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Advice for properly planning water cooled computer ($3k budget)

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October 15, 2011 9:36:55 AM

Approximate Purchase Date: Once I’ve picked out all the components and saved up all the $ (I'm roughly 2/3 the way there)

Budget Range: ~$3,000

System Usage: Games, Video Editing and Rendering, Adobe Products, Heavy Multitasking

Parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, OS

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Google Shopping – whatever’s cheapest yet reliable

Country of Origin: I live in the US of A

Parts Preferences: Intel, whatever's best

Overclocking: Yes

SLI or Crossfire: Perhaps in the future

Monitor Resolution: A 40 inch Bravia LCD TV

---------------------------------------------------------

I've been looking around for a while, saw & helped 3 friends get new rigs, all the while I've been saving up for my own - I've compiled much of my information on a Google Doc here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1kO1gwPnv-zBj0JwbhCT...

The Case: I have decided on the MountainMods U2-UFO case with Acrylic panels on the left, right, and top; I plan to get the XL-ATX mobo tray as it's horizontal (which I like) and can be used with any foreseeable motherboard I may upgrade to in the future. This case is surely big enough to house anything I may want to put in it, which is good, because I want to water cool it.

I should at this point tell you that although I've been doing my research, I've never actually done water cooling. I've read up on it, and believe I have a general idea of how I want to build my computer, so...

last night I finally whipped up this schematic:



Now to explain the schematic, with the parts I'm currently looking at:

A - Motherboard - Some LGA1155 socket motherboard to compliment the i7 2700k I plan to get; a Z68 perhaps?
B - Pump - I'm looking at a MCP355 (instruction manual says it's best to install this pump at the lowest point of the case)
C - Reservoir - Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Rev2 Reservoir (Instructions say it's easiest to install at highest point for filling purposes, but since I'm looking to get the plastic walls & ceiling and it's able to be mounted at the bottom, I'll go that route)
D - Radiator - Swiftech MCR220-QP Liquid Cooler Radiator
E - Power Supply - Antec High Current Pro HCP-1200 1200W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
F - PCI SSD - a PCI SSD, for maximum speed throughput
G - Graphics Card - EVGA GTX580 Hydro Copper 2 Graphics Card(s) (perhaps I'll SLI another one on at a later date)
H - 5 x 5.25 Bay - A bay, included with the case
I - Processor - an i7 2700k
J - Case Fans - x4 120mm fans

Also in this schematic is what I plan to do with the water cooling tubing:

Water Cooling Tubing


1 - Comes out of pump
2 - Enters Resevoir
3 - Enters CPU waterblock
4 - Enters GPU waterblock
5 - Exits GPU waterblock
6 - Enters Liquid Reservoir
7 - Re-Enters Pump

YOUR ADVICE:
If anything here doesn't look right, or isn't something you would do, PLEASE comment on it. That's why I've posted it here. Hopefully the labeling is clear and makes it easier for you to understand. I'd appreciate advice on everything - the layout of components and tubing, the choice of components, etc. If you have a preference for cooling parts I want to hear it. If you know what motherboard will be best for the i7 2700k, let me know. If you know what fittings I should get or which way something should be facing, etc. Give me you opinion - I value it!

More about : advice properly planning water cooled computer budget

October 15, 2011 9:48:31 AM

Well, I don't think a dual 120 rad is going to cut it. That "case" looks like it would accommodate a 3x 140mm rad, that would probably be more suitable.
October 15, 2011 9:51:02 AM

Maybe even consider a dual radiator system. I'm guessing that 3x 140 would be enough though. With dual radiators you could run slower fans thanks to more radiator area. That would mean a quieter system if that's a concern.
Related resources
October 15, 2011 10:19:56 AM

FinneousPJ said:
Maybe even consider a dual radiator system. I'm guessing that 3x 140 would be enough though. With dual radiators you could run slower fans thanks to more radiator area. That would mean a quieter system if that's a concern.

Hmm, I was planning to get a 3 fan radiator, don't know how I ended up linking to a 2 fan one. Here's some options for 3x140mm rads, not sure which one's better other than price (and reviews of course).
One nice thing about Mountain Mods is they give you options, so if I decide to go with a dual radiator system as you said, I can choose to have holes in one of the walls to mount another. I'd like to see if other folks recommend a dual rad system or not. Also, why did you put the word case in quotes before, is it not proper to call the U2-UFO a computer case?
October 15, 2011 10:29:52 AM

Rickswan said:
Hmm, I was planning to get a 3 fan radiator, don't know how I ended up linking to a 2 fan one. Here's some options for 3x140mm rads, not sure which one's better other than price (and reviews of course).
One nice thing about Mountain Mods is they give you options, so if I decide to go with a dual radiator system as you said, I can choose to have holes in one of the walls to mount another. I'd like to see if other folks recommend a dual rad system or not. Also, why did you put the word case in quotes before, is it not proper to call the U2-UFO a computer case?


:lol:  Well it just doesn't look like a computer case in the traditional sense.

I'd say any radiator's fine, just make sure it's not a "slim" one. I've used the Black Ice Extreme ones, high quality but also high price.

The only reason to go for a dual rad system would be the lower noise IMO. 3x 140 is going to cool your system, but it's gonna be running the fans a lot harder than 6x 140mm, which probably could idle without fans at all.
October 15, 2011 10:51:42 AM

For the water side of things, hang a thread in Overclocking section, theres a W/c subsection there and you'll get more specific advice on the loop
a 3x140 (420) rad would cool that or 2x120 (240) will handle a Cpu and single card setup fine though,
Moto
October 15, 2011 10:54:09 AM

Yeah but he mentioned wanting to go SLI in the future.
October 15, 2011 1:22:09 PM

Aah, missed the sli part, well caught that man :) 
Op, you will need to calculate your wattage output for the loop,
as your 2700 isn't out yet its hard to guesstimate the watts for that so use a 2500k as a guideline,
then two cards, and I was looking around to find the general watts-handling ability of common rads, seems one 120mm rad will handle between 100 and 150w according to this thread http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?2489...
of course thats an older post, milage will vary with better/worse fans but if you figure your output you should be able to figure the minimum required raddage quite easily
Oh, while I remember,
**
1 - Comes out of pump
2 - Enters Resevoir
3 - Enters CPU waterblock**
You want the flow from pump straight to Cpu block, not res
Moto
October 15, 2011 4:35:38 PM

first off they will be the i7 39xx series not 2700k. and they will run on a x79 motherboard not a 1155 p67/z68 mobo- http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/core-i7-3960x-x79-p... either way i do not recommend the new sandy bridge e cpu's. the 2600k is the best gaming cpu you can buy and hyper threading is fine for video editing. 8 cores is pricey and not worth it.

the pci ssd's are unreliable and very pricy- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... the crucial m4 128gb is fast and very reliable. if you can afford it get another

the corsair ax1200 is the best psu on the market- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... and cheaper than that antec

i also agree you should have more rads with the money you saved with theses changes so you can oc your components more. you should also think of getting a better pump and reservoir- http://www.xoxide.com/single-ddcdual-br.html http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp655.html from what i can see the case can hold one of these http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcr320-xp.html and 2 more dual 120mm should do
.
i suggest these 120mm fans- http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-120mm-Case-R4-C2R-2...

or these 140mm- http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Silent-140mm-R4-S4S...

and dont get the xl atx stick with the atx
October 17, 2011 2:22:25 AM

FinneousPJ said:
:lol:  Well it just doesn't look like a computer case in the traditional sense.

I'd say any radiator's fine, just make sure it's not a "slim" one. I've used the Black Ice Extreme ones, high quality but also high price.

The only reason to go for a dual rad system would be the lower noise IMO. 3x 140 is going to cool your system, but it's gonna be running the fans a lot harder than 6x 140mm, which probably could idle without fans at all.


Thanks for the suggestions! I'll consider the dual-rad setup, there's definitely enough room to do it with this case. The only thing that may be prohibitive is price, but if it's that's what I must do...

Motopsychojdn said:
For the water side of things, hang a thread in Overclocking section, theres a W/c subsection there and you'll get more specific advice on the loop
a 3x140 (420) rad would cool that or 2x120 (240) will handle a Cpu and single card setup fine though,
Moto

I posted a thread in the water cooling section as you suggested, here: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/269907-29-advice-prop... :D 

Motopsychojdn said:
Aah, missed the sli part, well caught that man :) 
Op, you will need to calculate your wattage output for the loop,
as your 2700 isn't out yet its hard to guesstimate the watts for that so use a 2500k as a guideline,
then two cards, and I was looking around to find the general watts-handling ability of common rads, seems one 120mm rad will handle between 100 and 150w according to this thread http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?2489...
of course thats an older post, milage will vary with better/worse fans but if you figure your output you should be able to figure the minimum required raddage quite easily
Oh, while I remember,
**
1 - Comes out of pump
2 - Enters Resevoir
3 - Enters CPU waterblock**
You want the flow from pump straight to Cpu block, not res
Moto


Dude, I appreciate the research! I looked up the wattage I'd need & found a link on TH for a wattage calc: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/245131-28-wattage-cal... ... so, if I have 1 GPU it will be ~750, and with another it'll be ~1100! I may want to aim very high with the cooling, in case I decide to SLI in the future...

In response to the other part, the reason I planned it like that was because of #11 on this guide: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?1196... and other sites - so, you think it should go to the CPU prior to the Reservoir? Like from pump > cpu > gpu > reservoir?
October 17, 2011 3:34:19 AM

mjmjpfaff said:
first off they will be the i7 39xx series not 2700k. and they will run on a x79 motherboard not a 1155 p67/z68 mobo- http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/core-i7-3960x-x79-p... either way i do not recommend the new sandy bridge e cpu's. the 2600k is the best gaming cpu you can buy and hyper threading is fine for video editing. 8 cores is pricey and not worth it.

Uh-uh! The 2700k is coming out: http://hexus.net/tech/news/cpu/32072-intel-readying-cor... otherwise I agree, I'm not getting a Sandy-Bridge E. I'll upgrade to Ivy Bridge, if anything.

mjmjpfaff said:
the pci ssd's are unreliable and very pricy- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... the crucial m4 128gb is fast and very reliable. if you can afford it get another

Hmm, I was afraid of something like that, but I thought the idea of them was just so cool. But you're probably right, maybe I'll stick with a standard SSD... for now...

mjmjpfaff said:
the corsair ax1200 is the best psu on the market- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... and cheaper than that antec

i also agree you should have more rads with the money you saved with theses changes so you can oc your components more. you should also think of getting a better pump and reservoir- http://www.xoxide.com/single-ddcdual-br.html http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp655.html from what i can see the case can hold one of these http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcr320-xp.html and 2 more dual 120mm should do
.
i suggest these 120mm fans- http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-120mm-Case-R4-C2R-2...

or these 140mm- http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Silent-140mm-R4-S4S...

and dont get the xl atx stick with the atx

I went ahead and put your suggestions at the top of my lists. If I decide to get 2 radiators (which it's starting to seem like I should) I wonder, is it best to have both radiators next to one another or separated by a wall? Probably doesn't matter.

One more thing, I thought the XL-ATX was backwards compatible with ATX boards. It says the EATX is, I'll get that instead... unless that's being frivolous? I was just thinking I'd cover my bases in case I plan to upgrade to another-sized motherboard.
October 17, 2011 4:13:45 AM

atx will cover 99% of motherboards on the market. i really dont know about that case which is why i cannot recommend something without being 100% positive that it will fit.

that article is wrong. tomshardware got their hands on one of the sandy bridge e cpu's. im pretty sure they know what it is called and what the lineup will be.
October 17, 2011 7:49:19 PM

mjmjpfaff said:
atx will cover 99% of motherboards on the market. i really dont know about that case which is why i cannot recommend something without being 100% positive that it will fit.

that article is wrong. tomshardware got their hands on one of the sandy bridge e cpu's. im pretty sure they know what it is called and what the lineup will be.

The case is the U2UFO on this site: http://www.mountainmods.com/CYO_picker.php and is 18 inches cubed - the schematic I whipped up is actually using an image from their "CYO case picker" on that link. Everything I know about the case is from there.

I'm not discounting what you said at all, or Tom's Hardware for that matter, but if you do a Google search for i7 2700k, it pops up with multiple results saying that Intel has confirmed the new processor. It ISN'T Sandy Bridge E, it's instead probably going to be the last of Sandy Bridge regular, and they say it was hushed so that they could spring it on Bulldozer when it comes out. I saw the stuff Tom's Hardware said about Sandy Bridge E as well, but this isn't SBe. Of course, that's just what I've picked up from Google searching for it, but when it comes from multiple sources like this it tends to gain credibility - also Intel hasn't discounted any of the claims that there will be an i7 2700k coming out soon. Anyway, worst case scenario, I stick with the 2600k which is still awesome
October 17, 2011 11:10:15 PM

Rickswan said:
The case is the U2UFO on this site: http://www.mountainmods.com/CYO_picker.php and is 18 inches cubed - the schematic I whipped up is actually using an image from their "CYO case picker" on that link. Everything I know about the case is from there.

I'm not discounting what you said at all, or Tom's Hardware for that matter, but if you do a Google search for i7 2700k, it pops up with multiple results saying that Intel has confirmed the new processor. It ISN'T Sandy Bridge E, it's instead probably going to be the last of Sandy Bridge regular, and they say it was hushed so that they could spring it on Bulldozer when it comes out. I saw the stuff Tom's Hardware said about Sandy Bridge E as well, but this isn't SBe. Of course, that's just what I've picked up from Google searching for it, but when it comes from multiple sources like this it tends to gain credibility - also Intel hasn't discounted any of the claims that there will be an i7 2700k coming out soon. Anyway, worst case scenario, I stick with the 2600k which is still awesome

ummm. maybe get the side panel with the triple fan slot and a window. so then you could have dual 360mm rads. that should be enough but another 240 rad on the back might put it over the top with cooling greatness ;) 
October 18, 2011 7:07:59 AM

mjmjpfaff said:
ummm. maybe get the side panel with the triple fan slot and a window. so then you could have dual 360mm rads. that should be enough but another 240 rad on the back might put it over the top with cooling greatness ;) 

Oh man, that would be insane! I think at this point, my bare minimum is gonna be 2 radiators...
October 18, 2011 7:18:08 AM

This is too complicated for me... sorry :( 
October 18, 2011 2:30:23 PM

Rickswan said:
Oh man, that would be insane! I think at this point, my bare minimum is gonna be 2 radiators...

ok so just get the atx motherboard option and the side window with the triple fan port. and flip the motherboard tray horizontally.
October 20, 2011 1:40:27 AM

mjmjpfaff said:
ok so just get the atx motherboard option and the side window with the triple fan port. and flip the motherboard tray horizontally.

Alright, so first of all I purchased the power supply you recommended - it had a $20 off deal, plus a $20 off rebate, plus a 10% off limited time promo code

Then, I thought about the different ways to implement more than one radiator into my setup. I thought of a few, and I amended my original schematic to help visualize:

SCHEMATIC 2

CASE SIDE OPTIONS
The picture of the case (the U2UFO) is from http://www.mountainmods.com/CYO_picker.php
Below the schematic are some of the options for sides of the case. In my original schematic, I had the "Standard Front" which had a 5x5.25 bay and room for one triple radiator. In this schematic, I have "Duality" and "Triple Original" selected. Duality has room for 2 triple radiators on the front of the case, and Triple Original on the left side has room for one triple radiator. Other options on the site for radiator placement are to get cutouts on the back and right side.

WATER COOLING TUBING ON SCHEMATIC
1 - Flow starts from Pump (B) to Radiator 1 (D1)
2 - Leaves Radiator 1 (D1)
3 - Enters Radiator 2 (D2)
4 - Leaves Radiator 2 (D2) and enters CPU Waterblock (i)
5 - Leaves CPU (i) and enters GPU waterblock (G)
6 & 7 - Goes through Graphics Card waterblock, then either through dotted line to RAD 3 (D3) or to the Reservoir (C)
7A - If I go this route, it's from the GPU (G) to Radiator 3 (D3), then to the Reservoir (C)
8 - From GPU (G) to Reservoir (C) (if using dotted line, from Radiator 3 (D3) to Reservoir (C))
9 - From Reservoir (C) back to Pump (B)

NOTE: I may be getting a bay-mounted reservoir (as suggested by mjmjpfaff) instead of the floor mounted reservoir, marked on the schematic by "RES 2" and "C2"

MULTIPLE RADIATORS
I have decided to go with at least 2 radiators, and I'm toying with the idea with eventually getting a third (perhaps).

So here are the multiple ways I think I can set up more than one radiator. When I say "RAD1" or "RAD3" look at the schematic to see which radiator I'm talking about. The following is in no particular order:
SETUP WITH 2 RADIATORS
A: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > CPU > GPU > RES > PUMP
B: PUMP > RAD1 > CPU > GPU > RAD 3 > RES > PUMP
C: PUMP > CPU > GPU > RAD3 > RAD1 > RES > PUMP
D: PUMP > CPU > GPU > RAD1 > RAD2 > RES > PUMP
E: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > GPU > CPU > RES > PUMP

SETUP WITH 3 RADIATORS
F: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > CPU > GPU > RAD 3 > RES > PUMP
G: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > RAD3 > GPU > CPU > RES > PUMP
H: PUMP > CPU > GPU > RAD3 > RAD1 > RAD2 > RES > PUMP
I: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > RAD3 > CPU > GPU > RES > PUMP
J: PUMP > GPU > CPU > RAD3 > RAD1 > RAD2 > RES > PUMP

MY THOUGHTS
I read somewhere that the reservoir should always be right before the pump, so that's why it's that way in all of the above; if I'm wrong, please correct me there. I've also heard that the first thing hit after the pump ought to be the CPU. Also, I've heard that the order makes very little difference (Example) and simply shortest distance and good organization are paramount. Remember that I will likely be getting a bay-mounted reservoir, which obviously makes the setup different than if I had a floor-mounted one. I'm not sure, but I may be able to mount the front wall of this case upside down to get the reservoir closer to the pump (Looks like I can). Anyway, there are a ton of variables here, so please help me sort it all out - with my case, what is the optimum setup in your opinion!
October 20, 2011 1:57:40 AM

Rickswan said:
Alright, so first of all I purchased the power supply you recommended - it had a $20 off deal, plus a $20 off rebate, plus a 10% off limited time promo code

Then, I thought about the different ways to implement more than one radiator into my setup. I thought of a few, and I amended my original schematic to help visualize:

SCHEMATIC 2
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x404/RICKSW4N/Computers/U2UFO-ATXtripleRadx3version2.jpg
CASE SIDE OPTIONS
The picture of the case (the U2UFO) is from http://www.mountainmods.com/CYO_picker.php
Below the schematic are some of the options for sides of the case. In my original schematic, I had the "Standard Front" which had a 5x5.25 bay and room for one triple radiator. In this schematic, I have "Duality" and "Triple Original" selected. Duality has room for 2 triple radiators on the front of the case, and Triple Original on the left side has room for one triple radiator. Other options on the site for radiator placement are to get cutouts on the back and right side.

WATER COOLING TUBING ON SCHEMATIC
1 - Flow starts from Pump (B) to Radiator 1 (D1)
2 - Leaves Radiator 1 (D1)
3 - Enters Radiator 2 (D2)
4 - Leaves Radiator 2 (D2) and enters CPU Waterblock (i)
5 - Leaves CPU (i) and enters GPU waterblock (G)
6 & 7 - Goes through Graphics Card waterblock, then either through dotted line to RAD 3 (D3) or to the Reservoir (C)
7A - If I go this route, it's from the GPU (G) to Radiator 3 (D3), then to the Reservoir (C)
8 - From GPU (G) to Reservoir (C) (if using dotted line, from Radiator 3 (D3) to Reservoir (C))
9 - From Reservoir (C) back to Pump (B)

NOTE: I may be getting a bay-mounted reservoir (as suggested by mjmjpfaff) instead of the floor mounted reservoir, marked on the schematic by "RES 2" and "C2"

MULTIPLE RADIATORS
I have decided to go with at least 2 radiators, and I'm toying with the idea with eventually getting a third (perhaps).

So here are the multiple ways I think I can set up more than one radiator. When I say "RAD1" or "RAD3" look at the schematic to see which radiator I'm talking about. The following is in no particular order:
SETUP WITH 2 RADIATORS
A: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > CPU > GPU > RES > PUMP
B: PUMP > RAD1 > CPU > GPU > RAD 3 > RES > PUMP
C: PUMP > CPU > GPU > RAD3 > RAD1 > RES > PUMP
D: PUMP > CPU > GPU > RAD1 > RAD2 > RES > PUMP
E: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > GPU > CPU > RES > PUMP

SETUP WITH 3 RADIATORS
F: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > CPU > GPU > RAD 3 > RES > PUMP
G: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > RAD3 > GPU > CPU > RES > PUMP
H: PUMP > CPU > GPU > RAD3 > RAD1 > RAD2 > RES > PUMP
I: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > RAD3 > CPU > GPU > RES > PUMP
J: PUMP > GPU > CPU > RAD3 > RAD1 > RAD2 > RES > PUMP

MY THOUGHTS
I read somewhere that the reservoir should always be right before the pump, so that's why it's that way in all of the above; if I'm wrong, please correct me there. I've also heard that the first thing hit after the pump ought to be the CPU. Also, I've heard that the order makes very little difference (Example) and simply shortest distance and good organization are paramount. Remember that I will likely be getting a bay-mounted reservoir, which obviously makes the setup different than if I had a floor-mounted one. I'm not sure, but I may be able to mount the front wall of this case upside down to get the reservoir closer to the pump (Looks like I can). Anyway, there are a ton of variables here, so please help me sort it all out - with my case, what is the optimum setup in your opinion!

that is awesome!!! you are going to see extremely low temps. you can easily get the 2600k 5.2ghz on that cooling. hopefully you get a good one. im still looking over the options and they are getting kind of confusing i must say. :pt1cable: 
October 20, 2011 2:02:48 AM

mjmjpfaff said:
that is awesome!!! you are going to see extremely low temps. you can easily get the 2600k 5.2ghz on that cooling. hopefully you get a good one. im still looking over the options and they are getting kind of confusing i must say. :pt1cable: 

Yeah man! And I know, so many options!
October 20, 2011 2:11:46 AM

well first off go with 3 radiators because you can... :p 
October 20, 2011 7:01:51 AM

mjmjpfaff said:
well first off go with 3 radiators because you can... :p 

Haha it's sooo tempting! If I do, I'll be pretty much set as far as temps go...

boiler1990 said:
As far as loop order goes, the reservoir is before the pump to help prevent air bubbles from reaching the pump. It helps if the reservoir is level with or above the pump. With a bayres/pump, it's best if it's at the top of the case.

In terms of your loop order, as others say it really doesn't matter too much. I have mine ordered Pump > GPU2 > GPU 1 > 120 rad > CPU > 360 rad > Pump and the temps are the same as when I had it running Pump > 120 rad > CPU > 360 rad > GPU > Pump

The only reason I did it these ways is because they were the most ergonomic orders (goes from high to low).

First setup (1 GPU):
http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l554/bravokiloromeo/Water%20Cooling/IMG_0039.jpg

Second setup (2 GPU):
http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l554/bravokiloromeo/Water%20Cooling/IMG_0085.jpg

^ This is from the other thread I started, at the suggestion of motopsychojdr. This guy says order isn't too important as long as Reservoir is before the pump and the reservoir should be high. If I get that bay reservoir it'll be high. He says that he set it up the way he did because it was the most "ergonomic" - maybe I'll just try using as little tubing as I can. I think with two radiators that would be E: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > GPU > CPU > RES > PUMP and G: PUMP > RAD1 > RAD2 > RAD3 > GPU > CPU > RES > PUMP with three radiators (if I truly go nuts :D  )
October 20, 2011 2:28:52 PM

pump>rad1>rad2>GPU>rad3>CPU>RES>Pump

2 rads to cool the gpu so cooler water is always going through it and 1 rad for the cpu because the water will be somewhat cooled by the 3rd rad but it is fine because the sandy bridge cpu's run very cool

this works in my mind but i dont know if it will actually work in your rig...
October 20, 2011 2:34:23 PM

I submit to the view that go with the design that uses the least tubing. "Ergonomic" as you said :lol: 
October 20, 2011 10:16:07 PM

mjmjpfaff said:
pump>rad1>rad2>GPU>rad3>CPU>RES>Pump

2 rads to cool the gpu so cooler water is always going through it and 1 rad for the cpu because the water will be somewhat cooled by the 3rd rad but it is fine because the sandy bridge cpu's run very cool

this works in my mind but i dont know if it will actually work in your rig...
FinneousPJ said:
I submit to the view that go with the design that uses the least tubing. "Ergonomic" as you said :lol: 
Thanks for the suggestions you guys! mjmjpfaff, your radiator-before-waterblocks theory is interesting, and FinneousPJ, I see where you're coming from. Looks like you guys have conflicting ideas though! :p 
October 21, 2011 3:56:10 AM

I have posted another thread, to do specifically with the tubing & fittings I'll need:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/270016-29-lots-questi...

But also, I'm worried about the bay reservoir. XSPC Single DDC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - The manual says it has some kind of pump inside of the reservoir. Would it be fine to have that pump and the MCP655 (the pump I have in mind for the loop) running at the same time?

^ If the pump-built-in thing is problematic, here is the one I was originally looking at, which doesn't have a built-in pump: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Rev2 Reservoir ... but hopefully it's not problematic, because I like that bay reservoir
October 21, 2011 8:29:07 AM

Doesn't look like theres a pump in there to my eyes,
I'd say the manual is referring to your pump that you install
I have the one with the built in pump and you'd notice it in the pic hehe
Moto
November 1, 2011 6:34:35 PM

Motopsychojdn said:
Doesn't look like theres a pump in there to my eyes,
I'd say the manual is referring to your pump that you install
I have the one with the built in pump and you'd notice it in the pic hehe
Moto

Been a while since I've posted over here - I've since been to Hardforum and Realredraider.

I think I actually need some advice about the graphics card. I've been waiting for the GTX 580 Classified Hydro Copper to come in, but it's been out of stock for quite a while now. Looking at the stats, I'm having trouble telling what the big difference is between the 580 Classified Hydro and the GTX 580 Hydro Copper 2. I suppose I could also get a 580 that doesn't already have a waterblock attached and get it separate from here. As for the 590, I'm not entirely opposed to the idea...

So as of right now, here's what I'm tentatively planning for the rig, minus the GPU:
  • Caselabs M10
  • 17 2700k + ASUS Sabertooth P67 B3 TUF Edition bundle
  • 2 MCP655's (I plan to connect them just via tubing, if that's ok)
  • 2-3 360 radiators (this one's suggested by pOPe on RRR)
  • 16GB Corsair Dominator RAM
  • A 256GB Crucial SSD & 2TB HDD
  • Indigo Xtreme™ Engineered Thermal Interface (ETI) Kit
  • Distilled Water & a silver killcoil
  • This waterblock for the CPU (because Drewsillac says RedRaider endorses it)
  • Bitspower fittings if I go for compression
  • 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD tubing
  • StealthRes 275 Multi-Option Reservoir
  • some brand of fans - I've heard Gentle Typhoons, Yate Loons, Noiseblockers, Aerocool, Coolermaster, etc.
    March 8, 2012 1:07:37 PM

    I suggest that your pluming goes pump>cpu>rad>rad>gpu>rad>res>pump. That way the heat will be blown off after the coolant has absorbed it and you won't have pluming lines traveling around your case with warm coolant in them, besides a car's cooling system goes pump>engine>rad>res>pump and they have spent millions perfecting that.

    You also need to keep in mind that you need to reduce restriction on the inlet to your pump and have good pressure on it's inlet. Make sure that the pluming line goes from the res(in the bay) directly to the pump inlet with no sharp turns. Having the res above the pump and the highest point in the cooling system will ensure the pump has good pressure on the inlet. No kinks, elbows, or unnecessary fittings will ensure unrestricted flow.

    Finally, having a pump in the res and a separate pump on the bottom of the case would be a good thing as long as the (res)pump is supplying pressure to the main pump in the bottom of the case. You don't want the first pump restricting the second.

    P.S. having the res mounted directly above the pump would be a pretty good thing.
    !