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Gamer Girl seeks advice on New Build!

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September 5, 2011 3:45:32 PM

Alright, so, below I have listed the build my friend and I worked on. I'm somewhat tech savvy, though have never actually built a computer myself, so I'm throwing this out there to see if anyone has any further thoughts or comments. Bit worried that I'll get overwhelmed putting it all together but many people have reassured me it isn't -THAT- difficult.

Also, what sort of tools am I going to need to put this together? Can I get any type of phillips screwdriver should work? The case I'm getting is supposedly pretty user friendly. I already have the rest of the peripherals that I typically use. (keyboard, mouse, monitor, etc) I put a comment beneath any item I'm particularly worried about.


Case = $190 Corsair Obsidian Series 650D
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

SSD = $220 OCZ Vertex 3 120G - Is SSD hard to configure or use? Some feedback on newegg said there are sometimes firmware problems with this drive?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...


GPU = $335 EVGA GeForce GTX 570 HD DoubleShot 1280MB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...

CPU = $220 Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) - Went with the i5 instead of the i7 to save $100 as it supposedly works JUST as well for gaming.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Mobo = $133 ASUS P8Z68-V LE LGA 1155 - Not an incredibly expensive MOBO but it seems to have everything I'll need for this build.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

DVD = $19 LITE-ON DVD Burner
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...

PSU = $85 CORSAIR Enthusiast Series 650W - Was told 650W would be fine for this build.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...

Memory = $55 G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...

Hard Drive = $90 Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache - Going to use this as storage, running my Windows on the SSD itself. Can still load stuff from the regular HD in the 'My Computer' section while running OS on SSD, right?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...

OS = $92 Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...
September 5, 2011 3:55:03 PM

All in all it looks to be a pretty solid build. You can swap out the HDD to the Samsung Spinpoint and save some money, the performance is pretty similar. Most of the other stuff would all come down to preference.
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September 5, 2011 4:02:01 PM

clockw0rk said:

Case = $190 Corsair Obsidian Series 650D
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

SSD = $220 OCZ Vertex 3 120G - Is SSD hard to configure or use? Some feedback on newegg said there are sometimes firmware problems with this drive?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...


GPU = $335 EVGA GeForce GTX 570 HD DoubleShot 1280MB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...



Hard Drive = $90 Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache - Going to use this as storage, running my Windows on the SSD itself. Can still load stuff from the regular HD in the 'My Computer' section while running OS on SSD, right?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...


Looks like a great build, but there are some tweaks of course :) 

You'll only need some basic tools that you can find around the house.

I would go with a cheaper case, that is also just as good, second, you will need a better HSF if you really want to OC that i5. You need to make sure that your SSD has the latest firmware installed BEFORE installing the OS on it. You do this by popping it into your "other" PC via SATA and install the "OCZ Toolbox" and go from there.

Here's a GREAT link that shows the PROPER way to install your Heat-Sink. Select your CPU from the list.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_application_method.ht...

Don't forget a SATA cable for your DVD drive.

I would also consider going with 2x Radeon HD 6950's as you can "unlock" them to become 6970's, and 6970's in CFX = a HD 6990 which is $700 lol :D 

If you wanna go that route, you'll also need a beefier PSU, which I always recommend to get since it will be future proof.

Also, "Yes" you can access your stuff on the HDD just fine.

GPU: (Crossfire) 2x XFX Radeon HD 6950 2GB Dual Mini-DisplayPort $495/AR (TigerDirect-Allows 2x Rebates!)These also have dual BIOS so you can "unlock" them to be 6970's for FREE! CF 6970's = HD 6990 which is ~$750
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...

PSU: 1000W COOLER MASTER Silent Pro $130/AR (Newegg) Do NOT skimp on this! Remember, PSU's run most efficient at 80% or less.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


Case: GAMMA Classic Series ATX Mid Tower $35 (Amazon) (Yes, the GPU's will fit!) Can support 6x fans, but only 5 will fit due to HSF.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UDK9U6

HSF: Cooler Master Hyper 212+ $27 (Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0

Additional PWM 120mm Fan (Push/Pull) $9 (Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030DL37I

PWM Fan 4 Pin Y Cable $8 (Amazon)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OFP6QW

2x 140mm Case Fans $18 (Amazon) These are "Rifle Bearing" Don't get sleeve bearing.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039825LW

2x 120mm Case Fans $14 (Amazon) These are "Rifle Bearing" Don't get sleeve bearing.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039825LM

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September 5, 2011 4:03:59 PM

SSD's are not that hard to use and you don't always upgrade the firmware unless you are having problems , if it is your boot drive just make sure it is listed in the boot sequence as the first option.
Memory is so incredibly cheap right now that if it is at all possible you can up that from 8 to 12 or 16 gb and you won't be sorry.
The power supply is probably enough to run what you have but if you upgrade in the future like say another video card and do sli you don't want to have to upgrade the psu as well so if you were to up your selection to a 750 that should cover you. It is always better to have too much than too little.
Of course I don't know what kind of budget you have but if there is room you could consider the sugestions.Very few tools are needed , phillips and regular screwdriver , small pair of pliers and a pair of needle nose pliers will come in handy for dropped screws in a hard to reach place.
Everything looks good with your selections and good luck with your build.
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September 5, 2011 4:04:55 PM

It does look pretty good, I would however think about investing in after-market cooling. I know on Toms they have a well written article articulating which cooler they used to OC th 2500k. While the stock cooler may be okay, you obviously bought the 2500K for it's overclock potential, that being said, aftermarket cooling is wise.

Also concerning tools, typically I use a long #2 phillips screwdriver. You can get one that ratchets but I've found it's not that time consuming for just building one machine. You may not need it now, but get some canned air, it's super useful for routinely blowing the dust out of your system.
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September 5, 2011 6:13:01 PM

Your MoBo choice eliminates SLI as a future option. I'd suggest one of the following ..... as I see it, Z68 offers no benefit for you

http://www.ukgamingcomputers.co.uk/difference-between-h...

Quote:
The only real advantage is for users that wish to access the HD graphics features such as quick sync, but considering it’s only supported by very few transcoding programs and there are not many people out there that need or will want to transcode, it makes it almost pointless to choose Z68 over a P67 chipset.

Finally, another feature of a Z68 chipset is known as SSD caching which is where it allows the use of a small (say 10 or 20 GB) Solid state hard drive to act as a cache for a larger ‘traditional’ hard disk. If you are already planning the use of a Solid State drive this feature is redundant.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

For PSU, many units from Corsair, Antec, Seasonic etc get 9.5 performance ratings from jonnyguru but none that are this inexpensive. Get a 750 watter for up to two 560's, 850 watter for up to two 570's, 650 watter fro a single GFX card

$85 750 watts http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$90 850 watts http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

For GFX, Id opt for twin 900 MHz 560 Ti's .... it gives a 65% increase in performance for a 37% increase in GFX card price.....or a 65% increase in performance for a 9% increase in system price. These cards easily OC to 1000MHz, most of the time w/ no voltage increase.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I'd either save $35 and get the Spinpoint F3 ($10 off w/ promo code EMCKBGK32, ends 9/5 )
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

or upgrade to the Barracuda XT for $60
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

For the RAM, I'd recommend something w/o the taller heat sinks

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submi...|20-233-196^20-233-196-TS%2C20-233-186^20-233-186-TS%2C20-226-219^20-226-219-TS

I'd suggest a CPU cooler to take the 2500 to 4.6 - 4.8 GHz. Here's some of the best

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_conten...

Typing from a system (my son's) w/ twin 900 Mhz 560's, Vertex 3 and Barracuda XT .... boots in 15.6 seconds off SSD, 21.2 seconds off HD.




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September 5, 2011 6:25:19 PM

JackNaylorPE said:
Your MoBo choice eliminates SLI as a future option. I'd suggest one of the following ..... as I see it, Z68 offers no benefit for you

http://www.ukgamingcomputers.co.uk/difference-between-h...

Quote:
The only real advantage is for users that wish to access the HD graphics features such as quick sync, but considering it’s only supported by very few transcoding programs and there are not many people out there that need or will want to transcode, it makes it almost pointless to choose Z68 over a P67 chipset.

Finally, another feature of a Z68 chipset is known as SSD caching which is where it allows the use of a small (say 10 or 20 GB) Solid state hard drive to act as a cache for a larger ‘traditional’ hard disk. If you are already planning the use of a Solid State drive this feature is redundant.



You've been misinformed about Virtu. When you get info, please go to the actual SOURCE.

http://www.lucidlogix.com/product-virtu1.html

This doesn't make Z68 pointless for her, unless she doesn't do any media encoding whatsoever.

Given that the P67 and Z68 are at the same price point, theres NO REASON to go with P67 now.
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September 5, 2011 7:06:39 PM

Some points:

1) Virtu is a useless feature for a gamer. You are fine to get a motherboard that has it, but you won't use the feature with an addon gaming card.

2) SSD: That's a fine drive. There is update software at OCZ which is pretty simple to do.

3) second drive: I recommend that you have a second hard drive, size depending on usage. I use mine for Backup images of Windows (Acronis True Image), Video, audio, downloads and GAMES. I have a STEAM games folder and manually installed GAMES folder on my hard drive instead of my SSD. If you don't think all your games will exceed 30GB then install to the SSD, however I'll WARN YOU that Windows will install to around 35GB or less but will quickly get to 60GB due to internal backups, updates and programs.

Your 120GB drive is about 110GB usable, but you should never install to more than 80% capacity as the drive will slowly use space over time (takes years) due to an algorithm that blocks off memory as it wears out.

A Western Digital 1TB or 2TB internal 3.5" GREEN hard drive is a good choice for this.

4) NCIX is a great online store.

5) RAM amount?
There is a very, very small benefit to 8GB over 4GB and that benefit is probably only noticed when loading a game (may save 15% of the time). Feel free to choose 8GB but don't go above it as it only adds heat and noise.

There is no noticeable in-game benefit to going beyond 4GB so the benefit of 8GB vs 4GB is incredibly small and only for a matter of seconds when loading or unloading a large game.

6) SLI or Crossfire:
A recent, extensive article here at Tomshardware recommends not getting multiple GPU's (includes single card with two GPU's). Basically you can "save" money and get higher frame rates such as a 2xGTX560 instead of 2xGTX580 but the micro-stuttering is annoying and destroys the advantage of the higher frame rates.

7) New graphics cards:
- AMD Q4 2011
- NVidia Q2 2012
(I STRONGLY suggest that you wait on the graphics card at least, or the entire build and get one of the above cards. Claims are made of up to 3x the performance but I believe the actual overall card performance would be closer to 2x. This still means FAR, FAR quieter cards and the ability to build higher-performing ones than present.

Basically, I'd wait for either the new AMD 7000 series or NVidia 600 series and get one with at least 1200MB of VRAM that performances better than a GTX570, prices depending.)
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September 5, 2011 7:15:21 PM

Other points:
1) case:
I was very happy with my Antec 100 case which was only $45 on sale. It has two fans (use lowest speed), cable management and a tray on top.

If you get the Antec 100 you must know two things:
a) the entire front section unclips (wasn't in my instructions)
b) the motherboard heatsink must not go above the top of the motherboard (that is rare, but if it goes too high it hits the top fan. Look at the motherboard picture).

2) POWER SUPPLIES:
It is not just WATTAGE that you should consider. It is also AMPERAGE. You want at least 1.25x the Amps that the graphics required. For example, if a PSU says it supplies 48Amps (on the +12V rail or combined rails) then you can easily handle a GTX570 which requires 38Amps.

Antec has some good sales, but there are several good power supplies.

There are several good online calculators for Wattage; if in doubt with a single graphics card (don't get multiple. see above on micro-stutter) get at least 650W PSU.
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September 5, 2011 8:00:28 PM

Just use a Ahem ''backup copy'' of windows 7 and buy a nice cpu cooler or more fans for the cash
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September 5, 2011 9:43:20 PM

Just my 2 cents.
HDD I prefer the Samsung F3, use to recommend wd blacks. Almost no benefit using SATA III as the only increase in performance is burst mode.

SSD If Plug and Pray is your gamble then go with the vertex 3, Myself M4. Have 2 m4s and two Agility 3. YES there is a good chance you will need to update the Fireware (espeacially if Vertex 3 which is @ 2.11). Yes I have updated firmware on both. M4 was a snap, donwloaded Iso and booted to CD. Vertex 3, You must use AHCI in bios and as the controller, ie if you have installed the RST ver 10.x and are using iaSTor you need to switch and on a 2nd machine. Alternative is to use a linix boot CD and OCZ sends you off to another site that you have to register. Vertex 3 is very good with compressable data, but in day-to-day usage you will will see very litlle real diff, and that is ASSUMING your vertex 3 runs as advertized. In cas you have not quessed, I'm not a fan of OCZ nor do I recommend their _______ (file in blank).

As to the P67 vs Z68. I always go with the Z68. For a New build, if have no problems getting Video, You've wasted $15. But (And looking at the Posts there are a number) if No video on first power up You have PSU, Memory, MB (rarely CPU), and GPU. With the Z68 you have already eiliminated the GPU. In fact I used the IGP to Run memtest68 (Always do this before loading operating system, Load win 7 and get it all up and running, check system out, ie run Prime 95 to verify temps and voltages. Finally, everythin is OK now install GPUs. Also Should the GPU fail, you have a fall back (HD3000) until replaced.

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September 5, 2011 10:18:07 PM

Slightly misinformed about the SSD here. If you use an ssd you NEED to use ahci or raid, otherwise TRIM wont work and the drive will be slower then mechanical after a little time. So even if you get the M4, put it in ahci or raid.

If you go with OCZ, update the firmware so you do not have any problems. The bad rep OCZ got with their 3 series came from firmware incompatibility with intel RTS, but thats solved.
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September 5, 2011 10:41:09 PM

^ Not totally, based on OCZ forum (Ref version 2.11)
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September 5, 2011 11:12:22 PM

RetiredChief said:
^ Not totally, based on OCZ forum (Ref version 2.11)


Ah, my mistake, thought it was fixed with 2.09, worked for me.
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September 6, 2011 3:00:40 AM

OCZ SSDs are finicky. Some get lucky and others don't. I was one of the lucky/unlucky ones (kind of inbetween). Lucky that it never gave a BSOD; unlucky that it crashes every couple of weeks. Up to firmware 2.08 and mostly stable with the odd crash. I still don't think it warrants the update to 2.11. I'm running a Agility 3 60GB SSD only as a boot device and nothing else.

For the HDD, I would follow what others have said. Go for something cheaper. If it's strictly going to be for storage you can get away with a WD Green drive. I have quite a bit of HDDs in my rig. Basically 250GB for programs, 250GB for My Docs, 750GB misc (backups, media, storage, etc) and a 1TB Cavier Blue for Gaming.

Definitely invest in an aftermarket cooler if you're getting the 2500k. This thing's meant to be OC'd. Otherwise it's pointless to get it.
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September 6, 2011 3:09:07 AM

2.09 was not recommended UNLESS you had problems. As with 2.11 it resolved some individuals that had problems by reducing performance. Apparentaly some of the issues revolve around timing. Also some blame I guess goes to Intel RST and MB manuf, according to OCZ - Not sure.
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September 11, 2011 4:12:41 PM

Alright, so I have a problem with the rig I bought, posted above and I'll copy at the end of this message. Its the exact same build as my original post, except added a hyper 212. Everything booted up and ran right away, I _left out the HDD_ as someone suggested and only left my SSD drive plugged in. I used SATA6G_0 for the SSD and intended on plugging the HDD into SATA6G_1

Windows recognized my SSD in absence of my HDD immediately, so I thought great, and installed everything. I cannot remember if I partitioned the drive or not during installation, not sure if that might be the problem. However, it installed perfectly fine, I've been using it the past day or two, installing a few games and whatnot. This morning, I decided to plug in my HDD as well, to start saving more storage to the 1TB HDD rather than the 120G SSD. However, the moment I plugged the HDD into SATA6G_1 and booted up, the bios no longer recognizes my SSD.

Baffled, I fiddled with a few settings but couldn't figure out how to recognize my SSD. So, I installed windows 7 again on my HDD and have come here, looking for some help. I cannot see the SSD in disk management of windows 7 either, but it might be recognized in Device Manager, not entirely sure.

Case = $190 Corsair Obsidian Series 650D
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6811139006

SSD = $220 OCZ Vertex 3 120G - Is SSD hard to configure or use? Some feedback on newegg said there are sometimes firmware problems with this drive?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6820227706


GPU = $335 EVGA GeForce GTX 570 HD DoubleShot 1280MB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6814130684

CPU = $220 Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) - Went with the i5 instead of the i7 to save $100 as it supposedly works JUST as well for gaming.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6819115072

Mobo = $133 ASUS P8Z68-V LE LGA 1155 - Not an incredibly expensive MOBO but it seems to have everything I'll need for this build.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6813131773

DVD = $19 LITE-ON DVD Burner
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6827106289

PSU = $85 CORSAIR Enthusiast Series 650W - Was told 650W would be fine for this build.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6817139020

Memory = $55 G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6820231314

Hard Drive = $90 Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache - Going to use this as storage, running my Windows on the SSD itself. Can still load stuff from the regular HD in the 'My Computer' section while running OS on SSD, right?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6822136284

OS = $92 Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6832116986

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September 11, 2011 7:58:36 PM

Quote:
Go into the bios and make sure the SSD has its boot priority set right (first)

switch the ssd sata cable to a different port on the mobo


Basically, you install the SSD and put the os on it, then you hook up the hdd and go immediately to the boot menu selection and set the OS (ssd) as first boot with the hdd being second boot.. Once that is set then the drives should work no problem.

One issue I had was plugging my sata cable into one of the side ports on the mobo instead of a port that goes directly into the mobo which would cause one of my drives to stop being detected.

If that doesn't fix.. I suggest switching the sata cables around and seeing if one of them is bad.

Thats all I can think of that would help.


The SSD isn't recognized in BIOS now for some reason, so what you suggest is impossible in terms of pointing the SSD to boot. Will try switching which port its plugged into.
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September 11, 2011 8:32:04 PM

No idea what is going on now, I swapped the ports my HDD/SDD are plugged into and then it started showing the SSD in disk management, saw it in the BIOS too. Could navigate files on the SSD while using win7 on the HDD, but when I tried to boot from the SSD it gives me an error 'BOOTMGR not detected/installed' or something. But then, I restarted a few more times trying to get it to boot and the SSD has vanished, not detected by BIOS or disk management. Do I have a broken drive?
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September 11, 2011 9:16:38 PM

"Girl" in title = 10 or 11 separate responders.

:lol:  :ouch:  :na: 
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September 11, 2011 9:17:21 PM

I've changed how I want it to boot, the SSD drive has not shown up in bootable devices even when it was recognized by the BIOS/Disk management ever since I plugged in the HDD. Its not that I'm not pointing it to the wrong boot device, trust me. It's just not being recognized more than half the time and won't allow me to boot even when it is.
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September 11, 2011 10:51:52 PM

Quote:
Do you know if the HDD works?


Yes, I'm on it right now, installed win7 on the HDD as I mentioned before so I could get it up and running at least.
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September 12, 2011 3:13:52 AM

clockw0rk,

What colour port do you have the SSD in? Is it in the gray port?

From my understanding, you are saying that the OCZ SSD is not being seen in BOTH BIOS and Windows.

When this problem occurred, did you try to remove the HDD to see if the SSD can be recognized again? If it is seen, then try connecting the HDD to the blue port (but use the SATA II (3GB/s) cable. But before loading anything, go into BIOS and see if both drives are active and seen.
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Best solution

September 12, 2011 4:47:20 PM

And you thought I was Kidding about OCZ = "Plug & Pray"
A couple of options:
(1) Return and buy a Marvel based SSD such as curcial's M4. It may not be the fastes based on "Benchees" but in day-to-day usage I dought you will see a difference. Last week some one else was having problems with their OCZ SF22xx drive, Per my recommendation he R&R ed the drive with the M4 and is very Happy.

(2) Plug the SSD in to the first sata 6 port (Your HDD disconnected). See if Windows Installation disk will show it (Select custom install). If it does then DELETE all Partions. Once you have deleted all partitions EXIT windows install!!. Leaving the SSD connected reconnect your HDD and with the sata port set to AHCI boot to Win 7 from HDD. Go to OCZ website and down load the Toolbox. Open the toolbox and do a secure erease also update the SSD firmware to newest version (I think it is 2.11). Then Disconnect the HDD and try installation. If You can not, Then try their linix boot disk approach. READ there procedure and follow it!!!. If neither works then: (A) RMA the drive, or if possible return and replace (My #1 option).
If you can not do this. Then down load
Share
September 12, 2011 7:52:12 PM

As I said, a user is not going to notice a diff in day-to-day operations.
So the choice is M4 as MUCH less probmatic
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September 13, 2011 3:23:48 AM

Best answer selected by clockw0rk.
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September 13, 2011 3:35:46 AM

RetiredChief said:
And you thought I was Kidding about OCZ = "Plug & Pray"
A couple of options:
(1) Return and buy a Marvel based SSD such as curcial's M4. It may not be the fastes based on "Benchees" but in day-to-day usage I dought you will see a difference. Last week some one else was having problems with their OCZ SF22xx drive, Per my recommendation he R&R ed the drive with the M4 and is very Happy.

(2) Plug the SSD in to the first sata 6 port (Your HDD disconnected). See if Windows Installation disk will show it (Select custom install). If it does then DELETE all Partions. Once you have deleted all partitions EXIT windows install!!. Leaving the SSD connected reconnect your HDD and with the sata port set to AHCI boot to Win 7 from HDD. Go to OCZ website and down load the Toolbox. Open the toolbox and do a secure erease also update the SSD firmware to newest version (I think it is 2.11). Then Disconnect the HDD and try installation. If You can not, Then try their linix boot disk approach. READ there procedure and follow it!!!. If neither works then: (A) RMA the drive, or if possible return and replace (My #1 option).
If you can not do this. Then down load



Option 2 worked for me, posting from a freshly installed win7 on the OCZ SSD. I followed your advise exactly, deleted partitions, left windows, ran OCZ toolbox from win7 on the HDD, secure erased, updated firmware. Ran win7 installation, partitioned SSD (it made 2 system reserved, one of which was WBM), it installed and now both my drives are detected and at least for the moment, running smoothly. Thanks Chief.
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September 13, 2011 12:27:27 PM

clockw0rk
Great - ENJOY
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!