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Testing PSU - appears DOA

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January 2, 2012 4:50:12 PM

Okay I haven't built a full system in several years but I have built more than a half dozen before that so I have some idea of how to go about it. However I ran into a problem on the build I'm working on now and need some advise.

I'm building a high end video editing system and can't afford all the parts at once. I now have the case, psu, motherboard and some odds and ends. No CPU, RAM or video card yet. I decided to run all of the cords for the front of the box to the motherboard (front controls, BD-R & Media Reader) as well as all of the power cables (to the MB, fans and front panel items). Having done all that I wanted to see which way the various fans blow to set some fans on the top of the case and figured I could probably power it up knowing it wouldn't post due to the lack of cpu, RAM & video card, but when I did I got nothing; no sounds, not lights, absolutely nothing. This motherboard has a on board power button so I tried that and again nothing.

Do I have a bad power supply or is it just impossible to power up without the key components on the board?

Here's what I have so far;
ASRock X79 Extreme9 board
Cooller Master 800w SilentPro 80PlusGold PSU
Corsair Carbide Series 500R case
LG Blue-ray burner
Rosewill Media reader

I attached the 20+4 and the 12V 4+4 to the board,
front panel controls, USB 3 headers and power to the additional fans and the BD-R.

I plan to install a GTX 470 video card (bang for the buck, possibly used)
i7 3930K CPU
32GB of RAM (4GBx8 Mushkin Redline 993999)
Seagate Momentum XT750 Hybrid drives (x2 - RAID0)
Hitachi 1TB 7200rpm HDD (x4 RAID0)
Corsair H100 Waqter Cooling
Win7 Pro x64

Just trying to figure out if I need to RMA the PSU or wait until I have the CPU, RAM and Video card which may not be until March due to cost.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks.
a c 78 B Homebuilt system
January 2, 2012 4:53:24 PM

Even if you plug the PSU twice into the motherboard and put a flat screwdriver over the two pins labeled PWR_BTN in the manual, the call is going to go down the processor power cord to.... nothing.... so that ... nothing... can tell all the other parts to turn themselves on.

Try it again when you get the CPU and the RAM.

- Edit - Incidentally, if you get those parts and you unplug the processor power cord (the little one next to the CPU) you will end up with the exact same situation as I just described above. If the CPU is not plugged in, then the power will go down the CPU power cord to ... nothing... and ... nothing... will tell the other components to turn themselves on.
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a b B Homebuilt system
January 3, 2012 9:44:53 AM

Proshooter said:


Do I have a bad power supply or is it just impossible to power up without the key components on the board?

I attached the 20+4 and the 12V 4+4 to the board,


Just trying to figure out if I need to RMA the PSU or wait until I have the CPU, RAM and Video card which may not be until March due to cost.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks.

Nothings going to happen without a CPU in the socket.

If you want to test a few things remove the 20+4 and 4+4 from the board

Many fans can be plugged into a 4 pinn HDD connector ( the one everbody refers to as a Molex connector ), those that can't usually have an adapter.
The H100 comes with such adapters, ( It's not real watercooling but I'm always more comfortable leak testing them outside of the case first )
You can power up drives without causing damage, don't know how much that's going to tell you.

This guide will show you how to jumpstart the psu
http://www.seasonicusa.com/RMABeta/JumpStart/JS.pdf
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a c 122 B Homebuilt system
January 4, 2012 4:37:06 AM

And you can use a multimeter to check the various outputs.

Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire (standby power supply): 5 volts always on. The green wire should also have 5 volts on it. It should go to 0 volts when you press the case power button (this is also a good way to test the power switch and the associated wiring), then back to 5 volts when you release the case power switch. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

Keep in mind that this is a "no load" check, but if it cannot do this, the PSU is defective.

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