Need advice on new gaming computer

Hi everyone,

I am just new to this forum so please tell me if I did anything wrong.
I am going to build a gaming computer and also use it for video editing/heavy photo editing.
I currently live in New Zealand, so pricing is different there. I use PriceSpy for price and product comparison.
Here is my list on PriceSpy.

Approximate Purchase Date: Around February 2012

Budget Range: $NZ2500

System Usage from Most to Least Important: (e.g.: Folding@Home, gaming, surfing the internet, watching movies)

Parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, OS

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: PriceSpy www.pricespy.co.nz

Country: New Zealand

Parts Preferences: I would like to use an Intel CPU & Asus mobo and full tower case

Overclocking: Yes

SLI or Crossfire: Maybe

Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080, 1920x1200

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600k 3.4GHz
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO LGA1155
RAM: Team Group Xtreem LV DDR3 PC17066/2133MHz CL9 2x4GB
SSD: Crucial m4 2.5" 128GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 64MB 1TB
GPU: Asus GeForce ENGTX560 TI DCII TOP/2DI/1GD5 1GB
Optical: Lite-On iHAS324
PSU: OCZ ZX Series 850W
Case: Cooler Master CM 690 II Nvidia Edition (Black)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus

I just wanted to ask some questions about these components:
1) Is there any problems with this build? Do you have any recommendations to improve this build?

2) How far can I overclock the CPU with these components?

3) I am not sure exactly whether the RAM is good or not; it is the cheapest DDR3-2133 RAM; here are the options. Will I be able to overclock the RAM?

4) I've heard that a Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB SATA2 is better than the WD Black, with the only advantages of having a WD Black are bigger cache and SATA3. I also heard that the WD Black is very noisy. Is this true? Which one should I get?

Thanks everyone :D
3 answers Last reply
More about need advice gaming computer
  1. Quote:
    1) Is there any problems with this build? Do you have any recommendations to improve this build?


    First if gaming is your main concern drop the i7 to the i5-2500K - it's the same CPU for $100 less.

    I don't think I'd trust that RAM brand. Stick with one of the major ones - Corsair, G.Skill, Crucial, PNY, etc. These brands have the lowest fail rates in the industry. RAM is cheap and that's one area where you don't want to get the wrong brand.

    The case is a bit old too - it's from 2007 - 2008. Newer suggestions in that price range I'd go with the Antec 1100, Corsair Carbide, or Cooler Master HAF 912.

    Quote:
    2) How far can I overclock the CPU with these components?


    With a Hyper 212 and an 850W PSU you can easily take the 2500K to anywhere between 4.5 - 5GHz easily.

    Quote:
    3) I am not sure exactly whether the RAM is good or not; it is the cheapest DDR3-2133 RAM; here are the options. Will I be able to overclock the RAM?


    After what Proximon posted about Intel's RMA policies - do not get anything above 1600. Intel actually recommends that you stick with 1333 or 1066 for an SB build due to the memory controller being on the chip. Anything above 1600 and Intel will void your warranty. If you OC your RAM - not only is it bad news, but Intel will void your warranty if they find out.

    Quote:
    4) I've heard that a Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB SATA2 is better than the WD Black, with the only advantages of having a WD Black are bigger cache and SATA3. I also heard that the WD Black is very noisy. Is this true? Which one should I get?


    Not necessarily - it's mainly fanboyism that says that the Spinpoint is better - I've used both and they're essentially the same drive.

    Your build looks really good - just check the suggestions I posed in #1 and go from there.
  2. Thanks for your reply g-unit1111
    Is Mushkin a good RAM brand? Since I saved a lot of money by dropping to a 2500k and swapping the case, I was wondering if I should get the Mushkin Redline Ridgeback DDR3 PC12800/1600MHz CL7 4x4GB (993982). It has a very low latency and runs at 1600MHz so it won't void my CPU warranty. Also, if I buy this RAM, do I have to go into the UEFI BIOS and change the RAM voltage to 1.65v and speed to 1600mhz? Or will it automatically set to that on my motherboard? I was reading my local computer magazine today and it had a column about overclocking. If I'm overclocking my CPU do I have to change the vcore to 1.35v? And what is QPI/VTT voltage? I'm just a newbie to overclocking so please bear with me.

    Also, the case I switched it to was an In-Win Mana 136 Black one. Lots of people and reviews said that it was really cheap, good looking and has the newer technologies like two USB 3.0 ports and EZ-swap HDD bays. It only costs around $NZ70. Is it a good case?
  3. user_123 said:
    Thanks for your reply g-unit1111
    Is Mushkin a good RAM brand? Since I saved a lot of money by dropping to a 2500k and swapping the case, I was wondering if I should get the Mushkin Redline Ridgeback DDR3 PC12800/1600MHz CL7 4x4GB (993982). It has a very low latency and runs at 1600MHz so it won't void my CPU warranty. Also, if I buy this RAM, do I have to go into the UEFI BIOS and change the RAM voltage to 1.65v and speed to 1600mhz? Or will it automatically set to that on my motherboard? I was reading my local computer magazine today and it had a column about overclocking. If I'm overclocking my CPU do I have to change the vcore to 1.35v? And what is QPI/VTT voltage? I'm just a newbie to overclocking so please bear with me.

    Also, the case I switched it to was an In-Win Mana 136 Black one. Lots of people and reviews said that it was really cheap, good looking and has the newer technologies like two USB 3.0 ports and EZ-swap HDD bays. It only costs around $NZ70. Is it a good case?


    Mushkin is a good RAM maker - they're easily in the top tier among RAM makers. You don't necessarily need 16GB but you can get 8 and be perfectly fine.

    But it's never a good thing to OC your RAM - messing with the voltage has the potential to fry your system. In the BIOS you can set your RAM to run at stock speeds but you never want to go over. Your motherboard will always by default run your RAM at the lowest speeds and timings it can handle - and messing with that even slightly can have serious consequences.

    A lot of the OC terminology you're using is a lot of stuff I'm not familiar with - someone else will have to explain that.

    I don't know much about In-Win. I generally try not to go with the lesser known manufacturers unless they get really high praise and reviews like Fractal Design does. I really like to play it safe and be really cautious with my builds because I don't have the money to replace something if it goes wrong, so I want to buy it once and be done with it. You're better sticking with a major manufacturer like Cooler Master, Antec, Corsair, NZXT, Rosewill, etc.
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