Upgrade? Or SSD? Or nothing? Or... Some help please!

[frogsofwar]

First of all. I'm a cash strapped teenager. I really enjoy anything relating to computers and built my first one this summer. I basically spent all the money I made this summer on this computer. I would like to know the best thing to upgrade. My motherboard isn't very good and can't SLI, and my psu is CM junk. Right before purchase this June, prices went up on the motherboard and PSU, and I didn't do enough research in those parts. I would like to know the best way to upgrade my computer, as I'm not quite satisfied. Here is my spec.

Case:Storm Scout
Psu: CM GX750
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z68-D3-B3
Proc:i3-2100
HDD:WD 500gb no ssd
GPU: EVGA GTX 460

I was thinking of getting a new motherboard, psu, and another GTX 460. I was also considering just buying a 64-128gb ssd. What would you recommend? If I went the first route, through x-mas money and my chore money, I was thinking of doing this.
Mobo: This ASUS P8Z68-V Pro GEN3 (is pcie 3.0 necessary?) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UDITT6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER or
ASRock Extreme 3 Gen3 (is asrock's quality good?) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157271
Another EVGA GTX 460 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZMTPEW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
And a much better quality psu? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E98FVS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I'd also need a new copy for windows because I got OEM last time... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DHGMK0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

And I guess new thermal paste but I don't need to link that do I?

And 650 is TOPS! As in not another dime if possible... Below is better though! Thanks for advice!

If I went SSD for a boot drive what would I need to do to my computer to optimize it right?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820139601
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148442

 

[geofelt]

In what way do you feel your pc is lacking?

If your fps is a bit slow, graphics upgrade is in order.
I would not go sli unless I had to. Just sell your GTX460, and get a stronger card like a GTX570 or 6950. About $340

As long as your psu is not failing, it should support any single graphics card made today.

If your cpu is the weak point, I have heard of black friday sales of GTX2500K at microcenter for $150.

Your motherboard is fine so long as you stick with a great single card.
Even if you replaced your motherboard, MS will let you reactivate oem on a replacement motherboard.

SSD's are nice. Jump on this deal of a Intel 320 80gb ssd for $80 after rebates:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167048
Keep your slow stuff and overflow on the hard drive.


You should be able to do all that and beat your budget by a bunch.

 

[inzone]

Some of these items might be Black Friday sale items so be aware.

ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard $124.99 and a $10 rebate with free shipping.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157271

Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $174.99 and a $30 rebate with free shipping.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233191

EVGA 012-P3-1571-AR GeForce GTX 570 HD w/Display-Port (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card $339.99

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130621

This would come to $639.97 and then you would have $40 in rebates to bring it down to $600. You could then turn around and sell the GTX460 and the motherboard and use that money to get a new power supply if you feel you need one , and if you do get one at about 850w so that if you want to SLI later on down the road you will already have the psu. The 570 will give you great performance and if you save for another then you will have the ability to play just about any game at the highest settings.
A good psu to consider later on;

High Current Pro HCP-850 850W TX12V v2.3 / EPS12V v2.92 SLI Certified CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply $179.99

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371053

 

[frogsofwar]

MS will let you reactivate oem on a replacement motherboard.

Could you link to somewhere that says that? I got this off of a microsoft website.
"Q. Can a PC with an OEM Windows operating system have its motherboard upgraded and keep the same license? What if it was replaced because it was defective?
A. Generally, an end user can upgrade or replace all of the hardware components on a computer—except the motherboard—and still retain the license for the original Microsoft OEM operating system software. If the motherboard is upgraded or replaced for reasons other than a defect, then a new computer has been created. Microsoft OEM operating system software cannot be transferred to the new computer, and the license of new operating system software is required. If the motherboard is replaced because it is defective, you do not need to acquire a new operating system license for the PC as long as the replacement motherboard is the same make/model or the same manufacturer's replacement/equivalent, as defined by the manufacturer's warranty.

The reason for this licensing rule primarily relates to the End User Software License Terms and the support of the software covered by that End User Software License Terms. The End User Software License Terms is a set of usage rights granted to the end user by the PC manufacturer and relates only to rights for that software as installed on that particular PC. The system builder is required to support the software on the original PC. Understanding that end users, over time, upgrade their PCs with different components, Microsoft needed to have one base component "left standing" that would still define the original PC. Since the motherboard contains the CPU and is the "heart and soul" of the PC, when the motherboard is replaced (for reasons other than defect) a new PC is essentially created. The original system builder did not manufacture this new PC, and therefore cannot be expected to support it.

I would not go sli unless I had to.

Why would you not recommend SLI?

Are the SSD's I linked any good? I realize that SSD's aren't going to be able to store everything. But do I just need to move where the Libraries are located? (photos, movies, documents thing)

 

[geofelt]

Many users have reactivated oem with a different motherboard successfully. Perhaps they are pushing past legality, but MS is mostly interested in only one license per pc, and so long as that license is not used on more than one, they seem to be ok with it. If you get another license, get an upgrade version which is priced the same as oem and is considered to be retail and transferrable.

I currently think Intel and samsung have the fewest issues, but all are good.

At that price range, I would jump on this deal for an Intel 320 160gb ssd for $155 after rebate:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167053

I would use the ssd primarily for the os and apps. Use the hard drive for larger sequential files like movies.

 

[frogsofwar]

I don't want to do anything that could be considered illegal as my morale won't allow it. But I don't follow what your saying with the upgrade version. Would I buy that and install it before I buy a new mobo if I got a new mobo?

 

[inzone]

You would buy the upgrade version and then replace your MB and load the OS onto the SSD , when it asks you for the previous version of windows you can either put in the oem disk or let it see you have it on the old hdd all the upgrade version wants to see is that you had a prevoious install of Windows.

 

[geofelt]

I don't want to do anything that could be considered illegal as my morale won't allow it. But I don't follow what your saying with the upgrade version. Would I buy that and install it before I buy a new mobo if I got a new mobo?

You could do either.
Upgrade comes with both a 32 and 64 bit dvd. If your upgrade is from 32 bit to 64 bit, you can not do the upgrade while booted in 32 bit mode. For that, MS allows you to do a clean install without a previous os installed.

If, by any chance, you have a need for 2 or three copies of windows 7, they sell a family pack upgrade kit which allows you three activations for about $135.

 

[frogsofwar]

Gotcha, but to make sure i've got it right let me try to explain. I decide to get a new GPU, SSD, and motherboard. I want windows 7 to load on it so I also buy Windows 7 upgrade. Build my computer, turn computer on put in oem disc, than for activation put in code off of upgrade, and voila windows 7 legal! It would now be the equivalent to Windows 7 Retail. Am I correct?
And could you tell me the differences between the ASRock and ASUS I linked? I'm having a hard time figuring out whats better about the ASUS.

 

[geofelt]

I really think I would stick with your current motherboard, unless you think a GTX 570/GTX580 or GTX590 is not enough.
By the time you pay for a 850w psu($100), a sli motherboard($200) and a second GTX460($150) less the the proceeds of selling your GTX460(-$100), you come close to justifying a GTX580.

You save on the cost of a new motherboard, and the cost of a stronger psu for sli.
Some games do not play well with dual cards. Also, dual cards with lesser graphics cards are prone to microstuttering. That is an annoying skip while the two different cards render their half of the image in different times. It offsets some of the higher benchmark fps numbers.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-geforce-stutter-crossfire,2995.html

 

[inzone]

Asus owns ther company Asrock. The $125 MB is going to be a very good choice for you it's not expensive and it's not rock bottom , it just has some good features. With the Asus board you are paying for the name as well as the board.

 

[geofelt]

Gotcha, but to make sure i've got it right let me try to explain. I decide to get a new GPU, SSD, and motherboard. I want windows 7 to load on it so I also buy Windows 7 upgrade. Build my computer, turn computer on put in oem disc, than for activation put in code off of upgrade, and voila windows 7 legal! It would now be the equivalent to Windows 7 Retail. Am I correct?
And could you tell me the differences between the ASRock and ASUS I linked? I'm having a hard time figuring out whats better about the ASUS.

Not exactly.
I would install, using the upgrade dvd on the new SSD. Leave your old hard drive disconnected. Primarily so windows does not try to put a recovery partion on the old drive and get confused. Initially do not enter your activation code. You have 30 days to do that. When all works ok, Then attach your old drive and then then enter your activation code.
Windows should detect that you had an old os and activate. If you should run into any problems, retail gives you phone support for installation for 90 days.
Some time back, I had an issue because the install overwrote my old os on the drive, and called MS and they were very helpful. The solution then was to redo the upgrade again.
Windows said Ahah! I see an os, and activated.

 

[frogsofwar]

Now I've got it. Inzone, I see you have SLI have you had trouble with it? Yes I realize 3 580's would kill 2 460's...

Once I have Windows Activated could I transfer it next time I make a new comp?

 

[frogsofwar]

This is why I want to replace my PSU.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=188
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-GX-750-W-Power-Supply-Review/917/10

 

[geofelt]

This is why I want to replace my PSU.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=188
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-GX-750-W-Power-Supply-Review/917/10

No doubt, that you might have done better.
But, now that you have it, and it has been presumably working ok, and since you have a firm budget, why not try it?

If you think it might fail, then look for a good 600w psu. That should be ok to run a single GTX580.
This Antec 620W HCG is only $50 There are others <$70.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371048

 

[frogsofwar]

No doubt, that you might have done better.
But, now that you have it, and it has been presumably working ok, and since you have a firm budget, why not try it?

If you think it might fail, then look for a good 600w psu. That should be ok to run a single GTX580.
This Antec 620W HCG is only $50 There are others <$70.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371048

That's a good idea. I think if I upgrade my GPU, I'll upgrade my PSU too. The reviews said as long as your only pulling ~430 it's ok, and I doubt I pull any more than that. After careful review of your guys previous comments I think the best thing I could do would be add a SSD, without adding a new motherboard or psu.
For an SSD, synchronous is better, but by how much? Is a Corsair Force GT 120 any good? Or the 128gb Crucial M4? How about this? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227706
Are OCZ's really that bad? And I guess how much do you need for OS, and maybe two games?
Thanks so much!

Oh and it's really overall speed thats been bugging me some. I really also want to see how good SSD's are. Sometime I'll try SLI, just not this time.

Edit: Found this while searching the SSD forum. I'll see what the poll does.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/276600-32-120gb-vertex-crucial-corsair-force-series

And what about either this or the 128gb version. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147133

 

[geofelt]

That's a good idea. I think if I upgrade my GPU, I'll upgrade my PSU too. The reviews said as long as your only pulling ~430 it's ok, and I doubt I pull any more than that. After careful review of your guys previous comments I think the best thing I could do would be add a SSD, without adding a new motherboard or psu.
For an SSD, synchronous is better, but by how much? Is a Corsair Force GT 120 any good? Or the 128gb Crucial M4? How about this? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227706
Are OCZ's really that bad? And I guess how much do you need for OS, and maybe two games?
Thanks so much!

Oh and it's really overall speed thats been bugging me some. I really also want to see how good SSD's are. Sometime I'll try SLI, just not this time.

Edit: Found this while searching the SSD forum. I'll see what the poll does.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/276600-32-120gb-vertex-crucial-corsair-force-series

And what about either this or the 128gb version. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147133

Intel has some great rebates on their 320 series ssd's. You can get a 80gb ssd for $80 after rebate. That is enough for the OS and half a dozen games.
You will have no problems with Intel SSD's, and they perform well too.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167047

 

[frogsofwar]

That looks like a good SSD. I know Intel has the reputation for having the best reliability followed up by Samsung. After looking at the one you linked, which looks good, I had some questions.
It's a SATA II SSD, but I can use SATA III right? So why would I want to get SATA II? Just price? I'm willing to pay the extra and get a SAMSUNG 830 series. Would it be better to spend more on that? or get the Intel for it's price?

Edit: looked up that rebate, and it expires on the 28th so I couldn't get it.

 

[geofelt]

That looks like a good SSD. I know Intel has the reputation for having the best reliability followed up by Samsung. After looking at the one you linked, which looks good, I had some questions.
It's a SATA II SSD, but I can use SATA III right? So why would I want to get SATA II? Just price? I'm willing to pay the extra and get a SAMSUNG 830 series. Would it be better to spend more on that? or get the Intel for it's price?

Sata 2 and 3 are forward and backward compatible, no problem there.

Some of the newer ssd's can saturate sata 2 by a small amount, and that might limit their sequential speeds a bit.
Even the slowest will still be 23-x faster than a hard drive.

But, you buy a SSD for it's random i/o which is 50x the speed of a hard drive. That is what the os does mostly.

To my mind I would buy a larger intel 320 at $1 per gb vs a faster one with less capacity. Newegg is selling 120 and 160gb drives at that rate too.

 

[frogsofwar]

Trouble is though I'm not going to be able to grab that rebate.

 

[geofelt]

Trouble is though I'm not going to be able to grab that rebate.

Today is the 26 th. Find a way.

 

[frogsofwar]

Best answer selected by frogsofwar.