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Newly Built computer, no display, please advise

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November 14, 2011 11:29:47 AM

I just built my first computer since 2006, so it's been quite a while, there are a couple of new things but still all essentially the same, connect this to here, this to here, etc.

But I have a problem, of course, as the title says. My computer will turn on, all the fans run... but nothing displays on the monitor at all, no BIOS. It is secured in, so is my graphics card, which is also secured in and running.

I just don't know what to do here, everything is as it should be... I think..
Also, no sound from motherboard speaker. (Not running POST?)


Time for some Specs:

Case: coolermaster 690 II advanced

mobo: sabertooth p67 (with thermal armor)

CPU: Intel core-i5 2500k LGA 1155

power supply: corsair 650TX 650W

graphics card: ZOTAC GeForce GTX 560Ti AMP!

memory: patriot sector 5 2x4, plugged into A1 and A2 (please advise if should switch to B1)

Dont know if hard drives are important but one is seagate and the other is western digital, ill check exactly what models and such when i'm home and edit in place of this text.

Edit: Will breadboard when i get home to see if i can sort out problems, help would still be greatly appreciated...

Thank You!
a b B Homebuilt system
November 14, 2011 4:16:12 PM

1. check the reset and power pins to make sure they are connected right.

2. Is your ram A1A2 B1B2 or A1B1 A2B2? I'd start with just using one stick and making sure it's definitely snapped into place and trying to boot.

3. make sure it's not your monitor
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November 14, 2011 6:14:54 PM

1. Which pins are those... The computer will turn on. The ATX pin is in.

2. A1A2

3. It isnt, just tested it on my old computer.
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a b B Homebuilt system
November 14, 2011 7:25:47 PM

Ram goes in A1 B1 then. The power and reset pins are those little 2 pin connectors that go in the bottom of your motherboard that are a pain to do. If the power button works then it's in right and it doesn't sound like the reset is shorting out your connection since you aren't getting reboot loops. So, scratch that.

Are there LED lights on your mobo that give error codes?
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November 14, 2011 7:29:28 PM

Oh yes, those are in, and yes, are a pain to get in there, heh.
The computer will turn on after pressing the power button, then turn off after 3 seconds, then turn back on... if that means anything.
And there is 1 red LED on next to the RAM, when i press the MemOK! button on the motherboard it just flashes then shuts down my computer, restarts it, then flashes faster.
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a c 122 B Homebuilt system
November 14, 2011 7:35:08 PM

You did not mention any BIOS beeps. If you do not have a system speaker installed, you really need one, especially with a nonbooting system.

Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
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November 14, 2011 7:40:36 PM

Yes! Ok, all i did was switch the RAM to A1B1 like you said and it works, but... Now there is a red light next to Boot Device, and the BIOS says there are no hard disks connected even though both of my hard drives are connected via SATA. These are my old existing ones from my last computer, is this a problem?
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November 14, 2011 7:43:50 PM

BIOS tells me there are no hard disks, then it goes to windows 7 startup welcome screen, stops at the very beginning, then blue screens.
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November 14, 2011 7:58:00 PM

Sorry for triple post but here's the data straight from start up repair (which failed):

Problem Event Name: StartupRepairOffline
Problem Signature01: 6.1.7100.0
Problem Signature02: 6.1.7100.0
Problem Signature03: unknown
Problem Signature04: 828
Problem Signature05: AutoFailover
Problem Signature06: 1
Problem Signature07: BadDriver
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November 14, 2011 8:35:40 PM

bump/update:

Red LED's are gone, everything else above still applies... I don't know what to do...
:( 
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November 14, 2011 8:50:52 PM

Should I make a new thread?
This seems off-topic to what the original problem was...
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November 14, 2011 9:05:50 PM

Best answer selected by Tusakano.
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November 14, 2011 9:06:31 PM

Hi
New custom build pc trouble with boot up.
Lets start with beginning.
It's always better then start all wired pc case.

#1 main board with case - make sure there are 9 bolt or screws on them.
Some case already build in 3 pin then you need to add 6 more for main board installation.
If you already check this then pass to next step.

#2 PSU, please go this site and see how much power you need it for you system.
http://educations.newegg.com/tool/psucalc/index.html
estimate number + 150W is what you need for you pc.

#3 This is very rare case. check CPU installation. some time very very rare happen that pin get twist when even 0 force install. However does not very rare case. However check it out.

#4 main board + psu - make sure your psu 8 pin and 24pin is connect on main board. Some main board has 4pin, 8pin, 24pin extra 12V pin for sli and crossfire.
Must build your pc with 8pin + 24pin or 4pin + 24pin other then more power useless and some time cost a fail boot.

#5 just one main hard drive and main DVD or CD rom for first boot.
After install windows and all driver + updates then put more HDD or other drive.

#6 Memory. Make sure you have correct memory slot and type of memory. double check triple check. pin # or DDR2 DDR3, speed and Voltage of memory are "Must know and install" hardware.

#7 Cables. All sata cable are connect correctly? can't be wrong but just double check. Power connection to HDD and DVDrom. 8pin + 24pin, case LED and power and speaker and USB or 1394 plug are in correct sit or not if you don't have HD audio but plug HD audio on AC'97 some time very some time boot fail.
tiny case cable for power on, reset, audio, led connector must need manual for main board.
Pro user teach me letters on the connector face down and start from left are "+"

CPU fan, case fan are connect to main board good? double check triple check.

now again your pc is already test out.

If IF even this give you fail boot must reset the bios or test hardware one by one with other working PC system.

good luck~
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