PSU Watt Question

[Connoor]

Hey, I've recently bought a custom pc from a custom pc supplier and it was just shipped today. I'm new to the pc gaming community and this is my first gaming pc. I'm anxious about whether the 650 watt power supply will power all these components with ease. I'm very unsure so if someone can tell me if the PSU is good enough, or whats good and such?

My specs are:
Processor: Intel Quad Core i5-2500
RAM: 16GB (4 x 4GB)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z68-V-LX (the supplier told me that this board doesn't support the GPUs I got so he gave me a free upgrade to a board that does, I just noted down this motherboard assuming there isn't much difference to the one he's put in. He didn't specify the name of the new board.)
Graphics Card: Dual SLI nVidia 1GB GTX 550
Optical Drive: 22x Dual Layer DVD Rewriter
Processor Cooling Fan: Aywun RADI A1-V4
Power Supply: Widetech 650W

A reply will be strongly appreciated, thanks very much!!

 

[silverliquicity]

Hey, I wouldn't be surprised if you ran into some problems down the line, even without the SLI i would recommend at least 750w.

 

[Connoor]

Hey, I wouldn't be surprised if you ran into some problems down the line, even without the SLI i would recommend at least 750w.

How long down the line are you speaking about? And what kind of problems could I run into?
I'd really rather not get a new PSU installed the moment it arrives but If I have to, I will.

 

[delluser1]

Sigh
650 watts is more than sufficient for the OP's build.
A "Widetech" psu ? That's like a hunting decoy, looks like the real thing, just don't try and eat it.

 

[Brett928S2]

Hi

A 650 is fine...

All the best Brett

 

[Connoor]

Sigh
650 watts is more than sufficient for the OP's build.
A "Widetech" psu ? That's like a hunting decoy, looks like the real thing, just don't try and eat it.

Thanks for your answer, although I didn't understand your last sentence.

 

[delluser1]

Thanks for your answer, although I didn't understand your last sentence.

The psu shaped object in question has a single 26a / 12v rail, that makes it the equivalent of a 350 watt power supply, understand now ?

 

[Connoor]

The psu shaped object in question has a single 26a / 12v rail, that makes it the equivalent of a 350 watt power supply, understand now ?

Nope.

 

[delluser1]

It's a very low quality psu, that will never come close to being a 650 watt unit, replace it.

 

[Connoor]

It's a very low quality psu, that will never come close to being a 650 watt unit, replace it.

Alright, thanks.

 

[4745454b]

OP, the Antec 380W Green PSU has 28 or 29A on it's 12V rails. If your "650W" PSU has even less then that, as Delluser said its more like a 350W PSU. A 350W PSU can't power a GTX550TI SLI setup. You can't just go by wattage.

 

[Connoor]

OP, the Antec 380W Green PSU has 28 or 29A on it's 12V rails. If your "650W" PSU has even less then that, as Delluser said its more like a 350W PSU. A 350W PSU can't power a GTX550TI SLI setup. You can't just go by wattage.

Okay, I'm a little sceptical because why would a company sell a 650watt PSU knowingly its not as good as a 350watt? And what do you think is a good amount of watts for a PSU for this system?

 

[drwho1]

It's a very low quality psu, that will never come close to being a 650 watt unit, replace it.

Like others, I wouldn't trust the power supply from a Mickey Mouse brand (or a brand that I never heard of)

The other thing that is bugging me is the motherboard "upgrade" without a confirmation that you are actually getting an upgrade.
That's a really screw-move from your supplier.

I remember in the 90's a lot of PC vendors use this ***** tactics, to the point that the first thing I did when I bought my second computer
was to disassemble everything and verify that every component was the component on the list. (make sure that I got what I paid for)

After this I have built every computer after that for about 20 years now.
Is really not that hard, and it saves you money, plus buying every part separate (or on the same order) guarantees that you are getting what you are paying for.

Not sure about compatibility among parts?
Simply ask on forums like this one.

Before you buy.

 

[delluser1]

Didn't have the 380 label , this tells the story just as well, notice the combined 12v output on the Antec 360w = 30a

 

[robthatguyx]

also, no ones pointed out but id recomend a i5 2500k over a 2500 if your getting into gaming your going to want the potential of overclocks

 

[Connoor]

Like others, I wouldn't trust the power supply from a Mickey Mouse brand (or a brand that I never heard of)

The other thing that is bugging me is the motherboard "upgrade" without a confirmation that you are actually getting an upgrade.
That's a really screw-move from your supplier.

I remember in the 90's a lot of PC vendors use this ***** tactics, to the point that the first thing I did when I bought my second computer
was to disassemble everything and verify that every component was the component on the list. (make sure that I got what I paid for)

After this I have built every computer after that for about 20 years now.
Is really not that hard, and it saves you money, plus buying every part separate (or on the same order) guarantees that you are getting what you are paying for.

Not sure about compatibility among parts?
Simply ask on forums like this one.

Before you buy.

The supplier is trustworthy here in Australia. The only thing I caught from him about the new motherboard is that it is a 'gen 3'. He said the older board that I had chosen didn't support SLI. I assume its a newer generation of the same motherboard...

 

[robthatguyx]

also, if your only gaming and not editing photos 16 gigs of ram is massive overkill you need no more than 8 and even 8 your pretty set to go

 

[Connoor]

also, if your only gaming and not editing photos 16 gigs of ram is massive overkill you need no more than 8 and even 8 your pretty set to go

16gb came with it, you couldn't downgrade.

 

[robthatguyx]

well considering that i can give adivice based on what i know is best for gaming. get artic silver 5 and a 212 evo if it will fit in your case and always go namebrand with a psu its a bit more $$$ but in the long run id perfer my pc diddnt explode in sparks(not saying lowend pssu will but ive heard of it happening) and if its in the budget and your case has good airflow upgrade to a 2500k the k means you can overclock the cpu

 

[Connoor]

well considering that i can give adivice based on what i know is best for gaming. get artic silver 5 and a 212 evo if it will fit in your case and always go namebrand with a psu its a bit more $$$ but in the long run id perfer my pc diddnt explode in sparks(not saying lowend pssu will but ive heard of it happening) and if its in the budget and your case has good airflow upgrade to a 2500k the k means you can overclock the cpu

I'm getting the Antec 300 case. Thanks for all your help, I appreciate it.

 

[robthatguyx]

theres a few different versions of the 300, link me to the version your getting?

 

[Connoor]

theres a few different versions of the 300, link me to the version your getting?

http://www.jw.com.au/jw-gaming-i5-2400-tower-p-2370

Thats the page where I customized the PC and I bought it on the same site. Tell me what you think?

 

[delluser1]

theres a few different versions of the 300

?
One with blue fans, one without, is there more to it than that ?
You can also get them with the BP430 preinstalled.

 

[robthatguyx]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065 cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007 thermal paste
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072 2500k
just some upgrades to think about along with the psu upgrade also consider a 7200rpm sata hdd as well for the future, nothing wrong with 5200 rpm just the 7200 read and right faster. what games do you plan on trying to run?

 

[robthatguyx]

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