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Issue with CPU/Heatsink.

Last response: in Components
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May 31, 2012 2:41:09 AM

Little did I know that the AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black edition stock Heatsink is CoolerMaster >.>
Anyways, I am trying to fix this fasle CPU Fan Failing. Everytime I see those message I checked the fan and it was running perfectly normal, the fan RPM is going normal as I checked the System Bios at start-up. I just upgraded my PC to a whole new level from AMD RADEON HD 4XXX to 7XXX Series, and Dual AMD Processor to Quad-cre 965 BE 3.4 GHz. everything went fine till something that causes the fan to fail which I believes the mobo is trying to tell me something. I just upgraded it a week ago, going fine till then. So what I am considering is, I shall RMA both Graphic and CPU, and have them replace it. As for graphic, I am seeing some screen pixel flickering around the screen (To make this easier for you to understand I uploaded the video for you to look at)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBGoEHLsTN4

So yeah both gave me an issues since I bought em.

My computer info if you'd like to look thru, here it is.

------------------
System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 5/30/2012, 22:28:04
Machine name: XXXX-PC
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.120330-1504)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd.
System Model: GA-MA770T-UD3P
BIOS: Award Modular BIOS v6.00PG
Processor: AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 965 Processor (4 CPUs), ~3.4GHz
Memory: 4096MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 4094MB RAM
Page File: 2592MB used, 5592MB available
Windows Dir: C:\Windows
DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 64bit Unicode

------------
DxDiag Notes
------------
Display Tab 1: No problems found.
Sound Tab 1: No problems found.
Input Tab: No problems found.

--------------------
DirectX Debug Levels
--------------------
Direct3D: 0/4 (retail)
DirectDraw: 0/4 (retail)
DirectInput: 0/5 (retail)
DirectMusic: 0/5 (retail)
DirectPlay: 0/9 (retail)
DirectSound: 0/5 (retail)
DirectShow: 0/6 (retail)

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name: AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series
Manufacturer: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.
Chip type: ATI display adapter (0x6819)
DAC type: Internal DAC(400MHz)
Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_6819&SUBSYS_23201787&REV_00
Display Memory: 3819 MB
Dedicated Memory: 2029 MB
Shared Memory: 1790 MB
Current Mode: 1600 x 900 (32 bit) (60Hz)
Monitor Name: <Edited> LG FLATRON
Monitor Model: W2061
Monitor Id: GSM4EA2
Native Mode: 1600 x 900(p) (60.000Hz)
Output Type: DVI
Driver Name: aticfx64.dll,aticfx64.dll,aticfx64.dll,aticfx32,aticfx32,aticfx32,atiumd64.dll,atidxx64.dll,atidxx64.dll,atiumdag,atidxx32,atidxx32,atiumdva,atiumd6a.cap,atitmm64.dll
Driver File Version: 8.17.0010.1124 (English)
Driver Version: 8.961.0.0
DDI Version: 11
Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 4/5/2012 22:20:04, 1067520 bytes
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
WHQL Date Stamp:
Device Identifier: {D7B71EE2-2B59-11CF-5370-2A03BEC2C535}
Vendor ID: 0x1002
Device ID: 0x6819
SubSys ID: 0x23201787
Revision ID: 0x0000
Driver Strong Name: oem1.inf:ATI.Mfg.NTamd64.6.1:ati2mtag_R575B:8.961.0.0:p ci\ven_1002&dev_6819
Rank Of Driver: 00E62001
Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_C ModeVC1_C ModeWMV9_C
Deinterlace Caps: {6E8329FF-B642-418B-BCF0-BCB6591E255F}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{6E8329FF-B642-418B-BCF0-BCB6591E255F}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(UYVY,UYVY) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(YV12,0x32315659) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{3C5323C1-6FB7-44F5-9081-056BF2EE449D}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,2) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{552C0DAD-CCBC-420B-83C8-74943CF9F1A6}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,2) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{6E8329FF-B642-418B-BCF0-BCB6591E255F}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
{335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC1,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC2,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC3,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(IMC4,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S340,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
{5A54A0C9-C7EC-4BD9-8EDE-F3C75DC4393B}: Format(In/Out)=(S342,UNKNOWN) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=
D3D9 Overlay: Not Supported
DXVA-HD: Not Supported
DDraw Status: Enabled
D3D Status: Enabled
AGP Status: Enabled

-------------
Sound Devices
-------------
Description: Realtek Digital Output (2- Realtek High Definition Audio)
Default Sound Playback: Yes
Default Voice Playback: Yes
Hardware ID: HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_0888&SUBSYS_1458A002&REV_1000
Manufacturer ID: 1
Product ID: 100
Type: WDM
Driver Name: RTKVHD64.sys
Driver Version: 6.00.0001.5919 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
WHQL Logo'd: Yes
Date and Size: 8/18/2009 05:29:16, 1983264 bytes
Other Files:
Driver Provider: Realtek Semiconductor Corp.
HW Accel Level: Basic
Cap Flags: 0xF1F
Min/Max Sample Rate: 100, 200000
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 1, 0
Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
HW Memory: 0
Voice Management: No
EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No

---------------------
Sound Capture Devices
---------------------
Description: Realtek Digital Input (2- Realtek High Definition Audio)
Default Sound Capture: Yes
Default Voice Capture: Yes
Driver Name: RTKVHD64.sys
Driver Version: 6.00.0001.5919 (English)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Date and Size: 8/18/2009 05:29:16, 1983264 bytes
Cap Flags: 0x1
Format Flags: 0xFFFFF

-------------------
DirectInput Devices
-------------------
Device Name: Mouse
Attached: 1
Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
FF Driver: n/a

Device Name: Keyboard
Attached: 1
Controller ID: n/a
Vendor/Product ID: n/a
FF Driver: n/a

Poll w/ Interrupt: No

-----------
USB Devices
-----------
+ USB Root Hub
| Vendor/Product ID: 0x1002, 0x4398
| Matching Device ID: usb\root_hub
| Service: usbhub
| Driver: usbhub.sys, 3/24/2011 23:29:26, 343040 bytes
| Driver: usbd.sys, 3/24/2011 23:28:59, 7936 bytes

----------------
Gameport Devices
----------------

------------
PS/2 Devices
------------
+ HID Keyboard Device
| Vendor/Product ID: 0x046D, 0xC315
| Matching Device ID: hid_device_system_keyboard
| Service: kbdhid
| Driver: kbdhid.sys, 11/20/2010 06:33:25, 33280 bytes
| Driver: kbdclass.sys, 7/13/2009 21:48:04, 50768 bytes
|
+ Terminal Server Keyboard Driver
| Matching Device ID: root\rdp_kbd
| Upper Filters: kbdclass
| Service: TermDD
| Driver: i8042prt.sys, 7/13/2009 19:19:57, 105472 bytes
| Driver: kbdclass.sys, 7/13/2009 21:48:04, 50768 bytes
|
+ HID-compliant mouse
| Vendor/Product ID: 0x046D, 0xC062
| Matching Device ID: hid_device_system_mouse
| Service: mouhid
| Driver: mouhid.sys, 7/13/2009 20:00:20, 31232 bytes
| Driver: mouclass.sys, 7/13/2009 21:48:27, 49216 bytes
|
+ Terminal Server Mouse Driver
| Matching Device ID: root\rdp_mou
| Upper Filters: mouclass
| Service: TermDD
| Driver: termdd.sys, 11/20/2010 09:33:57, 63360 bytes
| Driver: sermouse.sys, 7/13/2009 20:00:20, 26624 bytes
| Driver: mouclass.sys, 7/13/2009 21:48:27, 49216 bytes

------------------------
Disk & DVD/CD-ROM Drives
------------------------
Drive: C:
Free Space: 224.5 GB
Total Space: 305.1 GB
File System: NTFS
Model: WDC WD3200AAKS-00L9A0 ATA Device

Drive: D:
Free Space: 0.1 GB
Total Space: 0.1 GB
File System: NTFS
Model: WDC WD3200AAKS-00L9A0 ATA Device

Drive: E:
Model: TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-S223C ATA Device
Driver: c:\windows\system32\drivers\cdrom.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 05:19:21, 147456 bytes

--------------
System Devices
--------------
Name: PCI standard host CPU bridge
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_1200&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&C0
Driver: n/a

Name: Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4399&SUBSYS_50041458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&A5
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbohci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:04, 25600 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:14, 325120 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:26, 343040 bytes

Name: ATI I/O Communications Processor SMBus Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4385&SUBSYS_43851458&REV_3C\3&18D45AA6&0&A0
Driver: n/a

Name: High Definition Audio Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_AAB0&SUBSYS_AAB01787&REV_00\4&2B98F9DC&0&0110
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\hdaudbus.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 06:43:43, 122368 bytes

Name: Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4398&SUBSYS_50041458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&99
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbohci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:04, 25600 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:14, 325120 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:26, 343040 bytes

Name: ATI I/O Communications Processor PCI Bus Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4384&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&A4
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 09:33:48, 184704 bytes

Name: Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_10EC&DEV_8168&SUBSYS_E0001458&REV_02\4&88E5031&0&0050
Driver: n/a

Name: AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_6819&SUBSYS_23201787&REV_00\4&2B98F9DC&0&0010
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\atikmdag.sys, 8.01.0001.1243 (English), 4/6/2012 01:22:40, 11174400 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\ati2erec.dll, 1.00.0000.0024 (English), 4/5/2012 21:09:02, 53248 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\atikmpag.sys, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:10:44, 343040 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiumd64.dll, 7.14.0010.0903 (English), 4/5/2012 21:23:24, 7431680 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiumd6a.dll, 8.14.0010.0355 (English), 4/5/2012 21:34:34, 4731904 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atitmm64.dll, 6.14.0011.0023 (English), 4/5/2012 22:14:44, 120320 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiicdxx.dat, 1/10/2012 17:10:08, 601728 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\amdpcom64.dll, 8.14.0010.0023 (English), 4/5/2012 21:06:08, 54784 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atimpc64.dll, 8.14.0010.0023 (English), 4/5/2012 21:06:08, 54784 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiadlxx.dll, 6.14.0010.1100 (English), 4/5/2012 21:11:28, 514560 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiumd6a.cap, 4/5/2012 21:29:34, 2631008 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atimuixx.dll, 6.14.0010.1002 (English), 4/5/2012 22:14:30, 21504 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiapfxx.exe, 6.14.0010.1001 (English), 4/5/2012 22:22:00, 159744 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiapfxx.blb, 4/5/2012 22:23:06, 245896 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiumd6v.dll, 7.14.0010.0184 (English), 4/5/2012 21:35:24, 1120768 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\ativvsva.dat, 4/5/2012 21:29:34, 157144 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\ativvsvl.dat, 4/5/2012 21:29:34, 204952 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiesrxx.exe, 6.14.0011.1120 (English), 4/5/2012 22:16:02, 236544 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atieclxx.exe, 6.14.0011.1120 (English), 4/5/2012 22:16:46, 503808 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiedu64.dll, 6.14.0010.2514 (English), 4/5/2012 22:14:26, 59392 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\ATIDEMGX.dll, 2.00.4478.38306 (English), 4/5/2012 22:16:52, 442368 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atio6axx.dll, 6.14.0010.11631 (English), 4/5/2012 22:10:50, 26181632 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\aticaldd64.dll, 6.14.0010.1720 (English), 4/5/2012 21:29:54, 16090624 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\aticalrt64.dll, 6.14.0010.1720 (English), 4/5/2012 21:30:16, 51200 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\aticalcl64.dll, 6.14.0010.1720 (English), 4/5/2012 21:30:08, 44544 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atipblag.dat, 9/12/2011 18:06:16, 3917 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiu9p64.dll, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:09:42, 44544 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiuxp64.dll, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:09:56, 54784 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atig6pxx.dll, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:11:06, 17408 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atig6txx.dll, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:11:00, 41984 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atibtmon.exe, 2.00.0000.0000 (English), 5/11/2009 17:35:28, 118784 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atidxx64.dll, 8.17.0010.0432 (English), 4/5/2012 21:54:46, 7479296 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atiumdag.dll, 7.14.0010.0903 (English), 4/5/2012 21:34:04, 6203392 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atiumdva.dll, 8.14.0010.0355 (English), 4/5/2012 21:22:54, 4795904 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\amdpcom32.dll, 8.14.0010.0023 (English), 4/5/2012 21:06:04, 53760 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atimpc32.dll, 8.14.0010.0023 (English), 4/5/2012 21:06:04, 53760 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atiadlxy.dll, 6.14.0010.1100 (English), 4/5/2012 21:11:20, 360448 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atiumdva.cap, 4/5/2012 21:21:42, 2664704 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atiumdmv.dll, 7.14.0010.0184 (English), 4/5/2012 21:34:50, 1831424 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atiapfxx.blb, 4/5/2012 22:23:06, 245896 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\ativvsva.dat, 4/5/2012 21:29:34, 157144 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\ativvsvl.dat, 4/5/2012 21:29:34, 204952 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\ati2edxx.dll, 6.14.0010.2514 (English), 4/5/2012 22:14:20, 43520 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atioglxx.dll, 6.14.0010.11631 (English), 4/5/2012 21:50:56, 19753984 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atidxx32.dll, 8.17.0010.0432 (English), 4/5/2012 22:13:42, 6800896 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\aticaldd.dll, 6.14.0010.1720 (English), 4/5/2012 21:25:30, 13764096 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\aticalrt.dll, 6.14.0010.1720 (English), 4/5/2012 21:30:14, 46080 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\aticalcl.dll, 6.14.0010.1720 (English), 4/5/2012 21:30:06, 44032 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atipblag.dat, 9/12/2011 18:06:16, 3917 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atiu9pag.dll, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:09:34, 32256 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atiuxpag.dll, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:09:48, 41984 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atigktxx.dll, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:10:52, 33280 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\atiglpxx.dll, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:11:04, 14848 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\atiogl.xml, 3/5/2012 18:15:04, 38159 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\ATIODCLI.exe, 1.00.0000.0001 (English), 6/22/2009 11:34:36, 51200 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\ATIODE.exe, 1.00.0000.0001 (English), 8/27/2010 14:33:08, 332800 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atisamu64.dll, 7.01.0000.0001 (English), 4/5/2012 21:16:48, 72704 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\amdave64.dll, 2.00.0002.0000 (English), 4/5/2012 21:17:04, 71680 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\amdave32.dll, 2.00.0002.0000 (English), 4/5/2012 21:16:58, 72704 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\atisamu32.dll, 7.01.0000.0001 (English), 4/5/2012 21:16:42, 67584 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\atiglpxx.dll, 8.14.0001.6261 (English), 4/5/2012 21:11:04, 14848 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\aticfx64.dll, 8.17.0010.1124 (English), 4/5/2012 22:20:04, 1067520 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\SysWOW64\aticfx32.dll, 8.17.0010.1124 (English), 4/5/2012 22:21:52, 909312 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\coinst.dll, 1.00.0003.0005 (English), 4/5/2012 22:00:10, 64000 bytes

Name: Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4398&SUBSYS_50041458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&91
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbohci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:04, 25600 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:14, 325120 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:26, 343040 bytes

Name: Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_104C&DEV_8024&SUBSYS_10001458&REV_00\4&35E69562&0&70A4
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\1394ohci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 06:44:56, 229888 bytes

Name: PCI standard PCI-to-PCI bridge
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_597F&SUBSYS_59571002&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&50
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 09:33:48, 184704 bytes

Name: Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4397&SUBSYS_50041458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&98
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbohci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:04, 25600 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:14, 325120 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:26, 343040 bytes

Name: High Definition Audio Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4383&SUBSYS_A0021458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&A2
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\hdaudbus.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 06:43:43, 122368 bytes

Name: PCI standard host CPU bridge
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_1204&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&C4
Driver: n/a

Name: PCI standard PCI-to-PCI bridge
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_5978&SUBSYS_59571002&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&10
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pci.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 09:33:48, 184704 bytes

Name: Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4397&SUBSYS_50041458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&90
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbohci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:04, 25600 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:14, 325120 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:26, 343040 bytes

Name: PCI standard host CPU bridge
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_1203&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&C3
Driver: n/a

Name: PCI standard host CPU bridge
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_5957&SUBSYS_59571002&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&00
Driver: n/a

Name: Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4396&SUBSYS_50041458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&9A
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbehci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:04, 52736 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:14, 325120 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:26, 343040 bytes

Name: PCI standard host CPU bridge
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_1202&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&C2
Driver: n/a

Name: PCI standard ISA bridge
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_439D&SUBSYS_439D1002&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&A3
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\msisadrv.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/13/2009 21:48:27, 15424 bytes

Name: Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4396&SUBSYS_50041458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&92
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbehci.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:04, 52736 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:14, 325120 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\usbhub.sys, 6.01.7601.17586 (English), 3/24/2011 23:29:26, 343040 bytes

Name: PCI standard host CPU bridge
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_1201&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&C1
Driver: n/a

Name: Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_439C&SUBSYS_50021458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&A1
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciide.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/13/2009 21:45:45, 12352 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciidex.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/13/2009 21:45:46, 48720 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\atapi.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/13/2009 21:52:21, 24128 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\ataport.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 09:32:46, 155520 bytes

Name: Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Device ID: PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4390&SUBSYS_B0021458&REV_00\3&18D45AA6&0&88
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciide.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/13/2009 21:45:45, 12352 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\pciidex.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/13/2009 21:45:46, 48720 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\atapi.sys, 6.01.7600.16385 (English), 7/13/2009 21:52:21, 24128 bytes
Driver: C:\Windows\system32\DRIVERS\ataport.sys, 6.01.7601.17514 (English), 11/20/2010 09:32:46, 155520 bytes

------------------
DirectShow Filters
------------------

DirectShow Filters:
WMAudio Decoder DMO,0x00800800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMAPro over S/PDIF DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
WMSpeech Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOD.DLL,6.01.7601.17514
MP3 Decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,mp3dmod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4s Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp4sdecd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMV Screen decoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsdecd.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WMVideo Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,wmvdecod.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Mpeg43 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mp43decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
Mpeg4 Decoder DMO,0x00800001,1,1,mpg4decd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
DV Muxer,0x00400000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Color Space Converter,0x00400001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
WM ASF Reader,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
Screen Capture filter,0x00200000,0,1,wmpsrcwp.dll,12.00.7601.17514
AVI Splitter,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
VGA 16 Color Ditherer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
SBE2MediaTypeProfile,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Microsoft DTV-DVD Video Decoder,0x005fffff,2,4,msmpeg2vdec.dll,6.01.7140.0000
AC3 Parser Filter,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
StreamBufferSink,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Microsoft TV Captions Decoder,0x00200001,1,0,MSTVCapn.dll,6.01.7601.17715
MJPEG Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CBVA DMO wrapper filter,0x00200000,1,1,cbva.dll,6.01.7601.17514
MPEG-I Stream Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
SAMI (CC) Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514
ATI MPEG File Writer,0x00200000,1,0,atimpenc64.dll,12.04.0000.20405
ATI MPEG Video Decoder,0x005fffff,1,2,atimpenc64.dll,12.04.0000.20405
MPEG-2 Splitter,0x005fffff,1,0,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
Closed Captions Analysis Filter,0x00200000,2,5,cca.dll,6.06.7601.17514
SBE2FileScan,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Microsoft MPEG-2 Video Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
Internal Script Command Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG Audio Decoder,0x03680001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DV Splitter,0x00600000,1,2,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Video Mixing Renderer 9,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft MPEG-2 Encoder,0x00200000,2,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
ATI MPEG Audio Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,atimpenc64.dll,12.04.0000.20405
AMD MJPEG Decoder,0x00800001,1,1,atimpenc64.dll,12.04.0000.20405
ACM Wrapper,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Video Renderer,0x00800001,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG-2 Video Stream Analyzer,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Line 21 Decoder,0x00600000,1,1,,
Video Port Manager,0x00600000,2,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Video Renderer,0x00400000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
ATI MPEG Video Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,atimpenc64.dll,12.04.0000.20405
ATI MPEG Multiplexer,0x00200000,2,1,atimpenc64.dll,12.04.0000.20405
VPS Decoder,0x00200000,0,0,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
WM ASF Writer,0x00400000,0,0,qasf.dll,12.00.7601.17514
VBI Surface Allocator,0x00600000,1,1,vbisurf.ax,6.01.7601.17514
File writer,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
iTV Data Sink,0x00600000,1,0,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
iTV Data Capture filter,0x00600000,1,1,itvdata.dll,6.06.7601.17514
ATI Video Scaler Filter,0x00200000,1,1,atimpenc64.dll,12.04.0000.20405
DVD Navigator,0x00200000,0,3,qdvd.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft TV Subtitles Decoder,0x00200001,1,0,MSTVCapn.dll,6.01.7601.17715
Overlay Mixer2,0x00200000,1,1,,
RDP DShow Redirection Filter,0xffffffff,1,0,DShowRdpFilter.dll,
Microsoft MPEG-2 Audio Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msmpeg2enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
WST Pager,0x00200000,1,1,WSTPager.ax,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Demultiplexer,0x00600000,1,1,mpg2splt.ax,6.06.7601.17528
DV Video Decoder,0x00800000,1,1,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
SampleGrabber,0x00200000,1,1,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Null Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,qedit.dll,6.06.7601.17514
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x005fffff,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft AC3 Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,msac3enc.dll,6.01.7601.17514
StreamBufferSource,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
Smart Tee,0x00200000,1,2,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Overlay Mixer,0x00200000,0,0,,
AVI Decompressor,0x00600000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
NetBridge,0x00200000,2,0,netbridge.dll,6.01.7601.17514
AVI/WAV File Source,0x00400000,0,2,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Wave Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MIDI Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Multi-file Parser,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File stream renderer,0x00400000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
ATI Video Rotation Filter,0x00200000,1,1,atimpenc64.dll,12.04.0000.20405
Microsoft DTV-DVD Audio Decoder,0x005fffff,1,1,msmpeg2adec.dll,6.01.7140.0000
StreamBufferSink2,0x00200000,0,0,sbe.dll,6.06.7601.17528
AVI Mux,0x00200000,1,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Line 21 Decoder 2,0x00600002,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File Source (Async.),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
File Source (URL),0x00400000,0,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Media Center Extender Encryption Filter,0x00200000,2,2,Mcx2Filter.dll,6.01.7601.17514
AudioRecorder WAV Dest,0x00200000,0,0,WavDest.dll,
AudioRecorder Wave Form,0x00200000,0,0,WavDest.dll,
SoundRecorder Null Renderer,0x00200000,0,0,WavDest.dll,
Infinite Pin Tee Filter,0x00200000,1,1,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514
Enhanced Video Renderer,0x00200000,1,0,evr.dll,6.01.7601.17514
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00200000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG Video Decoder,0x40000001,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

WDM Streaming Tee/Splitter Devices:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink Converter,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Video Compressors:
WMVideo8 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvxencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
WMVideo9 Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvencod.dll,6.01.7600.16385
MSScreen 9 encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,wmvsencd.dll,6.01.7600.16385
DV Video Encoder,0x00200000,0,0,qdv.dll,6.06.7601.17514
MJPEG Compressor,0x00200000,0,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

Audio Compressors:
WM Speech Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMSPDMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
WMAudio Encoder DMO,0x00600800,1,1,WMADMOE.DLL,6.01.7600.16385
ATI MPEG Audio Encoder,0x00200000,1,1,atimpenc64.dll,12.04.0000.20405
IMA ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
PCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft ADPCM,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
GSM 6.10,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CCITT A-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
CCITT u-Law,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
MPEG Layer-3,0x00200000,1,1,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

Audio Capture Sources:
Realtek Digital Input (2- Realt,0x00200000,0,0,qcap.dll,6.06.7601.17514

PBDA CP Filters:
PBDA DTFilter,0x00600000,1,1,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA ETFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528
PBDA PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,CPFilters.dll,6.06.7601.17528

Midi Renderers:
Default MidiOut Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Microsoft GS Wavetable Synth,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

WDM Streaming Capture Devices:
Realtek HD Digital input,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
,0x00000000,0,0,,
,0x00000000,0,0,,
,0x00000000,0,0,,
,0x00000000,0,0,,

WDM Streaming Rendering Devices:
Realtek HDA HDMI Out,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Realtek HD Audio output,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514
Realtek HDA SPDIF Out,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

BDA Network Providers:
Microsoft ATSC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBC Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBS Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft DVBT Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSDvbNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514
Microsoft Network Provider,0x00200000,0,1,MSNP.ax,6.06.7601.17514

Multi-Instance Capable VBI Codecs:
VBI Codec,0x00600000,1,4,VBICodec.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA Transport Information Renderers:
BDA MPEG2 Transport Information Filter,0x00600000,2,0,psisrndr.ax,6.06.7601.17669
MPEG-2 Sections and Tables,0x00600000,1,0,Mpeg2Data.ax,6.06.7601.17514

BDA CP/CA Filters:
Decrypt/Tag,0x00600000,1,1,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
Encrypt/Tag,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
PTFilter,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708
XDS Codec,0x00200000,0,0,EncDec.dll,6.06.7601.17708

WDM Streaming Communication Transforms:
Tee/Sink-to-Sink Converter,0x00200000,1,1,ksproxy.ax,6.01.7601.17514

Audio Renderers:
Realtek Digital Output (2- Real,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Default DirectSound Device,0x00800000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
Default WaveOut Device,0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713
DirectSound: Realtek Digital Output (2- Realtek High Definition Audio),0x00200000,1,0,quartz.dll,6.06.7601.17713

---------------
EVR Power Information
---------------
Current Setting: {5C67A112-A4C9-483F-B4A7-1D473BECAFDC} (Quality)
Quality Flags: 2576
Enabled:
Force throttling
Allow half deinterlace
Allow scaling
Decode Power Usage: 100
Balanced Flags: 1424
Enabled:
Force throttling
Allow batching
Force half deinterlace
Force scaling
Decode Power Usage: 50
PowerFlags: 1424
Enabled:
Force throttling
Allow batching
Force half deinterlace
Force scaling
Decode Power Usage: 0


:pfff: 

More about : issue cpu heatsink

May 31, 2012 5:05:28 PM

Have you tried using another mother to see if the error message still pops out?

I heard several issues about this, you can check with your motherboard company to see if they can fix this error.
Score
0
May 31, 2012 9:15:09 PM

CM_USA said:
Have you tried using another mother to see if the error message still pops out?

I heard several issues about this, you can check with your motherboard company to see if they can fix this error.


My older video card and processor works fine. So I RMA'd the items and hopefully this will resolve the issues. If it still gives me trouble, I may have to buy a new brand motherboard, maybe going for Asus since they have a great solid build made for AMD I could try that (if I have no choice that is). About the processor, I'm getting an aftermarket cooler system. If the "CPU Fan Failure" message still occur then give me directions on how to fix this by words when talking to the Gigabyte company. Thanks in advance.
Score
0
Related resources
May 31, 2012 11:21:45 PM

What PSU and case are you using?

Also, are you sure you have the CPU fan plugged into the port labelled CPU_FAN on the motherboard?
Score
0
May 31, 2012 11:27:57 PM

Raiddinn said:
What PSU and case are you using?

Also, are you sure you have the CPU fan plugged into the port labelled CPU_FAN on the motherboard?



I jus bought new after market cooler so we will see, and as for PSU 700W Apevia SLI/Crossfire ready. It's a good PSU. So they aren't the causes last time I checked. I wouldn't ask if I haven't checked all of possible situations I can possibility think of, turned out I am out of options. So here I am on here asking for all of the situations you guys can think of. So yeah it's not the PSU. :(  I have made sure to replug and reseated everything even unplug the power.
Score
0
June 1, 2012 1:39:33 AM

What makes you sure that the Apevia 700w is a good PSU?

Just to let you know, you will probably have a tough time convincing people around here that the brand is a trustworthy one. Most around here would suggest you get a different one immediately upon hearing Apevia.

PSU problems can disguise themselves as problems with anything else and a PSU problem can be quite insidious and very difficult to rule out without trying a PSU that is known to be a rock solid good wattage PSU.

Also, which case do you have?

Did you make sure the CPU fan is plugged in the right port?
Score
0
June 1, 2012 1:52:29 AM

Raiddinn said:
What makes you sure that the Apevia 700w is a good PSU?

Just to let you know, you will probably have a tough time convincing people around here that the brand is a trustworthy one. Most around here would suggest you get a different one immediately upon hearing Apevia.

PSU problems can disguise themselves as problems with anything else and a PSU problem can be quite insidious and very difficult to rule out without trying a PSU that is known to be a rock solid good wattage PSU.

Also, which case do you have?

Did you make sure the CPU fan is plugged in the right port?



I made sure it's plugged the right ports. About the PSU, I am not saying its the best against anyone's decisions but for now we will see how things goes. For the PC case, it's cyber power, as it says on the front eh. If I'm right CAS; Apevia X-Cruiser Mid Tower case w/ side panel window and multimeter display silver color.
Score
0
June 1, 2012 2:19:18 PM

I am not sure that it is the problem now, but I want to explain a little bit about computer cooling and power so hopefully the same sort of situation doesn't come up again.

It may really have to do with power and cooling, though, because PSU problems often manifest as fan problems.

The first important thing to note is that the price of a PSU is a better proxy of how it really performs than a wattage label is. A reasonable estimate is that a PSU will give out about 10w per $1 in the base price.

The Apevia 700w is probably about $40 so it is probably more like a 400w PSU. Below is a link that I searched up quickly on Google Shopping that agrees:

http://tinyurl.com/6pampvn

Nextly, the temperature inside the PSU has a large impact on how much power a PSU can deliver to the components. The colder the PSU is inside, the more power it can deliver and the hotter it is inside the less power it can deliver.

Heat rises, so if a PSU is mounted at the top of the case, as it is in Apevia Cruiser cases, that means the heat from the whole computer naturally sits at the top of the case where the PSU is. This leads to high temperatures internal to the PSU.

The more you use such a PC, the hotter it would get up top, so even if such a computer could turn on, it could easily develop stability problems after a few hours or even minutes of use.

Heat rising to the top of the case and pooling there could mean the Apevia 400ishW (700 labeled) PSU might only be able to do 300w, 250w, or even 200w.

Additionally, PSUs degrade all the time in relation to the strain on them. Every day they perform some tiny bit worse than the day before. The more strain on the PSU, the larger that deterioration is.

The more expensive PSUs are less affected by heat but they have the exact same problems, they are in no way completely immune to it.

A good case will have the PSU mounted on the bottom which holds the PSU where all the cold air is.

The ideal setup is to have a high quality PSU bottom mounted.

Weaker setups are a high quality PSU up top and a bad case OR a low quality PSU that is bottom mounted.

The weakest setups are with low quality PSUs that are top mounted.

That last one is what Apevia is famous for and why they aren't well liked around here.

There is a way we can test whether the problem is related to the cooling/power setup, but it may have to wait if you have already RMAd your new parts.

What you would want to do is to take everything out of the case and just set the parts on a wooden table then turn it on and see what happens. With all the space in the world for heat to rise without going into the PSU, the way the PSU operates should not be greatly impacted by heat. Ideally, you would put the PSU as far away from the computer as possible in this test. Doing it under a ceiling fan or with a regular AC oscillating fan pointed at the parts would be good too.

You wouldn't have access to the power button during this test, so you would have to tap a small metal object lightly on the two pins on the motherboard that are labeled PWR_BTN, which performs the same function of linking the two together which will start the PC.

If things worked fine like that, then you would ideally want to replace either the case, the PSU, or ideally both with something of a higher quality.

The cooling/power being the root cause would be more likely if the same Apevia PSU were being used for the much less powerful parts before (time to degrade, and it is shown to work with lower requirements) and it only stopped working with the new parts that assumably have higher requirements being a quad core processor instead of a dual core and so on.

Anyway, I think you should investigate this as the next logical step in the troubleshooting process.
Score
0
June 1, 2012 6:09:30 PM

Raiddinn said:
I am not sure that it is the problem now, but I want to explain a little bit about computer cooling and power so hopefully the same sort of situation doesn't come up again.

It may really have to do with power and cooling, though, because PSU problems often manifest as fan problems.

The first important thing to note is that the price of a PSU is a better proxy of how it really performs than a wattage label is. A reasonable estimate is that a PSU will give out about 10w per $1 in the base price.

The Apevia 700w is probably about $40 so it is probably more like a 400w PSU. Below is a link that I searched up quickly on Google Shopping that agrees:

http://tinyurl.com/6pampvn

Nextly, the temperature inside the PSU has a large impact on how much power a PSU can deliver to the components. The colder the PSU is inside, the more power it can deliver and the hotter it is inside the less power it can deliver.

Heat rises, so if a PSU is mounted at the top of the case, as it is in Apevia Cruiser cases, that means the heat from the whole computer naturally sits at the top of the case where the PSU is. This leads to high temperatures internal to the PSU.

The more you use such a PC, the hotter it would get up top, so even if such a computer could turn on, it could easily develop stability problems after a few hours or even minutes of use.

Heat rising to the top of the case and pooling there could mean the Apevia 400ishW (700 labeled) PSU might only be able to do 300w, 250w, or even 200w.

Additionally, PSUs degrade all the time in relation to the strain on them. Every day they perform some tiny bit worse than the day before. The more strain on the PSU, the larger that deterioration is.

The more expensive PSUs are less affected by heat but they have the exact same problems, they are in no way completely immune to it.

A good case will have the PSU mounted on the bottom which holds the PSU where all the cold air is.

The ideal setup is to have a high quality PSU bottom mounted.

Weaker setups are a high quality PSU up top and a bad case OR a low quality PSU that is bottom mounted.

The weakest setups are with low quality PSUs that are top mounted.

That last one is what Apevia is famous for and why they aren't well liked around here.

There is a way we can test whether the problem is related to the cooling/power setup, but it may have to wait if you have already RMAd your new parts.

What you would want to do is to take everything out of the case and just set the parts on a wooden table then turn it on and see what happens. With all the space in the world for heat to rise without going into the PSU, the way the PSU operates should not be greatly impacted by heat. Ideally, you would put the PSU as far away from the computer as possible in this test. Doing it under a ceiling fan or with a regular AC oscillating fan pointed at the parts would be good too.

You wouldn't have access to the power button during this test, so you would have to tap a small metal object lightly on the two pins on the motherboard that are labeled PWR_BTN, which performs the same function of linking the two together which will start the PC.

If things worked fine like that, then you would ideally want to replace either the case, the PSU, or ideally both with something of a higher quality.

The cooling/power being the root cause would be more likely if the same Apevia PSU were being used for the much less powerful parts before (time to degrade, and it is shown to work with lower requirements) and it only stopped working with the new parts that assumably have higher requirements being a quad core processor instead of a dual core and so on.

Anyway, I think you should investigate this as the next logical step in the troubleshooting process.


Ok, I guess that's over my budget :-/ give me the recommendation of a good PSU you can give me I will have to buy it some how. And does the wires comes with the PSU if I bought it or I have to get myself some? Unless I can use the wires from what I currently have. Just not too expensive tho PSU. Budget friendly if you please.
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June 2, 2012 1:47:57 AM

Actually should I look for a better case that has bottom PSU location?
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Best solution

June 2, 2012 4:26:34 PM

Most people vastly overestimate how many watts they need to run their computer. Even most high end gaming computers top out under 500w unless they have multiple video cards or are massively OCing things.

Any more than that and you are only buying a lower strain on the PSU during operations and most likely a longer lasting PSU as a result.

If it is as I expect that your Apevia 700w should really be labelled a 400w and it worked for X amount of time then all you probably really need is a good quality 400w-500w PSU rather than a $70 PSU that is a high quality 700w unit.

I haven't really kept up with current deals, but I know that the Corsair CX 430 is a decent PSU and it used to be obtainable for like $20 in a Newegg deal. I checked just now and it is $37 so the deal must have ran out.

That is probably still as cheap as a high quality PSU is going to get. It also only has 1x PCIE power connector so if your video card needed two it wouldn't work. I don't know if it does or not since all I know is that it is from the 7800 series. The 7850 takes 1 and the 7870 takes 2.

Any PSU with 2x PCIE connectors that would fit a 7870 would probably cost a good bit more than that $36 after rebates.

Better case - I don't know how far gone that the current PSU is, so a new case might work if the PSU isn't too far gone by now that filling it with cold air rather than hot would get it working for a while longer.

I can't really know that and therefore I can't really promise you anything in that regard.

I do feel for your situation, being on a budget and all. I am in my 30s and all I can spend on my PC is money I get from birthdays and for Christmas. I should be using that for bills too, but I don't. Anyway, I do get it I just wanted you to know.

As far as serious budget cases go, the 3 to look at are the Cooler Master Elite 430, the Cooler Master HAF 912, and the Antec Three Hundred and/or Three Hundred Illusion cases.

For people on low budgets, almost everyone here suggests the HAF 912, some small percentage voices support for the Antec Three Hundred or Illusion cases, and the Elite 430 is about the lowest people will suggest for anyone on even the most stringent budgets.

You give up quite a bit moving down from HAF 912 to the Elite 430, so that is why most people try to talk people into the HAF 912. If there was some competition of the cases where bang for your buck was the only factor, the HAF 912 would surely come out ahead in it.

NZXT makes some decent low end cases with bottom mount PSU racks, but I can't speak to the quality of those. They are still a tiny manufacturer and I haven't heard enough good stuff about them to get behind them. They would probably cost about the same as the others, though. With cheapy ones being about equal to the Elite 430 and the really good bargains about on par with the HAF 912.

Corsair makes good cases too, but not price competitive with the above makers, they focus only on the higher end cases themselves.

Anyway, if you really don't have much money then I would try to get another PSU from somewhere to try to confirm that the PSU is really the problem and if it is then just spend the money on a good PSU and shove it up top as much as it makes me cringe to say it.

If you use the computer just fine out of the case on the table, though, then I would get a case instead. The HAF 912 if you can afford it and the Elite 430 if you absolutely cannot.

In either case, I would start saving for the other pieces as new money becomes available.
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June 2, 2012 4:59:58 PM

Raiddinn said:
Most people vastly overestimate how many watts they need to run their computer. Even most high end gaming computers top out under 500w unless they have multiple video cards or are massively OCing things.

Any more than that and you are only buying a lower strain on the PSU during operations and most likely a longer lasting PSU as a result.

If it is as I expect that your Apevia 700w should really be labelled a 400w and it worked for X amount of time then all you probably really need is a good quality 400w-500w PSU rather than a $70 PSU that is a high quality 700w unit.

I haven't really kept up with current deals, but I know that the Corsair CX 430 is a decent PSU and it used to be obtainable for like $20 in a Newegg deal. I checked just now and it is $37 so the deal must have ran out.

That is probably still as cheap as a high quality PSU is going to get. It also only has 1x PCIE power connector so if your video card needed two it wouldn't work. I don't know if it does or not since all I know is that it is from the 7800 series. The 7850 takes 1 and the 7870 takes 2.

Any PSU with 2x PCIE connectors that would fit a 7870 would probably cost a good bit more than that $36 after rebates.

Better case - I don't know how far gone that the current PSU is, so a new case might work if the PSU isn't too far gone by now that filling it with cold air rather than hot would get it working for a while longer.

I can't really know that and therefore I can't really promise you anything in that regard.

I do feel for your situation, being on a budget and all. I am in my 30s and all I can spend on my PC is money I get from birthdays and for Christmas. I should be using that for bills too, but I don't. Anyway, I do get it I just wanted you to know.

As far as serious budget cases go, the 3 to look at are the Cooler Master Elite 430, the Cooler Master HAF 912, and the Antec Three Hundred and/or Three Hundred Illusion cases.

For people on low budgets, almost everyone here suggests the HAF 912, some small percentage voices support for the Antec Three Hundred or Illusion cases, and the Elite 430 is about the lowest people will suggest for anyone on even the most stringent budgets.

You give up quite a bit moving down from HAF 912 to the Elite 430, so that is why most people try to talk people into the HAF 912. If there was some competition of the cases where bang for your buck was the only factor, the HAF 912 would surely come out ahead in it.

NZXT makes some decent low end cases with bottom mount PSU racks, but I can't speak to the quality of those. They are still a tiny manufacturer and I haven't heard enough good stuff about them to get behind them. They would probably cost about the same as the others, though. With cheapy ones being about equal to the Elite 430 and the really good bargains about on par with the HAF 912.

Corsair makes good cases too, but not price competitive with the above makers, they focus only on the higher end cases themselves.

Anyway, if you really don't have much money then I would try to get another PSU from somewhere to try to confirm that the PSU is really the problem and if it is then just spend the money on a good PSU and shove it up top as much as it makes me cringe to say it.

If you use the computer just fine out of the case on the table, though, then I would get a case instead. The HAF 912 if you can afford it and the Elite 430 if you absolutely cannot.

In either case, I would start saving for the other pieces as new money becomes available.


We are so alike lol, my birthday was recently and I used the birthday money and spend it on the new heat sink, new case HAF series. Since it has mount bottom for PSU. It should last a whole for my PSU and save my money till I am able to get a new one. So yeah it's funny how we are so alike since I already bought the HAF case last night hehe. Thank you and I appreciated your time. I'll message you when I need some since I have to take out my motherboard and PSU especially those cables attached :(  I hope it's easy to reinstall it. One question, If I disconnected everything to put motherboard in the new case, do I have to reinstall the windows? Hope not!
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June 2, 2012 6:00:03 PM

Best answer selected by Skele.
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June 2, 2012 6:23:32 PM

The computer doesn't know anything about the case so you won't have to reinstall Windows. The only way you might run into problems is if you don't hook up the cables right.

Make sure you note down the order your hard drives and stuff are shown in the BIOS and the order they are in the SATA ports and make sure that they are that way when you reconnect everything.

If they aren't that way again when you turn the computer on it has a small chance to throw a fit. The chance is not large, though, and at most you would have to switch ports around or mess around in the BIOS to fix it.

The good thing about a good case is that they almost never actually break since they don't have many moving parts and the buttons they do have are rated for like 100,000 presses or something crazy like that.

- Edit - I got sidetracked, I meant to mention that a good case will keep 10 different builds cool so even when your processor and video cards will have to be replaced the case will still be providing value. Case stuff doesn't change much, and cases like the HAF 912 have plenty of room so they can hold longer motherboards or longer video cards if you need that capability in the future.

Especially if you are the kind of person who likes to put their computer to sleep instead of turning it off (I am one) then turning the PC back on doesn't require hitting any buttons on the PC, just moving the mouse or hitting a key on the keyboard.

Also, I would have gotten a HAF 912 myself, but I went into vanity mode on Black Friday and wanted to get a Lian Li case since it was marked down to the same as a HAF 912 costed.

If you compare it to cars, the HAF 912 is kinda like a Toyota Camry and Lian Li cases are more like Cadillacs. Not that my case is super great like the more expensive Lian Li cases are, but I took the low end Lian Li case over the low end HAF case just for the brand name association and because I wanted to feel like I have more money than I do.

I don't regret it, I love my case. I would probably love the HAF 912 just as much if my case wasn't marked down like it was, though.

If you aren't comfortable with connecting the cables, what I suggest you do is take lots of pictures of how things look inside the case in terms of what is connected to what.
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June 2, 2012 9:27:07 PM

Raiddinn said:
The computer doesn't know anything about the case so you won't have to reinstall Windows. The only way you might run into problems is if you don't hook up the cables right.

Make sure you note down the order your hard drives and stuff are shown in the BIOS and the order they are in the SATA ports and make sure that they are that way when you reconnect everything.

If they aren't that way again when you turn the computer on it has a small chance to throw a fit. The chance is not large, though, and at most you would have to switch ports around or mess around in the BIOS to fix it.

The good thing about a good case is that they almost never actually break since they don't have many moving parts and the buttons they do have are rated for like 100,000 presses or something crazy like that.

- Edit - I got sidetracked, I meant to mention that a good case will keep 10 different builds cool so even when your processor and video cards will have to be replaced the case will still be providing value. Case stuff doesn't change much, and cases like the HAF 912 have plenty of room so they can hold longer motherboards or longer video cards if you need that capability in the future.

Especially if you are the kind of person who likes to put their computer to sleep instead of turning it off (I am one) then turning the PC back on doesn't require hitting any buttons on the PC, just moving the mouse or hitting a key on the keyboard.

Also, I would have gotten a HAF 912 myself, but I went into vanity mode on Black Friday and wanted to get a Lian Li case since it was marked down to the same as a HAF 912 costed.

If you compare it to cars, the HAF 912 is kinda like a Toyota Camry and Lian Li cases are more like Cadillacs. Not that my case is super great like the more expensive Lian Li cases are, but I took the low end Lian Li case over the low end HAF case just for the brand name association and because I wanted to feel like I have more money than I do.

I don't regret it, I love my case. I would probably love the HAF 912 just as much if my case wasn't marked down like it was, though.

If you aren't comfortable with connecting the cables, what I suggest you do is take lots of pictures of how things look inside the case in terms of what is connected to what.


In your opinion, should I consider getting a new motherboard? And with the 2 choices I have, PSU first or motherboard first?
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June 2, 2012 11:44:27 PM

I don't see any good reason at this stage to get a new motherboard.

Computer hardware isn't an exact science per se. I always like to say that there are two parts to any connection. A RAM stick and a RAM slot, a video card and a video card slot, the PSU end and the video card end, and so on. In any problem it could be either side.

On that note, the motherboard does touch on pretty much everything inside the computer.

However, in my experience if a motherboard is not DOA it usually takes some sort of trauma to mess it up later. Spilled water, a power outage, or a power surge for instance.

A case and PSU that are running hot could qualify, but statistics play a big part in the way people troubleshoot computers.

If I had to guess, I would say that the cooling/power systems would be 80%-85% likely for this sort of problem, the motherboard maybe 5%-10% likely, and the rest broken up among a lot of random stuff that nobody would have seen coming.

Based on everything I know, I couldn't recommend getting a motherboard over a PSU in order to attempt to fix this problem. If it were my personal computer, I wouldn't get the motherboard first and I always try to treat computer assistance as if I was working on my own stuff with my own (low) budget.

I don't really like to admit it, but I did end up running low quality PSUs up top for a good while (back when dinosaurs roamed the earth) and I had quite the same sort of power problems in my own computer. I burnt out 2 PSUs that way.

I had the XFX 650w up top in a bad case for a while as a replacement. It worked pretty well due to its solid construction (second best is good quality PSU up top or a bad quality PSU in the bottom, as before).

I wish I would have traded out my case sooner, though. Everything is just so much better now that I have a good case. Not that I really had the money to spend on a good case sooner, but I am sure I could have re-arranged my upgrades better if I could do it over again knowing everything I do now.

Anyway, on the subject of motherboards, my opinion is that they are pretty stupid things intelligence wise. All they really do is to take a 1 or a 0 from device A and move it to device B. All day long that's all they really do. All the heavy lifting is done by the things attached to the board, not the board itself.

So, I always say to just stick with the minimum board that does what you need. The board I have now I got because it was the absolute cheapest one that the store had that worked with my processor.

The motherboard I had before that I got for free along with the processor I had before that (Phenom 2 x4 840 + Asus M4A68T-M v2). The store was giving away cheap motherboards with processors so I jumped on that deal.

That is about how I think it should be done, but I will freely admit that the people who have tons of money and want to do OCing should probably not do what I do. They need the advanced power management and stuff that cheap boards don't have.

Anyway, if I was going to get somebody to mow my lawn for me I would look for a kid in the neighborhood who maybe wanted to supplement his allowance rather than hiring a rocket scientist to do it for me since they would probably do about the same job, but the kid would most likely do it for much cheaper.

The same sort of thing applies to motherboards. I don't see any good reason to pay $100, $150, $200, $250, or whatever for a device if $50 will do just as well and be equally high quality. If I don't need the other $50 worth of features on the more expensive board I just won't pay for it and won't have it.

From all I can see, your old board should still be able to do what it is supposed to do with the new parts so I don't see any good reason it should have to go.
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June 3, 2012 12:25:22 AM

Raiddinn said:
I don't see any good reason at this stage to get a new motherboard.

Computer hardware isn't an exact science per se. I always like to say that there are two parts to any connection. A RAM stick and a RAM slot, a video card and a video card slot, the PSU end and the video card end, and so on. In any problem it could be either side.

On that note, the motherboard does touch on pretty much everything inside the computer.

However, in my experience if a motherboard is not DOA it usually takes some sort of trauma to mess it up later. Spilled water, a power outage, or a power surge for instance.

A case and PSU that are running hot could qualify, but statistics play a big part in the way people troubleshoot computers.

If I had to guess, I would say that the cooling/power systems would be 80%-85% likely for this sort of problem, the motherboard maybe 5%-10% likely, and the rest broken up among a lot of random stuff that nobody would have seen coming.

Based on everything I know, I couldn't recommend getting a motherboard over a PSU in order to attempt to fix this problem. If it were my personal computer, I wouldn't get the motherboard first and I always try to treat computer assistance as if I was working on my own stuff with my own (low) budget.

I don't really like to admit it, but I did end up running low quality PSUs up top for a good while (back when dinosaurs roamed the earth) and I had quite the same sort of power problems in my own computer. I burnt out 2 PSUs that way.

I had the XFX 650w up top in a bad case for a while as a replacement. It worked pretty well due to its solid construction (second best is good quality PSU up top or a bad quality PSU in the bottom, as before).

I wish I would have traded out my case sooner, though. Everything is just so much better now that I have a good case. Not that I really had the money to spend on a good case sooner, but I am sure I could have re-arranged my upgrades better if I could do it over again knowing everything I do now.

Anyway, on the subject of motherboards, my opinion is that they are pretty stupid things intelligence wise. All they really do is to take a 1 or a 0 from device A and move it to device B. All day long that's all they really do. All the heavy lifting is done by the things attached to the board, not the board itself.

So, I always say to just stick with the minimum board that does what you need. The board I have now I got because it was the absolute cheapest one that the store had that worked with my processor.

The motherboard I had before that I got for free along with the processor I had before that (Phenom 2 x4 840 + Asus M4A68T-M v2). The store was giving away cheap motherboards with processors so I jumped on that deal.

That is about how I think it should be done, but I will freely admit that the people who have tons of money and want to do OCing should probably not do what I do. They need the advanced power management and stuff that cheap boards don't have.

Anyway, if I was going to get somebody to mow my lawn for me I would look for a kid in the neighborhood who maybe wanted to supplement his allowance rather than hiring a rocket scientist to do it for me since they would probably do about the same job, but the kid would most likely do it for much cheaper.

The same sort of thing applies to motherboards. I don't see any good reason to pay $100, $150, $200, $250, or whatever for a device if $50 will do just as well and be equally high quality. If I don't need the other $50 worth of features on the more expensive board I just won't pay for it and won't have it.

From all I can see, your old board should still be able to do what it is supposed to do with the new parts so I don't see any good reason it should have to go.



If you don't mind, could you give me good gaming PSU (make sure it fits the HAF 912 Case) I can probably go up to 150 dollars but would appreciate a good budgets which means more money for more stuff like fans. I am not sure if I can use the Apevia stock fans from Apevia case into the Coolermaster case. Let me know ASAP and thanks.
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June 3, 2012 1:57:08 AM

Fans are simple things, like motherboards. You just plug them in and they work assuming there are not problems somewhere else and the new case has slots available of the right size.

I have never heard of anyone not being able to move a fan between cases.

You would need to have the right connectors, but that is all.

The motherboard will have X number of fan connectors and the PSU MOLEX connectors can also power fans if you have the right adapters for it. Generally, if you have enough adapters then you can mount as many fans as you want.

They don't use much power, so that isn't a big concern, especially with the PSU on the bottom.

The PSU I have is the best in its class and it will power anything with 1 video card. I couldn't recommend that higher. The XFX Pro 650w Core is just a really good one and its usually very price competitive because XFX always gives good rebates with it and they do pay the rebates. I have 2 XFX PSUs in my house and they processed both pretty quickly. In maybe a month or two both times.

I looked on Newegg and it is apparently $86 right now which is on the high side. Usually it is available for an amount in the 70s. When I got mine it was for $65 shipped after rebate.

The Corsair CX 600w is available for about $62 after rebates, but I don't trust this brand nearly as much as I trust XFX. The Antec EarthWatts 500w should be about $72 and it is rated high by a website I trust, even though I don't trust this brand as much as XFX too.

Anyway, it is clear the way I went with my $, but I can't fault you for not wanting to pay the price tag. The other ones should work if you get those instead.

If you feel like being aggressive with a low wattage PSU, the Corsair CX 430w will probably work and its only $37 after rebates. It probably wouldn't last nearly as long as the others due to the increased strain from the increased load, but it would save you quite a bit of money up front.
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June 3, 2012 2:22:52 AM

Raiddinn said:
Fans are simple things, like motherboards. You just plug them in and they work assuming there are not problems somewhere else and the new case has slots available of the right size.

I have never heard of anyone not being able to move a fan between cases.

You would need to have the right connectors, but that is all.

The motherboard will have X number of fan connectors and the PSU MOLEX connectors can also power fans if you have the right adapters for it. Generally, if you have enough adapters then you can mount as many fans as you want.

They don't use much power, so that isn't a big concern, especially with the PSU on the bottom.

The PSU I have is the best in its class and it will power anything with 1 video card. I couldn't recommend that higher. The XFX Pro 650w Core is just a really good one and its usually very price competitive because XFX always gives good rebates with it and they do pay the rebates. I have 2 XFX PSUs in my house and they processed both pretty quickly. In maybe a month or two both times.

I looked on Newegg and it is apparently $86 right now which is on the high side. Usually it is available for an amount in the 70s. When I got mine it was for $65 shipped after rebate.

The Corsair CX 600w is available for about $62 after rebates, but I don't trust this brand nearly as much as I trust XFX. The Antec EarthWatts 500w should be about $72 and it is rated high by a website I trust, even though I don't trust this brand as much as XFX too.

Anyway, it is clear the way I went with my $, but I can't fault you for not wanting to pay the price tag. The other ones should work if you get those instead.

If you feel like being aggressive with a low wattage PSU, the Corsair CX 430w will probably work and its only $37 after rebates. It probably wouldn't last nearly as long as the others due to the increased strain from the increased load, but it would save you quite a bit of money up front.


How well does XFX do with overclocking? And is 650W actually 650W unlike the false watt on Apevia?
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June 3, 2012 3:11:08 AM

It actually isn't 650w.

Well, it really depends on what temperature internal to the PSU you are talking about.

Your Apevia unit could probably really do 650w if you had your PC in, say, Antarctica.

If you had your PC elsewhere, say in the Sahara Desert then it probably can't do 50w.

It is a sliding scale based on temperatures.

The most important one is obviously at or around room temperature, because most people use their PCs at close to that temperature.

The XFX Pro 650w Core, if used at or around room temperature, is capable of about 815w.

Here is a review from IMHO the best review site saying as much for exactly that model:

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/XFX-PRO-650-W-Po...

You can start with page 1 and read through it if you want, but I have enough experience with PSUs that I just always jump straight to page 7 and 8. Those two pages tell me all I need to know about a PSU.

So no the 650w on the XFX unit isn't really 650w, not in the way that you mean it.


OCing - Your computer may be using say about 350 - 450w with the new parts in it during some pretty high end stuff, so lets call it 400w.

When OCing, usually +2% power will get you about +1% performance, so if you pushed up the juice draw to +50% over regular (600w) then you would be OCing at about 25% higher than the base settings.

If that isn't enough OC for you, then you may want more than a base amount of 650w. Even if the XFX can do up to 815w for short non-sustained periods you wouldn't want to run it at higher than its actual labelled 650w for extended periods of time.

If you expect to be at 650w due to super OCing on everything and be there all the time, you would probably want to look more closely at the XFX 850w or something like that instead (which can I think get past 1100w in short bursts).

However, I think you probably really don't want to OC that high.

For one your motherboard probably can't handle a processor OC that high. That is also pretty aggressive even for video cards. You would open yourself up to a lot of stability problems if you did that kind of OCing on a small budget.

Even people with super expensive motherboards, cases, and PSUs can have difficulty getting +25% stable across the board.

Anyway, as long as you keep the OCing reasonable, I don't think you would have any problems with an XFX 650w and a HAF 912.

- Edit - BTW, a rule of thumb is that you can expect to get about 10w per $1 in the price. That would put the XFX 650w at or around 850w at the current ~$85 price tag, so it isn't too far off. It is a really good rule of thumb to use in a world where half the PSUs are tested in freezing temperatures (like Apevia) and the other half are tested in super high temperatures (like XFX).
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June 3, 2012 3:27:04 AM

Raiddinn said:
It actually isn't 650w.

Well, it really depends on what temperature internal to the PSU you are talking about.

Your Apevia unit could probably really do 650w if you had your PC in, say, Antarctica.

If you had your PC elsewhere, say in the Sahara Desert then it probably can't do 50w.

It is a sliding scale based on temperatures.

The most important one is obviously at or around room temperature, because most people use their PCs at close to that temperature.

The XFX Pro 650w Core, if used at or around room temperature, is capable of about 815w.

Here is a review from IMHO the best review site saying as much for exactly that model:

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/XFX-PRO-650-W-Po...

You can start with page 1 and read through it if you want, but I have enough experience with PSUs that I just always jump straight to page 7 and 8. Those two pages tell me all I need to know about a PSU.

So no the 650w on the XFX unit isn't really 650w, not in the way that you mean it.


OCing - Your computer may be using say about 350 - 450w with the new parts in it during some pretty high end stuff, so lets call it 400w.

When OCing, usually +2% power will get you about +1% performance, so if you pushed up the juice draw to +50% over regular (600w) then you would be OCing at about 25% higher than the base settings.

If that isn't enough OC for you, then you may want more than a base amount of 650w. Even if the XFX can do up to 815w for short non-sustained periods you wouldn't want to run it at higher than its actual labelled 650w for extended periods of time.

If you expect to be at 650w due to super OCing on everything and be there all the time, you would probably want to look more closely at the XFX 850w or something like that instead (which can I think get past 1100w in short bursts).

However, I think you probably really don't want to OC that high.

For one your motherboard probably can't handle a processor OC that high. That is also pretty aggressive even for video cards. You would open yourself up to a lot of stability problems if you did that kind of OCing on a small budget.

Even people with super expensive motherboards, cases, and PSUs can have difficulty getting +25% stable across the board.

Anyway, as long as you keep the OCing reasonable, I don't think you would have any problems with an XFX 650w and a HAF 912.

- Edit - BTW, a rule of thumb is that you can expect to get about 10w per $1 in the price. That would put the XFX 650w at or around 850w at the current ~$85 price tag, so it isn't too far off. It is a really good rule of thumb to use in a world where half the PSUs are tested in freezing temperatures (like Apevia) and the other half are tested in super high temperatures (like XFX).



You make a lot of sense. From what I see what you're saying is as long the PSU is cooled at a good temperature, the performances can do well? Unless I'm missing the points. And have you checked out the YouTube I posted about the screen pixelating? (Not a dead pixel) that's using Dynex DVI-D to HDMI Cable. So I returned the cable and I RMA'D CPU/GPU hopefully replacing it fix my issues. Let me know what your thoughts are. Monitor brand- LG FLATRON W2061TQ
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June 3, 2012 3:48:12 AM

Not just the PSU. Every electronic thing works at its best in a generally cold temperature. Washers, dryers, dishwashers, refrigerators, TVs, anything that uses electricity benefits from being used at a cold temperature.

If the cold temperature comes with moisture, not so much, but that is moisture related and not cold related. If you could find a way to make a freezer with zero humidity, it would be the perfect place to run a computer out of.

So yes even a sucky PSU can do pretty well in freezing cold weather. If you could survive keeping your thermostat on a nice frosty 32 fahrenheit your computer would probably work great with the Apevia PSU in it (unless it is too far gone at this point to still be usable).

What matters more for most people is being able to use their computers at a livable temperature in the mid to high 70s, which is where the bad PSUs start sucking. The good ones still go strong at that temperature. That is what makes the good ones so good and the bad ones so bad, the wide gap between their room temperature performance characteristics.

I didn't see any youtube links. If you posted one I must have read over it.
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June 3, 2012 4:32:16 PM

Raiddinn said:
Not just the PSU. Every electronic thing works at its best in a generally cold temperature. Washers, dryers, dishwashers, refrigerators, TVs, anything that uses electricity benefits from being used at a cold temperature.

If the cold temperature comes with moisture, not so much, but that is moisture related and not cold related. If you could find a way to make a freezer with zero humidity, it would be the perfect place to run a computer out of.

So yes even a sucky PSU can do pretty well in freezing cold weather. If you could survive keeping your thermostat on a nice frosty 32 fahrenheit your computer would probably work great with the Apevia PSU in it (unless it is too far gone at this point to still be usable).

What matters more for most people is being able to use their computers at a livable temperature in the mid to high 70s, which is where the bad PSUs start sucking. The good ones still go strong at that temperature. That is what makes the good ones so good and the bad ones so bad, the wide gap between their room temperature performance characteristics.

I didn't see any youtube links. If you posted one I must have read over it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBGoEHLsTN4

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June 3, 2012 5:35:34 PM

I looked at the video and I just don't see the problem. Maybe its the blurry camera shots or the moving all around or whatever, but whatever it is that I am supposed to see I am not seeing it.

My eyes aren't the best, though, which could also have to do with it.
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June 3, 2012 5:42:19 PM

Raiddinn said:
I looked at the video and I just don't see the problem. Maybe its the blurry camera shots or the moving all around or whatever, but whatever it is that I am supposed to see I am not seeing it.

My eyes aren't the best, though, which could also have to do with it.



Not blurry at all when I checked. Look at the top half screen it will be blinking pixels moving around the screen. Give it another shot. If still cannot see, I'll try to edit it into pictures and circle the pixels for you. If there're some way to post pic on here.
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June 3, 2012 5:49:28 PM

I guess I was looking for something a little larger. When I put my eye about an inch away from the monitor I think I saw what you mean.

I am certainly no expert on monitors or anything, but it sounds like you may want to check the monitor refresh rate the monitor is capable of and the refresh rate being used by the graphics card.

You may want to post that question separately elsewhere so people that are experts with monitors can give their 2 cents. They would probably be hanging out in the Graphics and Display section rather than this one.

I am much more focused on the computer case and everything inside of it.

Do you still have all the parts and everything now or did you RMA them and ship them off?
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June 3, 2012 5:55:00 PM

Raiddinn said:
I guess I was looking for something a little larger. When I put my eye about an inch away from the monitor I think I saw what you mean.

I am certainly no expert on monitors or anything, but it sounds like you may want to check the monitor refresh rate the monitor is capable of and the refresh rate being used by the graphics card.

You may want to post that question separately elsewhere so people that are experts with monitors can give their 2 cents. They would probably be hanging out in the Graphics and Display section rather than this one.

I am much more focused on the computer case and everything inside of it.

Do you still have all the parts and everything now or did you RMA them and ship them off?



It was shipped off on the 30th, and I have watched the tracking info, it should be at Newegg by tomorrow or the 5th. Hopefully they do RMA well since its my first time doing so. An about the rebates, how do I fill the paper since it didn't come in the package or am I wrong.
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June 3, 2012 6:31:25 PM

A lot of companies handle rebates differently. Whatever you bought you can probably search that + rebate online and find what you want.

Sometimes the newegg rebates come as a link in an email that takes you to a web form that tells you what to do.

What is the thing you are trying to get a rebate for?

I am pretty sure the rebate information for both my XFX PSUs came in the box, but I could be misremembering. Newegg may have given me a link online instead.
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June 3, 2012 7:07:08 PM

Raiddinn said:
A lot of companies handle rebates differently. Whatever you bought you can probably search that + rebate online and find what you want.

Sometimes the newegg rebates come as a link in an email that takes you to a web form that tells you what to do.

What is the thing you are trying to get a rebate for?

I am pretty sure the rebate information for both my XFX PSUs came in the box, but I could be misremembering. Newegg may have given me a link online instead.



The day I bought has rebate offers. But now I don't see it on newegg site. So the rebate I was suppose to get was from buying the new DiamondMM graphic card with free Dirt 60 dollars value and 30 dollars rebate so I paid 270, 240 with rebates. And yet I probably missed out on that.
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June 3, 2012 7:37:29 PM

If it had a rebate the first time when you ordered it then you should be entitled to it.

I think you can probably get it.

Maybe you will get an email in a day or two about it and if not I would call Newegg and ask about it or try to look it up online.
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June 4, 2012 1:50:39 AM

Raiddinn said:
If it had a rebate the first time when you ordered it then you should be entitled to it.

I think you can probably get it.

Maybe you will get an email in a day or two about it and if not I would call Newegg and ask about it or try to look it up online.


Can I remove I/O Panel shield and put it on the new case?
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June 4, 2012 1:58:42 AM

I can't guarantee you that will work.

A regular ATX motherboard would work in any case, a regular hard drive would work in any case, a regular DVD drive would work in any case, and so on.

A front panel doesn't necessarily have to work with any case, though, because it is external stuff and there are no specifications for external designs.
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June 4, 2012 2:24:10 AM

If you'd like to look over my spec other than DXDIAG, I can do so. Got this custom made 3-4 years ago.

->
*BASE_PRICE: [+529]
BUNDLE: None
BLUETOOTH: None
CD: LG 22X DVD+/-R/+/-RW + CD-R/RW Dual Layer Drive (BLACK COLOR)
CD2: NONE
CAS: Apevia X-Cruiser 2 Mid-Tower Case w/ Side-Panel Window & MultiMeter Display [+28] (Silver Color)
CS_FAN: Default case fans
CPU: AMD AthlonTII X2 250 Black Edition Dual-Core CPU w/ HyperTransport Technology
FAN: AMD ATHLON64 CERTIFIED CPU FAN & HEATSINK
FREEBIE_RM: None
FREEGAME_VC02: None
FA_HDD: None
FLASHMEDIA: INTERNAL 12in1 Flash Media Reader/Writer (BLACK COLOR)
FLOPPY: NONE
FREEBIE_OS: None
HDD: Single Hard Drive (320GB SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 16MB Cache 7200RPM HDD [-4])
HDD2: NONE
IEEE_CARD: NONE
MODEM: NONE
MULTIVIEW: Non-SLI/Non-CrossFireX Mode Supports Multiple Monitors
MONITOR: NONE
MONITOR2: NONE
MOTHERBOARD: GigaByte MA770T-UD3P AM3 DDR3 770 Chipset 1666+/1333/1066 with PCIe slot SATA RAID MB w/GbLAN
MEMORY: 4GB (2GBx2) PC1333 DDR3 PC3 10666 Dual Channel Memory (Corsair or Major Brand)
NETWORK: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network
OS: NONE - FORMAT HARD DRIVE ONLY
OS_UPGRADE: None
PRINTER: None
PRINTER_CABLE: None
POWERSUPPLY: 700 Watts Power Supplies [+7] (SLI/CrossFire Ready Power Supply)
RUSH: NO; READY TO SHIP IN 5~10 BUSINESS DAYS
SERVICE: STANDARD WARRANTY: 3-YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY PLUS LIFE-TIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT
SOUND: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO
TEMP: NONE
TVRC: None
USB: Built-in USB 2.0 Ports
USBHD: NONE
VIDEOCAMERA: NONE
VIDEO: ATI Radeon HD 4670 512MB DDR3 PCI-Express DVI-I & TVO (Major Brand Powered by ATI)
VIDEO2: None
VC_PHYSX: NONE
WNC: NONE
_PRICE: (+570)
_view_: d

Got the G.Skill 8GB in the package (just ordered week ago)
New GPU DiamondMM 7850 (waiting for RMA replacement)
New CPU AMD Phenom II X4 Quad Core deneb 3.4 GHz (Waiting for RMA replacement as well)
Windows 7 Premium.

I just send email to Newegg about the rebates, they instantly refunded 20 dollars and they apologized for the inconveniences... Sweet thing I don't have to fill out the forms.

Let me know what you think about my previous specs. I think the motherboard is an ATX since it says Form factor 1. ATX 2. 305mmx210mm
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June 4, 2012 4:20:18 AM

I am not big on rating people's current specs. I just mostly try to let people take advantage of my expertise when they are getting new specs or when they have a problem.

When you get the 7850 and the 965 processor working they will be pretty huge upgrades over those parts, though. Probably 2x or 3x the FPS in games.
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June 4, 2012 4:24:41 AM

Raiddinn said:
I am not big on rating people's current specs. I just mostly try to let people take advantage of my expertise when they are getting new specs or when they have a problem.

When you get the 7850 and the 965 processor working they will be pretty huge upgrades over those parts, though. Probably 2x or 3x the FPS in games.


Have you ever done RMA with Newegg? If so, mind me asking how fast do they go with replacements? I am dying to get back to my PC since there are informations I needed in the empty computer as of now :*( It would make me feel better if knowing they do well and quick with RMA.
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June 4, 2012 4:30:13 AM

I haven't ever RMAd anything that I bought personally.

The closest I have come is calling up dell tech support to get warranty coverage for enterprise environments.

I only order things that are 1% likely or less to be DOA for the most part.

Don't you still have the old processor and video card? Cant you just stick those back in?
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June 4, 2012 4:32:02 AM

Would that confused the motherboard and throw a fit?
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June 4, 2012 12:21:42 PM

It shouldn't make a difference.

Hardware is meant to be interchangeable.

At most you might have to take the battery out for 30 min, but that could happen even after you just put the new stuff back in too.
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June 7, 2012 5:18:15 AM

Raiddinn said:
It shouldn't make a difference.

Hardware is meant to be interchangeable.

At most you might have to take the battery out for 30 min, but that could happen even after you just put the new stuff back in too.



Oh dude I got the case and now I am totally confused since I switched case with motherboard. The wire from the case is different than the one from Apevia. So what I want to ask you is would you mind telling me how do I put the colorful wires on the colorful slot that says LED +1 LED-1, other one has 2 pins requires LED and the rest has orange, brown and blue. Or does it not matter where I plug those thing?
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June 7, 2012 2:06:47 PM

That 9 pin bank is hard to screw up.

The way these things work is that power flows through 1 pin, into something in the case, and then back out the other side.

The wires on both sides going to and from the case are the same, so if you reverse them it has no impact on the electrical functioning of the components.

You could theoretically plug the wrong thing into some of them and it would still work, but differently.

If you plugged then reset button into PWR_BTN, then the reset button would work to turn the computer on. The power and reset buttons just work by temporarily allowing power to go out through the going out end (a full electric circuit doesn't exist when the button isn't pushed, so it can't)

Not a bad thing to have as a backup in case heaven forbid the power button breaks.

Anyway, I think it is the most common for the pins to be arranged like this

2x PWR_BTN - 2x PWR_LED
2x HD_LED - 2x RST_BTN - 1x Nothing

- Edit - Added 1x nothing because usually a 9th pin exists that is not useful for anything at all.

Your motherboard manual would be able to confirm or deny that and it should be written in small print on the board too most likely.

Just make sure that you get the right 2 in the right 2 places without worrying about orientation and it should work.
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June 7, 2012 9:07:42 PM

Raiddinn said:
That 9 pin bank is hard to screw up.

The way these things work is that power flows through 1 pin, into something in the case, and then back out the other side.

The wires on both sides going to and from the case are the same, so if you reverse them it has no impact on the electrical functioning of the components.

You could theoretically plug the wrong thing into some of them and it would still work, but differently.

If you plugged then reset button into PWR_BTN, then the reset button would work to turn the computer on. The power and reset buttons just work by temporarily allowing power to go out through the going out end (a full electric circuit doesn't exist when the button isn't pushed, so it can't)

Not a bad thing to have as a backup in case heaven forbid the power button breaks.

Anyway, I think it is the most common for the pins to be arranged like this

2x PWR_BTN - 2x PWR_LED
2x HD_LED - 2x RST_BTN - 1x Nothing

- Edit - Added 1x nothing because usually a 9th pin exists that is not useful for anything at all.

Your motherboard manual would be able to confirm or deny that and it should be written in small print on the board too most likely.

Just make sure that you get the right 2 in the right 2 places without worrying about orientation and it should work.


Do I need to match the colors or match with what it says on the wire since colors doesn't mean anything?
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June 8, 2012 3:01:19 PM

If the one that says PWR_BTN has wires that are 2 different colors in it (for instance), then yes don't worry about them.

At the very least it won't damage anything if its wrong. You can just try it the other way if it doesn't work, but I am 99% sure it will.
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June 8, 2012 5:46:59 PM

This topic has been closed by Mousemonkey
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