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Is this bad, or good?

Last response: in Components
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December 23, 2011 10:21:39 PM

Im running a ATX350A 350-400WATT PSU (exact W and TDP isn't on the info)


I have a Pentium D 930 (125WATT)
NVidia GTS 450 (400WATT PSU Recommended)
4Gigabytes Kingston 800Mhz DDR3 RAM
Seagate 7200RPM 500GB SATA Hard drive.
I don't know the Motherboard. (775 Socket though...)

This rig above has been running for 4 months now, after my 500WATT OKIA Power supply quit...
A orange light flashes on my I\O lights and it won't boot or anything of such and it doesn't smell, no burning of such either. And recently a 400WATT burnt out on me... but this 350\400WATT ATX350A trooper
has no current smell or burning inside. I do high end gaming, Crysis 2, Battlefield 3, BC2, ARMA2\ARMA2OA\CO and such. Highest graphics if I get a decent frame rate. I game a lot.


What I just bought off newegg...

AMD Phenom II X3 720 BE OEM AM3 Socket.(95 WATT)
4Gigabytes 1333Mhz AMD Entertainment DDR3
BIOSTAR A780L3B AM3 AMD 760G Micro ATX

Would my power supply be able to support me until February with high-end gaming? My above rig will arrive Monday or Tuesday.



More about : bad good

a c 80 ) Power supply
December 23, 2011 10:30:16 PM

It should since it is running the video card you have now and I assume you are going to continue to use it. As far as asking if it going to continue to work is anybodys guess but it sure looks like it will. If it doesn't then just get a new one , you are going to want to get another one eventually.
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a b ) Power supply
December 24, 2011 3:59:22 AM

People are often confused about PSU power choices.

In general, there are two power choices one makes:

1) the overall WATTAGE of the PSU (use an online calculator)
2) the AMPERAGE required by the graphics card (the +12V rail)

#1 is easy. Simply plug in your parts into an online calculator and see the WATTAGE (i.e. 600Watts)

#2 is more complicated. For example, if you had a GTX570 you might require 38Amps minimum on the +12V rail. A good PSU should list this value and also include it on the SIDE of the PSU itself.

If there are multiple +12V rails you use the COMBINED value. You don't actually add them up yourself.

You need to be very careful about choosing a PSU. Always get a quality brand, with good reviews that needs your Wattage (and Amperage) needs.

Summary:
I didn't know your PSU details so you'll need to figure it out. If you know how to calculate the required Wattage and Amperage you can often save a lot of money. For example, many people get 1000Watt systems to be "on the safe side" when a 600Watt PSU with the required graphics Amperage might cost $100 instead of $250.

Calculate the Wattage and Amperage, read reviews, look for sales.. Modular or not? Don't forget overclocking the CPU can add a lot of power (a good online calculator allows for this).

Example:
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=59617&vpn=P1750SNLB9&...

This PSU is on sale at NCIX (Canada) for $80 after MIR. Note that the +12V rail for the graphics card provides 62Amps which is very good for the price. A GTX570 needs about 38Amps. Note that it wouldn't be enough for TWO (SLI) GTX570's.

A lot of information here but I hope it makes sense. The PSU is arguably the most important part of your computer. PSU issues can cause complete failure (even fire) or annoying, intermittent problems. A poor choice of PSU can destroy parts outright (like the motherboard) or do it slowly.

Again, let's summarize:
1) Total Wattage (online calculator. Account for overclocking.)
2) Amperage for +12V rail (for graphics card. Can be hard to find this specification. If in doubt contact the graphics card manufacturer.)
3) Read customer reviews.
4) Professional reviews are fine but may indicate a PSU isn't the best deal, though it might be a GREAT deal if the price is right.
5) Sales, sales, sales.
6) Modular or not.

(Other. I got the Antec 100 case on sale for $40 and love it. It allows you to hide a lot of the PSU cables on the right side as well as hard drive cables.)
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