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New build 800-900 please advice

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October 5, 2011 2:16:26 PM

i would like to hear what do you think on the build below.
**What Motherboard are recommended with the i-2500?
Thanks!

Approximate Purchase Date: this week

Budget Range: 800-900

System Usage from Most to Least Important: (e.g.: Home:, surfing the internet,gaming, watching movies, working with 3d software ,e.g SolidWorks )

Parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, OS

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: newegg.com,

Country of Origin:

Parts Preferences: I would like to use an Intel CPU & Asus\Asrock\whatever you think fits with a 19\42" LCD and full tower case)

Overclocking: No.

SLI or Crossfire: No

Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080

Additional Comments:

Desktop Processor
Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor

cpu cooler

Motherboard
ASUS P8H67-M PRO/CSM (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel H67 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard

Memory
G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBSR

hard drive:
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

video card
SAPPHIRE 100315L Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity

power:
SeaSonic S12II 430B 430W ATX12V V2.3/EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

case:
Thermaltake Dokker Mid-Tower Computer Case Single Bay HDD Docking Station High Airflow Design VM600M1W2Z

More about : build 800 900 advice

October 5, 2011 2:28:30 PM

you might want to consider 1600 memory, it'll perform a fair bit better. you should probably get a higher wattage psu, since 430w isn't really going to be good enough for any higher end graphics cards. Also, you don't need a cpu cooler, since you're not overclocking. also, what games do you plan to play, cause you can definitely get a higher end card for your budget, maybe a 6950 or 560 ti.
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October 5, 2011 2:51:35 PM

I'm going to agree with Morgoth on the PSU especially. You chose a great power supply, but not for a system with a higher end discrete graphics card. For single card setups you should be more than safe with a 600-650 watt.

I'm going to disagree about the CPU cooler. Spending 20-30 dollars on a good aftermarket cooler will keep your machine cooler and quieter. The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is a good cheap option, although there are plenty of other good choices out there.
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October 5, 2011 3:19:29 PM

I'd go without a CPU cooler for now and see how the intel one does, there's no overclock so will be kept under control easily enough.

My Suggestion:

i5 2500k + asus p8p67 pro
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?Ite...

Corsair TX650 + corsair 8Gb 1600
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?Ite...

MSI twin frozr II GTX 560 Ti
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Samsung F3 1TB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Antec 300 illusion
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

All comes to $880 (with $35 MIR)

A few reasons behind my choices:

i5 2500k- really why not $10 isn't much and it allows you to use it later if you wish to overclock.

Asus board supports above theory and is better to than the mATX.

corsair PSU and RAM are just good standard options. I figure the heatsinks on the RAM shoudln't be a problem as you won't need an aftermarket cooler.

MSI GTX 560 Ti, just a great card.

and Antec 300 is a great case as well, with so many fans.
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October 5, 2011 4:22:16 PM

Probably sounds stupid but I would go with the F3-10666CL7D-8GBRH(XMP) found here because it's listed on the QVL for your motherboard. It was the only one I could find with 8 GB - on the list and from newegg. I checked the gskill configurator and it doesn't list your board. The QVL also doesn't list any 1600MHz memory which is really a surprise. I like to keep to the QVL because ASUS tested it and it will work in all four (4) dimms right out of the box when you're ready to upgrade. Other memory will probably work, some will need tweaking and some will not but I like to go by the GUARANTEE part because I hate returning parts and having to wait, again, for the ones that will work. Many people will tell you that almost any ddr3 memory will work on your board and they might be right. But again, I do the beginners thing and use the list.

Yes, upgrade on the psu. They usually last a good long time and if you want to upgrade down the road the power will be available. Besides, if your currently planned system uses 325 to 375 w you are already @ ~75% capacity. Not a good way to start. The video card uses maximum board power of ~170 Watts, (Benchmark reviews), by itself and the processor uses ~ 95 watts so just those two puts you close to 300w. So to be safe - and if you want Seasonic (very good and reliable brand), then maybe you could go with the SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold for $140, (I know double the price), but it's modular and has a >87% efficiency rating. If you'd don't mind non-modular then this Seasonic SS-850HT 850W for the same, well little less price of $130. You would have to do a lot of upgrades before you started putting a hurt on this bad boy. But it's close to the 650 in price so I thought I'd mention it.

As for the video card? Mostly depends on what type of games you'll wanting to be playin!! If you're doing a lot of 3d apps and graphic intense gaming you might be better off with this EVGA 01G-P3-1370-TR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi). It's the same price but looks better on the benchmarks.

CPU cooler??? The stock is OK if it is the copper heatsink with the adjustable 2 speed switch. But if you only have the regular 1 speed stock cooler and you do play or use intensively it will probably slow itself down, (thermal throttling I believe it's called), to keep from overheating. Try what you got first if you don't mind pulling it out later to change it. It looks like your case has an opening on the backplate where the cpu goes so if you remove the other side panel you have access to the cpu backside of the motherboard so you won't have to take the motherboard out to change it. Quick and easy. And I really like the hot swap sata drive on top of the case. Drop one in and it's running!!
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October 5, 2011 5:24:06 PM

Nice configuration!

You will not notice the effect of 1600 memory in gaming or most apps. So, if not OCing, don't waste money upgrading from 1333.

Your psu is high-quality and more than powerful enough for your config. In most cases, there is not enough money to be saved by buying a higher efficiency psu than "Bronze" to justify the increased purchase price. Using this data . . .

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/291

. . . if you played Crysis (274W) non-stop 6 hours per day every day for 3 years, an 87% efficient psu would save: (343W - 314W) x 6 hrs x 365 days * 3 yrs / 1000 for kwh x $0.10 per kwh = $19.05 savings. Not likely you will do that. OTOH, if you are highly eco-conscious, by all means go for it.

A larger high-quality psu may be a wise purchase if you plan to upgrade your vid card soon. But your proposed psu will run a surprising number of current vid cards just fine. And it will likely run more efficiently at idle (which most PCs actually do most of the time) than a larger unit.

Your circumstances/electricity cost may be different; if so, adjust accordingly.

If you are not overclocking, the stock cpu cooler is absolutely fine. The worst that *may* happen is the cpu won't turbo multiple cores as long as it might with a better cooler. But honestly, I doubt you will notice that in use. If the budget is tight, take that money and step up your video card a notch - it will help with minimum gaming frame rates, and that *will* be noticeable.
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October 5, 2011 10:15:34 PM

Twoboxer said:
Nice configuration!

You will not notice the effect of 1600 memory in gaming or most apps. So, if not OCing, don't waste money upgrading from 1333.

Your psu is high-quality and more than powerful enough for your config. In most cases, there is not enough money to be saved by buying a higher efficiency psu than "Bronze" to justify the increased purchase price. Using this data . . .

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/291

. . . if you played Crysis (274W) non-stop 6 hours per day every day for 3 years, an 87% efficient psu would save: (343W - 314W) x 6 hrs x 365 days * 3 yrs / 1000 for kwh x $0.10 per kwh = $19.05 savings. Not likely you will do that. OTOH, if you are highly eco-conscious, by all means go for it.

A larger high-quality psu may be a wise purchase if you plan to upgrade your vid card soon. But your proposed psu will run a surprising number of current vid cards just fine. And it will likely run more efficiently at idle (which most PCs actually do most of the time) than a larger unit.

Your circumstances/electricity cost may be different; if so, adjust accordingly.

If you are not overclocking, the stock cpu cooler is absolutely fine. The worst that *may* happen is the cpu won't turbo multiple cores as long as it might with a better cooler. But honestly, I doubt you will notice that in use. If the budget is tight, take that money and step up your video card a notch - it will help with minimum gaming frame rates, and that *will* be noticeable.


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