Internal HDD - Seagate 1TB HD 3.5 Sata 6.0 Gb/s (I think)
From ebay/gift. Cost approx. $99
So $900-$404 = $496 to spend on Mobo, Case, GPU, and I might get a new monitor but I can use my current one so far. Still staying at 1680x1050 if I am buying a new since I don't have space for bigger ones
As for the case, I was looking for ones under $90-100 that has cable management since it is my first time. Mid or Full Tower.
I would go with a cheaper case to put more money into the GPU
$50 Rosewill Case (if you got enough money saved up after Rosewill has a great $100 case as well)
$125 ASRock Z68 motherboard (or even the one around $110)
GTX 560 Ti or HD 6950 (~$240) would be more than enough for your current monitor, but you are close enough to possibly reach for a GTX 570 or 6970
You mentioned buying a new monitor in the other thread...
If you already have a 22" 1680x1050, don't waste your money upgrading to 1920x1080--spend that money on a graphics card. The 1920x1080 monitors have 17.5% more pixels--that means about 15% lower framerates. With a midrange card like yours, that will actually matter.
I have a 1920x1080 (1080p) monitor at work and a 1680x1050 at home. I don't notice enough of a difference to care between the two--but I would notice the fps difference (if they had comparable gaming cards). That's why I prefer resolutions no higher than 1600x900 on laptops--because anemic laptop graphics cards do better at lower resolutions. Personally, I prefer the shape of 1680x1050--it fits 11x17 construction drawings better.
Mobo & Case: There is really only one thing that matters since you don't overclock--USB 3.0. Make sure the mobo has internal USB 3.0 headers and the case has front panel USB 3.0. If you overclocked, you'd also want a case with good cooling and a mobo with better power regulation.
The $60 Lian Li case you linked has USB 3.0 and looks good enough to me.
GPU: If you're building a GAMING machine, then sacrifice as much as you can allow yourself to to get the best GPU possible. Now you already bought a 650W PSU--that means you shouldn't get better than a 6950 or GTX 560Ti graphics card. Since you don't overclock, a 6950 will get you better performance. If you do overclock graphics, then you can save yourself some cash not buying a factory overclocked card.
Thanks I did mention about the monitor in another thread. I guess I will keep the one I have. May I ask why I need the front panel USB 3.0? and internal USB 3.0 headers? I believe all of my external peripherals are only USB 2.0. (sorry, i'm not good with this stuff). I'm not overclocking anything as well.
Also what does it mean on the mobo 1600*
The RAM that I got is 1600
Because a USB drive or external hard drives also connect through USB. If you buy a flash stick anytime in the future, you will want to make sure it's USB 3.0 because it's 10x faster. That means that when you copy a movie to your flash stick, it'll take 10 seconds instead of two minutes. That means if you write an iso file to a USB, it'll take you 2 minutes instead of half an hour.
USB 3.0 will make your new flashsticks instant and avoid bottlenecks on your old ones.
Have you ever tried backing up your system to an external USB 2.0 HDD? It writes at 25MB/s. If it's USB 3.0, it'll do that at 100MB/s (limited by the HDD write speed).
So although your current devices don't use USB 3.0, everything you buy for storage in the next 6 years will. And you don't want to spend the same amount of money and have reduced functionality for the life of this computer system.
Ah I see, thank you for explaining. I'm also reading about the lower end GPUs and the people that review them said they can max games like Skyrim and BF3, the GPUs they were reviewing were the GTX 550Ti, the 6850 and 6870 Radeon
Yeah, they can play those games. But they'll play them on low or medium settings and not occasionally stutter. What reviews are you reading? Newegg ones are only useful for reliability. Read a Tom's Hardware review or something similar.