1st Build - Budget Gaming PC - $500 - $600 - Compatibility test!

Approximate Purchase Date: Before the end of January (Most likely)

Budget Range: $500 - $600 (same with rebates)

System Usage from Most to Least Important: email, web surfing, watching movies, gaming, digital art (2D / basic 3D modeling)

Parts Not Required: Mouse, Keyboard, Monitor, Hard Drive (Western Digital 320gb SATA Drive), Disk Drive (Old Compaq Presario disk drive), OS

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: /

Country: U.S

Parts Preferences: N/A

Overclocking: Maybe

SLI or Crossfire: Yes

Monitor Resolution: 1600x900, maybe upgrading to 1920x1080

Additional Comments: Quiet, stable, fast. Honestly, I already have I list of parts, I just need to know if they're compatible. Any additional thoughts or comments are encouraged. I'm also wondering if this build will be able to run most games I want to play on high graphics well. Stuff like Skyrim, Starcraft 2, and WoW. There's more, but those are some of the games that represent what I'm going to be playing. I'm not planning on doing any intensive video editing / rendering.


Motherboard - ASRock M3A770DE AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard

Video Card - HIS H677FN1GD Radeon HD 6770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity

RAM - GeIL Value PLUS 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model GVP34GB1600C9DC

CPU - AMD Phenom II X4 955 Deneb 3.2GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Desktop Processor HDX955FBK4DGM - OEM

*CPU fan* - ARCTIC COOLING ACALP64 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler

Case and Power Supply - COOLER MASTER GX Series RS650-ACAAE3-US 650W ATX12V v2.31 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply


18 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about build budget gaming compatibility test
  1. Looks OK, I think you can do better though, check out my $600 build here and you should be good for awhile.

    I'd perhaps wait and see how the 7xxx cards turn out price-wise, if its the same price I'd go for the 7xxx since they will use 28nm.
  2. Thanks for the reply! Alright, how can it be better? Thanks for the link. If possible I'm trying to actually stay away from $600. I know I said $500 - $600, but really the closer to $500 it is, the better.
  3. Oh ok, well in the $600 build I have it's only about 560-ish since you don't need a hard drive.

    It's better because you'll have a better GPU by far, a better cpu by far and 8gb of ram (not that you'll need it).

    i5 2400 vs 955
    6870 vs 5770

    Reason why I use 5770 is because the 6770 is just a rebrand of the 5770 and the site didn't test the cards that were rebranded.
  4. Ah ok. I see now. Thanks. I see that you put down a micro atx motherboard. Why is that?
  5. Well, Micro-ATX tends to be cheaper. But also because it's a rather cheap board that gives you all the things you'll need to start off plus you'll get USB 3.0 and SATA 3.0, if you want an ATX, the cheapest board that'll leave an upgrade path but is fairly cheap I'd say are these.
    Gigabyte Z68A-D3H-B3
    Asrock Extreme3 Gen3 Z68 (when back in stock)
  6. Okay. Hmm. Alright. So basically..
    Intel i5 quad core > AMD Phenom II quad core - Since its more expensive is it worth it?
    Micro ATX with same features as ATX = ATX - Going with mATX is cheaper with the same gain?
    8 gigs of RAM > 4gigs of RAM - Worth the extra?
    How much better are the video cards that you suggested than the one I had chosen?
    If I go with an mATX motherboard, will the case and power supply be cheaper than if I were to get a ATX?
    How can I edit my built to get better results for the same amount of money I was going to spend on it in the first place? If it is going to cost more than it originally did, will it really be worth it to spend anywhere from $20-$70 more?
    Oh, and as far as prices go, what it normally better? Newegg? or Amazon? Or is it worth it to go buy all the parts at random places for cheaper?
  7. Best answer
    Well... The GPU is defiantly worth it, I just showed you benchmarks.

    The CPU I'd say is worth it as well, though it's not usually the CPU that depends on the FPS gains, the Sandy Bridge chips seem to get more FPS in games than the AMD chips.

    You can drop to 4GB if you want, it's only a few more that's why I suggest it.

    Motherboard is not related to the power supply. Though it does consume power.

    I'd say yes, going with $20-$70 more will make it last MUCH longer.

    Newegg is generally a good place to go. Though Amazon is a nice alternate.
  8. Alright cool. I agree. But will I still get the same compatibility I'm looking for with a mATX?
  9. Yes. Well... If you're looking to run Crossfire, then I'd suggest going to ATX, in which case you'd need to spend a little more, like the boards I suggested. OR you can go with this.
    Cheaper alternate, not a huge lot cheaper.
  10. Oh ok. Do mATX's not run Crossfire or something?
  11. No they do, but size is rather small, and also usually only at 16x/4x. Although it's not THAT bad, if 8x/8x is a few bucks more why not go 8x/8x.
  12. 16x/4x and 8x/8x are video card sizes right?
  13. No. 16x/4x and 8x/8x are the speeds at which the 2 cards with run at if you ever want to run dual card.
  14. Ah okay. I'm guessing 8x/8x is better than 16x/4x? Whats the best speed you can achieve?
  15. Yes, 16x/16x is the best you can achieve but 8x/8x is pretty close, 16x/4x is the slowest. I think you should probably read the guides THG has on the forums, to read about the basics.

    Just one to start off
    There's alot sticked all over the forums.
  16. Okay! Thanks a bunch. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out =) .
  17. Best answer selected by zaneb.
  18. No problem! Good luck!
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