Gaming PC Build... Need suggestions

Case - Power Supply & Case Bundle $299
COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced Blue Edition RC-932-KKN3-GP ATX Full Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0, Black Interior and Four Blue LED Fans-1x 230mm front 1x 230mm top 1x 230mm side and 1x 140mm rear

Powersupply - Power supply & case bundle $299
COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Hybrid RS-850-SPHA-D3 850W Intel ATX 12V V2.3 & SSI EPS 12V V2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

Motherboard $204
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS

Processor: $224
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I52500K

Ram: $50
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B

Video Card: $249
EVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

SSD: $104
Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

Total Cost (so far) = $1130

-I have a 1 TB HDD
-I have the monitors / basics
-Do I need a CPU fan?
-Any way I could save more money?
-Any suggestions on what to add to the computer?
7 answers Last reply
More about gaming build suggestions
  1. I would avoid the bundle case + PSU deal. As with most bundles you are usually taking one bad part along with the good one, and this case it is the Cooler Master PSU which isn't a brand many trust around here.

    If you want a 932, I would get it separate and then get an XFX 650w or something instead of the Cooler Master PSU.

    Motherboard - Probably overkill. I don't know why you would need more than the regular $125 motherboard from Asus instead.

    RAM - I would get CT2KIT51264BA1339 instead.

    Video card - The HD 6950 is comparable to the 560TI and usually cheaper.

    SSD - Good pick.

    If the processor says it comes with a fan then that is fine if you aren't OCing. If you are OCing then get a Hyper 212 to go along with it, even if it comes with a basic one.
  2. Thanks for the quick response Raiddinn.

    I was wondering if a ATX Mid-tower would be able to house everything sufficently? Or if there are any cheaper full cases that will still get the job done?

    Also, for the motherboard I was looking for something that could support ivy bridge if I decide to upgrade down the road. Do all the LG1155 support Ivy Bridge, or is it only the boards that say Gen 3? Would board would you reccomend for the 125 price range?

    Why would you chose that ram?

    I have never overclocked before, but it did catch my interest. Is it crucial to play some of the newer games? Would it effect the life of the CPU?

  3. I haven't heard of anybody saying that they couldn't fit their computer into a HAF 912 or Antec 300. Mid tower cases are bigger than you think. I have a mid-tower case and it is positively huge. I don't have any idea why it wouldn't be called a full tower case, but its supposedly a mid tower case.

    99% of the inside of my mid tower case is empty space. All my cables are hidden and not obstructing airflow. All that good stuff.

    Not like most people need 10 available hard drive bays or anything. I took out one of my hard drive cages because it was needlessly obstructing inbound airflow.

    As far as I know, any 1155 will support Ivy Bridge, but it hasn't been released yet so it is hard to be 100% sure.

    For reference, I don't think FX motherboards are supposed to reject FX CPUs, but they do many times until they have a BIOS update.

    It isn't that uncommon for unforseen compatibility problems with newly released chips, even if they physically fit in older boards.

    RAM - I trust the brand and model more. There is usually no difference between 1333 and 1600 RAM, because RAM is almost never the thing that is bottlenecked.

    OCing - Not necessary, but some people are interested in it. For the most part it is the video card that affects gaming performance the most, but OCing often does help people get higher frame rates, especially if their CPU is bottlenecked.

    Motherboard - The $125 Z68 motherboards from Asus or Gigabyte are good enough for most people. There should be only one of each at that price point if my memory serves. Either way the differences won't be major.
  4. -I'm down on the CM Power Supply ... not likin the jonnyguru ratings

    First Choices (10.0 jonnyguru performance rating):

    Antec CP-850

    Antec SG-850

    Corsair HX850

    XFX Black Edition

    Second Choices (9.5 jonnyguru performance rating):

    Antec TPQ-850

    Antec HCG-900

    Corsair TX V2

    Corsai AX-850

    XFX Core Edition 850

    Seasonic MD12 850

    NZXT Hale90

    Third Choices (9.0 jonnyguru performance rating)

    Antec HCP-850

    Enermax Revolution 85+


    Toughpower XT 850 (8.5)

    OCZ Z Series 850 (8.5)

    Silverstone Element ST85EF (6.0)

    Consider the following order of preference:

    Antec 1200 V3 w/ CP-850
    Corsair 500Rv w/ HX850
    HAF-X w/ Corsair AX850

    -Skip the tall, toothy heat sinks.....they are just there to "look cool" and serve no purpose whatsoever ....except to interfere w/ ya CPU cooler|20-233-196^20-233-196-TS%2C20-233-186^20-233-186-TS%2C20-233-199^20-233-199-TS

    -Ya paying $235 for a GFX card clocked at 850 Mhz when there are other cards that cost less clocked at 900MHz or more. That EVGA card, while it has abetter cooler than the reference card is still equipped with teh reference 4 phase VRM where as Asus and Gigabyte for example uses 7 phase units and MSI uses a 6 phase. Go w/ 7 baby if you are gonna overclock that thing. Newegg has the one below for $225 and they overclocked it 30% above reference.
  5. If you get a larger mid-tower like the HAF 922 or some of the Corsair cases, you could easily fit all of that in there and get some nice features. I used to have an ATX build inside an Antec 300. It was cramped but it fit (had 2x460s in it as well).

    P67/Z68 is supposed to support IB when it comes out. PCI-e 3.0 is something supported by IB but isn't necessary from what I've read. Aside from that you're not getting much else so I wouldn't worry about an IB upgrade; the 2500K will keep you going for a few years without problems ;)

    I prefer G.Skill RAM since it's usually much cheaper than most other brands. You can usually get a 2x4GB 1600MHz kit for around $40.

    Overclocking won't help you much/at all in games. In most games you'll be limited by your GPU(s) before you hit a CPU bottleneck (Skyrim is somewhat of an exception).

    Does EVGA have any cheaper GPUs? I would consider either them or MSI for a 560Ti. Keep in mind it's pretty easy to OC a GPU without damaging it, and EVGA's warranty allows you to do a lot of stuff as long as you don't damage the PCB.
    I know that MSI uses Samsung VRAM, and I believe MSI's Twin Frozr cards do as well (my Hawk does), which is said to OC better than the standard Hynix stuff.
  6. Thanks for the responses, and I apologize ahead of time if I don't understand some of the things being said. This is my first build so don't judge some of my questions :p
    -I found that motherboard, and it seems to be more reasonably priced, im just not to sure what I loose from the original one I posted.

    -Thanks for the Power supply suggestions, and RAM... I did read alot about the initial one I chose and how it is rather tall, and can effect other things inside the case.

    Overall, I am looking for around a 1000 - 1100 budget, and a gaming computer that will run games for a few years.

    If it isn't to much to ask, could someone post a build they would do for this budget?
    Case, PSU, CPU, GPU, RAM, SSD, and anything else that I may be forgetting?


    P.S. I will not be able to respond for a few hours because of class, but I will respond later tonight!
  7. 2500k, gigabyte z68, ct2kit51264ba1339, hd 6950, xfx 650w, HAF 912, Crucial M4 64GBs SSD, non-hitachi 500 gb 7200 rpm HD. Hyper 212 if you still want to OC.
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