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Problems with Digital Rebel XT Low Light Photography!

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Hi All,
I recently got my digital rebel XT and am running into few issues here.

Equipment Used : Digital Rebel XT, 18-55 Kit Lens, Built-in Flash
When I take low light photos in events, like a speaker speaking on
stage or some dance event on stage. There might be few flouroscent
lights in the auditoium or few stage lights on the stage.
1. What Kind of camera setting is suited for taking pictures here?
2. I do not want the foreground only exposore also want the background
to be exposed, how to achieve that?
3. Should I use first curtain sync or second curtain sync?
4. How to determine the right ISO speed?
Right now I have the following settings.
1. Max Aperture 3.5 or 5.6 depending on ZOOM, but my depth of field
suffers.
2. Second curtain sync - trying to expose background too but the image
is shaky as the camera freezes movement after a while
3. Soft pictures
4. Focus is missing

:(

I know its mostly got to do with my photography skills than the camera
problems, would aprpeciate if anyone can share some tips on how to
manage this situation. I plan to get a 50 mm 1.8 Lens & a sunpak 383
flash but its gonna take little time.
Thanks in advance,
Sudhindra

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

"Bhargav" <sbhargav21@gmail.com> writes:
> Equipment Used : Digital Rebel XT, 18-55 Kit Lens, Built-in Flash
> When I take low light photos in events, like a speaker speaking on
> stage or some dance event on stage. There might be few flouroscent
> lights in the auditoium or few stage lights on the stage.
> 1. What Kind of camera setting is suited for taking pictures here?

Automatic, given your state of photo knowledge. These cameras do most
everything you need without your needing to mess with settings.

> 2. I do not want the foreground only exposore also want the background
> to be exposed, how to achieve that?

You need either multiple flashes or no flash at all. To shoot with no
flash you need a wide lens aperture. That means that either the
foreground or background will be in focus, not both.

> 3. Should I use first curtain sync or second curtain sync?

First, but you may not be allowed to use flash at all, especially for
dance events.

> 4. How to determine the right ISO speed?

I think the Rebel XT can set it automatically. Otherwise set it high.

> I know its mostly got to do with my photography skills than the camera
> problems, would aprpeciate if anyone can share some tips on how to
> manage this situation. I plan to get a 50 mm 1.8 Lens & a sunpak 383
> flash but its gonna take little time.

Those will help.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Thanks, but I do not want to use the camera's automatic setting .. This
is a chance for me to explore & improve my skills so I want to do it
manually..
I need tips for that..

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

"Bhargav" <sbhargav21@gmail.com> writes:
> Thanks, but I do not want to use the camera's automatic setting .. This
> is a chance for me to explore & improve my skills so I want to do it
> manually..
> I need tips for that..

Get the 50/1.8 lens and leave the zoom at home. Don't use the
on-camera flash. If you use an external flash, bounce the light off
the white ceiling (if available) or get a bounce gizmo (Lumiquest
Pocket Bouncer etc). Set camera on aperture priority to control DOF.
If shooting without flash, shoot wide open. Buy a basic photography
book for more.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

The single most useful 'camera setting' for those situations would be a
tripod.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

I would really be tempted to use the Night-time portrait mode.
(and try locking the flash off aswell).
I have had pleasant success with this automatic mode and it brings out the
natural colours far better than the standard automatic mode does.

If you really want to do it yourself try shooting one shot with the
Night-time portrait mode and looking at the settings it chooses. Then
switch to M mode and try using the same settings.

Thuis will give you a benchmark to strive for and hopefully exceed over time
but if your images don't work out at-least you should have one passable
photo.

Hope that helps,

John


"Bhargav" <sbhargav21@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115644124.388583.291300@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> Thanks, but I do not want to use the camera's automatic setting .. This
> is a chance for me to explore & improve my skills so I want to do it
> manually..
> I need tips for that..
>

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

In article <1115639764.134650.299820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
"Bhargav" <sbhargav21@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
> I recently got my digital rebel XT and am running into few issues here.
>
> Equipment Used : Digital Rebel XT, 18-55 Kit Lens, Built-in Flash
> When I take low light photos in events, like a speaker speaking on
> stage or some dance event on stage. There might be few flouroscent
> lights in the auditoium or few stage lights on the stage.
> 1. What Kind of camera setting is suited for taking pictures here?
> 2. I do not want the foreground only exposore also want the background
> to be exposed, how to achieve that?
> 3. Should I use first curtain sync or second curtain sync?
> 4. How to determine the right ISO speed?
> Right now I have the following settings.
> 1. Max Aperture 3.5 or 5.6 depending on ZOOM, but my depth of field
> suffers.
> 2. Second curtain sync - trying to expose background too but the image
> is shaky as the camera freezes movement after a while
> 3. Soft pictures
> 4. Focus is missing
>
> :(
>
> I know its mostly got to do with my photography skills than the camera
> problems, would aprpeciate if anyone can share some tips on how to
> manage this situation. I plan to get a 50 mm 1.8 Lens & a sunpak 383
> flash but its gonna take little time.
> Thanks in advance,
> Sudhindra

Crank up the ISO until the exposure time is reasonable. Having noise at
ISO 1600 is much better than having motion blur at ISO 200.

The fully automatic setting doesn't take advantage of ambient light.
Set the exposure manually to the widest aperture and longest exposure
time that gets you a clean picture. A tripod will really help here.
The flash will add what's missing. This will also protect you somewhat
from getting a bad light reading on flickering fluorescent lamps.

Finally, dump the 18-55mm kit lens. Its sloppy focus and mediocre
optics will never be sharp at f/3.5. A prime lens would be best for
photographing a stage. You'll get a large aperture and razor sharp
optics for little money. If you must have a zoom, get one with IS.

As for depth of field, very shallow can be a good thing. You can stop
worrying about small distractions in the background. The Rebel XT in AI
SERVO focusing mode and having an USM autofocus lens can track moving
people.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

In article <mcmurtri-AEC29C.22343909052005@corp-radius.supernews.com>,
Kevin McMurtrie <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote:

> In article <1115639764.134650.299820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
> "Bhargav" <sbhargav21@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> > I recently got my digital rebel XT and am running into few issues here.
> >
> > Equipment Used : Digital Rebel XT, 18-55 Kit Lens, Built-in Flash
> > When I take low light photos in events, like a speaker speaking on
> > stage or some dance event on stage. There might be few flouroscent
> > lights in the auditoium or few stage lights on the stage.
> > 1. What Kind of camera setting is suited for taking pictures here?
> > 2. I do not want the foreground only exposore also want the background
> > to be exposed, how to achieve that?
> > 3. Should I use first curtain sync or second curtain sync?
> > 4. How to determine the right ISO speed?
> > Right now I have the following settings.
> > 1. Max Aperture 3.5 or 5.6 depending on ZOOM, but my depth of field
> > suffers.
> > 2. Second curtain sync - trying to expose background too but the image
> > is shaky as the camera freezes movement after a while
> > 3. Soft pictures
> > 4. Focus is missing
> >
> > :(
> >
> > I know its mostly got to do with my photography skills than the camera
> > problems, would aprpeciate if anyone can share some tips on how to
> > manage this situation. I plan to get a 50 mm 1.8 Lens & a sunpak 383
> > flash but its gonna take little time.
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Sudhindra
>
> Crank up the ISO until the exposure time is reasonable. Having noise at
> ISO 1600 is much better than having motion blur at ISO 200.

Then plunk the bucks for Noise Ninja, create a custom profile for your
Canon at 1600, and get the best 1600s you can get.

I do this at 3200 for indoor volleyball with my hacked 300D. I'm very
pleased with the results.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

<snip>

> Then plunk the bucks for Noise Ninja

</snip>

How much is Noise Ninja?

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

I dunno, but you can get the basic version of NeatImage for free (it does
the same thing).

--
Message posted via http://www.photokb.com

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

In article <4280bb01$1_1@glkas0286.greenlnk.net>, John Ortt
<JohnOrtt@Idontwantspamsonoreturnaddress.com> wrote:

> <snip>
>
> > Then plunk the bucks for Noise Ninja
>
> </snip>
>
> How much is Noise Ninja?

Home use... $45 for both a stand alone version and a Photoshop plug-in
version.

http://www.picturecode.com/

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

John Ortt wrote:
> I would really be tempted to use the Night-time portrait mode.

This would have motion blur if the foreground people is moving, and
lighted by stage light.

Reply to Anonymous
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