Hi! I'm planning on ordering a desktop from CyberPower. This is my first custom PC I've ever ordered, so I'd like some help with getting the best price out of the most power. I'm trying to keep it around $1075 but I'm not sure I'll be able to achieve that with the power I want. So I'll post all of the specs I currently have, and I'd like some feedback on how I can improve it.
Base Model: Gamer Xtreme 1000 SE
Case: Thermaltake Commander Mid-tower Gaming Case
Default Case fans
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K
Cooling: Asetek 510LC Liquid Cooling System
Motherboard: GigaByte GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3
Memory: 8GB (2GBx4) DDR3/1600MHz
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 570 1.2GB
(Comes with Arkham City and Just Cause 2)
Power: 1,000 Watts - Raidmax RX 1000AE 80 plus
Hard Drive: 500GB SATA-II 3.0GB/s 16MB cache 7200RPM
Optical Drive: 24X Double Layer Dual Format Drive
Onboard Wi-Fi: Zonet ZEW1642S
Windows Home Premium 64 bit
Rush Service: Get it Before Christmas. (This adds about $50)
Currently it's at $1137 before mail in rebates. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
Can you get 2x 560TIs for less than 1x 570? I don't think so, not if you are buying at the lowest possible 570 prices.
A 560 TI should be about 220 and a 570 about 330.
You would have to drop back to about 2x 6870s to get them each for ~165.
That still wouldn't beat the 570, though.
To get each card for ~120 you would have to drop to about 2x 6790s in order to knock ~$100 off the total price. Those two things in x2 would probably not beat the 570x1.
Also, I have heard of P8Z68 + Hyper 212 has created problems for some people so more research should be done into that before the trigger gets pulled.
2x GTX 570s won't overload an 850w PSU.
Each card has 2x 6 pin PCIE power connectors and an attachment to the motherboard. Each one of those things gives 75w max capacity. 225 max capacity on the lines per card = 450 max juice from video cards. The rest of the system won't be another 400w.
Get a Seasonic 850 and skip the Raidmax.
My question is why you want the processor cooling replacement anyway. Are you trying to massively OC on a budget?
TBH, I wouldn't try to massively OC if your post purchase budget is going to be 0 for a long time. Some people OC for the cost of a good cooler and some people OC and blow something up and invite themselves to spend another $150 too. If you are OCing, I would seriously consider leaving budget wiggle room after everything is said and done for that reason.
1x 570 will probably keep you from needing to OC anything anyway unless you absolutely have to play with 4xAA on ultra settings on every game or something.
You could get a case with a lot of side fan action like mine and do fine enough with stock CPU cooling on a small to mid CPU OC and save the whole price as well as all the hassle that comes with liquid cooling.
So I have actually already received my computer, and I can't wait for Christmas to set it up. I have mostly the same specs as what I put in the first post. The only differences I notice are that I got the D3H instead of the D2H motherboard, EVGA superclocked 570, and I got the Raidmax 850w instead of 1000w. I know Raidmax isn't the best, but they have good prices, and they'll do what I need them to do(right?). And I know that the liquid cooling system I have isn't the best either, but as with the psu, it'll do what I need. So are there any things I should still be wary of? Also, I know this is changing the topic, but what are some pieces of software that should be installed on all gaming PCs? I don't mean like Steam, I meant more things like MSI Afterburner and utilities like that.
Your PSU can destroy your video card, you do understand this right?
It would have been better to drop down to a 6950 and buy a good PSU with the change.
In any event, I guess you will probably be fine as long as you don't try to get even close to the stated wattage out of it.
Andyson is the OEM for your model of PSU, I think, and it is also the OEM for such varied and awful brands such as Hiper, Aerocool, and Sunbeam.
Anyway, you have rolled the dice, I hope they come up with your lucky numbers.
Actually, no, I didn't know this. I knew it would affect performance, but I didn't know it could literally destroy the gpu. I do have some money left over, so maybe after a little while I will upgrade the psu. Is it possible, though, to even reach that wattage w/ the rig I have right now? Or would I need to SLI to reach that? Because if it's that much of a danger, then I'll definitely upgrade ASAP. I'm sorry I sound really stupid here, I just have never had a custom pc before. Thanks for the help and support
It is indeed possible that the PSU can destroy any part that it is connected to which is pretty much every part on the computer. I usually point out the video card because that is what people tend to care about the most, however, everything is to some extent vulnerable.
This is why you will find that the people on TH suggest only a very small number of different brands and why they always suggest the most expensive ones.
You get what you pay for.
If you save $20 on your PSU and your $200 video card gets killed because of it, then its a sad event. We try as hard as possible to ensure that doesn't happen and direct people as much as possible to the brands with the most trusted names and the ones with the lowest failure rates.
It is entirely possible that the one you have chosen will work adequately. It is also possible that it wont. Raidmax often outsources its PSU building to very very bad name OEMs. For instance, it has chosen Topower as its OEM for some models and that company is generally considered to be in the running for the worst PSU OEM ever.
Andyson is not an OEM that anyone here would suggest, so again your parts are in danger if you choose to use this PSU. If at all possible, I would try to return it unopened for a different brand instead.
Also, I want to make it quite clear that the wattage written on the labels cannot be trusted. If you would like, I will find you some links where professionals have tested a PSU only to see it completely destroy the PSU when even half of the wattage on the label is drawn from it with professional testing equipment.
I can also provide links that show other brands are conservative with their labelling and the tester can pull much more than the amount stated on the label without destroying the PSU.
In any event, how you proceed is up to you. I just would like you to go in with both eyes open as to the potential dangers.