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Component compatibility checker

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January 18, 2012 5:44:17 PM

Hello all,

This is my first computer build and I want to double check that all my components will be compatible. This will be used primarily for gaming/basic computer tasks. If anyone has any suggestions, hints, or possible issues I would be very grateful for your input.

Processor: Intel Core i7-2600k (I know its overkill but I do play a lot of processor heavy Flight Sim games, possible Overclocking but not sure yet same goes for graphics cards)

Mobo: Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen3

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (again overkill but I got all 16GB for $59.98 from NewEgg and couldn't pass up)

Graphics Cards: Two SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 (in crossfire)

HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"

SSD: Crucial M4 2.5" 64GB SATA III

CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus

Optical Drive: ASUS SATA 24X DVD Burner

Power Supply: OCZ ZX Series 850W

Monitor: ASUS VH232H 23" 1080p LCD Monitor

Case: Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower

OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit

Thanks in advance!

Luke
January 18, 2012 5:51:18 PM

For any game, the you wont see a performance increase using an i7 over an i5 2500k. I don't think there is a game out that utilizes hyperthreading, which is the only real advantage of the i7.

I would also change the dual 6870's out for a single card. The 6970 will give you great performance, and CF has some issues that single cards won't. Unless you're just stuck on using AMD, check out the GTX 570

You also don't need any more than 8gb of ram for a gaming rig, thats ~40 bucks you can invest somewhere else in the system.
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January 18, 2012 6:01:43 PM

Besides the change from the Intel® Core™ i7-2600K to the Intel Core i5-2500K there really isnt else that says change me for an improvement or savings. If you do drop down to a single video card you could drip the PSU down to 650w.

Christian Wood
Intel Enthusiast Team
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January 18, 2012 6:08:47 PM

OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
Case: Mid-size Tower of your choice
PSU: 750W
And the i5-2500K, 8GB RAM and HD 6970 jeremyp mentioned.

If that saves you enough consider a better LCD monitor.
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January 18, 2012 6:09:17 PM

Thank you for the input so far I look forward to more! As far as the CPU goes I have heard from a few different places that games like Microsoft Flight Sim X is pretty CPU dependent I just want to make sure that the i5 2500k would be able to handle the demand. Basically unless I need Hyper-threading then go with the i5 2500k right?
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January 18, 2012 6:11:38 PM

lukehouse356 said:
Thank you for the input so far I look forward to more! As far as the CPU goes I have heard from a few different places that games like Microsoft Flight Sim X is pretty CPU dependent I just want to make sure that the i5 2500k would be able to handle the demand. Basically unless I need Hyper-threading then go with the i5 2500k right?


Exactly, and the only programs that will utilize hyper threading are production software. It would also improve time unzipping/zipping files, converting video, things of that nature. But for the average gamer, its ~100 bucks better spent somewhere else in the system.
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January 18, 2012 6:14:32 PM

Yep, 2500K for sure. FS is easy to run; a 2500K will eat it up.

750W, actually, will be enough for anything but two 580s. This other OCZ's good: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I'd avoid going straight for Xfire. If you can get a single card for double the price, (which is perfectly feasible on your budget), you should just do that. Then you'll be able to add another later, so you leave yourself with an upgrade path. Here that'd be a 570.

You could do with a cheaper case. Choose almost entirely by looks, and know that almost anything over $50 will work just fine. If you like the 1200's look, go for it, but only if you think the style's worth the price.

Any reason you need Windows Ultimate? It offers almost nothing over the far cheaper Home. Compare here: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/products/co...

What is your overall budget?
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January 18, 2012 6:14:58 PM

Officially changed my mind to the i5, now what to do with the extra $100 lol
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January 18, 2012 6:17:50 PM

With the extra 100, you could go from the 64g ssd to the 128g version. 64 isn't gonna have much room left after installing windows, 128 will give you a lot more room to put your games and whatever other programs you want to load faster on.
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January 18, 2012 6:19:51 PM

As far as the Window Ultimate goes I was looking for backwards compatibility with Microsoft XP programs. (I have a few games from back in the day i would like to resurrect lol)
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January 18, 2012 6:23:02 PM

If XP era games are important for you - set up a dual boot option for both Win7 and WinXP.
Games don't like running in a Win7 Pro/Ultimate VM.
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January 18, 2012 6:23:16 PM

I know Microsoft professional has the xp compatibility too but the Price is so similar (especially on ebay) that why not go Ultimate.
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January 18, 2012 6:25:28 PM

Would the Dual boot option require an additional HDD. If not could you elaborate on how to setup?
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January 18, 2012 6:29:03 PM

You get a boot time option of which OS to load.
You can have several bootable partition on the same HDD.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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January 18, 2012 7:35:33 PM

On a separate note, there is a possibility that I will need a Wireless internet adapter for my computer as my router is in another room. Could anyone suggest a reliable PCI express type wireless adapter for my system?
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January 18, 2012 7:38:52 PM

One that would be compatible with the Wireless N type of service.
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January 18, 2012 7:52:08 PM

I don't know the adapters out there, but I recommend running a wire. That way you won't get your service knocked out whenever somebody uses the microwave.
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January 18, 2012 7:57:19 PM

I would recommend moving the router to wherever the computer is...
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January 18, 2012 9:04:50 PM

That's the same thing; you still have to run a wire to the router.
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January 18, 2012 9:29:31 PM

Understood. The only issue is that the router is in the room that it is in because that is where the hookups are for it. If I was to run a cable I would either need to drill a hole in the wall (i live in an apartment and don't think management would be too happy with the hole), or run like a 30+ft cable
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January 18, 2012 11:47:46 PM

If someone could supply me with a adjacent room adapter for an Ethernet cable (basically transferring the cable from one room to another through the wall) that would be great.
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January 18, 2012 11:54:20 PM

supply me with info*
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January 19, 2012 12:02:31 AM

Maybe AC powerline networking?
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January 20, 2012 5:37:47 PM

Another question i have, my power supply (ocz 850w gold fully modular) just for curiosity i plugged it into the wall without any of the other cables attached or it connected to and devices to see if it worked, once i flipped the switch nothing happened, i could hear a very faint hum but that was it, the fan did not move at all and i was wondering if that was normal, does the fan only move when the psu is under load or is this a sign of a defective psu?
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!