Okay so long story short my PSU burnt out it was a corsair 800 game edition I just got my replacement and I installed it in my case plugged every thing in took my time booted it up , checked out bios every thing goes great. I save changes and reboot and during the reboot processes the system trys to turn back on but instantly (very fast flash of power light) stops and powers off. So at this point I'm not really sure whats going on so I move to my work bench plug in and hit the power button when I do all the fans spin up for less then 1 second and all the board power leds just give off one very fast blink. Now I have found a strange solution if I hit the power button and then hit and hold reset just as the system flashes on i can make the system stay on while I keep the reset button depressed but even with this solution this does not get me to post the system stays in a pre-post state. Before any one asks I have a PSU tester and all plugs based the test. I have used several power calculators and im 200+ watts over what I need so its not that. I'v checked the power ,reset ,hdd power pins and they are all properly connected iv even tried just using power and reset that doesn't work. All plugs,pins and connectors have been double checked .Ram is properly seated and in the right slots. CPU fan spins up and is completely seated and attached properly. I have built several builds replaced more MB and CPU's then I can handle but in this situation I simply cant figure out the problem.
PS I have tested a spare set of ram and a spare vid card that doesn't need 6 pin power no dice. Unable to test CPU or MB as I don't have another AM3 socket board or cpu
MB: MSI 970A-G45
Ram: Gskill sniper 1600 mhz 1.5v 2x4gb kit
PSU: Corsair 800watt GS *all ready checked to make sure it had the proper rails and voltage*
CPU: AMD Phenom x6 * 2.8mhz *stock
Heat sink: Cooler master 212
Vid: Asus 6870 1gb
HDD:3x 500gb WD Caviar Blue
SDD:1x 60gb Corsair SDD *don't remember model number cant cpuid*
Does you mb have dual bios that you can try , I know some mb companies were building those and I'm not saying that will solve your problem but it's worth a shot at this point. I am trying to remember a similar situation that I had and I do think it was doing the same thing and I think it was a mb problem and I ended up doing a RMA on the board.
I mean I don't think the PSU fried the board cause when I just got the new MB I was able to get in to bios and poke around on first boot its just after that first attempted reboot after I changed bios settings. I really hope its not a RMA cause this would be my second one with this board. I really appreciate the community's willingness to help btw don't take my lack of acceptance of answers as arrogance I'v just tried quite a few things all ready and hopeing some one comes up with that one obscure idea that works. FYI I'm striping the system later on and doing a complete rebuild hopefully that will fix the problem or at least ill find it in the process.
I did clear the Bios ya and to be honest I didn't tweek as much as just check every thing. I recently got a hold of mother board to test and found out it was my old board I really appreciate the help from the community problem solved. Let me just say how unlucky it is to get a rma board get a replacement over night and have your PSU blow and take the new board with it lol . all in about 48 hours 2MB+PSU
Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.
Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.
I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.
You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.
If no beeps: Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.
At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire (standby power supply): 5 volts always on. The green wire should also have 5 volts on it. It should go to 0 volts when you press the case power button, then back to 5 volts when you release the case power switch. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.
The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.
A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.
This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.
If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.
Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.
Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST. At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.
Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.