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Photographers Build

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October 13, 2011 8:21:33 PM


Approximate Purchase Date: Now!

Budget Range: Would like to not spend a whole lot, but whatever fits my needs. I want something good, not cheap. But I dont want to get the best of the best.

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Photoshop, Lightroom, Illustrator. Thats it really. Not much gaming, only occasionally.

Parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, OS, power supply? (i have a 460watt one now)

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: newegg, amazon

Country of Origin: USA

Parts Preferences: not knowledgeable


Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080, and my second monitor is 1440x900 (dual)

Additional Comments: I hear that aMD came out with their new FX series. Seems to be good value? I would like to go with it if its a good fit. I use alot of design work, and right now im using a 2 core intel 2.4 ghz with 3gb ram.

Let me know whats best for me, in a moderate budget.

As for hard drive, I dont want SSD but I want something somewhat fast (alot of file transfer as a photographer) and also around 1tb. 2 would be nice.

Thanks!!

More about : photographers build

October 14, 2011 3:59:34 AM

Forgot to mention my graphics card, which I would like to keep as I bought it fairly recently:

radeon hd 5750
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October 14, 2011 4:07:10 AM

Intel Core i52500k - $219.99 / i7 2600k ($300)
ASROCK Extreme3 Gen3 $125
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB HDD $60
GSKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB DDR3 1600 2x4GB $50
Any optical drive $15-20
Cooler Master HAF 912 $60 (or a case of your choice)


Look these up on newegg or preferred site.

Bulldozer = Faildozer, wait for the next revision to buy Bulldozer, because as of now, i52500k and i72600k poops on it. Even the Thuban and older Phenom II out shine it lol



Also it helps if it specify your exact budget.

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Related resources
October 14, 2011 4:39:09 AM

I basically agree with Des74.

Photo editing sees a benefit from the hyperthreading that the 2600K offers so if you can afford the $300, go for that.

The ASRock Extreme3 Gen3 is a great board but it's more of a gaming board. Take a look at things like the ASUS P8Z68-V LE for other options. Both good boards (there are Gigabyte and MSI boards in that range, too) but take a look at the port clusters and other such features to see which you prefer.

460W is plenty for the card that you listed.
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October 14, 2011 4:48:19 AM

Thanks for the replies.

Are the bulldozers really that bad?

I compared the i5 2500k and the AMD FX-8120.

Both the same price.

Seems like the AMD has better specs?

L3 cache is 2mb larger on the AMD

AMD is 8 core 3.1 ghz
Intel is 4 core 3.3 ghz

Im confused!
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October 14, 2011 5:11:38 AM

I would dump the money into the processor and then some for the graphic cards, ONLY if you are going to be using the gpu acceleration with cs5. The i5 2500k will be enough, anything higher will be high-end marketing adds or something like 1gb files. Stick with 8gig of ram or maybe more. Also, matx boards are great for saving money and if you're not going to go OC crazy. Just know most has 2 slots for the ram. Your psu will be fine. Anything higher then these specs are overkill and probably more for gaming, specially the cpu and gpu.
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October 14, 2011 5:16:45 AM

I just bought my 5950 graphics card, i didn't want to ditch it so fast :( 

Thanks for the reply.

I just need to decide on the i5 2500k or the fx 8120. their literally the same price.
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October 14, 2011 5:44:36 AM

I would vote for i5 2500k as the benchmarks are still in favor of i5. If you can, wait for more results of the 8120 processor.
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October 14, 2011 5:46:19 AM

I guess I am a total noob, its weird how the 8120 has better specs but doesn't perform as well.

As far as motherboards, why are some good and some arent? Which one should I get?

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October 14, 2011 6:27:36 AM

Motherboards aren't about good vs. bad, it's about what features you might need. For your usage you can basically go with the bargain basement motherboards in the $125 range. Higher end boards have better graphics capabilities like more PCIe 2.0 x16 slots and x8/x8 or x16/x16 modes, dual ethernet cables, more usb 3.0 ports, higher quality audio, and some other things - none of which you need.

I don't have any great references on hand, but definitely go with the 2500K. It's about more than cores, GHZ, and cache. If you're willing to wait 3-6 months then we can talk again, but right now the 2500K/2600K is king.
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October 14, 2011 7:17:38 AM

Great!

Want to link me to one off amazon? As long as it does what I need it to do, thats great. And will work with my video card,

As far as hard drives. Whats a decent, but fast HD? 1tb or 2?

Memory, any recommendations?

8 vs 16?
Brands?

Thanks!
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October 14, 2011 7:26:04 AM

minneola24 said:
Great!

Want to link me to one off amazon? As long as it does what I need it to do, thats great. And will work with my video card,

As far as hard drives. Whats a decent, but fast HD? 1tb or 2?

Memory, any recommendations?

8 vs 16?
Brands?

Thanks!


HDD
A samsung spinpoint f3

Memory
G.skill Ripjaws 8gb ddr3 1600
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October 14, 2011 7:33:41 AM

Thanks.

And what MOBO?

Will my power supply work with all this stuff guys? Thanks
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October 14, 2011 2:34:20 PM

If you got the cash, you should totally go with a ssd + backup hdd. For your psu, just make sure it's atx form factor and you're good to go.

go for this matx. no pci slots and the ram is at 1333.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Corsair Force CSSD-F115GB2-BRKT-A 2.5" 115GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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October 14, 2011 4:55:03 PM

Thanks for the reply.

I have a 350GB hard drive now, should I just install the os on that and the rest on the new samsung 1tb drive?

Also,

That mobo doesnt have usb 3.0 :(  I think itd be nice to have it.

Also one that works with the new processor and my power supply, and also my current graphics card:

ATI radeon hd 5750

Do you guys recommend any cases that will fit all this? I would prefer an inexpensive quiet one, with usb ports on the top.
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October 14, 2011 5:25:33 PM

Also,

I can go with the i5 2500 not the 2500k right? I dont plan on overclocking, I dont even know how.
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October 14, 2011 7:34:22 PM

Alright, plenty of good ideas so far. I just want to try to summarize/organize a little

*CPU: i5-2500K or i5-2500. The 2500 is fine if you don't want to overclock and would like to save the $15. Don't bother with bulldozer (yet) and don't wait for ivy bridge.

*Motherboard: Something Z68 (probably with an ATX form factor). You won't need the advanced features of higher-end boards so something with a good brand-name in the $125 range will be great.

*Memory: You need DDR3, 1600mhz, 1.5V, CAS Latency 9. 8GB is a good mark. Get 2x4GB instead of 4x2GB so that later you can add another 2x4GB to get to 16GB. Any RAM with those specs from G.Skill, Corsair, Mushkin, or Kingston will be great.

*HDD: The Samsung Spinpoint F3 is the king of 1TB 7200RPM drives right now. Don't waste your money on more expensive Seagate or WD drives. If the 350GB hard drive is SATA 3.0gb/s (and not IDE) and at least 7200RPM then you can use it, however putting the OS and storage on different drives is generally to get better performance out of the OS, which will not happen if the OS is on the 350GB. If the 350GB HDD is at least 7200RPM, you could get a 2TB 5400RPM drive for only a little more than the F3 to use for storage.

*SSD: If you can afford it, an SSD makes a great boot drive. The Crucial M4, Corsair Force, Intel 320, and Plextor drives are all good choices - there are others. Most people (including myself) who get a 60GB/64GB find themselves wishing they had gotten a 120GB/128GB drive because 60GB/64GB drives fill up very fast.

The best hard drive configuration is an SSD for the OS and a 1TB-2TB HDD for mass storage. You can use the 350GB drive plus the Spinpoint if you want, but you will see no performance benefit from that configuration.
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October 14, 2011 7:58:40 PM

Thanks for the response.

Let me know if all of these will work together.


Processor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i5-2500-Sandy-Bridge...

Motherboard:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...

Hard Drive:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$65

(I'm holding off on SSD for now, thanks)

Memory:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E168...

Now I just need two more things:

A case:
I would preferably like a smaller case, I could use the one I have now, its just older and one fan doesnt work. It should be fine for now come to think of it, but if I want to transfer to a new case that might be a pain in the ass.

Memory card reader: I would like an internal one that works for CF cards, which my camera supports. The faster the better, but Im not sure which connection I need. Some have usb 3.0 some are SATA. I want one under 20 if possible.

thanks!!
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October 14, 2011 8:23:41 PM

They all work together, yes. Biostar isn't generally considered in the top-tier of mobo manufacturers, but I've never really heard anything bad about them.

There are a lot of cheap cases in the world. The only thing you want to watch out for, though, is that your mobo doesn't have a USB 3.0 header so you don't want a case with USB 3.0 on the front. In terms of quiet cases, I have a Zalman Z9 and they're extremely quiet. Don't stress to much about the case. The features you need are the right form factor (ATX), a sufficient number of 3.5" and 5.25" drive bays, and the proper number/types of things on the front panel. If it were me, I would look for the simplest case you can find in the $50 range. You can put extra connectors on the card reader.

Card Reader: There are so many of them in the world. The biggest thing is that it has the readers that you want. The second biggest thing is the way that it connects to the motherboard. Some use USB ports, some use USB headers, and some use SATA. Personally, the ones that use headers are my preference. It's hard to find them in a 5.25" size, but there are plenty under $20 in a 3.5" size.
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October 14, 2011 8:39:48 PM

danraies said:
I basically agree with Des74.

Photo editing sees a benefit from the hyperthreading that the 2600K offers so if you can afford the $300, go for that.

The ASRock Extreme3 Gen3 is a great board but it's more of a gaming board. Take a look at things like the ASUS P8Z68-V LE for other options. Both good boards (there are Gigabyte and MSI boards in that range, too) but take a look at the port clusters and other such features to see which you prefer.

460W is plenty for the card that you listed.


The LE is bad for overclocking, and it's the same price as the Extreme3 Gen3, so why not get the ASROCK the Extreme3 gives him PCI E 3.0 if he wants to upgrade to Ivy Bridge, CrossfireX/Sli Options, and better overclockabiliity. If it's out of his budget range, sure he can go with cheaper board. But the Extreme3 is probably the best value in it's price range and the question is: Why not?

And yes, the FX series IS that bad (at the moment, anyway). AMD really messed up with FX, look: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/434?vs=287 2600k beats it by quite a bit, the 2600k is the best option for your photo editing.

Also are you overclocking?

Intel Core i7 2600k http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Best for your photo editing and rendering needs, you can of course go with a 2500k for cheaper, but it'll be a bit slower.

ASRock Extreme3 Gen3 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Best board you're gonna get in this price range).

If you aren't over clocking / sli and don't need usb 3.0 you can get:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

The smaller board allows you to get a smaller case too, since you are looking for that.
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October 14, 2011 8:41:28 PM

Thanks Des74,

The Intel Core i7 2600K is a little out of my price range, and I have no clue how to overclock, so I'm not :) 
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October 14, 2011 9:05:19 PM

Since you don't need any of those features, you should just get

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... There's no difference between the 2400 and the 2500 besides the 200 mhz clock speed which isn't gonna make much of a difference.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


Or if you want USB 3.0 you can get http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... for a bit more.

You also might wanna think of getting a new PSU, that power supply isn't very good and case power supplies are very good in general, you might wanna be thinking into getting a new quality one. Never skimp on the PSU, you'll regret it as when it dies, it has a possibility of taking your whole PC with it. Here's a quality PSU that's perfect for your needs and doesn't break the bank:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Yes, that card reader is fine.
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October 14, 2011 9:16:52 PM

So here's your complete list of parts
Intel Core i5-2400
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

ASRock H61M-VS/ H61M/US3S3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Get this if you want USB 3.0 on your motherboard)

Corsair CX430
www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1681713902...

G.SKILL Value Series 8GB DDR3 1333 (2x4GB)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

About $410 dollars with your card reader. You can change the ram to http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... if you wanna knock off a couple bucks.
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October 14, 2011 9:22:53 PM

Thanks,

Do I need that power supply if I have a 460 watt now?

Also,
Some mentioned the motherboard should be around 125, is that a bad one?
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October 14, 2011 9:48:15 PM

des74 said:

Bulldozer = Faildozer, wait for the next revision to buy Bulldozer, because as of now, i52500k and i72600k poops on it. Even the Thuban and older Phenom II out shine it lol



sorry I couldn't resist but Intel is still dominating for now...
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October 14, 2011 10:24:45 PM

Yes, the LE is bad for overclocking. It's also bad for gaming. The ASRock Extreme3 is a great mobo at the price, but it doesn't offer every feature. It has no USB 3.0 header and a disappointing port cluster. I'm just trying to introduce more choices to the mix.

The 2400 is fine. For the small price difference I'd buy the 2500, but that's just me.

The H61 mobos are cheaper because they're H61. H61 boards will work fine, but it's an old chipset and I wouldn't buy it unless you're on a really low budget. The H67 chipset is the same but it offers Sata 6.0 gb/s which H61 doesn't have. I would spend the $110 on the biostar mobo or the $125 on the extreme3/LE if you can afford it.

460W of power is enough, but the power supply in that case is going to be lower quality. Lower quality means less reliable and less efficient. It's up to you but if it were me I'd replace it.

Now that I think about it, the 2500 is a little better than the 2500K for photo/video/audio editing if you're not overclocking.
http://ark.intel.com/products/52209
http://ark.intel.com/products/52210
Check out the Advanced Technologies at the bottom.
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October 15, 2011 2:34:08 AM

Thanks for all of the help.

Ill go with the 2500 if its better than the 2500k for not overclocking.

The 460W power supply is not the one that came with the box, its a friends. Sorry if I didnt make that clear!

Also,

Im really confused on the motherboard.

What am I getting with one that im not getting with another? What do you recommend? Im a bit confused. I just want usb 3.0 and other important functions, im not too knowledgeable about mobos to be completely honest. But I really appreciate the time you guys are spending on this thread!
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October 15, 2011 6:50:21 AM

For a motherboard you start by picking a socket, which is determined by the cpu - in your case LGA 1155. Next thing is to pick a chipset. So far we've discussed three chipsets that work on LGA 1155 and there is a fourth realistic choice. Those four choices are H61/H67, P67, and Z68.

Now, H61 is an old chipset - it will work but it is outdated. H67 is almost the same thing, but H67 adds SATA 6.0gbps support that H61 is lacking. H61/H67 will work just fine with your i5-2500K, but if you're looking for upgradability and hardware support (including bios updates) for the next several years, avoid H61/H67.

The next step up from that chronologically is P67 but this is a bad choice for you. H61/H67 is not good for overclocking and Intel put out P67 to give the overclocking support that H61/H67 lacks. P67, however, lacks an iGPU (onboard video), which you may not think you need, but is useful for photo/video/audio editing. P67 is great for gaming, but maybe not so much for you.

The most recent chipset (and king of the hill for enthusiasts) is Z68. It combines the features of both H61/H67 and P67 in that it is good for overclockers and it has the iGPU. The Z68 also has some other advanced features like SSD caching, lucidlogic virtu, and others. Z68 boards are also best about advanced/future features like usb 3.0 and PCIe 3.0.

For you, I would avoid P67. If you're on a super tight budget, H61/H67 is a reasonable compromise. If you can afford it, go with Z68.

Once you've picked a chipset, you're left with more money equals more features. If I assume you're using Z68, you start out around $100. There are three important parts of the board - the port cluster, the expansion slots, and everything else.

We'll start with the port cluster. On a cheap board you're looking at several usb 2.0 ports, a couple usb 3.0 ports (if any), a couple video ports, audio ports, bluetooth, ethernet, and then maybe a ps/2 port or a firewire port. As you get more expensive you add more usb 3.0 ports (at the sacrifice of usb 2.0), eSATA, dual/better ethernet, better audio ports (including s/pdif and coaxial ports), and etc. If you have something that needs firewire (some older camcorders) or 7.1 audio, then you'll have to make sure that your board includes those things.

Expansion slots are where you add video cards, TV tuners, wireless cards, raid controllers, or other such things. On most boards you have three types of expansion slots: PCIe x16, PCIe x1, and PCI. PCIe x16 are where you put video cards, some SSD cards, and some RAID controllers. Anything that can be put in a PCIe x1 slot will also fit in a PCIe x16 slot. PCIe x1 slots are the really short ones. PCI are a little bit shorter than PCIe x16 slots are are offset a little from the PCIe slots. PCIe x1 and PCI are for the rest of the expansion cards like TV tuners and wireless cards and etc. Most boards have seven slots. Cheap boards have one or two PCIe x16 slots and a couple PCIe x1 slots and a couple PCI slots. As you spend more money you get rid of the PCI slots and the highest end boards have seven PCIe x16 slots. The PCIe modes that the boards offer are important, too, if you plan on using SLI or CrossFire - x16/x4 is worst, x8/x8 is better, and x16/x16 is best - but you don't have to worry about that if you're only using one card. Now, after reading all of that you can forget it because it doesn't really matter when you're only using one video card.

In the category of "everything else" is onboard headers and SATA ports. Most boards have two SATA 6.0gb/s ports and four SATA 3.0gb/s ports and as you spend more money you get more SATA 6.0gb/s ports. The only thing right now that gets use out of a SATA 6.0gb/s port is an SSD. Some HDDs are listed as SATA 6.0gb/s but no magnetic HDD will currently come close to reaching SATA 6.0gb/s speeds even if they're physically able to use a SATA 6.0gb/s port. The headers are a little more important. If your case has a front panel usb 3.0 port then you'll need to connect it to a usb 3.0 header on your motherboard (usually). You can also get PCI-based expansion cards with extra usb/firewire ports and these will go to your usb headers. Most motherboards have usb 2.0 headers and firewire headers, but not all motherboards have usb 3.0 headers. Unfortunately this information is not always included in the details/specs and they can be hard to find.

Now, for you, the cheapest boards will be fine. The ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 is the best board in the $125 range. However, it is more oriented toward gaming/overclocking than general purpose and it doesn't have a usb 3.0 header (but it does have usb 3.0 in the cluster).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Personally I am a fan of the ASUS P8Z68-V LE in this price range, although about two months ago it was $15 less on newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Gigabyte offers a Z68 board for $90 and it's actually pretty nice but it's pretty sparse in terms of features.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
The biostar mobo is also a fine choice, but Biostar isn't a great name.

Finally, reliability is important and motherboards are one place where you should get a quality brand name if you can. ASUS, ASRock, Gigabyte, and MSI are the big ones.
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October 16, 2011 6:46:04 AM

Wow,
I appreciate the response. Really helpfull.

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-P8Z68-V-LX-Intel-Motherboard...

This should be good for me?

Its the one you linked me, but I think a little cheaper on amazon. roughly 115 new after tax/ shipping.

I appreciate ALL the help. Why do you do this for free? :S

The card reader, this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

How does that connect to the usb 3.0? Does it go internally though the motherboard, or through the back?

As far as RAM. My motherboard seems to support the fast ram:
2133(OC)
Should I go with that, or the 1333?

I dont know the difference!

Thanks

Last question since im almost finalized on my gear.

Power supply, the 460w my friend gave me, will that work with all this? Sorry for asking so many times.
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October 16, 2011 7:58:26 AM

You're welcome. I happily participate in these forums because answering questions is a good way to learn and also because I've had several of my own questions answered by people far more knowledgable than myself.

That motherboard will be great.

The card reader uses a usb 2.0 header that goes right to the motherboard inside the case for most of the ports, but a usb 3.0 pass-through cable that goes out the back of the case and connects to the port cluster on the motherboard. So now the question is how do you tell the difference. The ends of pass-through cables just look like standard usb cables. Generally usb 3.0 cables are blue and usb 2.0 cables are black. The ends of cables that go to headers are different.

Here are what the USB 2.0 headers look like:

(The plug on the right is a male usb 2.0 plug)

(The three blue ports are female usb 2.0 headers)

And here are what the USB 3.0 headers look like:

(This is the male usb 3.0 plug)

(The blue port on the bottom is the female usb 3.0 header)

If you look at the newegg images on the card reader you linked, you can see the blue standard usb cable on the back, indicating it uses a pass-through cable for usb 3.0. To be honest, pass-through cables suck. They look terrible, the cable pops out of the back sometimes, and it's not adding another port as much as it is moving a port from the back to the front. However, I looked on newegg and I couldn't find one card reader with usb 3.0 that used a header and not a pass-through cable. It's possible that they exist, but I couldn't find one on newegg.

I have two options for you. The first is you can buy a case with a usb 3.0 port on the front panel that uses a header. I can think of two such mid-budget cases.
Coolermaster Storm Enforcer
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Rosewill Challenger-U3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Both are excellent cases. Be careful with the Challenger, though - there is a version of the Challenger without USB 3.0.

The second option is probably better. There are adapters that take the usb 3.0 header on the motherboard to two internal standard usb 3.0 ports. That means you could take the pass-through cable on the card reader that you linked and connect it internally instead of to the port cluster. I found one such adapter here for $8.50
http://usb.brando.com/usb-3-0-20-pin-header-to-usb-3-0-...

There is, of course, a third option. You could just deal with the pass-through cable. They're not ideal but there are worse things in the world.

Yes, the motherboard supports 2133mhz RAM, but you shouldn't buy it. 1600mhz is what you want. 1600mhz is about the same price as 1333mhz and there will be no noticeable performance difference between 1600mhz and anything higher than that on the i5-2500. You also want 1.5V and CAS Latency 9. Something from this list will be great:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=E...
Pick something with one of the following brands: Corsair, G.Skill, Mushkin, Patriot, or Kingston.

Yeah, I keep forgetting to answer the PSU question. 460W is plenty, however total wattage is not the only important factor (in fact you could argue it's like third on the list of important factors). Power supplies are hard to make and some companies are bad at it. Brands range from reliable down to awful - worse equalling inefficiency and shorter lifespan. If you post a link to the exact PSU or even if you just give the brand I can give a better assessment, but as of right now I can say that your 460W PSU will "probably" work.
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October 16, 2011 8:09:39 AM

I gotta say, I have a hard time knowing how much power different video cards are going to need. It feels like predicting the weather sometimes.

Quote:
What kind of power supply?

Most likely not. Check out Corsair HX/AX series or Antec/XFX/Seasonic/Enermax/PC P&C


We've got a "probably" and a "probably not," so I thought I should give some documentation.

Tom's Furmark test shows that a system with a 5750 draws 186W at load
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-5770,2446...

AMD recommends "450 Watt or greater power supply with one 75W 6-pin PCI Express® power connectors"
http://www.amd.com/US/PRODUCTS/DESKTOP/GRAPHICS/ATI-RAD...

techpowerup.com says the card uses a maximum of 85W
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Sapphire/HD_5750/28....
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October 16, 2011 10:24:04 AM

How is H61/H67 outdated? lol It came out when SB came out, same as P67. He should just get the H61 Mobo with USB 3 that i listed, he doesn't need anything else than that, there's no point in getting a Z68 Mobo since he's not gonna use most of the stuff besides USB 3. And if you're on a tight budget, might as well get i5 2400 since its 20 dollars cheaper. 200 mhz isn't gonna make a difference in most things. Yes, unless you can tell us what brand that PSU is, i recommend you get a new PSU.
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October 16, 2011 12:06:42 PM

des74 said:
How is H61/H67 outdated? lol It came out when SB came out, same as P67. He should just get the H61 Mobo with USB 3 that i listed, he doesn't need anything else than that, there's no point in getting a Z68 Mobo since he's not gonna use most of the stuff besides USB 3. And if you're on a tight budget, might as well get i5 2400 since its 20 dollars cheaper. 200 mhz isn't gonna make a difference in most things. Yes, unless you can tell us what brand that PSU is, i recommend you get a new PSU.


Have we assumed a tight budget at some point? If we're working with a super-tight budget then I'm going to go back and change some of my recommendations, but we're not. "Budget Range: Would like to not spend a whole lot, but whatever fits my needs. I want something good, not cheap. But I dont want to get the best of the best."

H67 is literally the cheapest you can go for an LGA 1155 board with USB 3.0. You're right - H61/H67 isn't strictly "outdated." I guess I picked the wrong word. However it is clearly inferior to Z68. Let's not pretend like H61/H67 is some hidden trade secret and that Z68 is a waste of money - Z68 is the budget-to-enthusiast range choice and H67 is the extreme budget choice. If your whole machine is under $500 then H67 is great, but if you're just looking for the most recent technology (good and not cheap) without overpaying for the best of the best, then the $100-$150 Z68 boards are the way to go.

Also, the i5-2400 would be fine. Personally, though, I think that $20 for .2ghz is about the going rate for cpu clock speeds in the 3.0ghz and higher range and is easily worth it. Again, if we're working on a tight budget and $20 either way on a processor is a tipping point then the whole conversation would be much different.
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October 16, 2011 2:08:27 PM

Is the usb 2.0 header going to not be as fast as a 3.0 header?

I mean I want a fast memory card reader, Im just confused why it needs to plug into the usb 2.0 header and the usb 3.0 on the back. I dont mind if the cord goes outside the mobo to the back. No one looks there anyways :) 

As far as budget,

Guys I dont want to spend all of my money, however if its something that you think I will benefit greatly from then I'll get it. I mean I dont have a set # budget, its just I want something that will fit me. If the 2400 is good then Ill get it. If Ill get better speeds on photoshop work for the $20 extra, then I'll get that, assuming its worth the value.

Ill get the PSU manufacturer soon, thank you all!
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October 16, 2011 7:22:39 PM

usb 3.0 headers will be faster than usb 2.0 headers. However I can't say I've ever seen a card reader that uses usb 3.0 to for the sd card slots. You might be stuck with usb 2.0 speeds for the card readers for now, although it is certainly possible that there are card readers that use usb 3.0 for the card slots that I've never seen.

Neither myself nor Dez74 are right or wrong, we're just both assuming different budgets. There are a lot of different budget levels and there's not always a distinct line between what is good for the value and what is not for the value. Both the i5-2400 and the i5-2500 are good CPU's but they're $20 different because they have a difference of $20 worth of performance. If they were $100 different then it would clearly not be worth it for most people, but at a $20 difference it can go either way.

It's very difficult to work with a fluid budget and say you're going to get the cheapest quality parts or the best bang for your buck or things like that. It's much easier for you and for us if we can work with a fixed budget. If you list the parts that you need to buy and the amount that you'd like to spend on them, we can be more definitive about some things. If I remember correctly you need a cpu, a motherboard, 8gb of ram, a card reader, a hard drive, an optical drive, probably a PSU, and maybe a case. If you can give a finite budget for those things (or whatever your needs are), then we can come up with a parts list. $450 is much different than $700.
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October 16, 2011 7:48:34 PM

Thanks for the response.

The manufacturer is "Cooler Master"

As far as card reader, maybe an external one is faster?

I have 3 options,

This one states:

5Gbps Transfer Speed
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/764367-REG/Delkin...

And here are the other two, seem to be same specs:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/810152-REG/SanDis...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/754869-STUD/Lexar...

As far as the processor I'll go with the i5 2500.

Just need to know about PSU and the memory card ready and I think I'll be set.

I can upgrade to a new case later on? What would be the benefits of getting a new case? If its alot quiet i'll consider it, but aesthetic wise I dont really care.

Thanks!
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October 16, 2011 8:15:38 PM

With the first three you linked, be careful about knowing what 5Gbps means. Gbps is giga*bits* per second, not giag*bytes* per second. 5Gbps is 5/8 gigabytes per second which is still faster than 500MB/s, but not by much. The one that's listed as 5Gbps has a plug that I don't recognize, too, so be careful with that.

There's no huge benefit of getting a new case other than aesthetics and some convenience. Cooling is usually better in newer cases but you don't have to worry about that so much since you don't have an intense graphics card.

Coolermaster is a lower-end brand. I found two 460W coolermaster models on newegg and they both have underpowere +12V rails and neither of them mention 80 plus anywhere. I would buy a new PSU. The big names are Corsair, Antec, Seasonic, and PC Power and Cooling. A 450W+ unit from one of those brands would be good.
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October 16, 2011 8:29:41 PM

Thanks for the feedback.

Ill go with the lexar memory reader.

As far as PSU, do you have a preference of one that you like, id like to go less expensive on this.

Again, I dont have a # to give you. But something that will work, thats better than mine, and that will last.

Thanks!
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October 16, 2011 9:15:59 PM

Quote:
Corsair TX CX models
Antec HCG Earthwatts models
XFX Core Edition models

are the cheaper good ones

Enermax / PC P&C / Seasonic / Corsair HX and AX series are the fancier ones.

use this calculator to tell us how much wattage you need

http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp


I'm a fan of the Corsair CX (builder's series) and Antec Earthwatts, but these are all good suggestions.
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October 17, 2011 1:14:45 AM

Yes, you need to get a new PSU. Just get a Corsair CX430 and you'll be fine.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

It'd also help a lot if you stated a SPECIFIC budget in dollars.
As this would clear up whether to go H61 or Z68. H61 is all you need anyway, since you aren't gonna be overclocking or anything in that range. It's not like he's gonna be using a SSD cache or the IGP since he stated he already has a graphics card. I see no reason to with a Z68 when he'll probably NEVER use any of the features besides the USB 3. The H61 with USB 3 that i posted even has UEFI so there's another reason to just go with H61 and save some money.
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October 19, 2011 6:34:27 PM

I bought all of the supplies except the case, I assume I can get that at a later point in time.

RAM
Corsair DDR 3 8GB Vengeance LP
2x4 GB

MOTHERBOARD
ASUS p8p67 LE LGA 1155
http://www.amazon.com/P8P67-REV-3-0-Supported-Motherboa...

Processor:
I decided to go with the i5 2500k so in the future I can overclock if I want.

PSU:
Antec 500 watt Basiq
ATX12V v2.3

Hard Drive:
Seagate Barracuda 1 TB 7200 RPM 32mb cache, SATA


If any of these parts you guys disagree with let me know so I can return them.

I thank you all for so much help!
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October 20, 2011 6:06:05 AM

minneola24 said:
I bought all of the supplies except the case, I assume I can get that at a later point in time.

RAM
Corsair DDR 3 8GB Vengeance LP
2x4 GB

MOTHERBOARD
ASUS p8p67 LE LGA 1155
http://www.amazon.com/P8P67-REV-3-0-Supported-Motherboa...

Processor:
I decided to go with the i5 2500k so in the future I can overclock if I want.

PSU:
Antec 500 watt Basiq
ATX12V v2.3

Hard Drive:
Seagate Barracuda 1 TB 7200 RPM 32mb cache, SATA


If any of these parts you guys disagree with let me know so I can return them.

I thank you all for so much help!


That all looks good. Enjoy.
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!