Help Needed New Build Stopped Working


CASE: ASAKA Venom Toxic
MOBO: Gigabyte 990fxa-UD3 AM3+ Ready
CPU: FX 8120, 3.1 GHz 16 mb cache (socket AM3+)
RAM: Ripjaw 4GB DDR3 Ram x2 (8gb total)
DISPLAY: 42" TV, Connected by VGA Port
HDD: 1TB HDD (make and model unknown lol)
DVD Drive
Belkin Router
Computer speaker
Wireless keyboard and mouse attached by usb port
3 case fans

Present Malfunction:

When the power button is pressed to turn the computer on My display comes out of "sleep mode" and shows no display detected message then begins its countdown to reenter "sleep mode". Before the 30 second counter finishes the display shows the no display detected message again then resets the counter.

While this is happening, beginning from the point at which the power button is pressed, all the fans in the case kick on including the gfx card fan(the gfx card fan keeps stopping then re-powering every 2 seconds). I do not have a case speaker and cannot tell if it is posting nor can i tell if there are any error beeps; this MOBO lacks led lights that help with errors as well.

In short there is no display and no post with a cycling reboot, all of this occurred after I woke up from a nap, what woke me up was the sound of the gfx card fan "re-engaging". The computer was on before i fell asleep i am unaware of what led to this problem. first thing i did was a "hard shut down" by holding the power button.

Here is a video to better understand turn ur speakers up to hear the fan

History of Present Malfuntion:

The same issue occurred at initial "home boot". I tried to build the computer myself, failed to plug in the second power cord that plugs into the mobo (only had the big 16 pin bulg in), had it built at computer parts store it booted up fine there. brought it home and this all happened.

I fixed it the first time by following these steps:
1.unplugged psu
2. held power button for 3 seconds
3. took cmos battry out for 15 minutes
4. plugged everything back up
5. hit power button and it was still broken
6. let it sit for a while hit it again the computer seemed to stutter but it then began working as intended

What I've already Done
1. steps one through five right before this section
2. slotted ram sticks one by one in first ram slot
10 answers Last reply
More about help needed build stopped working
  1. I've also had alot of issues with sleep mode on newer boards, especially with wireless keyboards. I use an ssd instead, and power up each time. I would try an ocz if you can't fix your issues. The agility or petrol series work pretty well. You can power up in about 30 seconds with all windows 7 security files, including service pack one.
  2. yes im plaining on improving this system as i go as its kinda barebones at the moment... but i need to get it to atleast can anyone think of anything i havent tried yet?
  3. Do you have another display to try instead of the TV? I have seen this be a problem in the past when I was using certain connections/displays etc.

    Reseat the gpu. If neither works try onboard video if you have it. If that doesn't work you at least know its the tv/connection/possibly mobo but I doubt it.
  4. yeah i have no other displays and im pretty sure its not the display, i have reseated the gfx card to no avail as well. Im leaning towards it being a power supply issue or some kind of "computer cant wake up issue" anyone know how to reset it so thats its not trying to resume windows (i think it may be trying to do that)
  5. I don't know but why would you trust your brand new build to a cheap, generic unknown branded psu. That's the most important component of a system. :pfff:
  6. the psu is not unknown, its a korean brand i just didnt anticipate on needing more wattage.
  7. I've been building since 1997 and I never heard of it, and it doesn't come up on a Google search, so it's UNKNOWN.

    A generic 500w psu may only put out a real 300w and probably horribly inefficient.

    You can't expect to run and protect your high end parts with a generic Korean pos psu.
  8. Three things first:
    1. With a nonworking system, you really need a case speaker. Without one, you will be changing parts at random.
    2. You need a better power supply. The only hits google and bing have is this post.
    3. I do not know if your motherboard supports Bulldozer without updating the BIOS.

    Many of the following steps depend on the case speaker.

    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.
    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU. Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU. At this point, if you do not have a system (internal case) speaker, you really need one.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps, LED's, or fan activity:

    Check for line power at the PSU input. Extension cords, power strips, and power cords do fail.

    If you have power and no beeps, suspect components in likely order are PSU, motherboard, and CPU.

    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  9. A AM3+ motherboard does not need a bios update to run a AM3+ cpu.
  10. Yeah I'll be working on that new PSU come the first of February. Hopefully I can find a computer speaker in a computer parts store i would order one from the internet but being stationed in korea means I could be waiting months until it arrives a my units mail room.
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