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HELP!! BSOD, Boot Loops, Crashes Galore!!

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January 17, 2012 2:11:27 AM

I just bought These parts online and tried to build my own computer.

GIGABYTE GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3
Intel Core i5-2500K BX80623I52500
Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Corsair CWCH80 Hydro H80
Intel 320 Series 160GB 2.5" SATA2 3Gb/s Solid State Drive
Corsair 650D Case
Asus PCE-N15 Wireless Card

I re-used these piece from my old computer, so shouldn't be a problem.

Logitech Mouse M510 910-001822
Logitech Keyboard 920-000914
Viewsonic 1080p LED Monitor
Seasonic 750w Power Supply

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I had a EVGA ATX 550t ti Video card in it at one point. But I've taken that out and sent it back for a updated video card. I've had BSOD and so forth after I took it out.

The drivers from it are still on the computer right now, but I don't think that should be a problem.

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I did update the bios to f10 (Most recent, Non-beta)

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I've been having so many issues with this computer. I have Installed my OS multiple times.

I've installed the OS and Used my CD's for Drivers. I Let windows 7 Update itself. It will work for a day or 2 but then I'll start getting the problems.

I've had problems before Windows 7 Starts. I've had problems while installing the OS. I've had problems while running memory diagnostic. Sometimes when I run memory diagnostic everything is just fine...

I've taken the ram out and worked with just 1 stick and still had problems. I switched that stick out for another stick and still had problems.

I've shorted the CMOD, I've taken out the battery for a bit. Not sure if its the bios.

Sometimes in windows, just recently because I moved the Monitor plug to the motherboard after taking out my graphics card. I see lines and such on display before it throws up at me.

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Could someone help me out in finding my problem? Or give direction into finding ether a hardware problem? I can use the computer sometimes, but it is most likely to crash at some point.
January 17, 2012 2:29:03 AM

OK, you can box up the parts and send them to me!

Seriously, let's assume your PSU is working properly because you used it successfully before. You said you had problems testing the RAM.

Start there: download the bootable test file from memtest86+, those files are about 1/2-way down the page.
-- Remove one stick of RAM.
-- Insert the bootable media you put memtest86+ on and start the machine. After POST, it should boot to memetest.
-- Let memtest run its entire test cycle unless it shows FAIL. If it FAILs you have bad RAM, return for replacement.
-- If the first stick passes, then stop, remove the RAM and install the other stick.
-- Boot to memtest86+ and test that stick.
-- If both sticks of RAM pass, then install both to the motherboard and run memtest86+ again.
-- If both sticks together pass, then it looks like you have a motherboard issue. That could be anything from a bad board to a short that happened when you installed the board into the case.

Post your results on the RAM tests, and we can continue from that.
January 17, 2012 2:31:41 AM

The most common causes of BSODs are
1) Bad RAM
2) Power problems
3) Heat
4) Bad Drivers especially video card drivers
5) Bad Hard Drive
6) Changed out motherboards without reinstalling Windows

You should definitely be able to download MemTest86+ and get through 8 hours worth of RAM testing without any errors.

If you can't do that, then the first thing I would do is type in google "GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 crucial ram" and go to the link to the crucial website and see the kinds they have listed that work with your board. Preferably a set of 2 x 4GBs 1600 RAM.

Their RAM has very low failure rates.

Start with that.

Also, you can take the sides off your case. If heat is being trapped in your case then that might help it get up and out. If your computer is more stable like this then you might need a better case.
Related resources
January 17, 2012 2:57:23 AM

I'm having trouble figuring out how to boot with this meathod. I got a USB stick.
I put the "Pre-Compiled Bootable Binary (.zip)" on it and tried to boot from "USB FFD"..
I admit I'm not the most computer literate person.

How do I do it correctly?
January 17, 2012 3:05:31 AM

You will have to unzip it and copy it to the USB stick, or get the .exe file and put it on the USB stick.
January 17, 2012 3:09:53 AM

Yes, you have to unzip it and put the files on it, or use a program that can create bootable CDs and write them on a CD instead.
January 17, 2012 4:00:05 AM

I can't seem to make the usb work. Right now the computer is stuck in a boot loop cycle. Turns On and Off, doesn't even make it to Bios. Unplugging and Draining Power Isn't resetting it. Arg...

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Okay, Its turning on now. I also got it to start running the Ram Tests. I'll let it do that for a while. How many tests should I run per ram?? (I got four of them)
January 17, 2012 11:11:15 AM

Let it run to completion for each stick. It may take an hour for each stick, there are 8 or 9 different test patterns to complete.
January 17, 2012 3:45:30 PM

Actually, I believe there are 10 and I am pretty sure the 10th one is quite an important sort. If someone has the time to let it go for 8 or 9 passes they should let it complete the 10th one too.

I would just put all the RAM in and walk away from it for like 9 hours.
January 17, 2012 4:01:21 PM

Yea, run memtest for a few passes... but I'm betting on a faulty Motherboard.

"Okay, Its turning on now." - what did you have to do to get it to boot again? Or did it magically start working.
January 17, 2012 4:16:51 PM

Did you say it is suppost to run for 1 hour? This has been running for 6 hours so far. There is an errors though. From what I can see (Don't know how to scroll up or down list.)

tst / pass / failing / address / good / bad / error bits

8 5 000b5697688 - 2903.5mb 377918e0 377938e0 00002000 28
8 5 000b6b0f688 - 2923.0mb 377918e0 377938e0 00002000 29
8 5 000b745b1d8 - 2932.3mb 377918e0 377938e0 00002000 30
8 5 000b5ef0c18 - 2910.mb 29dbd809 29dbd909 00000100 31

This list goes on.. for a few more.. Is it ram? cause I have switched out the ram and same thing happens.. (I have 4 sticks of ram, they are all the same type Corsair Vengeance.)
January 17, 2012 4:32:45 PM

It could be that the RAM isn't a sort that is compatible with your motherboard.

It could also be that Corsair has the highest failure rate among the major manufacturers for a reason.

It could also be that somehow a bad motherboard or processor is causing this.

That being said, I can't remember a time where someone had RAM fails with MemTest86+ that replacing the RAM wouldn't work at getting rid of the errors.

I have seen people have to replace it 2 or 3 times to get a good set before, but not that it wasn't possible to pass with a different set of sticks.

It may help to RMA the RAM to Corsair for a new set, or they may give you another bad set and you have to repeat the process.

It may also be that no matter how many of the same type they give you that it won't ever work right if that kind just isn't good for your board.

I would suggest you just replace it with RAM that is from a better brand, instead. Crucial has one of (if not the singular) lowest failure rates in the industry. You can just go on their website and select your motherboard and they will list out things that are all tested successfully with that board. Then you can take one off the list and put it in, confident that 99% likely it will plug and play with no problems.

I personally like the one that is in my signature

CT2KIT51264BA1339

I have never heard of this not working for anyone if it says it on the page dedicated to their board.
January 17, 2012 5:02:39 PM

I think I'm going to return both the ram and the motherboard back to my retailer. (They are very close, and shipping is cheap.)

I was thinking an Asus or Intel motherboard and some Ram what do you recommend? I'm looking at around $300 give or take.

I would prefer the ram to have some kind of coolsync on it. (I don't really like handeling chips.. rofl...)

This is my first computer build. So I might have gone a bit overboard with some stuff.
January 17, 2012 5:44:04 PM

I think the Gigabyte board is probably fine and you should take the RAM part number that I suggested.

I think you will be fine with the RAM that doesn't have the cute little heat spreaders long enough to stick it in once.
January 17, 2012 6:18:46 PM

ROFL, true enough. I'll try that.
January 17, 2012 11:51:50 PM

Your RAM was bad. 6 hours may be appropriate for a 4GB stick - that is a lot of RAM to test.

One other thing: When you change the RAM settings in BIOS, you should again run memtest86+...on each stick. Overclockers have learned that changing the settings on the RAM can cause the RAM to fail, causing random BSODs, especially when you are testing your system under load.

I use memtest86+ on every stick of RAM I get. It finds problems quicker and I can RMA it for replacement.

Crucial, G. Skill, and Kingston all make solid RAM. Corsair's is good when a new model first becomes available (and is very expensive). After a couple of months of production, their RAM seems to have high FAIL rates, probably from cutting corners on their quality control to get the product out.
January 18, 2012 2:40:05 PM

I was past my 30 day, yeah I ordered around Christmas, Bad Time. So I can't return them back to the supplier. I think I can return the defective ones back to the Manufacturer.

Looking at the different types of ram. I really would like Heat Spreaders, not just for handling. (As my room in summer gets really hot cause of wall paneling. Its like a Hot Box.)

I never really changed any bios settings. Maybe that could be the problem as well?


I'm currently looking ay these right now at New Egg. Still Running Memory Tests ATM. (G.Skill Ripjaws F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL)

January 18, 2012 3:15:12 PM

Those are listed in your board's Memory Support List and have high customer ratings. Run memtest86+ on installation, one stick at a time.

The G.Skill RAM at newegg that shows in the Memory Support list is here.

Your motherboard support page is here. Click on the Memory Support List to see which sticks have been successfully tested on your board.

Also note that your board supports up to DDR3 2400, so you could get higher speed RAM, so you could choose the other set on my link above - for $5 more, you get a a little faster RAM..

January 18, 2012 4:09:42 PM

Faster RAM has few to no advantages over slower RAM and significant disadvantages. There is no harm in avoiding it.

Also, heat spreaders will do practically nothing to assist with high ambient temperatures.

If you just plain want cooler looking RAM, I can understand that.

I don't think heat spreaders have been shown to cause differences in performance in any conditions of any kind, though.
January 18, 2012 5:09:22 PM

I'm thinking two sets of "F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL". Think it is too much? (16GB)

Lots of forums say to go 1600. Others say it doesn't make a difference. I'm not going to be overclocking or anything so will that make a difference?

I'll admit I don't like the red color. To me ram with heat sink just looks sturdier and that appeals to me more, not that it is or anything. Also can't hurt to have as many cooling options as possible. :p 

"I admit I did splurge on a Corsair Airflow Fan for the memory when I bought everything. Though I don't like how close and cramped it is to the CPU cooler as well as how it sits on the memory, so I took it out."

What can I say, it's my first PC that I've put together myself. Though it is driving me insane I am learning more in these weeks then I have ever known about computers. :p 
January 18, 2012 6:01:18 PM

I don't think I have ever heard of a stick of RAM having heat problems that caused a RAM failure.

If I did hear of such a time, I would suggest a better case or using additional fans for the current case if there were optional fan ports included that weren't being used.

If someone said they were having RAM problems after OCing the RAM I would just say to quit doing it since there is substantially no benefit to doing it anyway.

If you want the one that looks sturdier or whatever then just get it. I can't fault people for wanting to like looking at their RAM if that is their thing.

I am just saying there are pretty much 0 advantages over a plain stick with no heat spreader other than the eye appeal when you look at it.
January 18, 2012 6:24:33 PM

True, should have got a case without a window. Then it wouldn't bug me as much. It's all in my head. ROFL

Though F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL is on the compatibility list and CT2KIT51264BA1339 isn't. Though they probably don't have everything that is compatible on that list. It is kind of reassuring that it is though.

Still debating over 1600 or 1333, i5 recommends 1333. But the fact people say 1600 is faster jumbled my mind. Hard choice.

You say 1333 has less disadvantages? Maybe it's better go go with safe over sorry.


January 18, 2012 6:45:36 PM

The motherboard maker has one list and the RAM maker has a separate list. Stuff that appears on one doesn't necessarily appear on the other, but as long as it is on either list that is all that counts.

Here is a link that shows the CT2KIT51264BA1339 is good for the Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 motherboard

http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartspecs.aspx?mtbpoid=B0...

If you want to go safe over sorry, I think you are better off with the CT2KIT51264BA1339 over pretty much anything else. I think it is pretty close to the most perfect set of RAM in existence in terms of mass market applicability, failure rates, price, and all that stuff.

No small feat with hundreds of makers and models of RAM in existence.

1600 hasn't been shown to be significantly faster in any benchmarks that I am aware of when using real world applications.

It is possible that a benchmarking program could be written that would demonstrate that 1600 is better in some way, but if that can't be translated into increased application performance (evidence suggests this is true) then what good is the increased numbers shown in the synthetic benchmarking program?

In my experience, the 1333 RAM just works right more often than 1600 RAM does or any number above that for that matter.
January 18, 2012 11:09:27 PM

storm_whm said:
I'm thinking two sets of "F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL". Think it is too much? (16GB)
The 8GB should be sufficient unless you are going to be working with large databases or video-editing, then get the 16GB. Motherboards often need tweaking when all the DIMMs are populated - usually involving increasing voltage increases to the motherboard.

You said you installed W7 - if it is not the 64-bit version, you do not need more than 4GB of RAM because the 32-bit version can only see and use ~3.5GB total memory.


Lots of forums say to go 1600. Others say it doesn't make a difference. I'm not going to be overclocking or anything so will that make a difference?
You won't see the difference unless you ran them both in benchmarking apps, like Everest. 1600MHz has been the most popular DDR3 RAM - it, itself is overclocked 1333MHz RAM, so get either set.

I'll admit I don't like the red color. To me ram with heat sink just looks sturdier and that appeals to me more, not that it is or anything. Also can't hurt to have as many cooling options as possible. :p 
You are not limited to G.Skill, just be sure your selection has been tested and verified to function properly on your board.

"I admit I did splurge on a Corsair Airflow Fan for the memory when I bought everything. Though I don't like how close and cramped it is to the CPU cooler as well as how it sits on the memory, so I took it out."

What can I say, it's my first PC that I've put together myself. Though it is driving me insane I am learning more in these weeks then I have ever known about computers. :p 


See responses above. Building systems is challenging and it helps to read the documentation for the components you want to use. Generally you''ll start with what you want to do, e.g., gaming, video-editing, or general purpose use. Then you decide the CPU you want and get a motherboard that runs it. Then you review and choose compatible RAM, GPU, PSU, SSD/HDDs, Optical drive(s), and maybe, a sound card.

The biggest challenge for me is to balance the components with my budget.
January 18, 2012 11:26:03 PM

Hmm.. I was looking at these.. Heatsyncs

Even though it does seem like a myth. I still find it believable that putting 2 bodies of mass together to distributes at least some heat could work. Though Blue does look better, The copper is probably a way better conductor.

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Well I do plan to use it for both gaming and graphical design. Like Lightwave and Mudbox. I have Windows 7 Home Premium x64. I do like to multitask, and have a few windows open at the same time.

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I also like to say, I really appreciate these tips. Thx to the both of you.
January 18, 2012 11:42:27 PM

All the RAM I have bought since 2002 have had factory installed heatsinks. I think they help, too, and I have windows in all my cases, so I want them to look good. I have read in these forums that the "thermal tape" on after-market RAM heatsinks tend not to hold as well as those that are factory-installed (you could search the forum, if you like).

Most of the factory-installed RAM heatsinks are aluminum. Copper is heavier. I don't think it matters, although I'm surprised that the copper is cheaper. Are you sure you want to pay $6.99 or $9.99 for shipping?

Other:
-- Your OS will support more RAM than any motherboard on the market today.
-- You could probably use all 16GB of RAM.
-- Even with 16GB RAM, don't disable the pagefile.sys, it causes more problems than it solves (search the forum)
January 19, 2012 12:21:31 AM

Probably just better to add a fan to one of my PCI slots. ROFL. When I check my bios though, it does say the temperature my System is 20 - 30 Degrees and my CPU is 14 - 24 degrees. It varies when I check it. But maybe its like that cause I haven't been overusing it.

Yeah I don't like the sound of the thermal glue just in general. Though the clips should hold it on. Very hard choice for the ram, I shouldn't wait too long to decide. I'm hoping to get this rig up before Diablo 3 comes out ROFL.

The mysterious wonder ram "CT2KIT51264BA1339" or the highly bought and rated ram "F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL". I did see some reviews on how Crucial overclocks really well, but then Ripsaw got good reviews on speed. I'm never going to overclock, but that does make me think of how much quality is put into crucial.

I do see the point though, how hot are these things going to really get. My room temperature does spike sometimes, and a Heat sync wont help with room temperature. So I'd probably be better off with just an extra PCI Fan.

I'm just way too picky. I spent a few weeks deciding what case I wanted. I was cringing from the fact that lots of cases look like Megatrons face. Took me a while to find a sleek design with allot of the essentials, within a reasonable price range. But then after I buy the 650D, Corsair decides to release the 550D.. With Sound dampening and Dust FIlters.. (Though I hate how it doesn't have the hidden Reset, Multimedia front. I shouldn't complain I got mine on clearance for around $120 :p )

Too bad I just threw whatever was inside together.. ROFL (Figuratively threw together mind you, It took me and my brother forever to put it together cause I was so anal on static and delicacy.)
January 19, 2012 2:17:25 AM

I think either will work, the Crucial page shows they tested it and it passed. You put a lot of thought into your system, and you know what you want.

If the RAM gets too hot to touch, then think about adding a fan. A 120mm fan will fit nicely into three 5.25" bays. It will take in room temperature air, and blow it right across your RAM and CPU. Thermaltake makes an aluminum cage that holds such a fan and up to 3 HDDs. If you want the fan and not buy a cage, you can use nylon zip ties to attach it to the bays' frame.

Get a fan with a 3-pin connector, and not a MOLEX connector and you can power it from the closest motherboard fan pin-set.
January 19, 2012 2:29:26 AM

I would think anyone getting additional fans would probably want molex fans because it doesn't take much to max out all the fan connections on most motherboards.

It is a lot harder to max out the molex connectors, especially since the molex connector fans can daisy chain themselves (at least mine can).
January 19, 2012 3:18:47 AM

I use the two big fans that came with the case, they are connected to the fan controls, Still has 1 more connection I think. The Corsair H80 sits on the exhaust port, it blows inwards in the general area of the CPU and the Ram. It's very cold, I was thinking of the PCI fan cause I think it would help to expel heat upwards.

The case ATM is mostly Inward positive airflow, using the natural flow of heat to expelling out the top. Well that's what I think anyways. The power supply is flipped upside down blowing downwards through the bottom filter.

I do have 3 free slots in my 5.25 bays. I never ever really have anything in them. I was thinking of buying a toaster, a coffee holder with a cigarette lighter, and an extra drawer just for the comedy factor.

I like to have easy remove intake filters, cause I'm very lazy when it comes to dusting. So not sure about those 5.25 fan slots, if I can find one with one I'd probably do it. Funny thing is I have 4 new black coolmaster 120 fans just sitting in there boxes. I had originally orders a Lian Li case with multiple fan slots, but then i cancelled cause it was too tall and I guess it was a little too pricey as well.

When my graphics card comes in I'll probably put that in, I orderd a "EVGA 012-P3-1573-AR GeForce GTX 570", They got a nice warranty and Step-Up service. I do hear they get a little hot.
January 19, 2012 12:38:10 PM

The PSU blows out the side that the cord plugs into which is most likely the back. It sounds like it is sucking air in from under the case the way you have described it.

Anyway, I might try to engineer your way into negative airflow if it were me.

- Edit - Typo
January 19, 2012 4:57:17 PM

So I should turn my fans around on the Corsair H80 and have them shoot out the back as well?

I did end up buying two of the "CT2KIT51264BA1339". Now I got to wait for it in the mail.
January 19, 2012 5:38:59 PM

I would have the cooler aim out the back, yes. The more heat that goes out of the case the better.
January 19, 2012 8:17:37 PM

Generally internal case airflow is front to back, even when there is a top or "blowhole" fan or a side fan blowing onto a GPU. This configuration intakes cool air, passes it over the components (which heat it) and exhausts the heated air out the rear.

A top exhaust fan will draw the warmest air from around the CPU and RAM.


A side intake fan blows cooler air directly on to the CPU (old cases) or the GPU (less old, but not new cases). Almost no new cases have side fans because they interrupt the internal front to back airflow and adversely affect overall internal cooling.
January 19, 2012 8:30:54 PM

If I take my side fan out and put the cover back over the hole, you think I will have lower video card temperatures?
January 19, 2012 9:29:10 PM

I don't have fan mounts for my door, I actually want a solid door really. Maybe that PCI fan would be good after all for the graphics card, cause most likely I'll be running on high settings.

Maybe the solid door would work on a water cooled computer, keeping the cold in. But I think the fans on the door would help cool it down more for fan based systems.
January 19, 2012 9:29:42 PM

Raiddinn said:
If I take my side fan out and put the cover back over the hole, you think I will have lower video card temperatures?

I have no way of knowing, have you tried it?

I think you got my point, though: if your case came with a side fan, it is more than 3 years old - back before the AMD 4XXX GPUs.

Some newer cases still have a side vent with fan mounting holes, so the builder can add one. I have not found side fans necessary, I have excellent cable management that does not impede the airflow and I run front to back with 2 120mm intake, 1 120mm exhaust, and the PSU exhaust - you can see my configurations.
January 19, 2012 9:48:11 PM

I installed my own side fan and I am quite sure the temperature would be higher if I disconnect it.

Side fans are actually still pretty good in 2012.
January 24, 2012 8:28:59 PM

I got my new ram... But I'm stuck in some kind of boot loop I cant get out of. Computer starts, then turns off, starts, then turns off. I took out everything except USB Keyboard, Monitor, and 1 stick of ram.. still no go. My CPU is from my other computer so I know it works, 750W Seasonic.

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I switched my ram from slot 1 to slot 4 and now it boots past the boot loop. I see a checksum error HPA not found. And it laods backup bios or something.
January 24, 2012 9:22:11 PM

When you say you see a checksum error, it that on the POST screen while it's checking the RAM? Does it finish POST, but not boot to memtest86+?

Can you enter the BIOS settings? If so, set the BIOS to the default settings (sometimes called "safe"), then save and exit the BIOS settings to see if it will boot to memtest86+
January 24, 2012 9:35:47 PM

It should be default settings I don't ever change anything in bios. I did notice though for some reason if I plug anything in slot 1 and 3 of my ram slots the computer goes through boot loops.

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Checksum error comes after bios, but usually after I turn off and drain power. After I switched my ram around.
January 24, 2012 10:04:44 PM

In your first post you said you had updated to the current BIOS.

I don't know if RAM slots 1 and 3 were problems before, but since they are now problems and cause the system not to boot. It sounds like the motherboard does not meet specs. All the RAM slots should function. Time to RMA the board for replacement.

This is really unusual to have a bad motherboard AND RAM.
January 24, 2012 10:14:47 PM

The computer boots fine now, since i switched ram slots. But I can't seem to use slot 1 and 3. If I put ram in them it boot loops. I just switched the ram I put in slot 4 and 2. Funny how it works when I'm not using them in their proper spots.

ATM my motherboard is this.
GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 (rev 1.3) Bios F10
January 24, 2012 10:35:20 PM

storm_whm said:
The computer boots fine now, since i switched ram slots. But I can't seem to use slot 1 and 3. If I put ram in them it boot loops. I just switched the ram I put in slot 4 and 2. Funny how it works when I'm not using them in their proper spots.

ATM my motherboard is this.
GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 (rev 1.3) Bios F10
If you have got it working and you are happy, then have some fun with it.


p.s. You might want to check the reviews on newegg, you aren't the only one with probs.!
January 24, 2012 11:43:21 PM

this is not good to hear, i just picked up this board and a 2500k and was going to build it up the end of the week.
January 25, 2012 12:31:58 AM

Yeah, and the more I look online the more I see people having the same problems with the exact same thing. Maybe bad product line? Some of those people say its a bent pin. I was pretty anal about putting that CPU in so im positive I did not bend any pins. Too scared to take it out now, I'll wait till gigabyte replies before I do anything like that.
January 25, 2012 12:49:11 AM

If you change the amount of RAM without resetting the BIOS, sometimes it doesn't rebuild the configuration file.

Pretend the CPU says "4GB RAM, where are you at?"

and RAM 1 says "I'm here" and RAM 2 also says "I'm here".

It sounds like it is getting confused about the RAM and starting over from scratch trying to call for the RAM again.

If you take the battery out for 30 min and push the RAM hard to make sure it is in then it will rebuild the configuration file and ask again how much RAM is there in total.

Then it should recognize the new amount.

That is what it sounds like to me anyway.
January 25, 2012 1:12:45 AM

The pins in the RAM slots can also get bent.... really hard to notice, but I have seen it happen. RMA the motherboard.... you should not have to deal with faulty RAM slots.

EDIT - Love when my initial diagnoses turns out to be correct... muahahaha... :) 
January 25, 2012 5:36:37 PM

I do too, except it isn't at all clear that your original idea was correct.

- Edit - It is even likely that it isn't. I had a multiple restart on my home PC before and it was from a RAM amount change and it didn't require a new motherboard.
!