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Voltage drops?

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February 15, 2012 5:19:11 AM

After having tested just about every component and just recently reformatting and installing a new mobo/CPU/memory combo, my PC is -still- randomly hanging (never crashing). I potentially stumbled across the answer being voltage drops in the power at my apartment complex. Has anyone had this happen to them? Is there a way to test it without a voltage meter (my guess is no)? Is a dedicated UPS battery a solution? I know it wouldn't be bad to have one anyway, but I'm just curious if this could actually be a problem. I have a HWMonitor log that ran for most of a day I think, which is here: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2653951/HWMonitor.txt but I can't really tell how to make any sense of it.

Thoughts?

More about : voltage drops

a c 136 B Homebuilt system
February 15, 2012 6:07:13 AM

Take your computer to a friends house ?
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February 15, 2012 2:07:42 PM

Outlander_04 said:
Take your computer to a friends house ?


Yeah, that's a good idea that for some reason I never thought of. The strange thing is, my computer was having these same symptoms at a previous duplex. At that point I had tested via replacement the GPU, PSU, HDD, DVD-RW and memory. This problem has been plaguing me for a few years now it's so annoying lol
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a b B Homebuilt system
February 15, 2012 2:57:14 PM

Your CPU temperature seems to be alarmingly high at 87 degrees centigrade, is this correct? Such a high temperature might account for the hangs.
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February 15, 2012 3:27:22 PM

pjmelect said:
Your CPU temperature seems to be alarmingly high at 87 degrees centigrade, is this correct? Such a high temperature might account for the hangs.


I guess if the monitor puts it there it should be true, right? I'm not very familiar with temperature ranges, but this seems weird as I believe I had a panel off my computer while this was running. I have the Intel 2500K and am using the stock heatsink, but maybe I should consider getting another heat sink? I thought I applied the thermal paste properly but I guess I could have screwed it up somehow? Do you have a good aftermarket heat sink to recommend? Preferably something affordable.
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a b B Homebuilt system
February 15, 2012 3:57:08 PM

Look in the BIOS under Hardware monitor to see what the true CPU temperatures is, if it is over 60 degrees centigrade after running the computer at full load then something is very wrong with the mounting of the heatsink.
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February 15, 2012 4:03:40 PM

The BIOS hardware monitor won't show what it's at under full load though, correct? I'll check it out for sure, but I went ahead and ordered a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus and some Arctic Silver (had been using non name brand stuff before) and will re-seat it properly making sure I don't screw it up this time.
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February 15, 2012 10:48:20 PM

bccarlso said:
The BIOS hardware monitor won't show what it's at under full load though, correct? I'll check it out for sure, but I went ahead and ordered a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus and some Arctic Silver (had been using non name brand stuff before) and will re-seat it properly making sure I don't screw it up this time.



Replacing the stock CPU cooler is a good idea, but What is your PC case? Does your case have a lot of intake and exaust fans? Having these fans will really help bring down the temp.
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February 16, 2012 12:18:41 AM

aqe040466 said:
Replacing the stock CPU cooler is a good idea, but What is your PC case? Does your case have a lot of intake and exaust fans? Having these fans will really help bring down the temp.


I've got the Antec P180 with three large fans in it.
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February 16, 2012 2:19:44 AM

bccarlso said:
I've got the Antec P180 with three large fans in it.



Okay I saw the picture of Antec P180 and I notice that it has front cover, does it have a front intake fans? and if does, when you are stressing your PC don't close the front cover so that air will come inside the case.
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February 16, 2012 2:36:22 PM

aqe040466 said:
Okay I saw the picture of Antec P180 and I notice that it has front cover, does it have a front intake fans? and if does, when you are stressing your PC don't close the front cover so that air will come inside the case.


It has front intake fans and there are vents on either side of the front cover, so air should be coming in just fine. I looked at the CPU temp in the bios and it was at about 33-34 degrees C, so I think the "CPUTIN" reading on the hardware monitor is incorrect. I forgot to take a screenshot, but my readings look a lot like this guys': http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6507/cpuidhwmonitor1.jpg who had a similar problem (though his computer was working fine). My "package" temp under where it says Intel 2500k (for me) was below 40 degrees C. I'm not sure what CPUTIN is on my computer, but I don't believe it's problematic. This leads me to believe again that it could be voltage drops, which I will hopefully be checking for at some point soon.
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February 16, 2012 3:31:28 PM

bccarlso said:
It has front intake fans and there are vents on either side of the front cover, so air should be coming in just fine. I looked at the CPU temp in the bios and it was at about 33-34 degrees C, so I think the "CPUTIN" reading on the hardware monitor is incorrect. I forgot to take a screenshot, but my readings look a lot like this guys': http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6507/cpuidhwmonitor1.jpg who had a similar problem (though his computer was working fine). My "package" temp under where it says Intel 2500k (for me) was below 40 degrees C. I'm not sure what CPUTIN is on my computer, but I don't believe it's problematic. This leads me to believe again that it could be voltage drops, which I will hopefully be checking for at some point soon.



Off course the temp is low when you are in the BIOS, But when you are stressing the CPU, the Temp will rise up, right? Remember that high temp on the CPU will gradually degrade the performance of the entire system. Have you change the CPU cooler already?
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February 16, 2012 3:39:19 PM

aqe040466 said:
Off course the temp is low when you are in the BIOS, But when you are stressing the CPU, the Temp will rise up, right? Remember that high temp on the CPU will gradually degrade the performance of the entire system. Have you change the CPU cooler already?


I feel like the Intel Core i5 2500K -> Temperatures -> Package reading is the correct reading, but of course I could be wrong. I have the HSF and Arctic Silver (had used generic before, dunno if that matters) on the way from NewEgg, so should be able to replace it on Monday.
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a b B Homebuilt system
February 16, 2012 4:00:48 PM

CPUTIN is not the CPU temperature ,it's the temperature of a diode in the vicinity of the CPU.
You need to be concerned with the core temps are and yours look fine.

The same symptom's in 2 separate duplexes ? Highly unlikely that it's a voltage issue on the AC side then.
Do the house lights dim when the refrigerator comes on ?

I'd be more inclined to believe that the old X1950 has more to do with your issue's than anything else, then again, we don't know what you're using for a power supply.
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February 16, 2012 4:06:25 PM

I have the Antec Phantom 500. Before I got my CPU/mobo/memory upgrade, I had tested a second power supply as well as a second (fairly equivalent GeForce I believe) GPU and the problem was still there. Is it worth taking my video card out and using the onboard graphics to see if that helps?
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a b B Homebuilt system
February 16, 2012 4:24:27 PM

bccarlso said:
I have the Antec Phantom 500. Before I got my CPU/mobo/memory upgrade, I had tested a second power supply as well as a second (fairly equivalent GeForce I believe) GPU and the problem was still there. Is it worth taking my video card out and using the onboard graphics to see if that helps?

Wow, I'd put all the blame there but you go on to say that you used a second psu.
Was it as old as the Phantom ?
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February 16, 2012 4:30:36 PM

delluser1 said:
Wow, I'd put all the blame there but you go on to say that you used a second psu.
Was it as old as the Phantom ?


I believe so, yeah. Could it be that I need a higher wattage PSU? I would have thought 500 would cover it, and the calculator here (http://support.asus.com/powersupply.aspx) says 400 is sufficient.
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