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Build it or have best buy build it for me?

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January 12, 2012 1:20:35 AM

My specifications -- getting a mouse (comes with as a bundle), a keyboard, and a monitor 1080p I took out the cooler master 212 evo $50.
MOBO:ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
CPU:Intel Core i5-2400 Sandy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.4GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I52400
RAM:Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model CT2KIT51264BA1339
GPU:Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
PSU:SAPPHIRE 100314-3L Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
HDD:Seagate Barracuda ST500DM002 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
CASE:RAIDMAX Blade ATX-298WW Black / White Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
DVD-RW:ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM

More about : build buy build

January 12, 2012 1:29:38 AM

Best Buy probably isn't going to update your BIOS anyway, which is what can possibly turn the motherboard into a paperweight.

I would just do it myself, but I am not really intimidated by these things after this long.

That being said, it might not be the worst thing in the world. That way if anything doesn't work you can say the Geek Squad guy screwed it up and that Best Buy should have to replace it.

The RAM kinda scares me, but otherwise everything should mostly just slide right in and work right away.
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January 12, 2012 1:35:36 AM

I can't do it myself because My parents most likely wouldn't want me to. I'm not so much as afraid on updating the bios because I don't think I'm going to go black out...Also why does the RAM scare you? just wondering.

P.S. I'll probably get geek-squad / bestbuy to build it and ask them if they can do my bios as well.
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January 12, 2012 1:50:51 AM

Tier 1 RAM, Crucial and Kingston, have rock bottom failure rates (tops out at about 2% for a model)

Tier 2 RAM, Arguably including G.Skill, Corsair, OCZ, and so on have decent to pretty bad failure rates (tops out at about 7% for a model).

Tier 3 RAM, Very high failure rates. No telling where these top out. Sales figures aren't strong enough to get reliable data usually.

My guess is that Team Elite falls into Tier 3. That is why it scares me.

Anyway, the BIOS is really hard to screw up, but if you do screw it up it is probably unsalvageable unless you have a dual BIOS motherboard.

Having an UPS in the wall and a surge protector in the UPS and your PC stuff in the surge protector is a pretty good way to avoid a catastrophic power loss which is 1/3 of the potential failure points, at least.

In this setup, a surge would still probably make it through the UPS into the surge protector and cause the surge protector to shut down to protect what is on the other side. If that was a computer updating the BIOS it would kill the motherboard while trying to save it.

That eventuality isn't stopped by the UPS + Surge Protector plan.

That still leaves the human element as a point of failure, too.

It isn't hard to put one file on a USB drive and then start your computer with the USB drive in, go into the BIOS, and do the update, but if you had the wrong file or something that could be game right there.

If you did it successfully, you would be shocked about how easy the process is.

If you unluckily had some catastrophe happen during it, though, you would be terribly sad too.

Sometimes you just have to roll the dice.

Or you could just sit there with a non-updated BIOS which would likely work too.
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January 12, 2012 1:59:47 AM

if I where to update it myself would you take me step through step process?:D 

and also I'm upgrading the ram I've not edited on my op sorry for the confusion I got a suggestion on G.skill and Corsair; I'll be able to use those right? and also thank you for helping me. And the part about taking the risk with bios Um. well Honestly I'm going to do a summer job it'll take me like 6-8 months to full pay off my system. (sad) lol so if I do manage somehow to unsuccessfully update my BIOS there goes about 1-2 months of work...So if you can see my concern then you would know I really don't feel comfortable doing it myself. Again thank you for helping me this far! :) 
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January 12, 2012 2:05:31 AM

I think it is worth $100 to have them build it, if you are not comfortable with the idea of doing it yourself.
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January 12, 2012 2:47:43 AM

Yeah, I'm glad someone finally talked about it being okay. :D  also I got 2 people saying that Best-Buy will update my bios! hehe they'll build my rig and update my bios lol. Thanks again for the help and everything! :)  @ raddinn can you give me a link to newegg with a new RAM I was looking at some but got a little confused which one I should choose thanks.
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January 12, 2012 3:38:23 AM

Given that one of the hardest tasks is to pick components that will work together, especially the memory and motherboard; I would like to suggest that anyone who CORRECTLY picks out the components to use should then assemble the computer. If you feel that you are competent enough to pick out the components then you should build the computer yourself.
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January 12, 2012 4:03:51 AM

http://tinyurl.com/6uufsf8

The above is a link to a Crucial tool that tells you which RAM is guaranteed to work with that motherboard type (already selected).

You can set the high and low slider bar to 8GB RAM (recommended) and then change the list to display price from lowest to highest and start grabbing part numbers and searching websites like newegg for them.

The one in my signature would work perfectly well.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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January 12, 2012 4:05:49 AM

Well to be honest I had help picking it out and I really I'm a lost sheep with picking. :(  so this is why I'd like a manufacture to build it for me as well as update the bios but that's before us I'd like to know if this Corsair would work -- CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600. Thank you for helping me.

P.S. I have a budget that I don't want to break ($900 give or keep $50) and I found a new case that'll cost $120 so saving cash is a want. :) 
also the reason why I don't want to build it is because it'll take me 6 months to afford 2/3 of the system.
I also read that if It went over 1600 MHz with over clocking it could fry a RAM stick? I don't want over clocking. I really need someone to answer all these questions cause I need to add up all my stuff cause i'm scattered, thank you so much for your guys assitance!
also the guy said it fried because he was on sandy bridge I'm using i5-2400 so I believe i should be fine again if someone could answer all or almost all of these answers that would be amaziing!! thank you all!!
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January 12, 2012 4:19:26 AM

Corsair RAM has failure rates that are the highest out of any major manufacturer. Even if the RAM was compatible with the board, I still wouldn't get it on that basis.

If you want to know if it would work, look up "ASRock Extreme 3 gen 3 QVL" and find it somewhere, probably on ASRock's own website that says all the ram that is tested to work on the board from any maker. You can see if the specific part number of your Corsair Vengance RAM is on the list.

Even if it is on the list, it is still 5x more likely to fail than the one I showed above.

Also, while there may be some good reasons to go north of the $50 or so you would spend on the HAF 912, I don't think I would go for a $120 case for this computer unless it is just a vanity thing. There are plenty of cases ~80 that would work just fine and it would chop off 1/3 of the expense. You do keep mentioning cost after all.

My case is a very good one, for instance (Lian Li PC-K59).
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January 12, 2012 11:54:24 AM

I'm gonna go with the one you choose because I saw to many complaints about it being broken in less then 6 months :\ now on the issue with the case I can't find a atx case that I like I mean I found a really nice $120 case but that's about it I can't find a nice case for $80 except for the recommended $50 case but as you know it's not appealing to me -- can you find a case and suggest it to me? Thank you so much for helping me! :) 
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January 12, 2012 12:25:30 PM

As much as I would love to say "build it yourself", that would be very ill-advised. Just have Best Buy build it for you. (If possible, see if you can watch them build it though)

Cases under $75 that IMO look cool:

]http://www.amazon.com/Guardian-Black-Steel-Chassis-921RB-BL/dp/B004351H9G/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1326378014&sr=8-29 ]

]http://www.amazon.com/Raidmax-Typhoon-Tower-Case-ATX-312WS/dp/B004CCQYMK/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1326378014&sr=8-19]

When it comes to picking a case, it is entirely personal preference. I happen to like the most extravagant cases.
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January 12, 2012 12:31:33 PM

If I were you I would print some of the guides you find here on toms about how to build a PC. Then read through them go on you tube and find videos on how to install a CPU and cooler, how to install a Mobo, how to install a gpu. Put this stuff together in a neat package present it to your parents as a learning opportunity. Life is a lot more fun if you take every opportunity too learn new skills. People these days spend too much time learning in school and not enough time learning on their own. It may be challenging and frustrating for your but I think you will enjoy the process of building the computer and in the end when it works well and costs less than the store option you will have a legitimate sense of pride for a job well done.

The fact that your posting here shows you have the right attitude, and drive to do it yourself, and from reading your comments it looks like you have a better understanding of what needs to be done than 90% of the people in the world.

Now go forth and build.
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January 12, 2012 12:48:46 PM

As much as I agree with bucknutty, a $900 computer is not the place to start.

A good start to learning how to build a computer is to (IMO):

Read guides

Watch youtube videos

Disassemble an old computer and try to rebuild it

Get old, but working used parts and build a junk build.

To me, it is not worth the risk. ^ This is how I started. Believe me, you would feel a lot better if you broke a CPU you paid $20 for compared to a $200 CPU.

So like I said, speak with the Best Buy people and see if you can sit in on the build process. If they let you, they will most likely be happy to share their "knowledge" with you.


EDIT: As I stated before, this is MY opinion. It is good that you want to understand the workings of your computer + save money though. By understanding your comp, you will save money when it comes to upgrading or troubleshooting issues. I agree that you should build your own computers (I personally would never pay Best Buy to build it for me) but I just think you should start small first. If possible pick up a cheap old (working) comp off craigslist, rip it apart, rebuild it, become familiarized with the inner workings, then build your nice comp once the parts come in. :) 
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January 12, 2012 2:49:13 PM

Sardonic is probably right.


When I was 16 I fried a 486 DS that my neighbor gave me. That chip was 25mhz, I tried to put in a 486SX that is 66mhz and it would not work. That was when you had to set the voltages, clocks, and multi with jumpers. So then I put the 486DS back in but forgot to move the voltage jumper. The board and CPU burned out in like a day, and I way sad becuase I could not play quake.
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January 12, 2012 4:56:42 PM

Things are a lot more plug and play these days.

People come in here all the time that are trying to build their first computer and they are a little intimidated by the whole thing and they do pretty fine for the most part.

Sure they for get things that pros never would like neglecting to use standoffs or not plugging in the CPU power cable, but I can't remember pretty much any of them that did something that broke the PC forever. They just take the board back out and put the standoffs in or just plug in the CPU power and they are good, usually.

Everyone gets DOA parts and that can't completely be avoided, but sticking with high quality parts is a good way to limit the risk.

On the one hand it just makes things so much easier if you don't have to worry about it, but most people are fine especially if they watch a few videos beforehand.
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January 12, 2012 5:07:39 PM

Raiddinn said:
Things are a lot more plug and play these days.

People come in here all the time that are trying to build their first computer and they are a little intimidated by the whole thing and they do pretty fine for the most part.

Sure they for get things that pros never would like neglecting to use standoffs or not plugging in the CPU power cable, but I can't remember pretty much any of them that did something that broke the PC forever. They just take the board back out and put the standoffs in or just plug in the CPU power and they are good, usually.

Everyone gets DOA parts and that can't completely be avoided, but sticking with high quality parts is a good way to limit the risk.

On the one hand it just makes things so much easier if you don't have to worry about it, but most people are fine especially if they watch a few videos beforehand.


Don't get me wrong, I agree with you.

Just from a personal stand-point, and knowing what my budget is like, even if i caused one component to break (due to inexperience/mistake/forgetfulness/whatever) I would be pretty bummed. I would be computer less until my funds went back up too (if for some reason the broken part couldn't be RMA'd)

But I do agree, it is a fairly straight forward process. Most things are plug it in and go now. But I even worry when I build a new comp (and I have been ripping PCs apart for a while). So for a brand new person, I'd play it safe.

To reiterate my stance: I think OP should go ahead and build it himself, BUT only after he takes the time to physically work on a PC (even if it is 1 PC and a few hours before he puts together his new one). If he cannot get access to a cheap pc that he can rip apart, then I think it'd be better for him to have Best Buy do it and watch.
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January 12, 2012 5:16:49 PM

Fine, I will concede the point. It would really suck to do something that blew up your PC when you don't have money to buy a new part with.

I kinda live in fear of that too since I have one of the lowest budgets of anyone on TH.

That being said, OP if you are in/around DC then I will oversee the process in person for free.

Otherwise, it might be really nice if you could buy a POS PC off of craigslist for like $50 or something that you can freely destroy in order to get your hands wet before you take on the expensive one.
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January 12, 2012 5:36:33 PM

haha. Yeah the thing is I really don't want to toy around and build a $900 desktop I'd rather do a $200 desktop knowing if I broke something I could afford it in like a month. Sadly I'll not be building it myself:(  . Thank you guys for your help all the way to down here means a lot since I'm making my first PC and I don't want anything wrong with it.
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January 12, 2012 5:40:58 PM

shell shocke said:
haha. Yeah the thing is I really don't want to toy around and build a $900 desktop I'd rather do a $200 desktop knowing if I broke something I could afford it in like a month. Sadly I'll not be building it myself:(  . Thank you guys for your help all the way to down here means a lot since I'm making my first PC and I don't want anything wrong with it.


I think you made the correct choice for this particular situation. But like Raiddinn said, if you can (even after you have you new comp) get a cheap $50 or so PC off craigslist, then you should do it. The knowledge you will gain from be able to get your hands dirty by ripping apart and reassembling a PC is invaluable and will certainly help you in the future with upgrades/troubleshooting.

Don't give up on building your own PC's though!!! Just get a bit more knowledge under your belt first. ;) 
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January 12, 2012 9:14:19 PM

MOBO:ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
CPU:Intel Core i5-2400 Sandy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.4GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I52400
RAM:Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model CT2KIT51264BA1339
GPU:Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
PSU:SAPPHIRE 100314-3L Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
HDD:Seagate Barracuda ST500DM002 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
CASE:RAIDMAX Blade ATX-298WW Black / White Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
DVD-RW:ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 -- is the cooler necessary because I changed my CPU and i'm not over clocking if so please tell me because it's about $50 i can save a lot to me maybe not you but still... Thanks. This cost me $909.31 :)  Couldn't ask for a better design myself if I can get rid of the cooler it turns out that'd be awesome because then i'd have enough cash left over from not buying the cooler to buy a "21-22 inch monitor =)

P.S. I double posted this because I wanted to make sure someone would see it :) ! I hope you guys like the specs. I love the case I wanted a LED case but after a few heart wrenching comments talking about the LED lights running out after 6 months I'm not going to get a case with one as you can see above that's the case I bought $49.99 cheap good looking I love it lol.
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January 13, 2012 12:25:17 PM

The stock coolers are perfectly fine for the i3s and i5s. They now have a built in copper core with a vapor chamber, so they actually work really well. Plus the i5 is an amazingly cool chip when you consider the work it does, compared to older quads. That case has good air flow so that will further help the stock cooler.

Just dont try to over clock more than 10 - 20% on the stock cooler.
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January 13, 2012 2:03:24 PM

bucknutty said:
Small note:
your board can take 1600 mhz ram stock, but you have 1333 ram selected. That will work just fine but you can take advantage of the tiny performance boost of 1600 ram.

This crucial 1600 kit coast 5 bucks more but i think it is worth it.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Or you can go cheap 1600 ram for 35. I have always had good luck with generic ram.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


Just wondering so is the 2nd link you posted a 1600 mhz ram stock? or a cheaper one. I might go with the crucial 1600 kit.
Also are you saying I should leave the COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E? it's $50 and I have a $900 budget I don't think I really need it since my CPU isn't over clocked.
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January 13, 2012 2:17:16 PM

I would not get the fancy cooler if i was on a budget.
Both of the rams I listed are 1600 stock and will work well. I included the crucial only to give you a comparison to the crucial you had listed.
If it were my build I would go with the patriot brand ram.

So we cut out the cooler and got faster ram for 5 bucks less. We just saved $55.
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January 13, 2012 2:51:33 PM

Which link is for the patriot one? Thank you for helping me. :) 
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January 13, 2012 3:36:16 PM

Okay. Thanks. So if i didn't get the cooler master 212 hyper evo would my system like heat up or something? Thanks the cooler is the only thing i'm confused on atm.
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January 13, 2012 4:10:28 PM

The intel chip comes with a perfectly good cooler. The cpu will get to operating temp and stay there. With a decent case the stock cooler will hold the cpu around 40-50 at full load. Maybe alittle higher. The fancy cooler might hold the cpu at 35-45 at full load.

Basically the cpu will be 5-10 degrees cooler on average with the fancy cooler but is as long as the chip is in the safe zone for temp say below 70 it does not matter.

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January 13, 2012 4:52:31 PM

I just wanted to point out that Patriot RAM has higher failure rates than Crucial does. The tradeoff isn't without its drawbacks.

The same thing for the Hyper 212. The stock cooler will keep the heat inside the case where it can negatively affect the longevity of the internals. The Hyper 212 can bow the heat directly out the back of the case by itself rather than pushing the heat every which way but keeping it inside.

There are significant downsides regardless of what choice you end up making. I just want to help you understand that you aren't getting something for nothing by making the recently suggested tradeoffs.

What you gain in your wallet you are losing somewhere else.
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January 13, 2012 5:10:16 PM

One could argue the stock cooler does a better job of cooling the board and power mosfets by blowing and ciculating air onto the board where a tower cooler would not.

Question at stock speeds what would the after market cooler due? Maybe 5 degrees? Maybe 10? What kind of impact does 5 or 10 degress have to the over life of the board? Are we extending the chip and boards life from 10 years to 11?
I dont know if any one has any statistics on this or not?

The way I look at the cooler is that if its good enough for intel to package with all its new chips its good enough for 99% of the population.

As for the ram I do like the crucial 1600mhz balistics, and its only 10 bucks more, but that is 30% of the total cost of the ram. Will you get 30% more performance or longevity? Most likely not.

Any way lots of food for thought here. Ultimatly I don't think the cooler or the ram will have any notable impact in the overall life or functionalty of the final build.
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January 13, 2012 5:27:33 PM

Raiddinn said:
I just wanted to point out that Patriot RAM has higher failure rates than Crucial does. The tradeoff isn't without its drawbacks.

The same thing for the Hyper 212. The stock cooler will keep the heat inside the case where it can negatively affect the longevity of the internals. The Hyper 212 can bow the heat directly out the back of the case by itself rather than pushing the heat every which way but keeping it inside.

There are significant downsides regardless of what choice you end up making. I just want to help you understand that you aren't getting something for nothing by making the recently suggested tradeoffs.

What you gain in your wallet you are losing somewhere else.


Will that kinda just made me sad :@ I don't want to miss up and now I feel like I am, I'm not adding the hyper 212 stock cooler I am keeping the crucial video card...Anyway I can prevent any draw backs or anything? these are my current specs

MOBO:ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
CPU:Intel Core i5-2400 Sandy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.4GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I52400
RAM:Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model CT2KIT51264BA1339
GPU:Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
PSU:SAPPHIRE 100314-3L Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
HDD:Seagate Barracuda ST500DM002 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
CASE:RAIDMAX Blade ATX-298WW Black / White Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
DVD-RW:ASUS 24X DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit NON-OEM
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January 13, 2012 7:05:31 PM

You haven't messed anything up, you have just made a tradeoff that has consequences.

Those consequences may be small and they may not be worth $50, but they are pretty hard to measure in any event. It is much easier to measure the savings of $50.

I use the heat sink and fan that comes with my processor too, but I do fully understand what I am losing in the process.

By the way, the OS you have selected is not legal according to the terms of the license agreement. If you are trying to stay on the right side of the law, which I must suggest according to the terms of the forum, then you should change your OS to a non-OEM option.

Either a Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit Upgrade CD if you own a legal copy of any version of XP or Vista OR a standard Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit full version CD if you do not.

Otherwise, everything looks fine. Crucial RAM is good, Antec PSUs are good, and the 6850 is a sold performing video card for the budget conscious.
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January 13, 2012 8:57:22 PM

Okay my bad I didn't know what OEM meant i'll changed it right away.
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January 13, 2012 9:08:51 PM

My desktop will live up to 2years+ right? I mean I've a desktop that's like 4-6 years old. Would expect the same from this one. :) 
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January 13, 2012 9:24:31 PM

There is no good reason other than environmental ones why it should last a lesser amount of time.

Power surges or outages can reduce the life of your parts. Large amounts of dust in the air could as well as could extreme temperatures especially hot ones.

Physical trauma could also damage the parts if the computer happens to be tipped over sideways or to fall off of a desk that would also potentially cause parts failures.

In a reasonable setting, low dust low humidity room temperatures and so on then everything should be fine.

If anything the fact that the PSU will be mounted on the bottom should make it last longer than the previous one. That is a new'ish thing that is generally beneficial to the longevity of the PSU (which usually fails the fastest of any part).
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January 14, 2012 12:39:52 AM

okay, I got a cheaper stock cooler $29.99 I'm only putting one in (not including the one that comes with). I think one is enough. 120mm fan size.
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January 14, 2012 11:49:09 AM

You can only have one cooler on the CPU at a time. So either you use the perfectly good one that comes from intel in the box with the i5 or you buy another one. Honestly for a stock i5 there will be very little benefit to spending 30 on a cooler.

If your options are a cooler or a monitor get the monitor.

There is no good reason a new computer should not go many many years. You might need to replace a part every now and again, but a new computer should go for 8-10 years. Keep the computer on the desk or table to cut down on the amount of dust it will suck in. Be gentle with it. Its a computer not a stool, or shelf. The problem is by then the newer computers will be so much more fun.
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January 14, 2012 12:54:46 PM

yeah. what do you mean it'll be so much more fun? like newer equipment?
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January 14, 2012 12:57:51 PM

I think he means that you will think "I need a newer faster PC" before you think "This sucks, my computer broke".
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January 14, 2012 1:55:26 PM

haha I'm on a 1 year old laptop and I hate it so much I hit it like 30 times a day because it makes me mad...lol. but then again who wouldn't : intel celeron 900; 15.6" 16:9 hd LCD; intel gma 4500m; 2gb ddr3 memory (lol); 250gb hdd; dvd-super mullti dl drives.
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January 14, 2012 2:00:07 PM

2GB really has a tough time in 2012. My laptop has 3GBs and it struggles a lot of times.

My wife's computer had 2GBs and struggled until I added another 2GB stick to it.

I had 4GBs in mine but recently changed it out for 8GB on my own PC.

I think 8 really is the sweet spot for 2012. Your computer doesn't need to take much from the RAM and give it to the HD (page file) with 8 GBs installed.

- Edit - BTW, instead of hitting the laptop, why not just put more RAM in it?
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January 14, 2012 2:13:44 PM

don't feel like it's necessary because It has ghost mouse...It randomly just does things. It wasn't from me hitting it because I did that after it was glitching. If it wasn't glitching I might've thought about giving it more ram as you purposed but even a USB mouse sometimes has trouble because of how demented it's now, lol.
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January 14, 2012 3:22:23 PM

Not enough RAM makes computers do all kinds of odd things.

I have seen the scroll wheel quit scrolling and start zooming in when the RAM is overburdened before.

How random is that?

I just closed down some programs and it all of a sudden started scrolling again without me having to do anything else.
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January 16, 2012 12:05:23 AM

Lol, That sucks you better upgrade yours too or just scrap it for parts... :lol: 
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January 16, 2012 12:13:16 AM

Wasn't my computer that happened to.
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January 16, 2012 1:20:48 AM

oh lol, that's good. :D 
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