Flashing Lines on Screen when In-Game

This problem is (guesstimate wise) 99% likely to be a PSU problem.

Given that you Identified it as "700w PSU", make that 99.9% likely.

The PSU is probably top mounted in a low end case too, by my guess.

Please let me know your PSU maker/model as well as your case maker/model so I can confirm.

Case is a CoolerMaster HAF 912, power supply is Colors IT (CiT) 700W

The case is a good one, but the PSU does still look like a bad one.

Do you have a different computer that you have access to that you could borrow a PSU from for testing things? Specifically that you can steal a PSU from for a while?

I only have another spare one but its 500W   I didnt feel like spending 70 pound on a PSU when this one cost me like 35... I dont get how it cant handle it if its being advertised as 700W?

Its a marketing strategy, whats more important is the quality of the components used and the amps on each rail.

How can i check the amps on each rail?

Should be written on the PSU's lable. The box it came with may also have it listed.

The testing environment matters a great deal. If you test in Antarctica a PSU will be able to deliver very much more wattage than if you test in the Sahara Desert.

As near as I can tell, there is no "standard" environment for testing, which means the wattage on the label pretty much means nothing.

The number and quality of the internal components is indeed all that matters and you can't see that written anywhere on the box.

All you have is the brand name to go by which is why everyone here is very brand conscious when it comes to PSUs.

Nobody here ever suggests it is a good idea for somebody to buy a PSU that is $1 per 20w. All quality PSUs should be much closer to $1 per 10w, instead.

As with most things, you get what you pay for.

If you pay $20 for a PSU, expect it to only deliver 200w, regardless what it says on the label.

You say your PSU costs about $35, so it probably does about 350, and that is with normal temps, with high temperatures which would likely occur during intense gaming then that 350 would be reduced further.

The lines probably start showing up about the time that 350w gets reduced by heat and stuff below the actual wattage your parts are pulling from it.

I wouldn't spend too much time looking at the wattage on the label. If you can't trust the brand, then you pretty much can't trust whatever is on the label, either.

Try your 500w instead. It may be that the 500w is of a better brand (especially if it costed $50) and it might work just fine.

Right dude, so you definately think its the PSU? If this is the case, I'll get a refund. Could you possibly give me a bit of advice on the Corsair 800W Gamer Series (GS800)? Would this work okay for the Asus GeForce GTX 560 Ti DirectCuII TOP graphics card, i7 2600k SandyBridge Quad-Core 3.4GHz, 1TB HDD, etc?

I generally like to get positive testing results before I declare a solid root cause, but I do indeed highly suspect it is a PSU issue.

Here is a solid review for the GS800 from a source that knows how to evaluate PSUs and has the proper testing equipment:

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Corsair-GS800-Po...

I suggest you read it thoroughly so you have a good idea what is involved with the performance of the unit before you think about buying it.

I have looked at reviews from this website enough times that I usually just jump to page 7 when I want to see the results.

The GS800 indeed will do the whole 800w it says it will, and it can even be used for up to 1000w, but the efficiency will be very bad if you try it. The charts show mostly pretty clean power delivery too. Far better than, say, the Thermaltake TR2 RX 750w charts are.

This PSU should probably cost multiple times more than the one you have now, but you will get what you pay for if you buy it.

The GS800 would be able to easily handle any conceivable 1 video card setup.

Okay, this might sound really stupid but the graphics card comes with 2 x molex to pci express adapters, like the ones here http://forum.tt-hardware.com/fichiers/uploads/upload_16...

One of the adapters I have connected both molex from the PSU to the adapter, to the graphics card. So PSU > 2 x molex > pcie into graphics card

The other adapter i have only connected ONE of the molex into it, as i used the other molex for an adapter to connect the front USB ports.. I couldnt find space to do this any other way, I get the feeling this could be the reason for a lack of power to the graphics card?

Try it.

Just unplug the front USB ports and don't use them while you test if that makes the video card work.

You should be able to get away without using the front USB for a few min just to see if it works.

Still same guys, ordered a new PSU yesterday using free trial of Amazon Prime, came today at 9:45am, really reccomend it to be honest, month trials available at the moment on checkout.

Anyways I ordered 750W Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750, supposed to be one of the best PSU's there is at that wattage so im hoping itll work!

Thanks all for your help

Just wondering, is that a 750w TX V2, or just a TX?

Also, what are you basing the statement on that it is one of the best PSUs at that wattage? Not that I intend to contradict the statement, but I am genuinely interested to know where you got the information from.