H100 vs NH-D14 (is the H100 noise that bad?)

[androidman]

Building a new PC, I do plan overclocking the 3750k to at least 4ghz.
I really really like the H100, it's slim, it's black (fitting with the rest of my case), and it cools well. However I hear it has loads of noise issues in that the pump is known to create all sorts of dodgy noises.

The NH-D14 works well but looks ugly as hell- it sticks out of my mobo making it look like a tumour or something growing out of my PC. However I know it'll be silent.

I really don't know what to do?

Any alternatives are also appreciated!

 

[bigcyco1]

New Rasa 450 RX120 WaterCooling Kit from XSPC! Kit Contents: Rasa Black (Acetal) CPU Waterblock Socket... http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=32275

 

[bigcyco1]

If your going to water cool don't insult real water cooling the H-100 is a disgrace and absolutely a joke And,corsair and whoever they had make the H-100 and rest of the H series should be ashamed.This is good for beginner and worthy to be called water cooling! http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ra750rswakit.html

 

[UVB076]

Don't do water, unless you're using some sort of next level case that separates the rad from the rest of the case. Water cooling is literally like a case that sh!ts where it eats, you're using hot air to cool hot water, or you're making water hot while it enters your case. The D-14 is a very nice cooler, though the color is really ugly.

 

[bigcyco1]

OP there is allot more to water cooling and the above analogy is very one sided and not a very good one. Anyways check these links out and see for yourself what it is all about and if it might be something your interested in
http://tinyurl.com/6npt6ho if not then get the NH-D14 or this is not as ugly and cools on par with NH-D14 and Silver Arrow PHANTEKS PH-TC14PE_BL 5 x?8mm Dual Heat-Pipes Dual 140mm Premium Fans and Quiet CPU Cooler with Patented P.A.T.S Coating
by Phanteks
http://www.amazon.com/PHANTEKS-PH-TC14PE_BL-Heat-Pipes-Premium-Patented/dp/B005OQJVP0/ref=pd_cp_pc_1/178-7594657-4819959

 

[androidman]

If your going to water cool don't insult real water cooling the H-100 is a disgrace and absolutely a joke And,corsair and whoever they had make the H-100 and rest of the H series should be ashamed.This is good for beginner and worthy to be called water cooling! http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ra750rswakit.html

Although I do understand that the the H100 is not proper water cooling, it's still a very decent CPU cooler. It matches that of good air coolers and generally works pretty welll. A full water cooling loop to the CPU will cost me just over £100 whilst I can pick up the H100 for around £80. Not to mention I am very inexperienced when it comes to dealing with water cooling components.

The only thing I'm worried about is the supposed issue when the pump makes a whining noise.


My case is a Cosmos II so the rad goes on top of the case and the fans attach to the bottom hence blowing out all the heat transferred to the rad.

 

[bigcyco1]

Oh o.k. well as long as you know it's not real water cooling and only preforms as well as heat sinks that cost less then go for it another thing is keep the fans on low on mid settings the H-100 sounds like a swamp cooler when the fans are set on high the whining noise your talking about is common some don't do that while others do the only fix i know of is Get 1 of these - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268&filterName=Type&filterValue=Diodes - & 1 each of these male & female connectors (with the pins) - http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g4/c155/s642/list/p1/Electronics-Connectors_Pins-4-Pin_Connectors-Page1.html - & your wire stripper/crimper, molex pin puller, some heat shrink, & your Digital Multi Meter to check the polarity of the diode. Plug the diode into the yellow 12VDC wire of the molex connector you're going to use to power the cooler & use the DMM to find out which way the unplugged in diode lead reads about 11.8-11.9 VDC while measuring between the diode end & black wire next to the yellow wire. Fold the wire ends of the diode over & crimp them into 1 male (goes to the yellow wire) & 1 female ( goes to the new h100 molex plug). Plug the (now covered in heat shrink) diode into a male & female connector outer most holes (match it up with h100 molex plug). Use the molex puller to remove the wire closest to the empty holes of the h100 molex plug & then plug that male pin in new molex plug next to the diode (so it lines up with the black wire next to the yellow wire) & you're done. Or you can leave the wire in the h100 molex plug & crimp pins on a new small piece of wire (matching the overall length of the diode) & plug that new wire in next to the diode.Anyway,good luck mate.

 

[UVB076]

OH MY GOD IS THAT ONE SENTENCE?!

 

[UVB076]

Also, I hear the TPC-812 is pretty nice. Just run it dual fan.

 

[bigcyco1]

LOL!As long as OP can read it i don't think it matters Smart ass!

 

[UVB076]

Corsair doesn't make the H100. They just rebrand it. Same goes for a LOT of things in their line.
Anyway, air is better in most cases because:
1. They both achieve similar temps
2. Air is more hassle-free
3. Air is cheaper
4. Ivy Bridge chips use cheap TIM anyway so your cooler still won't perform at its maximum potential

 

[bigcyco1]

What does that have to do with his question he didn't ask who makes H-100 and it's pretty common knowledge that a lot of Corsair products are rebranded doesn't mean there not good like for example quite a few of the PSU are made by Seasonic and are rebranded with the Corsair name and those are top notch so doesn't make any sense mentioning Corsair doesn't make H-100.Anyway, the 4.reason uvbO76 list is totally off it's all the more reason to use a custom loop and it does provide better cooling than air lol talk about noob!Anyway,OP considering your willing to spend £80 i would suggest the NH-D14 or THERMALRIGHT SILVER ARROW or Phanteks PH-TC14PE the rest of the heat sinks are all less efficient at keeping your CPU cool compared to H-100 those are the only three that preform as well if not better.

 

[Swolern]

I currently have the 3570k. 4ghz is really nothing and even the stock cooler could probably handle it. You can OC to 4.2ghz with stock automatic voltages, just increase the multiplier to 42 and leave all other settings stock. I have my 3570k OC to 4.6ghz with a $25 Hyper 212, Vcore- 1.1310, VTT 1.020, PLL 1.660, IMC 0.895. Max temps are 76 degrees running prime95, and idle temps are 28-34 degrees. No need to spend more money on a more expensive cooling system unless you want to go above 4.6ghz or going for looks.

 

[androidman]

What does that have to do with his question he didn't ask who makes H-100 and it's pretty common knowledge that a lot of Corsair products are rebranded doesn't mean there not good like for example quite a few of the PSU are made by Seasonic and are rebranded with the Corsair name and those are top notch so doesn't make any sense mentioning Corsair doesn't make H-100.Anyway, the 4.reason uvbO76 list is totally off it's all the more reason to use a custom loop and it does provide better cooling than air lol talk about noob!Anyway,OP considering your willing to spend £80 i would suggest the NH-D14 or THERMALRIGHT SILVER ARROW or Phanteks PH-TC14PE the rest of the heat sinks are all less efficient at keeping your CPU cool compared to H-100 those are the only three that preform as well if not better.

I agree the NH-D14, SilveArrow and TC14PE are all better coolers. However sadly they look like someone took a turd inside my case. I know it shouldn't matter however it does bother me knowing there's such an ugly component inside my computer!

I'm tempted to do the H100 solution you posted earlier, it does seem like a lot of work though! I was looking at the EVGA SuperClock too. The cooler has decent performance for a low price and looks pretty sleek too. What do you guys think? How many degrees do you think I'll gain choosing this over the H100/NH-D14?

 

[UVB076]

TPC-812, and maybe get some nice fans on it. The Tuniq 120 looks pretty sick too.

 

[bigcyco1]

I don't know how many but here benchmarks of EVGA SuperClock if it helps you any need benchmarks of superclock? here you go-
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1629/6/
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/44824-evga-superclock-cpu-cooler-review-7.html
http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/10372-evga-superclocked-cpu-cooler-review?start=5 i heard the Thermaltake CLW0217 Water 2.0 Extreme/All-In-One Liquid Cooling System preforms better good have no proof though lol sorry it's just hear say from a few guys on different forums.

 

[UVB076]

Also, obviously "noobs" don't buy 2133 RAM or a Maximus board and then use SLI 560Ti /sarcasm

The cheap TIM that Intel uses bottlenecks your cooler in a way. Unless you have tall RAM, air is generally better. It actually somewhat contributes to airflow in your case, rather than making it worse.

 

[bigcyco1]

lol i need to go to sleep my above message hardly makes sense ahahaha dam it.

 

[UVB076]

Water cooling starts at H100 and custom. A high end air cooler is better than a low end water cooler.

 

[bigcyco1]

Since it matters to you how it looks and you only want to mild OC what do you think of the Cooler Master V6GT ?This cooler is about the muscle car aesthetic. The top of the cooler has an oil cap, when pressed, either turns on, turns off, or changes the color of the LED strip below it. It can go red, blue, or alternate them for a purple color. It has its own molex power connection, allowing the LED to be controlled without affecting the fans.

 

[Pailin]

maybe try out the Thermalright Archon - it beats out all the other air coolers, while using only one low rpm fan, depending on which review you read
+ could always add another Pulling fan and Still take up less room than those behemoths then should beat the temps of all the coolers mentioned here by shaving 2 - 3c off its already great cooling ability

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/thermalright-archon_4.html

This is a pretty tall cooler @ 170mm that will not fit in all cases - but with its smaller form and nickel plated finish I think it is a nice step up in style from some of those other HSFs

I should also note here that the Thermalright coolers tend to have a somewhat convex base that Could possibly use some lapping to improve its performance even further perhaps

 

[UVB076]

I'm pretty sure the V6 isn't a very good cooler. Try the Tuniq 120

 

[bigcyco1]

Not sure about V6 but i know these two are pretty good in the top 10 for sure NZXT HAVIK CPU Cooler with Dual 140MM Fans an Thermaltake Frio i would look around on web for reliable benchmarks and reviews on those two if the looks are acceptable to you.

 

[UVB076]

I'm pretty sure that for the Havik, you have to make it so that the fans blow up instead of backwards for good performance.

 

[Viking2121]

The V6 Sucks and the Tuniq 120 wont be any better. I used both of them and the Tuniq 120 was better for my old quad, but it wasn't that much better than the stock cooler in a well vented case (Phenom II x4 940).

Anyway if you decide to get the h100, it can out perform the NH-D14 if you have decent fans on it, But the h100 is more and the stock fans isn't bad, but not great, Loud if you ask me at high. I run the h100 on my Phenom II x6 1100T at 4.03ghz 1.48v, My temps wont pass 55C full load Prime95 for 30min. But I do have both the stock fans and two 110cfm fans for a push pull config.

The h100's has a noise problem, some of the older ones did. The newer h100's I guess have been fixed or im just lucky to get a quiet one. I had a friend who had the h100 and was silent for 3 months and all the sudden we hear a "pop" and it was the pump the failed, and restarted the PC and it made a grinding sound that was louder than the stock fans on high.

-Viking-