6pin pcie into 8pin mobo, "noob" looking for advice

Hello, I recently built my first computer at a friend’s house. During the build I realized my PSU only had a 4 pin and my MOBO had an 8 pin. Instead of doing the research as I should have, I asked him if I should use the 6 pin pci-e plug. :fou: Now that you all are laughing at me for doing that, we all know my PSU took a crap. But… here is my issue. He gave me another PSU because he felt responsible. Turned on mobo (ambit pro 35) and all bios settings were stock. So I changed them back to my OC (q6600@3.4). After booting to windows I went to system and it says it a 3.8GHZ. Went back to bios and EIST and C1E are disabled, still windows shows 3.8 GHz when bios is set at 3.4 GHz. I played a game for a round and it was stable for that so I am assuming its 3.4 as bios shows. Also windows rating (experience index) thing will NOT test CPU it skips to RAM and say it can’t run test. HDD in computer for this test was NOT in when PSU blew.
What I am really asking is

“Will running this in its condition damage the CPU or ram?”

“Should I try to bake the board If its currently working-ish?”

“I know how to test capacitors but what else should I test when looking for fault?”

Entire system is disassembled (no noticeable marks on CPU, or RAM) motherboard components look fine but have darkened area on board (maybe heat damage?) Under the heat sink closest to the 8pin power plug (removing heat sink i found a bunch of little black 3-pin chips on board).
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  1. deepblue628 said:
    “Will running this in its condition damage the CPU or ram?”

    Honestly, it's impossble to know, unless you're able to see the future. All you can do at this point is test for stability. Download and install CPU-Z and HWMonitor

    deepblue628 said:
    “Should I try to bake the board If its currently working-ish?”

    deepblue628 said:
    “I know how to test capacitors but what else should I test when looking for fault?”
    Use a digital multimeter to test PSU voltages on the P1 connector. Check the link in my signature for instructions, if you don't know how to do this.

    Edit: I forgot to mention Prime95. This badboy will stress test your system to determine stability. Before running this test, make sure you manually configure your BIOS settings to their optimal values (even if you're not going to OC).
  2. Thank you very much :D , i will assemble tomorrow afternoon.

    First I will check the power supply as advised.

    Then I’ll go in with the monitor program and see what information I can see. I have CPUZ already and everything seemed ok although the core voltage has never moved on that even when changed in Bios.

    After that I will try to stress test it at the factory clock and post back on the outcome.
  3. Well the power supply checked out. :)

    Put it all back together and fired it up on factory settings. Computer locks up at windows loading screen… it starts to load windows 7 and freezes as soon as the colored dots emerge from the black every time. I lowered the clock speed to 1.ghz and it did not make it any further (thinking maybe it was not getting the power). I tried windows memory diagnosis and it found no errors. Also windows auto repair thing (forget what it is called) odd thing is both of those ran stable. Tried to reinstall windows but it says my cd drive needs a driver… not sure why… I also tried different ram chips in multiple dims all froze at same spot in windows and computer automatically resets. Trying to find a sata drive to test with incase something on the IDE route is toasted. Other ideas on where I can go from here?
  4. If memory serves, the CD drive error message happens because the installation can't detect the IDE ODD. You may have to disable IDE legacy mode in the BIOS. It's been a couple of years since I've had that problem on one of my installs.

    As for the problem with the freezing, I usually see that when there is instability between CPU & RAM. Clear CMOS by:

    1. Removing the CMOS battery (it looks like the size of a nickel and reads CR2032); or 2. Using the CLR_CMOS jumper (follow your mobo instruction manual)

    Also peform a S.M.A.R.T. test from the BIOS (if your BIOS has an option), otherwise, try the HDD manufacturer's website.
  5. alright, cleared CMOS first.

    test HDD in another computer and it booted to windows 7 without a problem. so the HDD checks out.

    Next i risked putting the RAM in my firends comp and found that it works great in his too. So RAM checks out.

    My Quad core q6600 boots windows but im still scared to run prime95 with it. i tried a dual core e4400 (friends) and i still locked loading windows at the colored dots. tired running 1.4vcore on the dual core and set the clock to 1.5ghz total. this time it made it a few smidges further. before i could only see one red windows dot now i see all three before it freezes.

    Went into bios monitor and the monitor show all the voltages are within spec. i double checked a couple on google to be sure.

    How can one CPU boot and not the other?

    What do i try from here?

    Really dont want to run the quad core and have it burn up :(
  6. deepblue628 said:
    My Quad core q6600 boots windows but im still scared to run prime95 with it...

    OK, that's fine, but just so you know, these CPUs have a thermal limit that they can take. Before this limit is reached, the CPU will shut down to prevent overheating. If you don't drastically raise the vCore temp, you don't have to worry about the CPU frying. Also, using Artic Silver 5 thermal paste with an aftermarket CPU cooler further reduces the overheating possibility. As long as you are comfortable with the way your CPU is performing, there is no need to stress test it. The suggestion was made just to see if the CPU was stable at your current OC.

    deepblue628 said:

    How can one CPU boot and not the other?

    Again, this calls into question stability. The settings you made in your BIOS was for the Q6600. The E4400 cannot handle the same settings. When swapping CPUs, you should always use the F7 key to reset your BIOS.

    deepblue628 said:

    What do i try from here?

    I'm a little confused. You mentioned that with your CPU installed, you can boot Windows. What else do you need?
  7. I am aware of the thermal limit but i still used cheap thermal stuff for testing both cpu’s

    Next i did reset the Bios for the dual core, that’s what has me worried. The dual core should have been more than ok to boot to windows and it did not make it.

    Finally i asked what else i can try because windows still sees the quad core as a 3.8 over clock or not. the temps within windows are fine and it appears stable, but if the dual core is having problems how do i know running the quad core is not frying it.

    Something went a-miss with this board when i plugged the 6 pin in. my question is do i still trust the vcore voltages windows and the bios see?

    If the if the processor is indeed getting the correct voltage can it still be damaged by whatever is causing this?

    (I know it’s not much to this community but I already lost half of my investment and I would hate to lose the other. If I should not be worried i will run the quad core as it seems to preform fine. Just don’t want to have it die too so I would rather take precautions and check out what I can. if i knew how to check anything other than capacitors i would go through part by part checking each one... but i dont) :(
  8. All of your components are designed to draw only the power they need to operate, but this also takes into consideration what you specify said components should be drawing/operating at. (http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php). Compare your voltages with your BIOS. If they're fairly similar, you shouldn't worry. If the voltages are vastly different, or if your system becomes too unstable, consider doing an RMA on your motherboard.

    Also, if you OC (correctly), the BIOS, POST, and any monitoring software should show very similar readings. I wouldn't rely on the System screen in Windows, as it isn't very detailed in its hardware detection.

    As for the E4400, did you see it in operation prior to installing it to verify it is in operating condition?
  9. Ok the voltages in bios are similar to those in windows minus the small v-drop. (.008v)

    The overclock in the q6600 was stable for a few months before i got the new power supply and messed this all up.

    As for the E4400 i was told it was working when friend lent it to me. He was confident to let me try it in his Mobo. At first it didnt work but he set voltages to auto and it started right up. think His OC settings were stopping the boot. it ran prime95 for about 10min and didnt crash so i would assume it works. tried it back in my board again to show him and it still locks up :(
  10. It's possible that your mobo doesn't support the E4400, but typically if this was a support issue, then you wouldn't even get past POST. Check the CPU support list for your motherboard on the manufacturer's website; and while you're at it, see if there are any BIOS updates that add support for the E4400.

    Ultimately, if you're going to use your system with the Q6600, install it with AS5 (and possibly an aftermarket CPU cooler). First, keep it at default settings, then verify the settings in CPU-Z. If CPU-Z is reporting your clock speed differently than what you have in the BIOS, I'd consider getting a new motherboard. If CPU-Z reflects the BIOS, shut down and redo your OC settings. Then check CPU-Z again. If CPU-Z matches your OC settings, run Prime95.
  11. the board supports the E4400, my bios are the most recent but there only one or two back. I'll have to try the q6600 and do the CPU-Z comparison with factory clock as advised. i might not get to it till Monday tho. guess then ill watch temps and voltage, run prime for a bit and hope somethings not killing it :sweat:
  12. waiting on 2 caps (one might be bubbled a little so replacing) doubt it will make a difference but want to wait for part before i move FWD
  13. cap replacement failed ... got new board off ebay to use for testing to make sure its not processor
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