How to paint HAF 922?

I'm want to paint the interior of my HAF 922 case.I was just wondering what type of paint should I use?

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  1. I asked the same question in this thread here:

    Moto told me to use and "rattlecans" or spray paint that you like and make sure to do a lot of light passes. As well more than one person has recommend sanding the case before painting it so that the paint will stick better.
  2. Well after searching around on other forums it seems you don't really need to sand it since i'm just painting the inside.But what are your thoughts on that?
  3. Im not sure, I going to paint it in the next couple of days to find out. I think sanding it will give it a finish similar to the exterior of the case while leaving it will give it a smoother finish.

    I am leaning towards just lightly sanding it with fine sand paper just to make sure the paint doesnt run everywhere.
  4. Sanding it gives the paint something to hold onto, and prevents it flaking off after ten minutes :)
    if you want a smooth finish lots of light coats will give you that,
    it just takes patience for a good finish
  5. How much sanding should happen?
  6. for preparation, I just lightly sand every part I can reach that I'm painting, (Tape up any parts not required to be painted)
    you can tell its sanded because it looks different to the original finish,
    it doesn't take much we're not talking heavy scoring here
    and obviously between coats, you just repeat, you don't want to sand off what you just painted on lol :)
  7. Here's something I found...

    See this is where I start to get confused.Do I sand it or not? Use primer or not?I was just hoping it would be as easy as striping everything down and applying a few coats of black paint.

    You can see how amazingly similar the scout sniper is to the HAF 922.I mean it's all the same thing except for the top handle.
  8. You can go the full hog like that tutorial shows, and that will give you a cracking show-finish, DONE PROPERLY! sorry for shouting but this is the key point,
    the more time you spend on this, the better it will end up, simple as.

    for your version of things,
    **I was just hoping it would be as easy as striping everything down and applying a few coats of black paint**

    the best approach in this scenario is as I said, some light sanding just to get a grip on the old surface, primer (if you want, i never have)
    and a few light coats, just pass over the case, don't stay on one area as that will saturate and lead to blobbing, which looks awful and makes you feel like you've wasted your time,
    take your time and it will pay you back, rush and you'll probably wish you hadn't bothered,
  9. Alright thanks for all the help.I think I know what I want to do now.
  10. No problem man, if you do paint up, why not do a log for others to see and get tips from?
  11. Hey just an update I painted mine it looks great with just some light sanding and 3-4 light coats of paint.

    I made a few mistakes by apply it to thick and it ran a bit and another where some leaf pieces got in the paint... They made a bit of a mess but they are cleaning up okay. Ill have a full log and pictures in a few days after all my mods.
  12. I have spraypainted a case before (Thermaltake Tai Chi) with cans (expensive one's too)

    I was not happy with the results, i did 5 coasts and 2 clear after that.

    then i took the case to a powdercoater and it cost me LESS than i spent in spray paint. he sandblasted it and powdercoated it and the finish is flawless and strong.

    spraypaing will come off with a light rub or bump. but the powdercoating is rock solid.

    I would atleast get a quote from a professional powder coater as it supprised me how cheap it was in the long run.
  13. i also used a grey primer first.

    spent around $100 on spray paint.

    Cost me $50 for the sandblasting (not required if i had not have spray painted first)
    and $100 for the powder coating.
  14. i also used a grey primer first.

    spent around $100 on spray paint.

    Cost me $50 for the sandblasting (not required if i had not have spray painted first)
    and $100 for the powder coating.
  15. I bought one can of paint for 5.49 and had some sandpaper around so it cost me almost nothing. I know the results wont be perfect but its the inside of the case and it is mostly covered in hardware anyways. If it was the outside I would have it done professionally or spend a little more money on it. But how I see it if I spend more than 30 dollars on the modding I might as well bought a 100$ case with the features already from the factory. And any half decent black paint looks better than the stock silver.
  16. yeah fair enough,.

    i know that the next case i mod I will definatly go the powder coating way again. but im more likley to do inside and outside of the case.
  17. That's what I was saying.If you spend close to $100 on a paint job and it's not custom you might as well just buy a new case.
  18. Depends on ur case.
    but I would not spend that type of money on a basic case.

    But i would have no issues spending $100 or more on an 800D or simmular top of the line case.
    thats why i'm still happy with mine, its an 11 bay full aluminium case that i can gaurnetee no-one has.
  19. Yah the higher end case's are something you could do that with.They are all mostly made of screws not rivets which makes it A LOT easier.
  20. Rivets?
    3mm drillbit
    No rivets :-)
  21. You Moto i would do the same,

    take it completly apart, get it painted and rivet it back together again. Just hate the amount of plastic on some cases today is why i have an old school case.
  22. Yah it's easy taking them out it's putting them back in is whats hard.
  23. I use the fat hdd/mobo screws but I have a huge stash of bits, re-rivetting is the best option though,
    And once the case is in bits it allows you to sand/paint more thoroughly
  24. That looks like a pain in the a$$.
  25. Well, the time you put into a mod reflects in the end product, rivetting can be a pita, but for a 'proper' finish its almost mandatory
    If your happy just screwing them back, or not removing parts thats fine, it is your case after all
  26. depends on what u value ur time at. i love modding, nothing better than the seeing the end product and knowing you made it look like that.

    which reminds me, ill be sleeving my PSU next week (just waiting on the heatshrink)
    ill post pics :)
  27. Another vote for powdercoating, awesome finished results and cheap. You can do it yourself as well like we have in the past. Pretty easy.
  28. Are their any certain paints I should use or look out for(hazerdous chemicals)?

    Was thinking of using this... paint&storeId=10051
  29. Can you use regular hand sandpaper for this? I kind of want to paint the interior of my 912..
  30. @stank, yup, rustoleum is a popular brand over there, read instructions as to precautions etc :)
    @Amuffin yes mate, I use 120 grit to key surfaces, it doesn't scratch too deeply but gives the paint a grip
  31. I eneded up using that paint I linked above as well as some 220grit sandpaper.

    Sanded everything down and cleaned it all up.Just finished painting and i'll let it dry for a couple hours and come back to it for some touch up(I know I missed some spots really hard to get into ever knook and craney).I'll post some pics later of the whole process.
  32. For painting bare metal, always start with a self-etching primer. This will prevent the paint from flaking as easily as the paint will adhere better to the self-etching primer than it will the bare metal or a standard "grey" primer.
  33. Here is the results of my HAF 922 painting using 200 grit sandpaper and some matte black paint from Home Depot.
  34. Looking good there :-)
  35. I forgot that I needed matte black paint lol.I ended up getting flat black.Oh well.
  36. purple stank said:
    I forgot that I needed matte black paint lol.I ended up getting flat black.Oh well.

    It is basically the same stuff, you will not notice a difference one your case is all together.
  37. Overall i'm really happy how it turned out.The only thing that went wrong was when I went back to do some touchup and I didn't realize my finger was over the spray nozzle and it dripped.So I got a few droplet on the back panel but it's no big deal.Really proud of it.
  38. Hehe, Good on you mate, now tidy those Gorram cables up!! :P
    glad it went well for you,
  39. Looks really good and I also had a few drips but on they were on the panel that covers cables so no one will ever see them.

    And I can feel your pain trying to hide cables in this case. There's lot of space behind the motherboard tray but that big top to bottom hole is a pain. Here is mine with all the hardware in:
  40. I didn't feel like cleaning the cables up that much cause I'm getting a new PSU this week.

    @Chris: I love the tiny fan on the bottom,lol.

    Is that a piece of black paper as a divider?
  41. purple stank said:
    I didn't feel like cleaning the cables up that much cause I'm getting a new PSU this week.

    @Chris: I love the tiny fan on the bottom,lol.

    Is that a piece of black paper as a divider?

    I wish I had a nice new modular PSU, but with a 8600GT I have other things to buy first...

    Its an old 92mm fan from my original case 5years ago. Placing it there dropped my GPU temps about 3 degrees on idle and cpu 2-4 degrees. And much more on full load.

    The black piece is some rubber called aquaproof. All the other cable managment holes are covered in it but with to pieces glued together then pulled over the steel just like the watercooling grommets at the back of the case. The Big piece is done the same way but needed a few pieces of tape on the back sided to hold it on.
  42. Modular is also kind of a pain.The PSU is about 3 inches longer and it makes fitting cables throguh that hole a much harder task.The whole expereince isn't as great as you think.But I could see the gain of having a smaller PSU,say a 500watt or less,since it's much easier to work with.

    Looks like it's time to change your profile pic.Mine too :)
  43. Yah I found that with a modular I only used 2 cables less.Not a big deal because they could just be stuffed in the back.But if a modular and a non modular are the same price for the same performance you might as well get the modular.You never know what you might need and might not so it's good to have it.But as that thread says it really depends on how much time you put into your cable management.

    And I believe the reason for having a fully modular PSU is so that it can be used as a 2nd PSU.You know those monster rigs that require a ton of power.If you were to only need the 6pin/8pin connectors.
  44. I personally think my next rig will be with a semi modular Psu because there is no need to have a modular 24 pin and sata power cables
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