Example SSD + HDD (one of each) 'AHCI' vs SSD + HDD (2) in RAID 1 then use 'RAID.'

DDR3-1333 vs DDR3-1600 and basic settings in BIOS:
Press F9 ; Load Optimized Defaults
DRAM Timing Configuration /Enter
Load XMP Setting -> Profile 1 ; in most cases use Profile 1 or a few cases if applicable Profile 2
Press F10 ; Save & Exit = Yes

Function keys require 'F Lock' to be enabled on the keyboard itself.
Anonymous
August 31, 2012 7:43:17 PM

Thanks for the information.

I ran Memtest twice and passed twice. I re-installed Windows 7, installed INF first and then installed the rest of the drivers. Windows still tells me that I need to install the driver. It says, "Windows did not detect a properly installed network adapter. If you have a network adapter, you will need to re-install the driver."

When I go to device manager, there are no network adapters or unknown devices shown until I select, "Show Hidden Devices". It shows me this:

Network Adapters

- WAN Miniport (IKEv2)
- WAN Miniport (IP)
- WAN Miniport (1Pv6)
- WAN Miniport (L2TP)
- WAN Miniport (Network Monitor)
- WAN Miniport (PPOE)
- WAN Miniport (PPTP)
- WAN Miniport (SSTP)

Unknown Devices

- IKBMON_01
- IMSMON_01
- IMSMON_02

This is really starting to stress me out. It is my first build and I was looking forward to playing games like they were meant to be played. I might just buy a cheap network adaptor if the problems persist. I may moan to Amazon claiming that it is faulty so they could maybe send me a network adaptor free of charge, because I am definitely NOT removing everything from the board to return it. Especially not the CM212+ EVO CPU Cooler which was hell to install.
a c 717 V Motherboard
August 31, 2012 8:42:21 PM

The IKBMON_01 is a missing keyboard driver, the IMSMON_01~02 are some form of USB devices maybe the KB/Mouse.

I assume that you did NOT use the supplied DVD to install your drivers and instead downloaded and installed the ONLY the latest drivers from ASRock.

Q - What Window 7 EXACT version including the Service Pack?


Also, you CANNOT connect any USB 3.0 devices until Windows finishes installing AND you installed BOTH the ASMedia & Intel USB 3.0 Drivers; i.e. don't connect any device(s) to the Blue USB 3.0 ports.
Anonymous
August 31, 2012 9:43:33 PM

I used the supplied DVD on my first installation of Windows, but the same thing happened. In fact, when I used the supplied DVD, there was no LAN driver included which I found rather confusing.

I am using Windows 7 Home Premium Service Pack 1

The only things connected to USB 3.0 when installing Windows was my iPod and my USB. But the first time I installed Windows nothing was connected to USB 3.0 and nothing different happened.

I installed both because on another thread on someone recommended that you should.

"From the specs, the Extreme4 has four USB3 ports in the rear - two are driven by Intel, two by ASmedia. That said, you should be installing both drivers."
- http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/244876-39-asrock-ex...
a c 717 V Motherboard
August 31, 2012 11:10:41 PM

No Devices can be connected to the USB 3.0 until the drivers are full installed first. Disconnect the devices and re-install the Drivers again.

64-bit or 32-bit?

Example minimum set for 64-bit:

INF driver ver:9.3.0.1019
Broadcom Lan driver ver:14.8.4.1
ASMedia SATA3 Driver ver:1.3.1
ASMedia USB 3.0 driver ver:1.10.1.0
Intel USB 3.0 driver ver:1.0.4.220
VGA driver ver:15.26.12.64.2761

Recommended:
Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver ver:11.2.0.1006

Unknown:
CIR receiver driver ver:20110219 ; CIR generally refers to some form of receiver driver e.g. Smart Remote

Problematic (requires specific installations; see each manual):
Intel Rapid Start
Intel Smart Connect
Instant Boot
Anonymous
September 1, 2012 11:22:09 AM

I did everything you said, and it is still not working. The network adaptor is still not showing in my Devices. If it is the LAN socket that is messed up, I am worried that the motherboard might be messed up too. Considering this is my first build and I forked out £1000 for it, I really do not want that to be the case.

I requested a replacement from Amazon free of charge.
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 1:13:36 PM

Installing a NIC shouldn't be that difficult. So an RMA makes good sense at this point -- you tried.

Good luck and let me know! :) 
Anonymous
September 1, 2012 1:24:06 PM

Thanks. I will receive the new motherboard on the 5th of September and will not have to send my one off until I receive it. It's going to be annoying having to disconnect everything again. I will post a message to let you know whether or not the new motherboard sorted out the problems.

One last thing, I am worried about having to remove the CPU and CPU cooler. The CPU cooler was hell to install. Will it be hard to remove with the thermal paste that is applied to it?
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 1:47:50 PM

Well the second time should be easier (HSF), but anytime you remove a HSF you must also remove and replace the TIM (Thermal Paste).

My advice is to remove both the HSF and CPU before cleaning. I use paper towels,Q-Tips and Isopropyl alcohol to clean the surfaces, cleaning each 2-3 times, and lastly blow-off any dust/lint. If you're really obsessive then use a cleaner: Arcticlean - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

You'll need to also purchase new TIM if you're out, I recommend Arctic Cooling MX-4 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

When reapplying use a thin line in the middle of the CPU.~1/2" long.

The 'good' thing is you're gaining a lot of experience and if there's anything you wish you could have done 'better' building -- well here's your opportunity.
Anonymous
September 1, 2012 2:15:31 PM

Do I really need to replace the thermal paste? The PC was built on the 30th of August. Would the thermal paste have dried by then? I do not want to have to purchase more stuff after spending so much already.

I am gaining a lot of experience which is great. Next I need to learn how to overclock my CPU and GPU.

I will just purchase this if it is necessary:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Paste-Articlean-C...
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 2:32:55 PM

Yep, you 'SHOULD' replace your TIM. The biggest reasons are oxidation and contamination after it's applied and the only question is how much efficiency will be lost.

Keep it at your own risk. I'm not trying to 'sell' you stuff, but I want you to have the best possible outcome. Further, if you have TIM and an older PC 2-3+ years you can probably lower their temps by cleaning and replacing their TIM...
a c 88 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 2:34:37 PM

Anonymous said:
One last thing, I am worried about having to remove the CPU and CPU cooler. The CPU cooler was hell to install. Will it be hard to remove with the thermal paste that is applied to it?

The 212 is not that hard to install/remove once you have figured out the instructions but I agree it can be bothersome at first.

As for thermal paste, it is largely a purist thing since pulling paste apart, putting it back together and spreading it back out by re-installing with used paste will increase the amount of air bubbles in the paste which can reduce cooling performance if there are way too many large bubbles in the paste. If you are not obsessed with getting every last 1C worth of cooling capacity out of your CPU+HSF, paste recycling is fine when done properly.
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 2:49:20 PM

I didn't even want to encourage it...

If you reuse the TIM then scrape it off the HSF using a e.g. (cleaned) Credit Card, clean the HSF as describe above. Using a scarper e.g. Credit Card spread the remainder evenly over the top of the CPU while making every effort to remove bubbles. Then re-install the HSF.

Meanwhile, keep the HSF on the CPU until you're ready to migrate the components to the new MOBO.

TIM spread on the CPU:
Anonymous
September 1, 2012 3:26:35 PM

It is okay, I am purchasing the product that I mentioned for £14.69 to ensure I get it on the same day as my motherboard. It is a new build and I spent £1000. I would rather be safe than sorry.

One thing though; Are you supposed to put the TIM on both the CPU and the CPU cooler? When I installed the Hyper Evo 212+, I only placed it on the cooler. Was that wrong? Also, how much TIM should I be putting onto it?
a c 88 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 3:46:57 PM

Anonymous said:
One thing though; Are you supposed to put the TIM on both the CPU and the CPU cooler? Also, how much TIM should I be putting onto it?

You only need to put paste on one side, though you might want to apply a thin coat on rough surfaces first to fill the worst scratches/cracks before doing the "grain of rice" application if you choose that method.

As for the quantity, you might be surprised at how little it takes. Best way to find out for yourself is to put a small amount in the middle, mount, remove to see how large the spot became, add a little if the spot does not cover most of the CPU, re-install, re-remove, check again, repeat until you are satisfied with the result. Now that you know the exact amount, clean and re-apply.
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 3:51:40 PM

Generally, it's best to place the TIM on the CPU itself and not the HSF. The reasoning is sizing and alignment. A single line ~1/2" (12mm) in the center of the CPU is ideal for LGA 115X CPUs.
Anonymous
September 1, 2012 3:58:29 PM

I am pretty sure that the instructions for the CPU cooler said to apply a thin layer to the cooler itself. So, I should just apply a pea sized amount instead?
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 4:46:35 PM

It's what you're used to doing, I can see the center of the CPU and know where it's spreading a heck of a lot easier than on the HSF. It's like making a PB sandwich once the bread is shoved together try to figure out which side it was originally spread on first.

The underlying idea is so you don't apply too much. Suggestion and practice, since you're going to have ~10x+ more than you need try applying X amount then remove the HSF and look how it spread. You don't want the TIM to be squeezed-out the sides (too much) nor do you want corners absent of TIM (too little).

The reason I recommend the MX-4 is because it very good and most importantly it's non-conductive or capacitive -- i.e. it's safe while many TIM compounds are not.
Anonymous
September 1, 2012 4:53:52 PM

I see. I will make sure to do that next time.

The TIM I chose is non-conductive but is capacitive. Should I order one that is non-capacitive too? Or is it not that big of a problem?
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 5:16:11 PM

I'm guessing AS5, products like AS5 have been around for a very long time so a lesson to learn is the number of reviews has little correlation with the better (newer) products.

All I can say is be VERY careful and don't allow the TIM to get in contact with the CPU pins or anything electrical on the MOBO.

Edit/Ryan did a good work-up -> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/274824-29-thermal-com...
Anonymous
September 1, 2012 5:42:14 PM

The reason why I chose it was because of the reviews. Thanks for the info.

I will be careful. It cannot be that difficult to apply it without getting it onto anything electrical on the motherboard.

Thanks for all the help and information. I will make a post after I reassemble my PC with the new motherboard to let you know what happens.

A question about overclocking; to overclock my CPU, should I just enter the BIOS and select one of the options from "Load Optimised CPU OC Setting"? Or should I use ASRock Extreme Tuning Utility? I know nothing when it comes to overclocking.
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 6:08:57 PM

Loading Optimized is defaults only i.e. not overclocking. As far as 'Utilities' or 'Buttons' to OC I really don't recommend using those methods of OC'ing. Instead, you MUST have a SB/IB (K) unlocked CPU or you're SOL.

There are sooo many OC'ing Guides that it's ridiculous, the SB/SB-E/IB (K) CPU's can be overclocked better (higher OC) and faster simply increasing the CPU Multiplier and dialing-in the vCore Voltage than the 'Utilities.' Some ultra-high OC's require Phase, Current and LLC adjustments.

Frankly, because of the problems and resulting BIOS conflicts I first tell folks to uninstall any BIOS invasive 'Utility', and about the only one I recommend is for your GPU(s) -- MSI Afterburner.

Your MOBO is VERY common and there's no shortage of guides.
Anonymous
September 1, 2012 9:50:42 PM

I will wait until I have rebuilt my PC to search for guides on overclocking my CPU and GPU.

You have to remember that I am rather new to the majority of this stuff. I have no idea what SB, SB-E, IB, (K), SOL, vCore, CPU Multiplier, Phase, Current and LLC are. I mean, you say "simply", yet to me it is not that simple as of yet.
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 1, 2012 11:38:54 PM

SB = Sandy Bridge CPU
IB = Ivy Bridge CPU
SB-E = Sandy Bridge Extreme CPU (LGA 2011)
K = Unlocked CPU
SOL = Shi* Out of Luck
vCore = CPU Voltage
Phase = Number and Level of Power Phases available to CPU
LLC = Load Line Calibration ; aids in stabilizing CPU voltage drops

So the only LGA 1155 CPU's that can be overclocked are:
SB: i5-2500K, i5-2550K, i7-2600K, i7-2700K
IB: i5-3570K or i7-3770K

So if you don't have any of those (K) Unlocked CPU's in OC'ing you're SOL.
a c 88 V Motherboard
September 2, 2012 12:40:16 AM

Anonymous said:
Should I order one that is non-capacitive too? Or is it not that big of a problem?

As long as you do not put so much paste on that it overflows onto the CPU's substrate, you can put whatever paste you want since the paste will not come into contact with anything of electrical significance.
Anonymous
September 2, 2012 12:02:55 PM

I am fine then. My CPU is IB (K). To get a better idea of what I'm dealing with, this is my build: http://pcpartpicker.com/uk/p/flrQ
Anonymous
September 2, 2012 3:00:56 PM

Should I install LucidVirtu MVP driver when I get my new mobo? When I turned GPU Virtualisation on, it caused Nvidia control panel to crash and spam C++ errors when I tried to open it. Turning GPU Virtulisation off resolved the problem.
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 2, 2012 3:12:07 PM

Anonymous said:
Should I install LucidVirtu MVP driver when I get my new mobo? When I turned GPU Virtualisation on, it caused Nvidia control panel to crash and spam C++ errors when I tried to open it. Turning GPU Virtulisation off resolved the problem.

No, I would use or recommend MVP with a GTX 670, you don't need it not to mention the problems as you've discovered. If you had a GPU that needed the acceleration of MVP AND your game was supported (listed) then I could see the use of MVP.

Typically the nVidia GPU's don't have the troubles you experienced and the nVidia GPU's have been shown to improve performance in 'some' games, but also loss of performance in 'some' games. However, if you're comparing 100FPS vs 90FPS you won't know the difference and I recommend vSync to avoid 'tearing'. If your Monitor is 60Hz = 60FPS then anything greater risks 'tearing' and vSync lowers the rendering FPS (60 FPS) = Monitor's (60Hz) refresh rate.
Anonymous
September 2, 2012 3:54:47 PM

Is vSync a program or a GPU setting? My monitor is 60Hz.
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 2, 2012 4:09:24 PM

vSync is a setting in the Game itself. nVidia new drivers adds 'Adaptive VSync'; more info - http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/04/16/nvidia_adapti...

In short the Adaptive VSync further adds frame rate stability to avoid larger frame rate drops with vSync enabled.
September 2, 2012 11:16:36 PM

I bought a (142gm) 5oz tube of Dow Corning 340 thermal paste about 20 years ago and have barely used half of it after installing/re-installing literally 100+ heat sinks (not all were on CPUs). After cleaning excess with an old credit card (or, I prefer the wallet calendars from my bank... not as thick as credit cards), a paper towel and some 99% isopropyl cleans it off nicely.
NB you don't want residue from this stuff anywhere near a paint shop.

=============================

If you do Start/orb, type in msinfo32 and hit Enter, expand Components on the left, then click Problem Devices, on the right you should be able to get the hardware ID of devices that don't yet have drivers properly installed.

They'll look like, e.g. PCI\VEN_14E4&DEV_170C&CC_0200
and if you google the PCI\VEN_xxxx&DEV_xxxx part along with the word 'driver'
the results should include somewhere to download the drivers without having to install software like 'driver detective'.

Sometimes when the LAN adapter is onboard, the chipset driver (typically just an .inf. file) tells windows what driver it needs.

I never saw an answer to the 32/64 query, or I would've added a link like
ftp://europe.asrock.com/drivers/all/Lan/Broadcom_Win7-6...(v14.8.4.1_64Bit).zip
assuming a 'youngster' can post links. :-)
a c 88 V Motherboard
September 3, 2012 2:02:09 AM

Darr247 said:
NB you don't want residue from this stuff anywhere near a paint shop.

The "fun" cleanup is a trademark of silicone-based pastes. The stuff just seems to get everywhere since silicon grease likes to spread and stick very much.
Anonymous
September 3, 2012 5:06:09 PM

I did what you said Darr247. No devices are shown in the "Problem Devices" section.

I'm running 64bit Windows.
September 3, 2012 9:50:33 PM

Anonymous said:
I did what you said Darr247. No devices are shown in the "Problem Devices" section.


Then the onboard NIC is not being detected by windows; Your RMA/swap should fix it up.

If what they send you is the exact same unit, when you replace the current motherboard the onboard NIC should be detected the first time it boots, with the drivers previously installed then found and used. i.e. you shouldn't need to install windows yet again.



I'm running 64bit Windows. said:
I'm running 64bit Windows.


The link I posted previously should be the latest available for 64-bit (as noted by jaquith), if they're newer than provided on the disk that came with the board.
Anonymous
September 4, 2012 3:39:22 PM

Darr247 said:
If what they send you is the exact same unit, when you replace the current motherboard the onboard NIC should be detected the first time it boots, with the drivers previously installed then found and used. i.e. you shouldn't need to install windows yet again.


That is what I was going to ask. I was not sure if I would be able to do that. Thanks for the info :)  .
Anonymous
September 5, 2012 5:25:55 PM

I finished reassembling my PC with the new motherboard in just under two hours (which is impressive for me considering it took me about 4 hours last time). It turns out that the LAN socket was defective. I am writing this message on my new PC. Thanks for all the help guys!
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 5, 2012 6:17:56 PM

Anonymous said:
It turns out that the LAN socket was defective. I am writing this message on my new PC. Thanks for all the help guys!

No surprise and very VERY glad to see! :sol: 

Each time you build, to a point, it gets faster and most importantly better.

Quote:
Installing a NIC shouldn't be that difficult. So an RMA makes good sense at this point -- you tried.
Anonymous
September 6, 2012 6:50:39 AM

I am having a new problem now with the restart button. Every time I pres the button, it causes my PC to crash and freeze. It is not that big a deal, but is there any reason for this and any way to fix it?
a c 88 V Motherboard
September 6, 2012 12:03:48 PM

If by "restart button" you mean reset or power button, maybe you plugged the switches on the wrong jumpers.
a c 717 V Motherboard
September 6, 2012 1:13:51 PM

I agree, I would reexamine all of my Front Panel connections. In the back of my mind I'd keep an eye on your PSU. Odd behavior and short lived components are often attributed to a bad PSU.
Anonymous
September 6, 2012 1:50:55 PM

I already checked the connections. Everything is plugged in correctly. It just instantly freezes my PC as soon as I press it. And it is the front reset button. The power button works fine. I have an idea of what it could be. I will have to wait till I get home to check it though.
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