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Possible to convert CPU heatsinks from LGA775 to LGA1155?

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May 29, 2012 6:19:57 PM

I've got a few good quality LGA775 CPU heatsinks that cost me a lot and was wondering if its possible to convert them easily to LGA1155 or 1156 or 1366?

And if not, do most manufacturers (Scythe, Thermaltake, Thermalright, Arctic Cooler, etc) provide hardware for older heatsinks that used to work with LGA775?
a b à CPUs
May 29, 2012 6:54:55 PM

Some do through diffrent version numbers like a hyper mega ultra v2 ect. tell us the exact cooler you have and we might be able to help a bit more.
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May 29, 2012 8:28:47 PM

Scythe Ninja: Have a couple of them. Another is a Thermalright IFX-14. Those would be a great start.
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February 20, 2013 7:27:18 PM

Hi there

It's perfectly possible to convert a push-pin type cooler from 775 to 1155. 1155 are only very so slightly larger format/base area than 775.

Remove all push-pins from holders - then take a small round section file and simply file away towards the extremity. Only a very small amount of material need be removed and the unit is good for 1155 and 775 afterwards - because this is exactly what the latest manufacturers of push-pin units are doing!!!

I've got some Golden Orb units that I'd like to use 775 to 1155. Any thoughts on how to convert them?

Happy filing

And don't forget to replace pins!!!

Too many systems to give details

Abuldozer
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February 27, 2013 2:01:19 AM

Happy filing....good one! :) 

> And don't forget to replace pins!!!

What pins are you referring to? You mean the plastic anchoring pins? I just use nuts and bolts with soft washers but not tightened too much. Its really time cases had some sort of support system for these humongous heatsinks. They should be supported with a diagonal bar (3 would be perfect) from their top to the board. And the mounting points should go through the board to a backplate. In fact there should be nothing heavy anchored to the board. Everything should be anchored to a backplate the same size as the motherboard. With supports under the ram slots so it doesn't bend every time you install a ram stick.
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February 27, 2013 8:29:03 PM

In general terms I support your gripe re: HSF mounting systems. It's certainly about time more consideration was given to these matters! Just a point about substituting push pins with nut and bolts. As you state - care has to be taken especially wrt the distance beneath the 'stands' (or feet) of the HSF such that over tightening doesn't occur: because, I recently overtightened a Golden Orb down onto a board (no particular reason why) but the result was a flickering green mobo LED - possibly indicating a short of the 5v circuit and consequent failure of the board to boot. Once the Orb was removed and just 'laid' onto the CPU then the green LED remained stable and the board booted.

I thus concluded an overtightened HSF!

I've already ordered up some backing plates for these Orbs (which I still wish to use) and await their arrival (from China) as well as the outcome of the modification!

Happy bolting!
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February 28, 2013 12:22:04 AM

That's very good advice regarding tightening. I'm kind of a clod sometimes and I've already scratched the board a bit so I don't even know if it still works. I need to source out extra soft washers. Maybe a sort of vinyl composition would be a good compromise. On my other board using a Scythe Ninja (granted not an extremely heavy heatsink) I just used the plastic type reddish colored washers that came with the board that people use to mount the board to the case. Just was thinking about this and realized that if the motherboard is horizontal you don't need to tighten very much at all. Its only when its vertical where a lot more pressure is going to be on the top than the bottom does it need to be really anchored down to the CPU.
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February 28, 2013 9:31:07 AM

I had a vain idea to drill thru the existing 1155 HSF holes in order to enlarge them enough to take the smaller based 775 HSF. On closer inspection of the board I noted that the BUS went so closely by the push-pin hole that severe damage would be done if I followed my plan. Even closer inspection revealed that the BUS is so close to the surface that anything other than the merest - mildest scratch, could easily (and permanently) damage the boards function.

Conclusion: don't go there!

I was under the impression the reddish washers were of a fibre construction. I was using this type of washer when my board (albeit temporarily) failed! My feeling was that they may not spread the 'tightening' pressure adequately - allowing pin-point pressure to occur - which may (and I stress 'may') have been the cause the of the original short. I'll wait for the backing plates before tightening anything down on these boards, again!

When testing (board, CPU, an other) I use a horizontal set up and simply lay a Golden Orb atop of the CPU: this works a treat at ordinary temps/output - keeping the CPU perfectly cool. The Golden Orb is an inherently neat unit to use for this type of testing (I've got several of them - can be picked up real cheap right now). However, I'd always ensure the CPU is properly secured to the board - for ordinary and long term use - because there's always the possibility of moving the case or 'jogging' it's content which could easily dislodge the HSF if unsecured.

I prefer to have horizontal style set-ups as this reduces HSF stress on the mobo (some of those very tall HSFs - when placed horizontally to the mobo - must apply enormous stress to the board) but such (horizontal) computer cases are also usually not very high - which causes a restriction to the height of the usable HSF (which is why I like the Orb!). I also permanently use a vertical style case (which does have the HSF head-height) horizontally!

Happy horizontality!
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February 28, 2013 9:00:38 PM

Heatsinks (the large ones at least) really need some sort of support. It would take so much stress off the motherboard. Hopefully in the future this will be implemented. A case with dimensions of just the motherboard's length and width might be very practical. That would keep the motherboard horizontal (ideal) and you could add levels for all your other components like the power supply, 5.25" devices like your DVD burner, with 3.5" and 2.5" adapters for hard drives, fan controller, even a router and cable/DSL modem. And if they were using a Micro-ATX it could have a smaller footprint of course.
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