New PC help

Hello, i am currently running a 780i sli with a q6600 with 8gigs of ddr2 and a 580gtx, a WD raptor 150gig drive, also i have a 750watt Silencer quad black psu.

i just bought an i5 2500k with a gigabyte z68AP-D3 motherboard, and 8gigs of sector 5 ddr3 ram.

when i turn it on it only stays on for say 10seconds then turns off then back on, ive disconnected everything exchanged the motherboard and cpu more than once, i disconnected all the peripherals and still does it

please help!
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  1. :hello: Welcome to the forums.

    What kind of PSU's in your two systems?

    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If no luck, continue.

    If a not new build (a formerly working computer), start here:
    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire (standby power supply): 5 volts always on. The green wire should also have 5 volts on it. It should go to 0 volts when you press the case power button (this is also a good way to test the power switch and the associated wiring), then back to 5 volts when you release the case power switch. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  2. thanks for the nice welcoming to the forums first off

    secondly i have a Silencer 750 EPS12V QUAD/BLACK, then it says PC POWER & COOLING

    uh actually i have done that list more than once over, i returned the mother board 3 times and cpu twice switched the ram out with my brothers to see if it was that but it was a no go as well (we have the same pc only his works lol) dont the whole cmos and everything, only thing different from mine to his is he bought a new psu where i didnt think i needed one because i have one that runs my old pc fine.

    any other tricks or tips would be helpful
  3. When you say

    i just bought an i5 2500k with a gigabyte z68AP-D3 motherboard, and 8gigs of sector 5 ddr3 ram.

    I don't see Case, PSU, HD, etc.....can I assume that you popped all the other stuff in from the old puter ? If so that ain't gonna work...... Ya gotta reinstall windows w/ new hardware.
  4. Download and run Memtest86 on the working PC.

    My best guess is that the RAM isn't all the way in or that the RAM itself is bad.

    You will have to reinstall windows, regardless, but if it turns off every 10 seconds and restarts you won't be able to do it till you get done sorting that problem out.

    If the restarts come with a blue screen of death, then just go straight to reinstaling windows. If you don't get that far, then do the RAM stuff.
  5. yes i used my old case its a full tower not sure on brand but its got plenty of fans and space, yes i used the old psu for the new one, and the old drive, the psu and hdd is working fine in the old pc and should...should work in the new one

    ya like i said i jsut built this same pc for my brother for xmas, so i jacked his ram and tested it in mine and it made no difference what so ever, only thing different from his to mine right now is the psu he got a 700watt ocz one, mines a 750watt power and cooling one

    its not windows or software, i dont get that far to do anything of the sorts, when i say 10secs i honestly mean count to 10 once you hit the power button and its off by then depending how fast you count
  6. I would suspect ram or a grounding issue. Try to breadboard it outside the case to make sure its not a grounding issue. Your old board might have a standoff where the new board doesn't and could be causing it to ground out.

    Another thing that will produce this issue is if you got excited and got into a hurry and forgot to plug in the CPU 4/8 pin 12v ATX power.
  7. Are you sure you are pushing the RAM in far enough into the slot?

    Far enough to get the tabs to come up isn't necessarily far enough to be all the way in the slot.
  8. ok so i called the store and went back up with cpu/ram/mother board and told them if they can get it to boot id keep it otherwise id like my money back

    they guy took over an hr but he found out that the board even though it says ddr3 1333 it only runs on 1600, and said i can flash my bios and upgrade it to use the other ram, but whats the point if i hvae to buy the 1600 to get it to boot to do that, so i returned the 1300 rams and kept 1600 and it runs fine now

    thank you everyone for help
  9. Ok so tell me if I have this right.

    The Sector 5 2x 4GB sticks say on the label they are 1333 RAM, but the tech told you that these Sector 5 2x 4GB are actually 1600 sticks that will only work at 1600 and not at all at 1333?

    He also said you would have to update the BIOS to allow these to actually work at 1333?

    Then you returned the Sector 5 2x 4GB 1333 and got ... something else... and now it works?
  10. yes sort of, they didnt have any of the sector 1600 so he used hyper kingston x or something, and ya we tried many brands of the 1333 but wouldnt work it would only take 1600, but i can update the bios to accept the 13 like it said it should, but why bother if it runs great on the 1600 im not going backwards
  11. it isn't that. I have just never heard of a bios update being required to run a worse sort of RAM before.
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