Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

CPU Upgrade help

Last response: in CPUs
Share
May 30, 2012 12:48:12 AM

New to the website and sick of Google not telling me what I want to hear. I Have a Pentium dual core e5500@2.80GHZ W/ 3.25 GB RAM. I Want to start upgrading my PC so I can edit in Sony Vegas faster and with less lag. What I want to know is what I can upgrade too that will make a difference.

Also, I have a 32 bit Windows XP OS and was wondering if I should wait and upgrade to windows 7 64 bit... I Have no experience with computers so please show some leniency. Thanks for your time and possible help.

More about : cpu upgrade

a b à CPUs
May 30, 2012 1:13:52 AM

You probably want an LGA 775 quad core Intel processor.

The QX9770 is about the best the slot can possibly hold, but you would have to check whether your motherboard can support a 136w processor or not. That would also be the most expensive option.

A Q9650 would also fit the LGA 775 slot and its only a 95w processor so its much more likely the motherboard is capable of running it. It is less expensive than the QX9770, but probably easier to find.

The Q9650 isn't a lot faster in clock speeds than your current one (3.0 GHZ), but the 2 extra cores should be picked up by Sony Vegas and used to very good effect.

The Q9950 would be another option that would be 2.83 ghz per core but with 4 cores. It would have most of the benefit of the 9650 because of the extra cores, but for anything that can only use 2 cores it would be no better than what you have now.

Windows 7 64 bit vs XP 32 bit... I made the switch some time ago and kinda wish I had done so sooner. I am usually one of the slowest to pick up a new OS, because it allows me to skip the worthless OSs like Windows ME and Vista, but for the really good ones like Windows 7 it slows down my adopting a really good OS too.

If you go on Microsoft's website, you should be able to download something called a Windows 7 Compatibility Checker or something that will tell you if your computer will be able to use Windows 7 and if it can there is no good reason why you shouldn't do it.

Being the owner of an XP 32 bit OS, you qualify for a Windows 7 Retail Upgrade CD like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Note that the one you want doesn't say OEM anywhere on it. The OEM CDs cost the same as retail upgrade CDs if you qualify for it, but the license agreement of the retail upgrade CDs is much much better. Indeed the OEM CDs are illegal for anyone who wants to buy it and install it on a computer for their own use.

If you need to use Windows 95 or 98 programs (16 bit), you won't be able to do it with the Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit OS. You would need to get the Windows 7 Professional 64 bit OS because it has an XP compatibility mode and XP is capable of using 16 bit programs. It would probably be $10 or $20 more for a Professional upgrade CD as compared to a Home Premium upgrade CD.

If you don't need to use anything from the Windows 95/98 days, then Home Premium 64 would do just fine.

If you DO need to use something that old, I would suggest you look for a better alternative anyway, because supporting stuff that old is more trouble than its worth.

Anyway, upgrading from XP to 7 isn't that hard or anything and we can walk you through it if you think it is something you are interested in after you internalize the above points.
m
0
l
May 30, 2012 3:13:44 AM

Raiddinn said:
You probably want an LGA 775 quad core Intel processor.

The QX9770 is about the best the slot can possibly hold, but you would have to check whether your motherboard can support a 136w processor or not. That would also be the most expensive option.

A Q9650 would also fit the LGA 775 slot and its only a 95w processor so its much more likely the motherboard is capable of running it. It is less expensive than the QX9770, but probably easier to find.

The Q9650 isn't a lot faster in clock speeds than your current one (3.0 GHZ), but the 2 extra cores should be picked up by Sony Vegas and used to very good effect.

The Q9950 would be another option that would be 2.83 ghz per core but with 4 cores. It would have most of the benefit of the 9650 because of the extra cores, but for anything that can only use 2 cores it would be no better than what you have now.

Windows 7 64 bit vs XP 32 bit... I made the switch some time ago and kinda wish I had done so sooner. I am usually one of the slowest to pick up a new OS, because it allows me to skip the worthless OSs like Windows ME and Vista, but for the really good ones like Windows 7 it slows down my adopting a really good OS too.

If you go on Microsoft's website, you should be able to download something called a Windows 7 Compatibility Checker or something that will tell you if your computer will be able to use Windows 7 and if it can there is no good reason why you shouldn't do it.

Being the owner of an XP 32 bit OS, you qualify for a Windows 7 Retail Upgrade CD like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Note that the one you want doesn't say OEM anywhere on it. The OEM CDs cost the same as retail upgrade CDs if you qualify for it, but the license agreement of the retail upgrade CDs is much much better. Indeed the OEM CDs are illegal for anyone who wants to buy it and install it on a computer for their own use.

If you need to use Windows 95 or 98 programs (16 bit), you won't be able to do it with the Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit OS. You would need to get the Windows 7 Professional 64 bit OS because it has an XP compatibility mode and XP is capable of using 16 bit programs. It would probably be $10 or $20 more for a Professional upgrade CD as compared to a Home Premium upgrade CD.

If you don't need to use anything from the Windows 95/98 days, then Home Premium 64 would do just fine.

If you DO need to use something that old, I would suggest you look for a better alternative anyway, because supporting stuff that old is more trouble than its worth.

Anyway, upgrading from XP to 7 isn't that hard or anything and we can walk you through it if you think it is something you are interested in after you internalize the above points.


In all honesty I did not think someone would reply to my thread or share any advice to what I was inquiring about. I was wrong. I will look into what you made mention on the topic and return when I need further assistance. Thank you for you time and advice on the matter and am glad to see people people helping others. Take care :hello:  :hello: 
m
0
l
Related resources
a b à CPUs
May 30, 2012 4:00:03 AM

I don't know how other support staff people choose topics to comment on, but I usually choose based on what has 0 replies so far.

Anyway, I think we usually manage to get most people's questions covered most of the time.

I will keep an eye out for further responses in here and do what I can to answer anything else that comes up.
m
0
l
May 30, 2012 6:28:01 PM

Raiddinn said:
I don't know how other support staff people choose topics to comment on, but I usually choose based on what has 0 replies so far.

Anyway, I think we usually manage to get most people's questions covered most of the time.

I will keep an eye out for further responses in here and do what I can to answer anything else that comes up.


I took so time and talked with some buddies of mine that has some computer knowledge. Here is what I am planning on doing so give any advice you have with what I am gonna do. Instead of wasting money on a processor for a junk MB, I plan to do this...

Upgrade to these components


Gigabyte Z68A-D3H-B3 Intel Z68 Motherboard - ATX, Socket H2 (LGA1155), Intel Z68 Express, 2133MHz DDR3, SATA 6.0 Gb/s, RAID, 7.1-CH Audio, Intel HD Graphics, Gigabit LAN, SuperSpeed USB 3.0


Intel Core i5-2500 BX80623I52500 Processor - Quad Core, 6MB L3 Cache, 1MB L2 Cache, 3.30 GHz (3.70 GHz Max Turbo), Socket H2 (LGA1155), 95W, Fan, Retail

Then install the parts, run easy windows transfer to a external hard-drive. run windows 7 setup and then after use the windows transfer data to re update windows 7 with old files and account and that should be it. Let me know what you think about this. thanks for your time.
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
May 30, 2012 9:28:46 PM

I am not familiar with the tool that microsoft has that moves user information from one computer (or install) to another. I have always done that manually or not at all, so I don't have any advise for you on that front.

However, I do want to make a few comments about the parts choices.

Firstly, I didn't see RAM mentioned, but I just wanted to point out that the old RAM probably won't work with the new core.

If you do have to get new RAM, 2133 RAM is probably not appropriate for what you are looking to do. If you spend most of the time you are on the computer using Winzip then it may be worth it, but most other programs can't use much if any of the additional capability between 1333/1600 and 2133.

Literally, in most games you won't even get 1 FPS more from using 2133 RAM instead of 1333 RAM. Most other programs are sorta the same.

RAM is just almost never somebody's bottleneck in their computer, so increasing capacity in that area is usually not going to increase overall performance.

Personally, I swear by 1333 RAM, but a lot of other people swear by 1600 RAM instead. The 1600 RAM is only a couple bucks more than the 1333 RAM so it mostly doesn't matter which one you choose in that regard. It isn't like if you go with 1600 RAM that you would be flushing huge amounts of money down the toilet.

However, if you go with 2133 RAM you almost certainly be doing so.

Secondly, the RAM maker matters. RAM is one of the top causes of problems with brand new systems (which this kinda is, after a full core replacement).

Plain and simply, you should try to minimize the chances of your having RAM problems straight out of the box. The two RAM makers with the absolute lowest failure rates are Crucial and Kingston. The others aren't even close. The 3rd place averages 3x more failures and the 4th place is 5x more failures on average.

Whatever RAM you get, I would suggest it be from either Crucial or Kingston. I suggest everybody get CT2KIT51264BA1339 RAM and I have never heard of one person saying they had any problem with them. The Kingston HyperX Blue RAM does really well too. It is hard to go wrong with those two makers, but the more aggressive your RAM speed the more likely you are to have problems.

Anyway, as for the motherboard, the Gigabyte Z68s are great choices. Top of the line even. There may not be better when you look at length of track records, failure rates, price, and other factors together. I can't fault going that route.

Processor - The 2500 is a rock solid processor, however, you may want to bump it up to a 2500k for probably about $20 more or bump it down to a 2400 for probably $40 or $50 less.

For those who don't care to bother with things and they just want to have a good and fast system, the 2400 is only a tiny step down from the 2500 (low single digits % difference) in tasks, but it is a pretty good cost reduction most of the time.

For those who want to get the most out of the computer and who want to extend the lives of their processors the most, the K series processors are really good. You can add 20 - 33% power to them without too much effort and with an investment in a good CPU cooler of maybe $30 you can bump that up to closer to 50% increase.

That would let you "keep up" with another generation or two in processing power without you having to upgrade in the middle. Essentially, it could be two processors for the price of one if you are willing to sit there and tinker and learn the game.

Mind you, its not like the 2500 is going to be obsolete any time soon or anything. Probably 98% of the processors in use today are worse than that so it will be a while before the 2500 gets well below average.

Still, everyone here suggests the 2400 or the 2500k rather than the basic 2500 and it is for good reason. Usually one of the other will be more appropriate for most people who are considering the 2500.

Also, I just wanted to throw it out there that if you do the transfer to the external drive stuff you mentioned, I would highly suggest you disconnect that drive from the computer during the install and plug it in only after you get everything how you want it in the new computer. After all the programs and things are installed and all the updates taken care of, then absolutely last I would do the transfer back.
m
0
l
!