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Is my MOBO the problem?

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March 6, 2013 8:06:01 PM

Hello everyone, recently I just put together my first ever build.

SPECS:
Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core

ASRock Z77 Pro4 ATX LGA1155

Kingston HyperX Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333

Seagate Barracuda 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM

Sapphire Radeon HD 7750 1GB

Thermaltake 600W ATX12V

when I first built it I had some problems, it would power on for five seconds & then turn off and repeat but after reseating memory it worked fine. Everything went good for a week or two until I decided to install a new Heatsink the Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus and after installing it everything went straight to hell. I got no signal on monitor with both my video card & on board graphics. My CPU fan 1 header wasn't working and the only way the heatsink fan would spin is if I put it in another 4 pin Main_fan AND then I noticed my Video card fan was not spinning but I tested my video card in another computer and it works fine. So right now I am either thinking it is the motherboard or CPU, I tried to put the stock cooler back in and I still got the same problem. Has anyone ever heard of these symptoms? because I am totally lost. I am waiting on my new motherboard to get here and I hope that is the problem but if not I guess I will take it to a professional.

More about : mobo problem

a c 559 V Motherboard
March 7, 2013 5:03:18 AM

Hi,
Hard to say what happened. Try reseating the CPU and checking the CPU socket for bent pins. Is there a CPU heatsink backplate that might short the board?
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a b V Motherboard
March 7, 2013 12:11:48 PM

I'm not sure but it could be the way you have tha cables od the PSU connected. You have to have the 8-pin motherboard connecor connected, i'm sure you have done that. The PSU is a little bit on the low side but is just adequate.

The CPU is supported by the motherboard
http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?cat=Specification... Pro4

However, it might be that you have not applied a thin film of thermal paste or that you ave applied a thick film of thermal paste meaning that no thermal paste will create high temps as will too much thermal pastes as it acts like an insulator preventing the dissipation of heat from the CPU to the heatsink.

Check the BIOS PC Health for your temps, if they surge above 85C then that is your solution (or problem).

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March 7, 2013 12:23:09 PM

what brand of thermaltake is it?...dont say tr2
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March 9, 2013 2:58:09 AM

It is the TR2 600 watt. I do think there was some bent pins on the motherboard CPU socket. Like 3 or 4 could of happened while installing the new heatsink but not sure how, I also didn't have the standoffs installed for the whole week or two that I actually used the computer but I installed them after I put the cooler master on and it still did not fix the problem. The Cooler master has a heat sink back plate also but I don't know why that would cause it to short out. I can't check temps on my cpu because I can't even get the computer to POST. I just don't see why it would work fine for 2 weeks and then after installing a new Heatsink it doesn't work at all & it causes the video card and CPU fan header to stop working.
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a b V Motherboard
March 9, 2013 3:10:34 AM

corpsecollins said:
I do think there was some bent pins on the motherboard CPU socket. Like 3 or 4 could of happened while installing the new heatsink but not sure how, I also didn't have the standoffs installed for the whole week or two that I actually used the computer but I installed them after I put the cooler master on and it still did not fix the problem.

Uhh... That's two strikes the board is likely toast.
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March 9, 2013 3:22:48 AM

smeezekitty said:
Uhh... That's two strikes the board is likely toast.



I hope it is the mother board, I don't want to have to replace any other parts lol this is my first build so I am not mad at myself for making those mistakes. When I get my replacement I will know to have the standoffs and to install the heatsink before I put my motherboard in the case.
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March 9, 2013 3:30:12 AM

I will update once my new Motherboard comes in so if it is the problem & anyone else is having this trouble, they will have an answer.
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March 9, 2013 7:26:35 AM

I have another question, if my motherboard did fry. Then why would the CPU_FAN 1 header not work and make the heatsink fan spin but the MAIN_FAN 4 pin header make it spin? wouldn't that indicate the motherboard still works even though it wasn't making my video card fan spin, the cpu 4 pin header didnt work and no signal to monitor?
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a b V Motherboard
March 9, 2013 3:59:28 PM

Just because one fan header works certainly does not mean the board is good.
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March 9, 2013 7:06:04 PM

smeezekitty said:
Just because one fan header works certainly does not mean the board is good.



Good! that gives me even more hope that is is the motherboard, I am praying it is not my CPU. Don't after hearing some answers I have faith it is the MOBO.
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a b V Motherboard
March 9, 2013 7:11:36 PM

Of course it is impossible to guarantee it. But I have had more dead motherboards then any other component.

And these symptoms are most like mobo related. Good luck and hope you get it sorted.
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March 15, 2013 10:47:58 PM

After getting my new motherboard and installing it correctly it still doesn't work. It won't even power on now. It acts like no power is getting to the motherboard, the PSU has been tested and is fine I took it to a pc shop and even they could not figure out the problem. Not sure what to even do now, any suggestions?
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a b V Motherboard
March 15, 2013 11:14:22 PM

I assume the standoffs are installed. Make sure both the 20 pin ATX connector is in and the 4 pin CPU connector is in. You can try shorting the power on switch contacts with a screwdriver (carefully) to debug a case button problem.

Even with no CPU or a dead CPU the board should power up.

Otherwise the PSU is still suspect despite being tested.
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March 15, 2013 11:25:51 PM

smeezekitty said:
I assume the standoffs are installed. Make sure both the 20 pin ATX connector is in and the 4 pin CPU connector is in. You can try shorting the power on switch contacts with a screwdriver (carefully) to debug a case button problem.

Even with no CPU or a dead CPU the board should power up.

Otherwise the PSU is still suspect despite being tested.


Might try a new PSU but idk honestly I think something small and unprovable is making it not even power on. I am just looking over it, I'll post results ASAP if I get any.
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a b V Motherboard
March 16, 2013 1:05:02 AM

It's not the motherboard that is at fault.

The TR2 600 watt PSU does not come with an 8-pin motherboard connector , you have to have one otherwise there is a power shortfall using only a 4-pin connector.
http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=Z77%20Pro4&...

The PSU is 43 amps on the 12 v rail,(combined) better to get one that has 48 amps. Make ausre it has the proper cable connectors and that you connect them.
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March 16, 2013 1:09:23 AM

TenPc said:
It's not the motherboard that is at fault.

The TR2 600 watt PSU does not come with an 8-pin motherboard connector , you have to have one otherwise there is a power shortfall using only a 4-pin connector.
http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=Z77%20Pro4&...

The PSU is 43 amps on the 12 v rail,(combined) better to get one that has 48 amps. Make ausre it has the proper cable connectors and that you connect them.


It does have a 8 pin connector or you can make it a 4 pin. I have it and the 24 pin plugged into the motherboard.
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a b V Motherboard
March 16, 2013 1:30:13 AM

You need to connect the 8-pin to provide adequate power for all the hardware. The 4-pin could be used but only if you use onboard gpu, your PSU is not overpowered, you have no internal fans, and the CPU cooler is standard, and your ramis not more than 2gb. You can't overclock anything, also. It's a big risk, best to get what you need toprovide proper power resources.


Your PSU has a 8-pin PCIe connector!
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...

Unless the one in the tiger direct link is different to your model.
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March 16, 2013 1:40:34 AM

What PSU do you recommend for my build? I will try a new one.
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March 16, 2013 1:42:07 AM

TenPc said:
Okay, I think I've found your model -
http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_000...

It has the 4+4 connector, perhaps it is back to front?

Sooo, we can rule that out! Sorry :( 

Check the PC health temps and voltages (in Bios).
hah yea I was pretty sure it had a 8 pin but I can't check temps or voltage because system won't even power on after getting a new motherboard

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a b V Motherboard
March 16, 2013 2:02:18 AM

The ThermalTake PSU, te god one, is adequate for your rig, so I'd rule that out as the cause of the problem.

You stated earlier that the CPU fan did not work on the CPU_Fan_1 connector, is your fan a proper pin connection, you can't jam a 3 pin connector onto a 4-pin connection. What is the voltage amp of the fan of the cpu? You might need a slightly higher amp for example, the fan might be 12v 0.6amp, you'd need 12v 0.85 amp.
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March 16, 2013 8:13:02 AM

TenPc said:
The ThermalTake PSU, te god one, is adequate for your rig, so I'd rule that out as the cause of the problem.

You stated earlier that the CPU fan did not work on the CPU_Fan_1 connector, is your fan a proper pin connection, you can't jam a 3 pin connector onto a 4-pin connection. What is the voltage amp of the fan of the cpu? You might need a slightly higher amp for example, the fan might be 12v 0.6amp, you'd need 12v 0.85 amp.

It is a 4 pin and I have it plugged in correctly it worked fine until I put on the cooler master 212 and now the CPU fan only work on another 4 pin fan called MAIN_Fan. I'm not sure about voltages though. I don't know anything when it comes to those.
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March 16, 2013 8:20:55 AM

whats happening is theres ether no thermal paist on the cpu or to much on there your system is over heating. this is a quick fix just remover the heat sink wipe off old paist (if there is any) and apply again Remember thermal paist is only to fill in inperfections on the cpu face its not even a good thing that its there only apply a tiny amount spead it across with your finger and replace heatsink.
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a b V Motherboard
March 16, 2013 8:46:43 AM

The volt/amp is written on top of the fan, on a round label. If you got any other fans, it is clearly marked. I've checked the website, it's not marked.
http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6603

It seems that CPU fan manufacturers are for-going the v/a of their fans for a more quieter model however, they are forgetting that a higher rev fan gives better dissipations of the heat. I had to go to a review site to get the specs.
12V, 0.37A
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=220...

The pins for the CPU fan are not really clearly marked, you won't know the fan speed of the CPUP fan unless you can see it in the Bios PC health, and then, only if you got it connected to the proper pin connector.

There is a 3-pin connector to the right-side of the board (near CPU), I wuld have though that would be the CPU fan connector.
http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=Z77%20Pro4&...

I think the problem is the Cooler Master, because your other cooler fan worked prior to that one.
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a b V Motherboard
March 16, 2013 10:09:21 AM

Remove RAM and all devices such a hd and cdrom drive. Test for startup.

If it still fails remove casefans and CPU. Test for startup (PSU fan and power LED should still come on)

You should still try another PSU. Wouldn't hurt.
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March 16, 2013 2:04:23 PM

reggie2014 said:
whats happening is theres ether no thermal paist on the cpu or to much on there your system is over heating. this is a quick fix just remover the heat sink wipe off old paist (if there is any) and apply again Remember thermal paist is only to fill in inperfections on the cpu face its not even a good thing that its there only apply a tiny amount spead it across with your finger and replace heatsink.


It isn't thermal paste, I have applied an re applied about 4 times. Makes no difference.
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March 16, 2013 2:05:44 PM

TenPc said:
The volt/amp is written on top of the fan, on a round label. If you got any other fans, it is clearly marked. I've checked the website, it's not marked.
http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6603

It seems that CPU fan manufacturers are for-going the v/a of their fans for a more quieter model however, they are forgetting that a higher rev fan gives better dissipations of the heat. I had to go to a review site to get the specs.
12V, 0.37A
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=220...

The pins for the CPU fan are not really clearly marked, you won't know the fan speed of the CPUP fan unless you can see it in the Bios PC health, and then, only if you got it connected to the proper pin connector.

There is a 3-pin connector to the right-side of the board (near CPU), I wuld have though that would be the CPU fan connector.
http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=Z77%20Pro4&...

I think the problem is the Cooler Master, because your other cooler fan worked prior to that one.


That is the CPU_Fan 2 connector but there is a 4 pin CPU_fan 1 idk why it isn't the cooler master because I tried re installing the stock fan and still had the same problem.

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a b V Motherboard
March 16, 2013 2:29:50 PM

Why did you change the CPU cooler, you said in your first post allw as well until yu changed it

Also, check that the Cooler Master is not sitting on anything else like a capacitor or something, it might actually not be seated on the cpu, there might be some space. If the CPU is not completely covered by the heatsink, the cpu might be getting real hot real quick.

Time to get back to basics, remove cables from your hdd, cd.\/dvd and then see if all powers up. If it works then try the hdd cable but not the cd/dvd. If it boots then the cause is the PSU is not providing adequatre power for some reason and you will need to get a new one and better to get a higher watt total output with 48amps on the combined 12 v rail.
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March 16, 2013 2:58:59 PM

i just want to double check that you have reset the cmos ,tenpc is right time to pull it down a breadboard it outside the case ,i think you may have problem conserning the power supply (possible fan break down issue inside the psu )
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March 17, 2013 6:35:53 PM

TenPc said:
Why did you change the CPU cooler, you said in your first post allw as well until yu changed it

Also, check that the Cooler Master is not sitting on anything else like a capacitor or something, it might actually not be seated on the cpu, there might be some space. If the CPU is not completely covered by the heatsink, the cpu might be getting real hot real quick.

Time to get back to basics, remove cables from your hdd, cd.\/dvd and then see if all powers up. If it works then try the hdd cable but not the cd/dvd. If it boots then the cause is the PSU is not providing adequatre power for some reason and you will need to get a new one and better to get a higher watt total output with 48amps on the combined 12 v rail.


reggie2014 said:
i just want to double check that you have reset the cmos ,tenpc is right time to pull it down a breadboard it outside the case ,i think you may have problem conserning the power supply (possible fan break down issue inside the psu )


OKAY, yes I reset the cmos didn't fix it so I decided to bread board. I had nothing but the Power supply plugged into the motherboard and I still did not get any power, shouldn't the fan still spin? my mobo doesn't have a power light on it so idk if that is the problem or the motherboard. But considering the motherboard is new I feel like it MAY be the power supply even though I checked the voltage and it was all in the green.
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March 17, 2013 10:01:40 PM

I tested the power supply in another computer and it worked fine. I am honestly out of answered, maybe the replacement motherboard was DOA? I am honestly considering just getting a different motherboard brand.
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March 17, 2013 11:04:26 PM

i would try another psu in that mainboard before anything eles just in case it agree's with the board you tested it on but not the one you want it to run on this problem screams powersupply try to get your hands on another one to test with ,i have also had a similer problem once myself and it was the powersupply
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March 17, 2013 11:08:54 PM

the likely hood of a motherboard just packing up and going home is extremely unlikly and out of hundreds of builds ive only ever seen it once or twice wich is why im almost positive its not the main board especialy since it was working to begin with
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a b V Motherboard
March 17, 2013 11:37:42 PM

reggie2014 said:
the likely hood of a motherboard just packing up and going home is extremely unlikly and out of hundreds of builds ive only ever seen it once or twice wich is why im almost positive its not the main board especialy since it was working to begin with

Strangely enough, I have had more dead motherboards then any other component by far.
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March 17, 2013 11:55:53 PM

when i said hundreds of builds i wasnt kidding ive put together almost 1000 pc's and if uve had more motherboards fail than psu's your most defenetly doing it wrong
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March 18, 2013 12:14:18 AM

yes if its not powering up whatsoever like you say with no even board light it will more than likly 90 percent sure its the power supply,if it dose for some freak reason turn out to be the board i would highly suggest going with an asus board to try to avoid any future problems i dont mind gigabyte boards they can be pretty decent but if you can afford alittle extra it would be advisable to try to go with asus this comes from alot of trial and error Asus cost alittle more but the quality exceeds anyother boards i have used
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a b V Motherboard
March 18, 2013 12:38:54 AM

corpsecollins said:
I don't know, I will try a new power supply before returning the board for a new one and I will be going with this board
http://www.outletpc.com/drp818313015211.html?utm_source...

So are Power supply and Motherboards the ONLY cause of no powering on at all?


Well, umm no, because you also have your power point to consider and whether you hav e faulty power point (or one that is not providing correct AC power to the PSU).

Try a different power point.
If you have a spare power cord, power point to the PSU, try it. I had a similar problem to you at one time and everything I tried nothing resolved the issue. The PC power cord looked rather thin compared to some others so I changed it and now everthing worked. Some of those power cords are for monitors and not PC's even though they may have identical ends and ratings, the cable is thinner for a monitor.

Worth a shot.
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March 18, 2013 12:47:49 AM

TenPc said:
corpsecollins said:
I don't know, I will try a new power supply before returning the board for a new one and I will be going with this board
http://www.outletpc.com/drp818313015211.html?utm_source...

So are Power supply and Motherboards the ONLY cause of no powering on at all?


Well, umm no, because you also have your power point to consider and whether you hav e faulty power point (or one that is not providing correct AC power to the PSU).

Try a different power point.
If you have a spare power cord, power point to the PSU, try it. I had a similar problem to you at one time and everything I tried nothing resolved the issue. The PC power cord looked rather thin compared to some others so I changed it and now everthing worked. Some of those power cords are for monitors and not PC's even though they may have identical ends and ratings, the cable is thinner for a monitor.

Worth a shot.


its actully funny you mention that, a guy about a month ago brought me a computer i plugged it in and it ran fine i asked him if the adapter had gone and if he checked it in another power point and turns out the adapter he was useing had a trip switch button he had to press.
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March 18, 2013 12:56:21 AM

I have tried 2 or 3 different power cords. Did not fix the problem.
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a b V Motherboard
March 18, 2013 1:20:24 AM

corpsecollins said:
I have tried 2 or 3 different power cords. Did not fix the problem.


Doh!

Well, how about a dfferent power board especially if you got other appliances runing on the same power board (or switch them off).

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March 18, 2013 1:26:53 AM

TenPc said:
corpsecollins said:
I have tried 2 or 3 different power cords. Did not fix the problem.


Doh!

Well, how about a dfferent power board especially if you got other appliances runing on the same power board (or switch them off).

tried that also ):

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a b V Motherboard
March 18, 2013 1:27:26 AM

Going back to the original details in first post, I think that your motherboard has a short somewhere and you need to RMA it, if it is still in warranty.

When you first powered on, the ram wasn't seated properly or might have been , the slots might have been tight fitting and a reseat fixed that. Even so, I think that there is something amiss with this motherboard (ghost in the machine) otherwise, try a different cpu fan heatsink fan thingy.
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March 18, 2013 1:45:59 AM

im sticking with my original diagnosys not looking at it myself and having it on my test bench i can only say my moneys on the psu being faulty,sorry i couldnt help further ,please update me when you have figred out the problem. thanks
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March 22, 2013 12:33:18 PM

OKAY I HAVE POWER after getting another replacement motherboard BUT NOW it powers up and I get no signal from monitor. After a few seconds it over heats and shuts off....
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March 22, 2013 12:48:40 PM

I FIXED THE OVER HEATING but now I am getting no display still.
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a b V Motherboard
March 22, 2013 1:17:52 PM

The default setting would be onboard video out, you need to change it to the video card, probably called peg1.

edit - The psu might not be quite adequate, you might need about 650 watts PSU or higher, up to 750 watts.
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March 22, 2013 2:32:24 PM

TenPc said:
The default setting would be onboard video out, you need to change it to the video card, probably called peg1.

edit - The psu might not be quite adequate, you might need about 650 watts PSU or higher, up to 750 watts.


The power supply powered it all before so I dont think that is the problem and how do i change the settings if i can't see anything on my monitor?
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