So I just bought this Desktop off of Woot! (Moofi)... $654

Jnam22

Honorable
Mar 4, 2012
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10,510
TLDR - Skip to the stats at the bot and tell me what should change. I'm not looking for an amazing gaming rig, yet I do game. Is there anything blaring that shoots up a red flag.

First and foremost, thanks for taking a look at this post. I've come to respect this website (and some of the members as I've read through comments) greatly; so I figured I'd post my "new" computer and ask for comments from the community.

A few quick questions before I post the stats & link.

Should I purchase the Squaresoft warranty? I believe it is parts/labor for up to 1 year for $99. If they cannot fix it they'll pay you cost of the computer. I have up to 30 days from date of purchase to pick this up and I bought the Desktop a week ago. This is a refurb.

I really want a solid state drive just for the 'fun' of it. I've always wanted one and am looking for roughly 128 gigs. Do you think I'll need an adapter so the drive will fit in my case? It’s a Microtower. Further as my comp comes with Win7 I'm thinking I'll have to call Microsoft to let me install Win 7 on the SSD? I know it depends on the version of windows, I hear each version home vs Prof, lets you use the key 'x' times before it locks. The purchase doesn't come with a Windows CD I do not believe.

Was this a decent purchase? Knowing these usually sell out rapidly, I purchased it after searching for a few of the components on Newegg and realized that this is roughly the same price if I built the computer myself, but it comes with Win7 and it comes prebuilt. Again, as it is a refurb they certify these that they run before they let them leave the warehouse. Hopefully that holds up to being close to as "near new".

Is it imperative that I upgrade the power supply? One members "signature" is (paraphrased): W/O a quality power supply you computer will turn into nothing more than a door stopper. I plan on playing League of Legends and possible Skyrim (bought it for my brother for his Bday, may ask to borrow it).

__________________Enough Questions____________ (Although I'm sure I can think of 10 more)

http://moofi.woot.com/moofi/letsdoitagain

Specifications: Operating system: Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium 64
Processor: Intel® Core™ i7-2600 3.4 GHz Chipset: Intel H61
Chassis Type: Microtower
Memory: 8 GB PC3-10600 MB/sec DDR3-1333
Memory slots: 2 DIMM
External drive bays: 2 external 5.25”, 2 internal 3.5”
Internal drive: 1.5 TB SATA (5400 rpm)
Optical drive: SuperMulti Blu-Ray Player
Graphics: AMD Radeon HD 6670 (1 GB dedicated) with HDMI, DisplayPort and DVI
I/O ports: 8 USB 2.0, 1 Headphone, 1 LAN, 1 Microphone, 1 Microphone Line-in/Line-out Video connectors: 1 DVI, 1 HDMI, 1 VGA via dongle, 1
DisplayPort Slots: 3 PCI-Express x1, 1 PCI-Express x16, 1 MiniCard Memory card device: 15-in-1 memory card reader
Pointing device: HP Wireless Optical Mouse with USB Dongle
Keyboard: HP Wireless Keyboard
Network: 10/100 Base-T network interface
Wireless: Wireless LAN 802.11 b/g/n
Power Supply: 300 Watts Weight: 11 kg Dimensions: 17.5 x 41.2 x 41.5 cm (w x d x h)
 
Hi, you have a TON of CPU and a low end video card. Any video card that is a noticable upgrade over the HD6670 will need a bigger PSU. Quality PSUs in the 400+ watt range are really cheap (e.g. check out antec earthwatts of various wattage) but are harder to install than a video card. Check out suggested video cards here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107.html

If you wait a few months the new low power hd7770 card will come down in price. The 7770 may make a noticeable improvement w/o needing a new power supply. Check a few benchmarks. HD 7770 cards have a TDP of 80W vs. the 66W TDP of a 6670.

RE SSD. Fun to play with. Not so fun to manage the install of every piece of software so that it installs on the D drive instead of the C drive. But definitely worth trying. I recommend going with a 2.5" SSD form factor vs. a 3.5". The 2.5" will fit in the case, but will not screw into a slot without an adapter. The 3.5 is a direct replace for a standard 3.5" desktop spinning disk. Both use exactly the same signal and power cables. So why do I say go 2.5"? You can reuse the 128GB disk in a laptop later when you move to a bigger SSD in the desktop. Once you go 3.5" you are stuck with servers for the disk. In 3 years a 120GB SSD will have no value in a server. I went with an Intel 320 at 120GB for reliability in my work laptop after failing with a Sandforce based drive. I use raided spinning drives in my server, no real interest in having a small c drive again. And I'm not a fan of the caching software out there.

To install the SSD you create the recovery media from your current refurb, then do a clean install on the SSD. Or if your current C drive is small enough to fit on a 128 GB drive then you can use drive cloning software like 'ACRONIS TRUE IMAGE'. There is a free download of this if one of the drives in your system is a WD or you can download a trial. I liked it enough to buy a copy. WIn7 will recognize and optimize for the SSD. Ignore FUD about moving to an SSD needs a clean install, it didn't on my laptop. WIn7 detected, halted defrags, etc.

Edit: from the Keyboard/mouse this is an HP system. The 300 watt PSU is probably not crappy.
 



Hi, aside: my edit crossed times with your posts and is not directed at you. Originally I thought someone stuck an el-cheapo PSU in his refurb. Once I saw the HP keyboard that was wrong, HP does make a stock i7-2600 system with a 300 watt psu. I agree completely that for any serious gaming, the 300watt PSU goes when new video arrives. The only option I saw keeping the 300w psu was the low power hd7770.