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Very first builds.

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November 30, 2011 6:31:57 AM

Hello I'm building a new rig for the very first time. Here's what I have so far:
(unfortunately I think I impulse bought the PSU, as on Tuesday there was a $50 one for a 600W, same brand)

Approximate Purchase Date: December 2011 (waiting for the rebates cycle?)

Budget Range: $900 Before rebates (though I already bought some of the parts. Also most of the rebates expire on 11.30.2011)

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, Browsing, Homework with CNIT

Parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, OS, probably Monitor

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: newegg.com or a recommended site

Country: USA

Parts Preferences: No preference for brand as I am not familiar, sorry.

Overclocking: No

SLI or Crossfire: No

Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050 (DVI-D I think)

Additional Comments:

I already have these parts:

CPU - Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$194.99 - got it on Cyber Monday

PSU - OCZ ZS Series 650W 80PLUS Bronze
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$79.99 - Got it on Cyber Monday

Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$29.99 - Also Cyber Monday

Internal HDD - Seagate 1TB HD 3.5 Sata 6.0 Gb/s (I think)
From ebay/gift. Cost approx. $99

So $900-$404 = $496 to spend on Mobo, Case, GPU, and I might get a new monitor but I can use my current one so far. Still staying at 1680x1050 if I am buying a new since I don't have space for bigger ones :D 
As for the case, I was looking for ones under $90-100 that has cable management since it is my first time. Mid or Full Tower.

Thanks in advance!

edit* I meant to type "Very first build" in title

More about : builds

November 30, 2011 6:40:25 AM

I would go with a cheaper case to put more money into the GPU

$50 Rosewill Case (if you got enough money saved up after Rosewill has a great $100 case as well)
$125 ASRock Z68 motherboard (or even the one around $110)
GTX 560 Ti or HD 6950 (~$240) would be more than enough for your current monitor, but you are close enough to possibly reach for a GTX 570 or 6970
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November 30, 2011 6:57:51 AM

rcaladlr said:
Hello I'm building a new rig for the very first time.

Not just "the first time", but "the very first time"? :) 

If your budget will stretch, you might consider one of the new GTX560 Ti-448 cards. Newly introduced. Near 570 performance at a price between the regular 560 Ti and the 570.

And while you are waiting for parts to arrive, I recommend looking at these threads:

Build it yourself:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/274745-13-step-step...

And although this primarily a troubleshooting thread, the first part contains a checklist that will catch most noob mistakes:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
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November 30, 2011 5:08:17 PM

Very first time indeed :D 

Thanks for the advice, but yes I was thinking of buying a cheap Case so I can stretch the GPU price. I'm wanted a GPU for less than $200.

Also I found some cases on sale today:
LIAN LI Lancool First Knight Series PC-K57W Black SECC / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Rosewill FUTURE Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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November 30, 2011 8:43:32 PM

You mentioned buying a new monitor in the other thread...

If you already have a 22" 1680x1050, don't waste your money upgrading to 1920x1080--spend that money on a graphics card. The 1920x1080 monitors have 17.5% more pixels--that means about 15% lower framerates. With a midrange card like yours, that will actually matter.

I have a 1920x1080 (1080p) monitor at work and a 1680x1050 at home. I don't notice enough of a difference to care between the two--but I would notice the fps difference (if they had comparable gaming cards). That's why I prefer resolutions no higher than 1600x900 on laptops--because anemic laptop graphics cards do better at lower resolutions. Personally, I prefer the shape of 1680x1050--it fits 11x17 construction drawings better.
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Best solution

November 30, 2011 9:24:42 PM

$496 on mobo, case, & GPU...

Mobo & Case: There is really only one thing that matters since you don't overclock--USB 3.0. Make sure the mobo has internal USB 3.0 headers and the case has front panel USB 3.0. If you overclocked, you'd also want a case with good cooling and a mobo with better power regulation.

The $60 Lian Li case you linked has USB 3.0 and looks good enough to me.

This is the cheapest SLI capable motherboard I could find with internal USB 3.0 headers: $118 (shipping) MSI Z68A-G45 (B3) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
I'd stick to ASUS, Gigabyte, ASRock, or MSI for the mobo brand.

GPU: If you're building a GAMING machine, then sacrifice as much as you can allow yourself to to get the best GPU possible. Now you already bought a 650W PSU--that means you shouldn't get better than a 6950 or GTX 560Ti graphics card. Since you don't overclock, a 6950 will get you better performance. If you do overclock graphics, then you can save yourself some cash not buying a factory overclocked card.

$229 6950 1GB OC: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$215 (AR) GTX 560Ti: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

TOTAL = $118+ $60 + $229 = $407

EDIT: Here's a Radeon 6950 2GB for $215 w/ bios unlock: http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3634744
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November 30, 2011 11:11:49 PM

Thanks I did mention about the monitor in another thread. I guess I will keep the one I have. May I ask why I need the front panel USB 3.0? and internal USB 3.0 headers? I believe all of my external peripherals are only USB 2.0. (sorry, i'm not good with this stuff). I'm not overclocking anything as well.

Also what does it mean on the mobo 1600*
The RAM that I got is 1600

Thanks again for the advice!
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November 30, 2011 11:31:29 PM

Because a USB drive or external hard drives also connect through USB. If you buy a flash stick anytime in the future, you will want to make sure it's USB 3.0 because it's 10x faster. That means that when you copy a movie to your flash stick, it'll take 10 seconds instead of two minutes. That means if you write an iso file to a USB, it'll take you 2 minutes instead of half an hour.

USB 3.0 will make your new flashsticks instant and avoid bottlenecks on your old ones.

Have you ever tried backing up your system to an external USB 2.0 HDD? It writes at 25MB/s. If it's USB 3.0, it'll do that at 100MB/s (limited by the HDD write speed).

So although your current devices don't use USB 3.0, everything you buy for storage in the next 6 years will. And you don't want to spend the same amount of money and have reduced functionality for the life of this computer system.
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November 30, 2011 11:35:33 PM

Ah I see, thank you for explaining. I'm also reading about the lower end GPUs and the people that review them said they can max games like Skyrim and BF3, the GPUs they were reviewing were the GTX 550Ti, the 6850 and 6870 Radeon
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December 1, 2011 1:40:42 AM

Yeah, they can play those games. But they'll play them on low or medium settings and not occasionally stutter. What reviews are you reading? Newegg ones are only useful for reliability. Read a Tom's Hardware review or something similar.

Btw, $185 GTX 560Ti: http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3639948
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December 1, 2011 5:46:08 AM

Thanks. I read the reviews in newegg. They probably OC the stuff. Some reviewers claim to run max and no stutter :D 
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December 1, 2011 9:01:46 PM

rcaladlr said:
Thanks. I read the reviews in newegg. They probably OC the stuff. Some reviewers claim to run max and no stutter :D 
They may OC and max Skyrim, but not BF3 with less than dual GTX 560Ti's...unless they're playing at 1280x1024.
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December 4, 2011 3:52:58 PM

Best answer selected by rcaladlr.
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