What should i do about my current problem?

Details & Questions:
So i was finishing my build using my Rampage IV extreme Mobo, my intel core i7-3960X, and H100 CPU cooler. I was tightening on the last screw using the original backplate for the board since its compatible with the H100 cooler. I couldnt see how much space there was since i was replacing the cooler and already had everything else installed. It was a tight fit and i figured i was gonna have to tighten each screw a quarter turn each to push the cooling unit onto the cpu evenly. I wound up twisting off the part of the double sided screw bolt thing that holds the backplate to the cooler.

I removed the cooler and saw that the pre applied thermal compound had been squeezed onto the cpu, so i decided to keep tighten everything up again using the 3 screws that still worked until i could work on the computer again.

It has been around 36 hours now, my question is if i can replace the bracket so i can use these other double sided screw bolt things and just not touch the cooler and the cpu and not add any thermal compount, or should i clean off the thermal compound from both parts and use an old used dynex silver thermal compound stick i have, or my old unusued steel blue compound.
The Steel Blue compound says on it designed to work with PC Ice - PC Pure - Liquid Utopia - DI Water, and to visit primochill.com for mixing instructions... does that mean this stuff isnt really thermal compound that i can use on its own?

In short:
Do i just swap out the backplate and use the parts as is. Or do i clean off the thermal paste and use one of the two products mentioned in the above paragraph?
6 answers Last reply
More about what current problem
  1. You will have to replace the plate and the compound. Never heard of the blue stuff, but the Dynex should work. It is not the best, but is better than nothing. The gold standard of compounds is Arctic Silver 5. I have also used Arctic Ceramique with good success.

    I would also double check the CPU socket for bent pins. One of the hazards of the Intel socket and aftermarket. coolers.
  2. Short Version:
    So ill apply the dynex for now, and order some arctic silver 5, or should i order arctic ceramique? Which would you recommend? Any chance you know what was on my H100 cooler, or how to find out?

    Bent pins, u mean my 2011 pins cuz its an LGA socket 2011? Sorry i know a lot about the most random things and important things when it comes to computers, but theres large gaps in my computer knowledge and logic that would surprise you.

    So do people use LGA and the word socket as synonyms? And in the term or what have you, LGA 2011, does the number like LGA 1155 refer to the number of pins?

    Back to the topic, sounds like my dynex will work even though its used i have plenty, im gonna watch out for anything that clumps if thats possible, im very unfamiliar with installing cpus since i had an incident that lost me 800 bux total, thanks to some companies saying certain products worked together that didnt. Long story short took it to geek squad and they screwed me out of another 400 dollars after they fried the same board and cpu, then pulled a little switch around on me giving me a different motherboard and just denying all over that they gave me the wrong board and would not help me. I never trust geeksquad and never ever will again.

    So i have a traumatic reason almost to be afraid to install cpus without pre applied thermal compound.

    Thanks for your help :D
  3. The Artec Silver 5 compound is the best to use for cpu and heatsnk install and I would choose that over the Ceramique and the Dynex. I don't know what comes preapplied and it must be just standard thermal compound or they would have advertised that they were using something else.

    "Bent pins, u mean my 2011 pins cuz its an LGA socket 2011?"
    The pins you are refering to are the most critical thing to not damage , if you bend one pin the thing is junk , you cannot straighten it out. You have to put the cpu in and lock it down and keep it locked down unless it's absolutly necessary to unlock it and take it ouit. Swaping out heatsinks and applying and removeing thermal compoud does not require taking out the cpu from the socket.

    I guess you can use the Dynex compound that you have if you want to apply it and leave it there , but if you have intentions of using the Artec Silver then I would wait and do it once.

    "So do people use LGA and the word socket as synonyms?" Yes.

    "So i have a traumatic reason almost to be afraid to install cpus without pre applied thermal compound."
    Applying thermal paste is easy and all you need is a plastic card like a credit card and using the edge spread a thin layer , as thin as you can on the top of the cpu. I do use a credit card to do this and it makes it vary easy. You just try to make it very thin and uniform on the cpu so it looks like a sheet that is completely smooth with no grooves or holes. It can be time consuming to get it just right and you really don't have to rush it just take your time.
  4. Great so ill be ordering some arctic silver 5 over night. Yeah i figured the 2011 was the pins i just wanted to make sure. I saw a video on how to apply it, wanna get all the advice i can, dont wanna mess it up. Never installed a 2011 pin cpu but i installed a 1155 perfectly fine that i purchased with an H60 so i had no worries, its still using the same thermal compound.

    I wouldnt dream of taking out the cpu now that its in. So your saying as thin a layer as possible? I saw inn the video a nice thin layer with a credit card, enough to cover the thing neatly, no globbing, and no excess that would come out the sides. Should i cover the whole thing or avoid a tiny bit on the edges around the top surface that i will be applying this to?

    Its just a pain that im a have to remove the whole mobo after installing everything, i feel like im having to rebuild my rc car from scratch because i fucked up one screw lol.
  5. The credit card thing works well for paste. I receive these fake plastic credit cards in the mail with offers for credit, and I save those cards for just such purposes.

    The bent pins I was referring to happen when some folks over tighten the screws on after-market heatsinks. Obviously, if the CPU is working fine before the changeout, I would not remove it.

    I would double check the instructions on AS 5. I do not recall the credit card technique being mentioned for it. It was something more like just putting a small dot in the center, or a line or some such. Just go to the AS web site and select your processor and follow those instructions.

    The credit card method is for thermal paste like Ceramique. AS 5 is not a paste. It is more of a gritty liquid type affair. You'll see when you get it. In either case, I have used both types over the years with no problems, and honestly cannot tell much difference in performance. The Ceramique is usually less expensive. I tried it the first time because that was all that was available locally. More recently I found a tube of AS 5 on sale, so I got it. As I said, both have worked well.
  6. Thanks i didnt really know the difference between paste and compound or what have you. I did some research and found the best method for non dual core cpus was the grain of rice method and found several tests using different methods with solid see thru plastic to show air bubbles and the spread of paste on different cpus and using different pastes or what have u.

    Figured the best method was the line method and i didnt get anything squeezing out the sides so it seems like every thing went great. The problem was that i had to remove the cpu in order to remove the LGA 2011 back plate and install the LGA 1365 or what ever back plate so that i could use the back plate that came with my H100, since i couldnt use the LGA 2011 screws provided.

    I also tried tinting the cpu with my thermal compund since the arctic silver instructions told me to.

    I would have gone ahead and started up my computer by now but i ran into a little problem where i believe i got a drop of arcticlean thermal purifier on the bottom side of the cpu. It didnt look wet but it did discolor the bottom of the cpu a tiny bit. I was told to try using a hair dryer to liquefy what ever may be on the bottom of the cpu so it doesnt liquefy and short circuit when running the computer. Still debating what i should do about this in a thread i made.
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