My Newest Build

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mrwhit30ut

mrwhit30ut

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Ordering my friends PC in about a week, How do the specs look. Keeping it somewhere around $1000. What should I change if anything.

Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz $179.99

EVGA GTX 570 $329.99

GIGABYTE GA-Z68X-UD3-B3 LGA 1155 $154.99

G.Skill Ripjaws 8GB (2x4GB) $59.99

Xigmatech Dark Night $39.99

Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-750 $94.99

Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200RPM $59.99

Thermaltake Chaser MK-I $127.99

SAMSUNG 22X DVD±R DVD Burner $17.99

Windows 7 Home Premium OEM $99.99
$1,165.90
Rebates: $70.00
Total: $1095.90

And please this is toward mostly the senior members so don't be saying stuff like, "Your build sucks", and "Why would you spend money on that ***". Please none of that just nice clean suggestions.
 
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mrwhit30ut

mrwhit30ut

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Thats what i like to HEAR! I've spent so long on this build you wouldn't beleve. Its for one of my best friends and I also would like to know if he has room to OC the GPU and/ or the Intel I5. I'm pretty sure that the mobo allows it but I want to hear from the community.
 
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hellfire24

hellfire24

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$40 for heatsink is not a good deal.i mean that cooler is good but you can go for a hyper 212+ with a good fan to make push pull configuration.this is going to be a hell better than dark knight IMO.a few days ago my friend suggested me.for example you may try this -
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-B10-212P-G1-Universal-Heat-Pipe/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=br_lf_m_193870011_1_4_ttl?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=electronics&pf_rd_p=1318425922&pf_rd_s=center-11&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=193870011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1CFVEPRP5P1DJAXRJ0X9
AND
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091

i think amazon is available for you if not 212+ costs $30 on newegg,and $10 for sickflow is best solution for overclocking as well as silence.
 
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mrwhit30ut

mrwhit30ut

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Yea, I saw that too. Does anyone know of any good and cheap modular PSWs I could use? I really am ocd about cable management and I love to see the effects of a good cable management job.If you have any feedback I would really like to hear it. Its still needs to have enough watts to overclock but, it'd be really nice to get one now so i don't have to spend more money later.
 
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RedJaron

RedJaron

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Looks overall solid. But I'd also change the CPU cooler. The Xigmatek Gaia and CM 212 are $10 less ( granted you don't get a card reader or rebate, ) and they perform just as well. Both can hang a fan on either side if you really want a push-pull config. Granted you won't get your blue theme with those, but then again I go for function over form every time. I can say that my Gaia clears my Ripjaws X, so the normal Ripjaws shouldn't have a clearance problem there ( unless you want independent RAM cooling. )

I'm more of an ATi/AMD graphics guy since the cards tend to run on less juice, but that's just me.
 
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B

beenthere

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As far as PSUs are concerned, be informed. Before you buy any PSU read accurate, objective PSU reviews at reputable sites such as www.jonnyguru.com or www.hardwaresecrets.com on the EXACT model PSU that you are interested in as some brands have good and poor quality PSUs.

You can also get an accurate rating of how much PSU power is required for your current or future system at the PSU calculator link below. Once you know the total PSU watts required then you need to confirm that the 12v rail has enough amps. to support your Vid card(s) and the rest of the PC system.

There are several websites that show the Vid card power consumption in watts. Divide the watts by 12 to determine the amps. required on the 12v rail(s). Add 15 amps for the rest of the PC on the 12v rail and you now know the Minimum total 12v rail amps required under full load. It's best to have at least 5-10 amps. reserve on the 12v rail available under full load so the PSU is not loaded to 100%.
It's also worth noting that people often misunderstand the 80% power rating. This is a rating of the PSU's energy efficiency not it's output. 80% plus PSUs use less grid power to produce the same PC power. If it's 80% Bronze, Silver or Gold the cost savings on electricity is pretty small between Bronze, Silver and Gold unless you are paying very high rates for electricity so any 80% rated quality PSU is fine even if not Gold. For those who leave their PC on 24/7 a quality 80% PSU is a good investment.


http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-560-ti-sli-review/14

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/GeForce_GTX_560_Ti/25.html

 
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mrwhit30ut

mrwhit30ut

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Beenthere, I am really confused on your comment, 3rd paragraph. I just kind of lost your thinking. If you could slow it down for me a bit that would be good. You just zipped through it so fast, it seemed confusing.
 
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RedJaron

RedJaron

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Check Tom's Article on PSUs, it might clear some things up for you. If I understand it correctly, which I think I do, here are the main points: ( bear with me if you already know some of this, I'm not trying to talk down to you. )

Check the PSU label, here's an example from that article.
supply_01.png


First, I'm assuming you know that voltage x amperage = watts, right? Just checking. In that image, look at the row of +12V boxes. Under each of them is an 18A, meaning each +12V line can carry up to 18A or 216W ( international standards say they can't exceed 20A. ) However, the long box under that shows that all +12V lines together can't draw more than 41A or 492 W ( so at most you can max out two lines at 432W and have a little left over for the other two. ) So from that 492W, subtract the watts required by your CPU ( 100 in the case of the i5, though OC'ing it will marginally raise that, ) then subtract enough for the rest of your system ( mboard, drives, and fans rarely go above 100W total. ) I then generally subtract 10% of the PSU's rating to give a good buffer zone, so 55W in this case. So continuing this example above, 492W - 100W( CPU ) - 100W( rest of system ) - 55W( buffer zone ) leaves you with 237W for a GPU. That's enough for a single card, but a second GPU would be too much for the PSU ( most current cards are 150W or more. )

The reason for the buffer is that PSUs work the best when they're operating at 50% - 80% of their maximum load, so an 800W PSU would work best if it's feeding 400W - 640W. This is where it's most efficient ( power it's feeding to the computer / power it's drawing from the outlet. ) Most PSUs are very inefficient under low loads ( under 20%, ) and they start to lose efficiency as you approach 100% load ( though the drop off is not as great as the low end. ) So example: if your PSU is under a 50% load at 400W and it's running at 80% efficiency, the 400W is 80% of the electricity it's pulling from the outlet, meaning it's actually running on 500W at the time.

That's what the 80 Plus certification means. It basically means the PSU will be at least 80% efficient at a load greater than 20%, though many 80 Plus models can actually hit 90% efficiency in certain load ranges, usually 70% - 90% load.

That help? Again, I'm not trying to talk down to anyone, I just didn't know how much you already knew so I broke it down to the absolute basics.

If you want a GTX 570, those cards run about 220W. So strictly speaking, a good 550W PSU could power this system for you, but it'd be at its limit. If you ever want SLI, or even to upgrade the card, you'd have to change your PSU as well. With that in maind, I'd recommend a 750W PSU as the bare minimum for you. If you want the PSU to last a while, maybe even through two GPU SLI upgrades, I'd consider an 850W instead.
 
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mrwhit30ut

mrwhit30ut

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Thank you for that red, but I'm tight on funds and tight on time. So Would a 650 work to OC this system and if I go SLI i will probably be upgrading my psu to modular anyway. So main question can I OC this system with a 650W PSU, and What are some good PSU brands you know of. Right now on this build I do have a 750 W but I would like to lower the price but I cant really find one that is good. If you know of any your input would be great. That comment was fantastic there was much in there I did not know.
 
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RedJaron

RedJaron

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Truth be told, I'm not current on most PSU brands and their reliability, I just know how to crunch the numbers. The brands I do hear come up again and again are Antec ( which I've used for over 15 years, ) Corsair, and FSP ( which I just bought, ) with Seasonic usually considered the absolute best.

Judging from the test here ( which uses an OD'd i7-980x which is more power hungry than an i5, ) Your system won't go over 350W actual usage. So if you want that to be in the 80% load butter zone, you're looking at a 450W PSU ( that's judging solely on numbers, so if someone can correct me on this PLEASE say so. ) But I'm pretty sure I'm right considering the recent SPM build used an Antec EarthWatts EA-430D Green PSU just fine. Admittedly that system has a 170W Radeon 6870 rather than your 220W GTX 570, but even adding an additional 50W won't blow the PSU's limits of 430W. Just realize that PSU won't be able handle any further upgrades. If you want a little extra peace of mind, try the 500W model.
 
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mrwhit30ut

mrwhit30ut

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