First-time builder here, very excited about it!
I posted a little while back about plans to renovate an old machine from work into an HTPC. Can't locate the thread now for some reason, or else I'd update there ... but suffice to say, I've scrapped that idea and now planning to build new.
Primary uses will be ripping/storing/playback of DVD/BD; streaming online content; and maybe mild gaming in future. Not planning on anything intense enough for SLI or Crossfire. Shooting for solid mid-level build, with some headroom left for future expansion/upgrades. Currently stuck on satellite, so no tuner card (yet). Planning for W7 platform.
HTPC will route through receiver into home theater system. Also planning to upgrade big/old/ugly CRT to 1080p flatscreen (looking around 60'-70") or projector.
Plenty of room for components in the home theater setup, so planning on ATX build to maximize future expansion, but preferably horizontal configuration to fit with receiver.
Hoping to purchase within next 1-2 weeks.
Budget is $700-750 before MIR, including OS and wireless keyboard.
Current build looks like this:
GIGABYTE GA-A75-D3H FM1 AMD A75 (Hudson D3) SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard, $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128518
AMD A8-3850 Llano 2.9GHz Socket FM1 100W Quad-Core Desktop APU with DirectX 11 Graphic AMD Radeon HD 6550D, $130
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103942
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL, $47
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314
Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD), $95
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148441
Seagate Barracuda Green ST2000DL003 2TB 5900 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive, $130
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148681
nMEDIAPC Black Aluminum / Acrylic / Steel HTPC 6000B ATX Media Center / HTPC Case, $70
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811204037
COOLER MASTER GX 450W RS450-ACAAD3-US 450W ATX12V v2.31 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply, $50
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171060
LG Black 12X Super Multi Blue with 3D Playback & M-DISC Support SATA WH12LS39 LightScribe Support - OEM, $75
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136241
IOGEAR GKM561R Black 2.4GHz Wireless HTPC Multimedia Keyboard with Laser Trackball and Scroll Wheel, $40
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823176018
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium, $190
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116716
TOTAL $927
I've been exploring several options for value-engineering my build to get within budget. Of course, first things first: this is my first time even trying to spec out a build, have I screwed up anywhere? Anyone see any compatibility problems here?
Second, I'm considering several options to bring it back down into budget - but being a newbie, I'm not sure where to start cutting costs while minimizing loss in performance. I've come up with several ideas, could use some input.
As far as priorities, I want to focus on cutting costs now that could be added back in the future as upgrades, preferably without compromising my upgrade path. I need to cut at least $177 to get back under budget, I'm looking at the following options, in roughly this order:
1. Eliminate SSD (Savings: $95). As much as I like the idea of zippy boots, that's all I'd really get out of an SSD for now. Gaming is a low priority, so I'm not particularly worried about other software sitting on an SSD. Plus, I'm assuming that I could add an SSD back in sometime in the future, especially after prices drop. I'd have to reinstall the OS onto the SSD, which I assume would be easy enough ... but any problem with trying to remove the OS from the HDD, without losing all my data/libraries that I've built up in the meantime?
2. Downsize HDD to Seagate Barracuda Green ST1500DL003 1.5TB 5900 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, $100 (Savings: $30). I originally started with this drive, but on one hand 500 GB seemed a lot of space to give up to save $30. On the other hand, it's obviously too much if it puts me over budget, and I can manage on 1.5TB for quite a while. On the other hand, maybe buying 320-500GB is the way to go, until prices come back down. On the other hand, the Seagate Barracuda ST500DM002, $75, seems like the best option along these lines, though it's 7200 rpm, not 5400. On the other other hand, downsizing from 1.5TB to 500GB is a pretty big difference just to save $25. On the other hand ... that's a lot of hands. 1.5TB seems like the sweet spot to me. (Cumulative savings: $125, out of $177).
3. Downgrading CPU to A6-3650 (Savings: $20). The 3650 is still a quad-core, but graphics engine is the 6530D instead of 6550D. I'll be honest, I can't figure out what this really means for me in the real world - but the 3650 seems to get quite a bit of run for HTPC's, so I'm assuming it's a marginal difference, at best? The 3650 also clocks a little slower (I'm not exactly up to OC'ing, at least not yet), but I'm not sure it would really impact my planned uses. Maybe I notice a difference at some point down the line with future upgrades, but I think this is probably pretty minimal. (Cumulative savings: $145, out of $177).
4. Downgrade RAM to 2x2 1600 (Savings: $17) or 2x2 1333 (Savings: $19). 8 GB in the original build seems like overkill for current planned uses, and relatively easy to add more memory in the future, especially with four slots on MB. I'd stick with the 1600, rather than save $2 by slowing down to 1333. (Cumulative savings: $162, out of $177)
5. Downgrading BD burner to random BD drive (Savings: $15). I don't have particular plans to burn BD's, but $15 seems awfully cheap to add burning capability in the first place. Reviews of this drive specifically mention successful ripping of BD's, too, while some reviews of cheaper BD drives cite problems ripping. Considering that ripping into a digital/on-demand library is a top priority, I'm really hesitant to risk this. (Cumulative savings: Still $162, out of $177).
6. Utilize 300W PSU that comes OEM with case, eliminate Cooler Master 450W unit (Savings: $50). I think I have a pretty good idea what you all will say about this one. If nothing else, if the A8-3850 runs at 100W, I know I want to make sure I have plenty of power. A couple of things strike me, though. First, so far I'm not really powering all that much outside the APU: no video card, no sound card, not even a TV tuner. I dumped the SSD at Step 1. Maybe I can get away with 300W? I've tried using online power calculators, and have gotten estimated results ranging from 250W to 525W for the same build. (Gee, thanks for the help.) Second (and kind of in conjunction with the first part), as long as the 300W unit is coming OEM, and I'd have it anyway, maybe I can get some use of it for a while, and upgrade to 450W later, especially if/when I add SSD, additional HD's, etc. Am I fooling myself ? I'm a newbie and I'm not easily offended, so feel free to tell me that I'm just off my rocker here. (Cumulative savings: $212, out of $177, if I go with this?)
7. Downgrading CPU to A6-3600 (Savings: $50 total, additional $30 savings over A6-3650). The 3600 has the same graphics engine as the 3650, but it's only a triple-core. I'm pretty reluctant to give up a core, unless you all tell me it's really no big deal for future upgrades. I think I'm ruling this option out. (Cumulative savings: Still $162, out of $177, if using 450W PSU, $212 if not.)
8. Downsizing to mATX, GIGABYTE GA-A75M-D2H (Savings: $20). Still FM1 and A75, so current functionality seems awfully close (if not identical), but I'm actually starting to sacrifice future expansion/upgrade path by sacrificing memory channels and PCI slots. To be honest, I'm not sure how many I'd really use down the line anyway ... but downsizing MB feels awfully permanent. (Cumulative savings: $182, out of $177, with 450W, $232 with 300W).
9. Windows 7 OEM instead of Retail (Savings: $90). I know this is easy money to many of you, but I've got to be honest: for my first build ever, with thoughts of needing to reinstall the OS in the future (onto an add-on SSD), I just don't have the comfort level to risk running into problems with OEM. Maybe my next build.
10. Generic cheap, ugly, ATX mid-tower. (Savings: $50). If all else fails, I go there. And I suppose, at least in theory, there's no reason I couldn't buy a nice case in the future, and migrate everything over ... right?
11. Random ugly, corded keyboard from the bottom of the closet (Savings: $40). It's not the ugly part that concerns me so much as the corded part. I'm planning to put the HTPC unit in an entertainment cabinet on one side of the room, and control it while my fat behind is sitting on a couch on the other side of the room. What's the point of driving my HTPC with a keyboard on a 4-foot cord? And no, a 50-foot cord isn't the answer, either.
All right ... if you've read this far, I thank you. If you care to weigh in, suggest ideas, or even just smack me upside the head, I'd appreciate it even more. I've gotten the bug, and I know you folks are the ones to seek out for help. (This kind of reminds me of learning to mod my car through online forums ... when I started I didn't know how to change my own oil, but before long I was replacing my entire exhaust from the heads back.)
Back to the issue at hand: I need to bring my project into budget. I know I can get there, but I don't have the wisdom or experience to balance the best/worst choices for doing it. If you were trying to downgrade/downsize my build to fit budget, how would you do it?
I posted a little while back about plans to renovate an old machine from work into an HTPC. Can't locate the thread now for some reason, or else I'd update there ... but suffice to say, I've scrapped that idea and now planning to build new.
Primary uses will be ripping/storing/playback of DVD/BD; streaming online content; and maybe mild gaming in future. Not planning on anything intense enough for SLI or Crossfire. Shooting for solid mid-level build, with some headroom left for future expansion/upgrades. Currently stuck on satellite, so no tuner card (yet). Planning for W7 platform.
HTPC will route through receiver into home theater system. Also planning to upgrade big/old/ugly CRT to 1080p flatscreen (looking around 60'-70") or projector.
Plenty of room for components in the home theater setup, so planning on ATX build to maximize future expansion, but preferably horizontal configuration to fit with receiver.
Hoping to purchase within next 1-2 weeks.
Budget is $700-750 before MIR, including OS and wireless keyboard.
Current build looks like this:
GIGABYTE GA-A75-D3H FM1 AMD A75 (Hudson D3) SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard, $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128518
AMD A8-3850 Llano 2.9GHz Socket FM1 100W Quad-Core Desktop APU with DirectX 11 Graphic AMD Radeon HD 6550D, $130
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103942
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL, $47
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314
Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD), $95
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148441
Seagate Barracuda Green ST2000DL003 2TB 5900 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive, $130
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148681
nMEDIAPC Black Aluminum / Acrylic / Steel HTPC 6000B ATX Media Center / HTPC Case, $70
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811204037
COOLER MASTER GX 450W RS450-ACAAD3-US 450W ATX12V v2.31 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply, $50
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171060
LG Black 12X Super Multi Blue with 3D Playback & M-DISC Support SATA WH12LS39 LightScribe Support - OEM, $75
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136241
IOGEAR GKM561R Black 2.4GHz Wireless HTPC Multimedia Keyboard with Laser Trackball and Scroll Wheel, $40
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823176018
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium, $190
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116716
TOTAL $927
I've been exploring several options for value-engineering my build to get within budget. Of course, first things first: this is my first time even trying to spec out a build, have I screwed up anywhere? Anyone see any compatibility problems here?
Second, I'm considering several options to bring it back down into budget - but being a newbie, I'm not sure where to start cutting costs while minimizing loss in performance. I've come up with several ideas, could use some input.
As far as priorities, I want to focus on cutting costs now that could be added back in the future as upgrades, preferably without compromising my upgrade path. I need to cut at least $177 to get back under budget, I'm looking at the following options, in roughly this order:
1. Eliminate SSD (Savings: $95). As much as I like the idea of zippy boots, that's all I'd really get out of an SSD for now. Gaming is a low priority, so I'm not particularly worried about other software sitting on an SSD. Plus, I'm assuming that I could add an SSD back in sometime in the future, especially after prices drop. I'd have to reinstall the OS onto the SSD, which I assume would be easy enough ... but any problem with trying to remove the OS from the HDD, without losing all my data/libraries that I've built up in the meantime?
2. Downsize HDD to Seagate Barracuda Green ST1500DL003 1.5TB 5900 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, $100 (Savings: $30). I originally started with this drive, but on one hand 500 GB seemed a lot of space to give up to save $30. On the other hand, it's obviously too much if it puts me over budget, and I can manage on 1.5TB for quite a while. On the other hand, maybe buying 320-500GB is the way to go, until prices come back down. On the other hand, the Seagate Barracuda ST500DM002, $75, seems like the best option along these lines, though it's 7200 rpm, not 5400. On the other other hand, downsizing from 1.5TB to 500GB is a pretty big difference just to save $25. On the other hand ... that's a lot of hands. 1.5TB seems like the sweet spot to me. (Cumulative savings: $125, out of $177).
3. Downgrading CPU to A6-3650 (Savings: $20). The 3650 is still a quad-core, but graphics engine is the 6530D instead of 6550D. I'll be honest, I can't figure out what this really means for me in the real world - but the 3650 seems to get quite a bit of run for HTPC's, so I'm assuming it's a marginal difference, at best? The 3650 also clocks a little slower (I'm not exactly up to OC'ing, at least not yet), but I'm not sure it would really impact my planned uses. Maybe I notice a difference at some point down the line with future upgrades, but I think this is probably pretty minimal. (Cumulative savings: $145, out of $177).
4. Downgrade RAM to 2x2 1600 (Savings: $17) or 2x2 1333 (Savings: $19). 8 GB in the original build seems like overkill for current planned uses, and relatively easy to add more memory in the future, especially with four slots on MB. I'd stick with the 1600, rather than save $2 by slowing down to 1333. (Cumulative savings: $162, out of $177)
5. Downgrading BD burner to random BD drive (Savings: $15). I don't have particular plans to burn BD's, but $15 seems awfully cheap to add burning capability in the first place. Reviews of this drive specifically mention successful ripping of BD's, too, while some reviews of cheaper BD drives cite problems ripping. Considering that ripping into a digital/on-demand library is a top priority, I'm really hesitant to risk this. (Cumulative savings: Still $162, out of $177).
6. Utilize 300W PSU that comes OEM with case, eliminate Cooler Master 450W unit (Savings: $50). I think I have a pretty good idea what you all will say about this one. If nothing else, if the A8-3850 runs at 100W, I know I want to make sure I have plenty of power. A couple of things strike me, though. First, so far I'm not really powering all that much outside the APU: no video card, no sound card, not even a TV tuner. I dumped the SSD at Step 1. Maybe I can get away with 300W? I've tried using online power calculators, and have gotten estimated results ranging from 250W to 525W for the same build. (Gee, thanks for the help.) Second (and kind of in conjunction with the first part), as long as the 300W unit is coming OEM, and I'd have it anyway, maybe I can get some use of it for a while, and upgrade to 450W later, especially if/when I add SSD, additional HD's, etc. Am I fooling myself ? I'm a newbie and I'm not easily offended, so feel free to tell me that I'm just off my rocker here. (Cumulative savings: $212, out of $177, if I go with this?)
7. Downgrading CPU to A6-3600 (Savings: $50 total, additional $30 savings over A6-3650). The 3600 has the same graphics engine as the 3650, but it's only a triple-core. I'm pretty reluctant to give up a core, unless you all tell me it's really no big deal for future upgrades. I think I'm ruling this option out. (Cumulative savings: Still $162, out of $177, if using 450W PSU, $212 if not.)
8. Downsizing to mATX, GIGABYTE GA-A75M-D2H (Savings: $20). Still FM1 and A75, so current functionality seems awfully close (if not identical), but I'm actually starting to sacrifice future expansion/upgrade path by sacrificing memory channels and PCI slots. To be honest, I'm not sure how many I'd really use down the line anyway ... but downsizing MB feels awfully permanent. (Cumulative savings: $182, out of $177, with 450W, $232 with 300W).
9. Windows 7 OEM instead of Retail (Savings: $90). I know this is easy money to many of you, but I've got to be honest: for my first build ever, with thoughts of needing to reinstall the OS in the future (onto an add-on SSD), I just don't have the comfort level to risk running into problems with OEM. Maybe my next build.
10. Generic cheap, ugly, ATX mid-tower. (Savings: $50). If all else fails, I go there. And I suppose, at least in theory, there's no reason I couldn't buy a nice case in the future, and migrate everything over ... right?
11. Random ugly, corded keyboard from the bottom of the closet (Savings: $40). It's not the ugly part that concerns me so much as the corded part. I'm planning to put the HTPC unit in an entertainment cabinet on one side of the room, and control it while my fat behind is sitting on a couch on the other side of the room. What's the point of driving my HTPC with a keyboard on a 4-foot cord? And no, a 50-foot cord isn't the answer, either.
All right ... if you've read this far, I thank you. If you care to weigh in, suggest ideas, or even just smack me upside the head, I'd appreciate it even more. I've gotten the bug, and I know you folks are the ones to seek out for help. (This kind of reminds me of learning to mod my car through online forums ... when I started I didn't know how to change my own oil, but before long I was replacing my entire exhaust from the heads back.)
Back to the issue at hand: I need to bring my project into budget. I know I can get there, but I don't have the wisdom or experience to balance the best/worst choices for doing it. If you were trying to downgrade/downsize my build to fit budget, how would you do it?