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1000$ Gaming (Plan to Order Soon)

Last response: in Systems
November 20, 2011 7:29:14 PM

889$/ rebates! w/ monitors 1129$! (Originally the old parts were about 1150-1200$ adding it up now not including monitors) How'd I do everyone?
Updated what changes I've made in the thread so far!

Approximate Purchase Date: I would like to purchase soon, not sure if I will get any deals with Black Friday or Cyber Monday but that would be a plus.

Budget Range: I'd like to stay sub 1000$ but with what I have right now I'm slightly over at 1080$.

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, Internet Surfing, Movies

Parts Not Required: I'm set on a mouse, monitor, keyboard, and OS. BUT I am interested in finding any deals for a gaming keyboard/mouse and dual monitors. Mainly because I like the idea of browsing while I game AND if possible, I want to purchase a screen I can also use as a television.

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Using mainly as it seems to have best prices.

Country: United States

Parts Preferences: I have no preference, I'm too new to this to know any better!

Overclocking: Yes

SLI or Crossfire: Uhm....

Monitor Resolution: Like to have a highest resolution possible.

Additional Comments: No other concerns really, would like to stay SUB 1000$ not including accessories like a keyboard, mouse, monitor. I also want to be able to play games at high and ultra settings for once.


This is what I decided on using a few templates I saw and trying to match prices etc.

149.99$ (after rebate) = G452-0144 ::GIGABYTE GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 Intel Z68 Motherboard - ATX, Socket H2 (LGA 1155), Intel Z68 Chipset, 2133MHz DDR3, SATA 6.0 Gb/s, RAID, 7.1-CH Audio, Gigabit LAN, SuperSpeed USB 3.0, CrossFireX/SLI Ready(3.2 lbs)

I69-0003 ::Intel Core i5-2500K 3.30GHz Quad-Core Unlocked CPU and Free Intel Blacklight Retribution Promo T-Shirt and Free Intel Blacklight Retribution Code Card Bundle(2.6 lbs) (that extra stuff doesn't concern me..but it seemed cheaper and had them included than the same product without at 229$ ((I think))

189.99$ = (bundle deal w/ cooler) Intel Core i5 2500K Quad Core Unlocked Processor LGA1155 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB

M452-0560 ::MSI N560GTX Twin Frozr II/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) Video Card - 1028MB, GDDR5, Overclocked, PCI-Express 2.0 (x16), Dual DVI, HDMI, DirectX 11, SLI Ready (2.85 lbs)

227$ (after 20$ rebate) = (Batman: Arkham City included w/ promo) MSI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Twin Frozr II OC 880MHZ 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini-HDMI DX11 PCI-E Video Card

A406-1094 ::NZXT M59-001BK M59 Gaming Mid Tower Case - ATX, mATX, Baby AT, Black(16.75 lbs)

Thermaltake Armor A60 Gaming Mid-Tower Case

Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750-Watt

95$ (after 30$ rebate) = (great upgrade for a cheaper price) XFX Core Edition PRO850W (P1-850S-NLB9) 850W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

C19-8024 ::Crucial CT064M4SSD2 m4 2.5" Solid State Drive - 64GB, SATA 6Gb/s (0.25 lbs)

180$ (S+H) = Corsair Force 3 CSSD-F120GB3-BK 120 GB Internal Solid State Drive - 2.5" - SATA/600

C13-2528 ::Corsair CWCH50-1 Hydro H50 CPU Liquid Cooler - 120mm Fan, Copper Cold Plate, Aluminum Radiator, LGA775, LGA1366, LGA1156, AM2/AM3(3.1 lbs)

29.99 = (bundle deal w/ CPU) Coolit Systems Eco CPU Water Cooling System AUTO-REGULATED & Maintenance Free LGA1366/1156/1155/AM3

Lite-On iHBS212-08 12X Internal Blu-Ray Writer - BD-R SL 12X, BD-R DL 8X, BD-RE SL/DL 2X, DVD±R 16X, DVD-RAM 12X, DVD+RW 8X, DVD-RW 6X, CD-R/RW 48X, LightScribe, Black

Dropped Blu Ray - will install older dvd / cd player/writer to save till better deals

K24-8833 ::Kingston KHX1600C9D3B1K2/8GX Desktop Memory Kit - 8GB (2x 4GB), PC3-12800, DDR3-1600MHz, 240-pin DIMM, 9-9-9-27 CAS Latency, 1.5V, Non-ECC, Unbuffered, Intel XMP Ready(1 lbs)

37$ (got a decent deal on Amazon) Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 Memory Kit for Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and AMD Platforms SDRAM CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9

This is my first time building a decent system other than some old stuff from years ago so I'm hoping everything seems accurate and the best choice.

Also, I added a SSD because I own a 500gig Western Digital Caviar Blue HD. Not sure if it's the greatest thing in the world but just following my logic (if it makes sense). Figured since I'm saving on a a HD why not use the money to buy a cheaper 64g SSD for boot up and my main game. Don't think I missed anything!

Thanks in advance everyone, hope my post was clear and in the guidelines!

PS forgot to mention, not sure if there are deals or anything with Black Friday or Cyber Monday but any upgrades for the same price or what I have cheaper would be amazing! Been saving up for a few years :)  No more Dell Optiplex!

More about : 1000 gaming plan order

November 20, 2011 8:38:14 PM

Looks pretty good, though you may want to consider a larger SSD, if you intend on playing a lot of different games, as 64GB isn't that much when you're trying to fit in games like BF3, MW3, etc in one go. Just the OS and 1 or 2 games, then 64GB is just about right :) 

You may as well upgrade to a Blu-ray reader, just as insurance for the future, as I reckon eventually, Blu-ray will become the norm, and the DVD format will just disperse. Also, don't bother with a sound card; the integrated sound card in the motherboard is good enough, so save some money and put it towards better components.

If you plan on doing SLI in the near future, 600W may not be enough to handle the job - I'd say 750-850 if you plan on it. 600W is good as it is though.
November 20, 2011 9:06:19 PM

Thanks for the quick response! I was actually worrying a little about the 600W so I may just upgrade to this... it's 750watt. It was my original idea, so I'll take your advice and drop the sound card and use that to pay the difference.

Appreciate the input on getting a Blu Ray player, I do want this to last me some time so I'll just purchase one now and get it over with. I don't think finding a decent deal on that will be a problem. I had this one suggested to me..

Also, I suppose I could grab a larger SSD, but it's 209$ and I'll be a bit over budget. If I game off my other HD, will it very noticeable during game play? I can live with slower load times for the most part.
Related resources
November 20, 2011 11:36:19 PM

You don't need the sound card as the motherboard has one on board. It is more than enough by an average user.
November 20, 2011 11:53:24 PM


yeah I'm going to take Eddie C's advice and drop it as well. Save me some $$$ which I can invest in that improved Power Supply.

Something tells me I'm not getting the best of my money still so gonna be sure to spend the next few days looking for alternatives.
November 21, 2011 1:20:40 AM

@WasoufG - Question, the product I linked was 209$ (also includes some bonus stuff) while yours was listed at 225$ + shipping. Also, I can overclock mine as well so would my original choice be better?

@Cutebeans - I mainly ask for education purposes, since I still have a very hard time telling the difference between motherboards unless pointed out to me. Am I losing out on anything important for a MB that's 20$ cheaper? Like I won't be kicking myself in the ass for some reason? I personally don't know if things are compatible, but I do know my current set up seemed alright (based on some friends who have set up their own builds).

Also, as far as the case goes? I realized I originally posted the wrong one! So I will add this in now...just in case it's worth upgrading too!

It costs a little more, but not sure if it's something I should be looking at if I plan to upgrade eventually or for whatever reasons I may not know.

Other than that..if it's a no for that case based on what you guys said! Any reason your case listed is better than the original one I posted? I do like the look of my one posted..but if there is a good reason to get yours I'm all ears as usual!

Thanks again
November 21, 2011 2:50:08 AM


I was looking at these monitors! I think they seem to be a great deal (especially for hooking my cable box and consoles up to as well) Let me know what you guys think! I don't think I have too long to buy them! But it's basically right in that 300$ budget.

Just an update, I basically found everything OTHER than the main stuff (power supply, motherboard, video card, and processor) at Amazon for cheaper. With tax I'm sitting at about 1100$ now where as I would have been closer to 1200$. This is including the more expensive case


which I would love to have...(it's sexy! What can I say!) But does place me slightly above my desired payout.

With rebates I'm at about 1085$! That should be shipping...taxes...etc.

Changes also made were a Samsung Blu Ray Player / Writer for less, and I was able to switch back to for the same price as the RAM I had listed. (originally I had these but switched to save money)

One thing I would love feedback on! (because if I can get close to 1000$) is dual screen monitors! I didn't go into much I will now in hopes of getting some more great feedback!

Basically I want a dual screen set up, I don't need anything huge though. I imagine two 20-25' monitors would suit me just fine. As I stated though, I will be using 1 to watch TV and movies / tv shows which I watch a ton of and also obviously have a game running and browsing on the other. I didn't have any friends to guide me in this aspect to start though. Right now I'm really just browsing for prices..I guess my goal is 300$ for both / LED / 5ms or less.

Is there a donate button to this website / forum by the way! Great feedback that's going to save me money in the long run! So I can give back!
November 21, 2011 4:30:49 AM

No one has discussed one VERY important thing: Do you live near a Micro Center?

Skip the Blu-ray IMO. I don't think they're the future--online/digital only content is the future. You can get one, but don't bother unless it's a good deal. You pretty much don't even need a DVD drive. If you've already got a computer you can use at the moment, just download a Windows 7 iso (it's legal) and use the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool to write it to a USB. You'll find that you never use the DVD drive after that. has just as good of prices as Make sure you're signed up for both of their email lists. has good prices too and often has the i5-2500K for $190. I'd start buying parts now if I were you--wherever they're on a particularly good sale. I believe in buying all the parts over the course of two weeks or so and saving a hundred or so over buying at once.

Here's an amazing cooler/CPU combo at NCIX:
You don't need water cooling with Sandy Bridge CPUs, so this great CPU cooler will do well.

PSU: Any Antec, Corsair, Seasonic, or XFX will perform admirably. So go with whatever company of those makes the cheapest 750W. It's usually Antec or XFX.
November 21, 2011 4:32:03 AM

N/m that CPU combo. Just buy the CPU by itself at $190:

I'd go with the Xigmatek Dark Knigh cooler on Newegg right now since it's $15 after rebate and about even with the Hyper 212+ on performance. Either that or the CoolIT Eco 120mm Water Cooling Unit that NCIX has for $29.99 with this CPU.

EDIT: For the SSD, go with the $166.49 Corsair Force 3 120GB:

I'd probably go with this XFX PSU merely because it's pretty much the same price for a good 850W:
November 21, 2011 5:23:06 AM

Thanks, took your advice and purchased the Corsair Force 3 120GB, in the process of buying the CPU now! If the website would load that is :)  (is there any difference by the way? other than a free t-shirt and game or w.e. it is haha, not quite sure why I keep seeing "Sandy")

Dropped the Blu Ray player as well, maybe I'll pick one up if I see a deal as you said. Otherwise...I'll occupy myself with Netflix, Games, and streaming. Thanks for knocking some sense into me!

The cooler your suggesting will be more than enough right? Since I suppose overclocking will be in the near future (and some components come like that already right?) With the money I save buying your suggestion upgrading to the XFX PSU doesn't bother me.

:edit: forgot to mention I'm not exactly near a micro center. I mean...if it was crazy savings I could make a trip...but it would probably be an 1hr drive.
November 21, 2011 3:00:06 PM

Ordered the CPU and Cooling Unit you suggested for 219$! I would have spent 209+69$= 278$! Nice savings of 59$.

Also I waited on amazon and I got a message that my RAM for 55$ just dropped to 35$! Almost bought 16gigs but I said I don't need it anyway, so 8 for now.

Monitors dropped to 147$ as well I posted earlier which I'll link again for some advice. (free shipping)

So far I've spent

219$ (cpu / cooler)
37$ (8gig ram)
180$ (120gig SSD)
$247.20 -20$ rebate = 227$+ Free Batman: Arkam City (Video Card)
125$ - 30$ rebate = 95$ PSU (took your advice! it was actually cheaper w/ rebate by 10$ and it's 100 watt more!)

= 758$

W/ the current motherboard I come to ($912 w/ rebate) not including the case. Gonna try my hardest to stay below 950$ now. Hopefully some new deals come up that will pay to return what I ordered already.

Just need to figure out my case situation still (missed out on a sick deal for the A90 w/ a rebate! Would have been like 50$ /cry)

and see if I can't find a few more deals with the motherboard.

:EDIT: (just purchased the below, still wondering though!)

If anyone can verify, I was going to buy this
instead or purchasing it at Tigerdirect. Same price, but they throw in a free copy of Batman: Arkam City. Only difference I could find was one said Overclocked in the title on tigerdirect, this is where specs get confusing for me. Otherwise! Everything literally matched up.

Best solution

November 21, 2011 8:57:05 PM

RAM: Don't get slower than 1600MHZ Cas Latency 9 RAM. The Kingston stuff linked in your first post is solid--and a steal at $35! you want cheap or a good large mid tower? Neither will impact your performance significantly. Here's a great low cost case for $35. It's typically $55:
Here's a great high-end case for $90. It's typicall $130:
Here's another option, but it's not as good as the Corsair above:
I didn't see any other particularly nice deals.

Monitor: Consider this $120 Samsung 22" LED
I don't know a ton about monitors, so it might not do everything you want it to (I'll let you know if I don't know about a specific part).

CPU/Cooler: NCIX is price-matching Microcenter's $179.99 i5-2500K. So you'll want to call their customer service and see if they'll give you the price match price for your purchase. You might have to cancel and then attempt a price match through their website. Keep in mind that you could alternately get that solid CoolIT Eco water cooler for a good deal at NCIX if they price match:

November 21, 2011 9:11:25 PM

They fully shipped my CPU already, so I imagine it may be a little late to cancel (stuck with paying a return fee if it's shipped now I believe as well)

Question though. It's 10$ cheaper w/ MC. Now I purchased mine for 189 + the cooler for 29$. Wouldn't I lose out on the cooler deal? It's normally 49$ separate.

Sorry if I'm slightly lost, totally new to this price matching stuff and deals. I hear Micro center drops down to 150$ sometimes to though! So I'll def. just order another one and price compare it.
November 21, 2011 9:40:48 PM

Ehhh...don't worry about it. You got a great air cooler and CPU for a great price. Micro Center only had it at $150 once about a month ago. It probably won't do that again for a while. But that's where I'd be on Black Friday.
November 21, 2011 10:09:02 PM

I'll try not stress it :) 

Seems I just missed out on that first case you posted! Deal was expired! I'm def. gonna try and stick with a 50$-75$ case though (or cheaper if it's nice!)

The case and motherboard are what will break my 1000$ budget haha. I'll keep my fingers crossed that a good deal comes up! I don't really understand how I know the case will work with my other items though...(literally don't understand how I know everything will fit)
November 21, 2011 10:44:09 PM

How's this case for 55$? It's refurbished <== don't mind though. Or 60$ new.

Like I said, not sure if it's compatible though. If anyone is interested in a quick school lesson on picking a case I'm all ears. did read a few guides but I'm still a little iffy haha!
November 21, 2011 10:59:46 PM

Here's what you need in a case:
1) ATX (most are)
2) Fits a ATX motherboard (as opposed to a mini ATX case that only fits mATX boards)
3) Enough space for a graphics card (look at Newegg reviews. 11" should be enough for most, I'd go for 12".)
4) Bottom mounted PSU (facilitates venting air out the top, which is good because hot air rises.
5) Some decent fans for venting.
November 21, 2011 11:04:07 PM

Awesome, that will give me plenty of information! Luckily I'm heading to class so I might get a few opinions in person. Your deal is still on Best Buy for 35$ though! So's 1-2 week wait but free shipping. Tempting (just not sure if I'm happy keeping that case, which is kind of dumb for a budget build)
November 21, 2011 11:04:20 PM

The case you linked is just fine. But you can find it new for $60, so I'd go with that.

If you'd like to save some money, my friend has a Thermaltake V4 (or is V3, they're almost identical). It's a solid case and one of the cheapest. The manufacturing tolerances aren't at the same level of a $100 case, so you'll have to use a little force to slide things into place sometimes, but it works very well and looks good: $40
Newegg page for more info:

The case will fit a GTX 470 (I put one in it last weekend). It is a little narrow for some of the taller coolers, but won't have any issues with your cooler.
November 22, 2011 2:40:51 AM

Thanks for all the advice Dalauder. I think I'm just going to spend the extra few bucks, stop penny pinching since I did a decent job saving already and see if I can't get the original case I was interested in. Same deal with the motherboard. If I don't see any decent price drop in the next week I'll just go ahead and buy it.

ALSO! I hope I did alright here :)  242$ for 2 monitors. This is what I got,

Samsung SyncMaster BX2231 22-inch Widescreen LCD Monitor - 1920 x 1080 - 250

Decent size, it has 2ms response, and it also has 2 HDMI ports each which is great. Resolution seems good, and the reviews I could find said the quality was pretty crisp. Hope I didn't screw myself on this one!
November 22, 2011 4:12:53 AM

That's a good price, but not outrageously low enough to be worried. Samsungs are nearly always good. There's a 50/50 chance the Antec 300 Illusion will go on sale for $55 or less in the next week. Newegg has it on sale regularly. Just keep an eye on their deals emails or (or somewhere similar).
November 23, 2011 3:37:46 AM

Thanks for the suggestions! I at least have a great idea of what I'm going to do now (and some wealth of information too!)

Thermaltake A60 is still about 65$ w/ rebate so I may just grab that if I can't find something in the next few days. I take it's still better than the HAF 922 right? For a few $$$ more if it's better I don't mind since I do enjoy the look of it.

Either way I suppose I'll be picking up one or the other as they seem to be the best deal.

Once I buy that all I need to do is pick up my motherboard which is here for 149 w/ rebate. Just making sure that's the best choice again! (and waiting to see if the price may far I've gotten a deal on everything!)
November 23, 2011 4:06:34 AM

It's pretty much the same as the HAF 922--they say the HAF 922 has particularly good cooling. I'm not too big a fan of the design though. I think my friend's Dad got one of those (the A60) after my friend got the V4 and his Dad thought it was outrageous for anything on his son's computer to be better (my friend is 21 and living with his parents while in school). Of course his dad has an SSD now to spite him.

As far as the all depends on how hardcore an overclocker you are. If you won't be using the front panel USB 3.0 (if your case doesn't support it), then I'm not sure if there's anything at all wrong with the ASRock Extreme3 Z68. If you do want front panel USB, then a premium case like the Corsair Carbide linked above for $90 might be worth it. (That Gigabyte mobo you linked has internal USB 3.0 headers). USB 3.0 flash drives are actually cheap now (Newegg had a 32GB Corsair Voyager USB 3.0 for $24.99) and are 10x faster.
November 23, 2011 4:34:06 AM

:EDIT: Just added up all my transactions and subtracted the rebates I should be getting! Much less than I thought! 889$ unless I did the math wrong :p  and 1129$ w/ the monitors! Originally I had a lesser machine for 1100$ not including monitors :)  That's some serious help I got here! Now to wait for my parts to come in and building the machine! (time to learn some and make sure I have all the small parts I should need)

Hrmmm, what you just pointed out seemed to make me settle on the A60. It has a USB 3.0 and I also did plan on overclocking to get the most out of my machine so I'll stick w/ my MOBO.

On the bright side :)  I've made some big time upgrades and managed to drop the price from 1100$ to 970$! (1170$ w/ dual screen 22') I think it's time to just buy this so I can start enjoying it sooner already haha

now all I need (okay want!) is a gaming mouse like the razer naga and a gaming keyboard!

:edit: ordered the MOBO and case! 30$ back between the both in rebates. Also, made the 20$ coupon deal I believe. So I'll have 20$ towards another purchase (of 150$ so it's meh) (not sure what I'll buy yet! maybe a blu ray deal haha!)
November 23, 2011 6:17:11 AM

KcThrows said:

now all I need (okay want!) is a gaming mouse like the razer naga and a gaming keyboard!

Get the Roccat Arvo Gaming Keyboard! If you need a compact gaming keyboard and not a full-size one.

Heres a review:
if you wanna check it out..

Hope it helps :D 
November 25, 2011 4:46:07 AM

Hey, thanks for the keyboard suggestions. I think I'm going to aim for a full keyboard though w/ some sort of added keys on the side for macros.

Also had another question for dual screen. I have three HDMI cables, obviously I'll need two and the other I figured I'll either have for my console (360, PS3, or w.e). My question is since my video card only has x1 HDMI mini (w/ adapter) and x2 DVI ports how do I properly go about this?

I understand the whole "windows 7" set up. I mean components wise. Having a hard time understanding what I need to purchase to set this up properly to make sure I still get the best quality. Just in case here is a link to the monitors I own.

Thanks again everyone! (and so far looks like purchases are holding up to Black Friday!)
November 27, 2011 10:02:31 PM

You'll need a DVI-to-HDMI adapter. One of those may come with your graphics card. It's strange that monitor does not come with DVI-in.
November 28, 2011 6:39:57 AM

yeah I wouldn't trus that website .. seaboom really ?
for a veteran u r pretty lousy adviser
November 28, 2011 9:26:23 PM

madchemist83 said:
yeah I wouldn't trus that website .. seaboom really ?
for a veteran u r pretty lousy adviser
Do you have any basis for that statement or are you just talking trash for kicks? Because a VERY quick google search shows they have pretty good reviews:

For a "Regular", you sure don't put much effort into actually trying to be helpful.

I'd appreciate if you scrolled up and explained how my other advice was "pretty lousy" if you could give better advice. Although I'm guessing you're more here to troll than help the OP. Go ahead and prove me wrong though.
November 28, 2011 10:11:10 PM

Thread attention :D 

@mad - He helped me set up a pretty nice PC if I may say so!

To add on to my build! Added a Blu Ray Writer / Player! Got 50$ for Xmas early (grandparents /love) So I spent the extra 15$ I went for it! Why the hell not right? I love high quality now that I've seen it....

Also, was given a second 500GB internal hard drive, So I'm sitting at 1TB between two HD's and 120GB w/ a SSD. Now all I need is a nice portable 750-1TB hard drive if possible. Missed out on the good in store sales though :X

Checked all the prices for anyone wondering! The only things that were cheaper between Black Friday / Cyber Monday was a SSD, but by 10$ tops and w/ shipping + tax it ended up being close to 200$.

The Thermaltake A60 case was much nicer in person! I love it! Good size as well, I can only imagine a full size case :X Would not fit in my tiny closet of a room!

Lastly, I do need to figure out one problem still...which I imagine will cost me 100$ or so. I have a coaxial (cable) wire running to my room. But no cable box. Now, I have cablevision (iO, New York location). One room has an HD box, two others are basic. Does anyone have suggestions for the best set up? I would like to record shows so I don't have to torrent what I miss. I imagine a Dual TV TUNER? Not sure what other than that..or programs I may need? Or if I actually need a cable box...what do I use to change channels, etc etc? Couldn't find a great source..was debating just calling my ISP about it since I have the 3 in 1 service.

Also (sorry!) I purchased a wireless USB device, and I have an older internal wireless card. So I was looking into network loading. I do have access (I have permission) to a separate wireless connection and my wired internet service. If anyone has some recent information on accomplishing this that would be great! Most of the stuff I found was severely outdated.

Thanks again all! Once my motherboard comes in I'll show off my new first build!


@dal - Will this work by the way for hooking up my second monitor? Figured I'll use the HDMI to HDMI for one, and that DVI to HDMI cable for the other? Since my monitor has HDMI, and DVI, and my video card has 1 HDMI, and the rest DVI.
November 28, 2011 11:34:41 PM

didn't say anything about other advises .. just that one
and if u go on their website they sell stuff from like 2001 .. and never update the inventory and I've seen some people complain that product arrive not completed or totally wrong .. so with all due respect .. research a bit more .. past google
November 28, 2011 11:41:36 PM

With the USB wireless adapter, you just install the driver (Windows may do this automatically), then connect to wireless just like you're using a laptop. I'm not sure what you mean beyond that. I don't know of a utility in bridging the ethernet(wired)/wireless connections together.

That cable you linked should work, but this DVI-male to HDMI-female should work too:

And you should start a new thread on the TV tuner stuff. I don't know about that.
November 29, 2011 1:20:35 AM

dalauder said:
With the USB wireless adapter, you just install the driver (Windows may do this automatically), then connect to wireless just like you're using a laptop. I'm not sure what you mean beyond that. I don't know of a utility in bridging the ethernet(wired)/wireless connections together.

That cable you linked should work, but this DVI-male to HDMI-female should work too:

And you should start a new thread on the TV tuner stuff. I don't know about that.

just ordered! thanks for the link...con though would be a month for estimated shipping -_-

as far as what I mentioned before I mean combining two internet connections. I believe the term is network loading. Any google search of "taking advantage of two internet connections" or something similar would give a better idea if your interested.

I'll start a new thread for the TV Tuner as well thanks.

@anyone Before I start another topic for my Western Digital HD as well, anyone have an answer to getting it back to factory status? Should I be fine just downloading their software and doing a complete format vs the quick?
November 29, 2011 2:41:59 AM

Oh? A month for estimated shipping? That's probably not worth it. You can probably cancel and order something else similar on

Reformatting/repartioning your Western Digital HD (WD HDD)--You can reformat & repartition any non-system partition from Windows easily.
1) Just right-click "My Computer" and choose "Manage".
2) Click on the "Disk Management" item. It will show all of your attached disks separately--showing the partitions on each disk. Raid Arrays will appear as a single disk.
3) Right-click on partitions to get options (like "Delete Volume"). After you delete all the partitions, you have [more or less] effectively restored your factory default disk.
4) Now re-partition the disk as you see fit and format the partitions to start using it.

Note: This method does not "clean erase" data so that Soviet spys (or geeks) can't recover it.
November 29, 2011 3:19:29 AM

Don't worry we can recover anything mwuahahahaha :-D
November 29, 2011 6:58:10 PM

I'm not worried about anyone recovering stuff :p  Just wanna make sure it's working perfect is all haha! I don't like stupid problems down the road :X

Supposedly Windows 7 automatically uses the two connections by the way, and if it doesn't work I saved a few things to edit which should work.
November 29, 2011 8:35:14 PM

KcThrows said:
I'm not worried about anyone recovering stuff :p  Just wanna make sure it's working perfect is all haha! I don't like stupid problems down the road :X

Supposedly Windows 7 automatically uses the two connections by the way, and if it doesn't work I saved a few things to edit which should work.
Seatools is a decent program to check hard drive health:
I recommend you run it several iterations of tests if you think a drive is failing and it passes the first test(s). But you may have merely meant how to re-partition a drive, which I answered in the previous post.

I occasionally use both a wired and wireless connection on my desktop and haven't noticed a benefit. You can try it if you like though. Let me know if you find anything good on it.
December 15, 2011 6:32:43 AM

Hey everyone, the PC is running pretty awesome! The only bad choice I made was not putting the OS on the SSD. I did it finally and boot time is literally 3 seconds w/ loading! It's incredible! I think my other HDDs are in need of replacing. I did start another thread though to see if I can get around the hassle of reinstalling everything since everything is currently on my F: drive other than the new OS.

and a quick note before I kill the thread, this rig easily plays everything on Ultra (maxed) settings! I can run multiple things at once no problem, and the dual screen was a great idea! Hopefully when I get a TV tuner card I can play games and watch TV :p 
December 15, 2011 6:33:32 AM

Best answer selected by kcthrows.
December 15, 2011 11:09:51 PM

The only stuff you can really move to the SSD is Steam. Almost anything else will need a reinstall--shy of small programs like GPU-Z, which don't do installs.